Rewiring a vehicle
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| + | ==Overview== | ||
When completely rewiring a vehicle there are a few things that must be determined beforehand. First, one must decide if a prefabricated harness will be used, or if a custom harness will be made from scratch. In any case, the harness should be assembled into groups and cut within a reasonable distance to the right length, while leaving extra wire to account for routing. | When completely rewiring a vehicle there are a few things that must be determined beforehand. First, one must decide if a prefabricated harness will be used, or if a custom harness will be made from scratch. In any case, the harness should be assembled into groups and cut within a reasonable distance to the right length, while leaving extra wire to account for routing. | ||
==Scratch-built harness== | ==Scratch-built harness== | ||
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If you intend to scratch-build your harness, will need a few things from the garage: | If you intend to scratch-build your harness, will need a few things from the garage: | ||
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*Accurate wiring diagrams, as well as YOUR notes and drawings made for the new system to be installed. | *Accurate wiring diagrams, as well as YOUR notes and drawings made for the new system to be installed. | ||
| − | If soldering: | + | ===If soldering:=== |
*Good soldering station (don't use an undersized or non-controlled unit; it will slow things down) | *Good soldering station (don't use an undersized or non-controlled unit; it will slow things down) | ||
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#Locate all your remote ground areas, such as headlight and tail light buckets, fuel sender/tank grounds, and any local grounding areas. Clean and burnish all paint, dirt, and grease from these areas, install a proper ground, using a star washer, lock washer, tech or sheetmetal screw. | #Locate all your remote ground areas, such as headlight and tail light buckets, fuel sender/tank grounds, and any local grounding areas. Clean and burnish all paint, dirt, and grease from these areas, install a proper ground, using a star washer, lock washer, tech or sheetmetal screw. | ||
| − | + | ===Build and install the ground buss system:=== | |
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#Run a proper-gauge ground cable (4 gauge or better) from the battery to any handy bolt at or near the starter. From that same bolt, get a battery cable at the parts store that has two 3/8" ring terminals on each end and attach it there and to the frame, following the shortest run possible. | #Run a proper-gauge ground cable (4 gauge or better) from the battery to any handy bolt at or near the starter. From that same bolt, get a battery cable at the parts store that has two 3/8" ring terminals on each end and attach it there and to the frame, following the shortest run possible. | ||
#Next, get some 10 gauge wire and ring terminals, and run that from your bolt on the block to the firewall, and another to the alternator bracket or mount bolt. | #Next, get some 10 gauge wire and ring terminals, and run that from your bolt on the block to the firewall, and another to the alternator bracket or mount bolt. | ||
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The first recommendation is a bench supply that has a current adjustment as well as an adjustable voltage control, is fused, and regulated. Not everybody will have one, or be able to afford one. Try borrowing one; it allows you to apply power with the current and voltage controls at zero. You can then adjust the voltage to 14.2, then slowly bring up the current. If you have a short, the AMP meter will shoot up rapidly, as you apply small amounts of current. In this manner you can turn the supply off LONG before ANY damage will occur, and correct the problem, AND if it exceeds the maximum draw for the supply, it will trip the fuse. | The first recommendation is a bench supply that has a current adjustment as well as an adjustable voltage control, is fused, and regulated. Not everybody will have one, or be able to afford one. Try borrowing one; it allows you to apply power with the current and voltage controls at zero. You can then adjust the voltage to 14.2, then slowly bring up the current. If you have a short, the AMP meter will shoot up rapidly, as you apply small amounts of current. In this manner you can turn the supply off LONG before ANY damage will occur, and correct the problem, AND if it exceeds the maximum draw for the supply, it will trip the fuse. | ||
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The second recommendation is a motorcycle battery (not a big Harley batter, a small hold-in-your-hand Honda-type battery). Install a 30 amp fuse link on the positive, and, (if your meter supports it) use your meter in line to monitor current. At this point you will be doing no "high current testing" so you should be good. If not a motorcycle battery, two parallel connected lantern batteries should last long enough to do some primary testing. | The second recommendation is a motorcycle battery (not a big Harley batter, a small hold-in-your-hand Honda-type battery). Install a 30 amp fuse link on the positive, and, (if your meter supports it) use your meter in line to monitor current. At this point you will be doing no "high current testing" so you should be good. If not a motorcycle battery, two parallel connected lantern batteries should last long enough to do some primary testing. | ||
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Whatever system approach you take, test for functionality, correct any errors you may find. | Whatever system approach you take, test for functionality, correct any errors you may find. | ||
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==Miscellaneous== | ==Miscellaneous== | ||
| + | One must realize that many times you will supply power to a circuit (i.e. tail lights), and other times you will supply a ground, as the circuit have power supplied directly to them, and the ground is what is switched. This is very common in courtesy lights that are grounded when the door switch is activated. | ||
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| + | Sometimes you must use existing wires (as when they go from the dash, up the A-pillar, across the top, to a courtesy (interior) light. These are seldom removable if you have the headliner in place. Use a test device to be sure there are no shorts or 'opens' (broken wires). | ||
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| + | If you are changing from 6 to 12 volts (a very good idea), your new wire does not have to be as large as the original, as the current will only be 1/2 the original. This can be important when buying wire in several colors. You can often do much of the wiring using 14ga wire, or even 16ga, but be sure to determine the current draw before committing to a particular gauge of wire. Also, if you use LED lights, the current is minscule! And, they generate no heat to speak of. | ||
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| + | Sometimes a custom harness will be cheaper, especially if you want to use factory color codes. | ||
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Furthermore, it is suggested that a maxi fuse is installed rather than a fusible link. A lot of this is personal preference. However, it is too easy to pop a new maxi back into the socket and avoid the REAL problem -- what took it out? A fuse link MUST be cut, repaired, soldered and heat-shrunk back into place to be repaired. This will motivate you to look into WHY it went out. | Furthermore, it is suggested that a maxi fuse is installed rather than a fusible link. A lot of this is personal preference. However, it is too easy to pop a new maxi back into the socket and avoid the REAL problem -- what took it out? A fuse link MUST be cut, repaired, soldered and heat-shrunk back into place to be repaired. This will motivate you to look into WHY it went out. | ||
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