Editing Steering shaft assemblies from junkyard parts

{{youcanedit}} ==GM FWD steering joints== This one is from a fullsize FWD GM car. This half is attached on the column. [[Image:Fullsize_fwd_GM_steering_joint_half.jpg|frame|none|Steering joint from a FWD GM car.]] This end will accept a double D tube. [[Image:Steering_joint_double_D.jpg|frame|none|GM steering joint.]] This double D tube will accept a double D shaft. [[Image:Steering_joint_double_D_tube.jpg|frame|none|GM double D steering shaft tube. Accepts a double D shaft.]] This is what one looks like before taking it apart. [[Image:Complete GM steering joint assembly.jpg|frame|none|GM steering shaft assembly, before taking it apart.]] ==Chevy Astro Van steering joints== This is half of the Chevy Astro Van steering shaft. [[Image:Astro_van_steering_shaft_half.jpg|frame|none|Half of a Chevy Astro Van steering shaft.]] This is the lower part of a Chevy Astro Van steering joint. The big plus is that it has a built-in vibration damper. Also, a hole can be drilled in the double D shaft, so that a set screw and jam nut can be used to hold everything in place. [[Image:Astro_van_lower_steering_joint.jpg|frame|none|The lower part of a Chevy Astro Van steering joint.]] ==Putting it together== [[Image:Steering_joint_assembly1.jpg|frame|none|Steering joint assembly.]] From left to right: # Steering joint goes to the steering box. This is the lower half of a Chevy Astro Van and has the same splines as the S10 steering box that's being used here. # A piece of double D tubing which connects the 1st steering joint to a piece of double D shaft with a piece of double D tube attached to it, which goes to a steering joint. As you can tell everything has been drilled and tapped for set screws and lock nuts for safety. As you can see, both the double D shaft and tube has to be drilled and tapped for set screws and jam nuts. For safety purposes, this is a must. [[Image:Steering_joint_set_screws_and_jam_nuts.jpg|frame|none|Drilling and tapping for set screws and jam nuts.]] [[Image:Steering_joint_assembly2.jpg|frame|none|Steering joint assembly, shown with steering column.]] From left to right: # The double D shaft and tube, with the tube having a set screw and jam nut. # The outer steering joint, with a lower steering column bearing attached, which goes into the tube that is coming out of the firewall. This helps to hold everything, for added safety. You can't see it in the photo below, but it also has a set screw and nut on the Double D tube. Also, a set screw and jam nut has been added to the opposite side of the locking bolt. # The inner steering joint that attaches to the column on the inside of the cab. # The bottom of the '93 Buick Park Avenue steering column that's being used in this example. ==Intersecting the firewall== The steering shaft going through the firewall is made up of one-half GM FWD steering joints, and one-half Chevy Astro Van steering joints. The piece of pipe coming out of the firewall is an exhaust pipe reducer. Here, the end of a steering column was cut off (with the bearing), and the piece of tubing that holds the bearing was then welded into the exhaust reducer. This is done for extra support, and to help seal the cab from exhaust fumes. [[Image:firewall_steering_joint.jpg|frame|none|Steering joint intersecting a firewall.]] Using a FWD steering column, here's the male part of the steering joint going through an exhaust pipe reducer. [[Image:Steering_joint_through_firewall.jpg|frame|none|Male part of a steering joint intersecting a firewall through an exhaust pipe reducer.]] ==The complete assembly== This shows the complete setup, before welding the piece of pipe that holds the Heim joint to the frame. The reason for the Heim joint is that the steering column bearing used on the outside of the firewall to help support everything isn't a snug fit, and this is one place that overkill is a good idea. [[Image:complete_steering_joint_assembly.jpg|frame|none|The finished steering shaft assembly, without Heim joint welded to frame.]] This is how the Heim joint gets mounted to the frame. Simply take a piece of pipe and mount it to the Heim joint by welding a jam nut to the pipe. The weld can be ground smooth or cleaned up in a lathe. To mount it to the frame, make a basic mount out of angle iron. [[Image:heim_joint_mounting.jpg|frame|none|Mounting the Heim joint to the frame.]] Be sure that you have some space between your Heim joint and any tubing you are using. You need this for body and frame flex, so the shaft can slide within the Heim joint if it needs to. [[Image:Heim_joint_spacing.jpg|frame|none|Heim joint spacing.]] As you can see, everything is bolted together and looks good. It may look like the steering shaft is touching the exhaust manifold but really it's about an inch away from it. The upper joint is almost 2 inches away from the manifolds. [[Image:complete_steering_joint_assembly_with_Heim_joint_mounted.jpg|frame|none|The finished steering shaft assembly.]] The steering is complete with a Heim joint to secure everything, along with the set screws and lock nuts for added safety. ==Improvements to this design== *If the Heim joint is not a designated "square" bearing the longevity will be diminished. *The two Cardan joints are out of phase 90 degrees. It may work but not without unnecessary movement. *The Heim intermediate bearing is redundant. If the top shaft bearing is adequately rigid and the steering box is obviously rigid, the Heim bearing will only serve to add stress to the system. It is impossible to perfectly line up three in-line bearings and this added constraint will add stress. May be minimal but is a negative. The bearing is not needed; intermediate bearings are not called for in a two U-joint drive shaft. ==NHRA rule compatibility== If this assembly is to be used on on a drag race car which will run under NHRA rules, the only acceptable retaining devices are welding or "completely through the shaft" bolts and nuts. No set screws allowed except at the rack pinion. [[Category:Steering]]

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