Editing How to title a hot rod

{{Youcanedit}} ==Summary== The steps necessary for obtaining a valid title for a hot rod vary greatly from country to country, and between states, provinces, and other sub-national entities. Current local legislation, model year of vehicle, vehicle construction, and many other factors also come into play. As the written letter of the law varies from one region to another, so does the way it is handled on a day-to-day basis. Thus, an understanding of the local legal code must be coupled with knowledge of the experiences of local hotrodders. To fully answer this question, we'll need to include the relevant legal code from each state, province, region, or country, as well as information from local hotrodders on the vagaries of enforcement at the local level. Bear in mind that, ultimately, individual hotrodders will have to deal with their local DMV, which abides by the written regulations, rather than what's available on the internet. One thing to keep in mind when trying to register and title streetrods is......and this is probably the most important thing of all......Attitude is everything......keep a good attitude and be polite.......if things are not going your way don't get pushy, it will only work against you. Keep in mind the folks at the DMV deal with some real nuts and they could be in a bad mood when you get there....just play it cool....diplomacy and tact goes a long way. It would be wise to consider that some states qualify that if a vehicle is modified beyond a point from the original car then it is no longer the original car. If you, for example, you register your 1930 Model A that was basically a body placed on a whole new modern chassis with the original 1930 title you are violating the laws on titling. Then you register this vehicle with this title, the car is now illegally registered. The insurance you get will require the car to be legally registered and now they have an out for not having to pay off if you have an accident. ===Where can information be obtained?=== Here's a collection of ideas on where information on properly titling hot rods can potentially be obtained: *Local government and law enforcement agencies **police, Department of Motor Vehicles *Websites of local Departments of Motor Vehicles, Departments of Transportation, or their regional equivalents. *Local citizens or automotive clubs *Businesses that obtain titles for people ===You can edit the list below=== Below is a listing of 50 US states, as well as several additional countries. To add information about titling a hot rod, simply click the "edit" link to the right-hand side of any state or country name. ==50 US States== ===Alabama=== If you custom-build a car in Alabama, from a kit or from parts, you must first apply for a vehicle identification number (VIN) before applying for a title. You may apply for a VIN using Form MVT 26-3, which is available at your local tag office. Return the completed form to the tag office with the documents listed below. The Department of Public Safety will then issue a VIN plate. The department will contact you to bring the assembled vehicle to a specified inspection station. After the inspection, if everything is satisfactory, you and the DPS will need to complete more forms. When they are approved, you will be issued a certificate of title with the legend "ASSEMBLED." Cars Built from Kits For 1975 or newer kits that are assembled with a chassis built before 1974, you will need to provide the following documents: * A certified manufacturer's certificate of origin for a new kit assigned to you. * A certified copy of the most recent registration receipt in the applicant's name for the chassis, or a notarized bill of sale to the applicant, specifying the purchase of the chassis. * A bill of sale for each major component if purchased separately. The bill of sale needs to have the serial number and trade name of the part purchased. * A notarized affidavit from the person who assembled the car stating what was done to assemble it, and certifying that it is now in operable condition. For 1975 kits assembled with 1975 or newer parts, you will need the following: * Certified manufacturer's certificate of origin for a new kit assigned to you. * The outstanding certificate of title in your name or assigned to you for the chassis, or the bill of sale to you for the chassis. * The bill of sale for any major components purchased separately. The bill of sale needs to state the serial number and trade name of the part purchased. * A notarized affidavit from the person who assembled the car stating what was done to assemble it, and certifying that it is now in operable condition. Cars Built from Parts For cars built with a 1974 or earlier chassis, you will need the following documents: * A certified copy of the most recent registration receipt in your name for the vehicle from which the chassis was removed, or a bill of sale for the chassis. The bill of sale needs to include the VIN number of the vehicle from which the chassis was removed. * A bill of sale for any major components purchased separately, containing the serial number and trade name of the part. * A notarized affidavit from the person assembling the car stating what was done to assemble the vehicle, and certifying that it is now in operable condition. For cars built with a 1975 or newer chassis, provide the following: * Outstanding certificate of title in your name for the vehicle from which the chassis was removed, or a notarized bill of sale in your name. This bill of sale needs to contain the VIN number of the vehicle from which the chassis was removed. * A notarized bill of sale for each major component purchased, including the serial number and trade name of each part. * A notarized affidavit from the person who assembled the car stating what was done to assemble it, and certifying that it is now in operable condition. Major Components Remember to keep all your receipts while building your car. You'll need to provide the bill of sale showing the serial number and trade name of the part for the following components: * Motor or engine * Transmission or transaxle * Trunk floor pan or rear section and roof * Frame or any portion thereof * Cowl, firewall, or any portion thereof * Roof assembly * Cab * Cargo compartment floor panel or passenger compartment floor pan * Front fork * Crankcase source [[www.dmv.org]] ===Alaska=== There's a new demand for customized, altered, and "repurposed" cars among motor vehicle enthusiasts. People with mechanical abilities are making vehicles for themselves and others using car kits, components from otherwise wrecked cars, or simply writing a plan and building the car from the ground up. Alaska has certain requirements for the registration and titling of custom, rebuilt or altered vehicles. The Alaska DMV defines a custom built vehicle as: * "...a vehicle that has been materially altered from the original constructed vehicle by the removal, addition, or substitution of essential parts. Essential parts are considered to be the chassis, body, and engine." Keep in mind that replacing an engine, transmission, or any other major component does not qualify a vehicle as a custom, so you may register and title it in the usual way. Registering VS. Titling Registering and titling a motor vehicle are two different things: * Registering a vehicle is, in effect, "signing it up" with the DMV. When you register, your license plates are issued and the vehicle is made legal for driving in Alaska. When you renew a registration, you are paying to ongoing fees each year that allow you legally drive the vehicle. Registration is then an ongoing, annual responsibility. Also, any I/M inspections are part of the registration process. * Titling a vehicle is the process of creating legal proof of your ownership of the vehicle. Titling is usually only one time, unless you change the legal status of the vehicle by adding an owner to the title (in case of marriage, etc) or removing an owner from the title of a vehicle. Titles can also change when a loan is paid and a lien is release; and, of course, when a vehicle is bought or sold. In most cases, you have 30 days from the date of purchase to change the title on a vehicle in Alaska. Registering a Custom Vehicle The secret to an easy registration and titling process for your custom or homebuilt vehicle is all in the paperwork. Keep every paper related to the original vehicle or vehicles, purchases of any large components, salvage certificates, junkyard receipts or any other documentation that can prove the origin of any major components. Here are the items and the steps you will need to complete in order to register and title your custom or homebuilt vehicle: * The title for the original vehicle from which the chassis of the custom was taken must be surrendered to the DMV when the custom vehicle is registered, unless it has already been surrendered. * Any and all receipts, bills of sale invoices for the major components or parts used in the building of the custom must be presented to the DMV. * The vehicle will need to be inspected by either the DMV or by a law enforcement officer or a representative of the Division of Motor Vehicles. * A lien release if there is a lien recorded against the vehicle. * A completed and notarized Reconstructed Vehicle Affidavit, completed by the person who did the actual reconstruction of the vehicle; submit that with the other paperwork outlined above. Vehicle Inspections Vehicle inspections are conducted in order to verify the vehicle identification number, and to confirm the identity of the vehicle; this helps stop "chop shop" operations and can assist in the recovery of stolen vehicles. source [[www.dmv.org]] ===Arizona=== If one has the VIN, and a Manufacturers Certificate of Origin, the only thing needed is to pay car value sales tax. And the registration cost, to transfer the title from the manufacturer to the owner. On my kit 23 T Bucket it cost approx. $1400.00. And took about two hours at the MVD, with only a verification of the vehicle. If you are having problems getting your hotrod titled you can try a third party DMV, usually they can do it with less hassle. The state-run DMV's don't want the headache. I have had good luck with Desert Auto Title on Cave Creek and the 101 in North Phoenix. (602) 485-8900, ask for Brandi or Shelly. ===Arkansas=== There are three methods available to title a hot rod in Arkansas. Which one to use depends upon the vehicle, it's title history and personal preference. 1. Bonded Title In this method the owner must first get a form signed by a licensed police officer verifying the VIN of the vehicle to be titled. The owner must then file with the state for a bonded title.When the state returns a “Letter of approval” and assigns a value to the vehicle the owner must then post a bond with a corporate surety bond, certificate of deposit with assignment, or an irrevocable letter of credit filed with the Commissioner within thirty (30) days from its effective date, '''for an amount equal to one and one half (1 ½) times the value of the vehicle as determined by the Commissioner'''. The bond,certificate of deposit and assignment or letter of credit shall be delivered to the Commissioner, and accompanied by: (a) an application for registration and issuance of a certificate of title to the vehicle signed by the vehicle owner; (b) a letter from the Commissioner granting authorization to apply for a bonded title; (c) any additional documentation otherwise necessary to comply with specific statutory requirements for registration and issuance of a certificate of title to a vehicle (the form from the police officer being part of this) (d) the payment of all requisite fees and taxes for the registration and issuance of a certificate of title to a vehicle. A bonded title will then be issued. 2. Petition to quiet title. Citizens of certain counties can petition the county court to have a judge "quiet the title". This also requires the the owner to first get a form signed by a licensed police officer verifying the VIN of the vehicle to be titled. Afterward a petition is filed for quiet title with the court. In Boone County this petition costs $150. It requires the bill of sale and the appropriate forms. 3. Manufactured vehicle Under Arkansas DMV regulations a vehicle can be assembled from a body or frame of a previously registered vehicle and the body or frame of another provided that you have one vehicle registered and have appropriate documentation (registration or bill of sale) for the other. The resulting vehicle is considered a "manufactured vehicle" and is registered like any other vehicle. Recently Arkansas has enacted a Street Rod/Custom Vehicle Bill modeled after the SEMA Model. "The new law allows for the use of non-original materials, provides for special license plates and permits the use of blue dot taillights. In addition, the measure exempts street rods and customs from a range of standard equipment requirements and emissions controls (only that equipment required in the model year that the vehicle resembles). Vehicles titled and registered as street rods and custom vehicles may only be used for occasional transportation, exhibitions, club activities, parades, tours, etc. and not for general daily transportation" (SEMA SAN - SEMA Action Network Mar. 31, 2007) Further Documentation: Agency 006.05 REGULATION 1993-3 BONDED TITLE REGULATION Pursuant to authority given the Commissioner of Revenues by subsection (b) of section 20 of Act 142 of 1949 (Ark. Code Ann. §27-14-403 (b)), after the effective date of this regulation, corporate surety bonds, certificates of deposit with assignment and irrevocable letters of credit which meet the requirements of this regulation may be accepted under those circumstances where a bond is authorized under the provisions of subsection (c) of section 1 of Act 1013 of 1993 [Ark. Code Ann. §§27-14-409 (c)]. (1) ˜˜Definitions: (A) “Bond” means any corporate surety bond, certificate of deposit or irrevocable letter of credit approved by the Commissioner and given for the purpose of indemnifying any prior owner or lien holder and any subsequent purchaser of a vehicle, or person acquiring any security interest in it, and their respective successors in interest, heirs, or assigns, against any expense, loss or damage, including reasonable attorney’s fees, by reason of the issuance of the certificate of title to the vehicle or on account of any defect in or undisclosed security interest upon the right, title and interest of the applicant in and to the vehicle. (B) “Bonded Title” means a certificate of title to a vehicle issued upon the condition that a bond is filed with the Commissioner of Revenues pursuant to Act 1013 of 1993 [Ark. Cod Ann. §§27-14-409 (c)]. (C) “Insurer” means any person with a valid certificate of authority, issued by the Arkansas Insurance Commissioner which certificate grants the authority to become surety on contacts in the State of Arkansas, or any other guarantor approved by the Commissioner of Revenues. (D) “Vehicle” means any vehicle of a type required to be registered and titled in Arkansas, and which is in the possession of and legally controlled by the applicant for bonded title. This definition shall specifically exclude the following: (i) Vehicles issued a junking certificate, or similarly branded certificate of title, as referenced in subsection (c) of section 2. of Act 614 of 1993; (ii) Vehicles for which a person holds a storage or mechanic’s lien under the provisions of Act 1000 of 1993, [Arkansas Code Annotated §27- 50-1201, et. seq.], or Arkansas Code Annotated §18-45-201, et. seq.; (iii) Stolen vehicles; (iv) Vehicles involved in ownership litigation. (E) “Statement of fact” means a form prescribed by the Commissioner, to be completed by the applicant for bonded title and filed with the Commissioner prior to the filing of a bond, so that a determination can be made as to the eligibility of the applicant for issuance of a bonded title. (F) “Letter of approval” means a letter issued by the Commissioner to the applicant for bonded title granting approval to file a bond and apply for registration and issuance of a bonded title, and establishing the amount of the bond to be filed. (2) After the effective date of this regulation, any bond filed pursuant to Act 1013 of 1993 [Ark. Code Ann. §§27-14-409 (c)] must guarantee payment, for a period of three (3) years from its effective date, to any prior owner or lienholder and any subsequent purchaser of a vehicle, or person acquiring any security interest in it, and their respective successors in interest, heirs or assigns against any expense, loss or damage, including reasonable attorney’s fees, by reason of the issuance of the certificate of title to the vehicle or an account of any defect in or undisclosed security interest upon the right, title and interest of the applicant in and to the vehicle. (3) A bond filed pursuant to Act 1013 of 1993 [Ark. Code Ann. §§27-14-409 (c)] shall not be accepted unless it is a corporate surety bond, certificate of deposit with assignment, or an irrevocable letter of credit filed with the Commissioner within thirty (30) days from its effective date, for an amount equal to one and one half (1 ½) times the value of the vehicle as determined by the Commissioner, and meets the following requirements: (A) “Corporate Surety Bond”: A corporate surety bond shall: (i) be on forms approved by the Commissioner; (ii) be issued by an insurer; (iii) be irrevocable for a period three (3) years; (iv) be signed by the vehicle owner (applicant for bonded title to a vehicle), and payable to the State of Arkansas upon presentation of a judgment issued by a court of competent jurisdiction as a result of the issuance of a bonded title; (v) be signed by the insurer or its licensed agent or broker with power of attorney to act on behalf of the insurer and countersigned as otherwise required by law; (vi) be delivered to the Commissioner, and accompanied by: (a) an application for registration and issuance of a certificate of title to the vehicle signed by the vehicle owner; (b) a letter from the Commissioner granting authorization to apply for a bonded title; (c) the original power of attorney of the person executing on the behalf on the insurer, if applicable; (d) any additional documentation otherwise necessary to comply with specific statutory requirements for registration and issuance of a certificate of title to a vehicle; (e) the payment of all requisite fees and taxes for the registration and issuance of a certificate of title to a vehicle. (B) “Certificate of Deposit with Assignment”: (i) The certificate of deposit and assignment shall both be on forms approved by the Commissioner. (ii) The certificate of deposit shall: (a) be signed by the assignor; (b) be issued by a bank or savings and loan: (c) be irrevocable for a period three (3) years. (iii) The assignment shall: (a) be signed by the assignor; (b) be acknowledged by the financial institution; (c) contain an irrevocable appointment of the Commissioner which allows him to endorse the certificate of deposit and apply the proceeds to any and all valid claims against the bonded title, as determined by a court of competent jurisdiction; (d) provide the assignment of the certificate of deposit is to be held by the Commissioner for a period of three (3) years from the date of delivery to the Commissioner. (iv) The certificate of deposit and assignment shall be delivered to the Commissioner, and accompanied by: (a) an application for registration and issuance of a certificate of title to the vehicle signed by the vehicle owner; (b) a letter from the Commissioner granting authorization to apply for a bonded title; (c) any additional documentation otherwise necessary to comply with specific statutory requirements for registration and issuance of a certificate of title to a vehicle; (d) the payment of all requisite fees and taxes for the registration and issuance of a certificate of title to a vehicle. (C) “Irrevocable Letter of Credit”: An irrevocable letter of credit shall: (i) be in a form as prescribed by the Commissioner; (ii) be issued by a bank or savings and loan; (iii) be an irrevocable letter of credit; (iv) be titled or conspicuously state that it is an irrevocable letter of credit; (v) state that it may be drawn against to satisfy any judgment issued by a court of competent jurisdiction as a result of the issuance of a bonded title; (vi) state that any draft drawn by the Commissioner against the letter of credit is payable upon presentation of a judgment issued by a court of competent jurisdiction as a result of the issuance of a bonded title; (vii) be irrevocable for a period of three (3) years from the date it is delivered to the Commissioner; (viii) be delivered to the Commissioner, and accompanied by:5 (a) an application for registration and issuance of a certificate of title to the vehicle signed by the vehicle owner; (b) a letter from the Commissioner granting authorization to apply for a bonded title; (c) any additional documentation otherwise necessary to comply with specific statutory requirements for registration and issuance of a certificate of title to a vehicle; (d) the payment of all requisite fees and taxes for the registration and issuance of a certificate of title to a vehicle. (4) Procedure for applying for issuance of a bonded title: When a bonded title transaction is received by a State Revenue Office, the transaction should be examined to ensure that: (A) The corporate surety bond, certificate of deposit with assignment or irrevocable letter of credit has been issued for an amount equal to or exceeding the amount determined by the Department. (B) The bond is effective for a period of three (3) years from the date of issuance. (C) The application for bonded title has been made within 30 days from the effective date of the bond. (D) An application presented more than 30 days after the effective date of the bond shall not be accepted. (E) The vehicle description (year, make, model, vehicle identification number, body style) reflected on the application matches the vehicle description reflected on the bond. Executed this 23 rd day of July, 1993. Jim Pledger, Director Arkansas Department of Finance and Administration Tim Leathers Commissioner of Revenues Arkansas Department of Finance and Administration ( * [http://www.arkansas.gov/dfa/motor_vehicle/forms/10-345.pdf Bonded Title Info] ===California=== I have an old Chevy and couldn't find the numbers anywhere. To avoid all the problems that come with registration, I simply stamped the number off of my engine on the frame.... Called a policeman I knew and had him verify the number. Took it to DMV and the registration went right through. You have to be very careful with the titling of an unregistered car in California. If you make the mistake of putting a late model engine in an older car and make the mistake of telling the DMV that you have a '85 engine in your '37 Chevy/Ford, etc, they will make you put all of the smog equipment for a '85 model car on your old car. I have had two friends get caught in this trap, one guy told the examiner that the engine was a '95 Chevy...OOP's, he had to put everything that was required for a '95 Chevy on his '37 Ford. The best thing to do is get the legal paper work straightened out before you ever do any work on the car, then file a non-op on the car, when you get it running you send in proof of insurance and the renewal fees. No questions, no inspections, no hassle....blusdn Also you can find a "vehicle verifier", usually at a dealership. Ask for the title/licensing desk, or talk to the used car manager. He will usually help if you grease the skids ($100 bill). All he needs is the paperwork. Ask the title desk what they need. Or if you wish to get technical get a copy of the California vehicle code. I did, read it and was ARMED. It should be noted however that submitting a fraudulent document such as a false verification in California is a FELONY and prosecutions do occur when the DMV Investigations branch discovers these. It happens more often than you might think - just because it did not happen to someones 'buddy' does not mean it will not happen to you. This is especially true in the case of kit Shelbys and similar vehicles - They have caught on to that. Also if DMV decides it wants to it can ask that the owner obtain a CHP verification and be issued a 'blue tag' verification number - and those guys are not easily fooled - and for goodness sake do not try and slip them a $100, it will certainly end you in jail - I am one of them and people have tried and they have ended up on the wrong side of the bars!! I would suggest going to AAA to handle your paperwork, as they're on your side and want to make this process as easy as possible. Should there be any snags, as there were in my case, you're hopefully not in the state system enough to have to go to the CHP to verify things. I'd avoid them like the plague. At the very least its going to be a hassle. There are many title registration services in the Los Angeles area, I'd strongly suggest using one of them. It may be the best $150 or so that you spend, as in my case I never had to set foot in the dmv office and got everything taken care of within 2 weeks. ===Colorado=== *[http://www.state.co.us/gov_dir/leg_dir/olls/sl2003a/sl_31.pdf Bonded Title Info] *[http://www.dmv.org/co-colorado/custom-built-cars.php Custom Built Car Registration] ===Connecticut=== Building your own hot rod or chopper? Remember, if you want to ever drive your custom-built vehicle, you're going to need to register it. Connecticut allows registration of custom-built/composite vehicles, but the vehicle must first pass a special inspection process. Before You Start Building If you've used parts from other vehicles to build your own, you need to make sure you have title certificates for each vehicle used for component parts, as well as receipts for all parts used. If any parts are from used vehicles, you need to include VIN numbers on each receipt. To get a registration, you're going to have to submit your vehicle to a detailed inspection process, during which time you are required to show all receipts and titles. No receipts means no inspection and no registration. Ready for Inspection When you're ready for the vehicle to be registered and inspected, you need to do the following: * Use the Department of Motor Vehicles telephone center to make an appointment for a composite vehicle inspection. Composite inspections are done at the Wethersfield office only by appointment. * Transfer the vehicle by flat-bed truck or trailer to the inspection station. You cannot drive or tow the vehicle. None of its wheels can touch the ground until it passes inspection and you are granted a registration. * Complete an application for composite inspection and bring it to the DMV inspection station, along with two photos of the vehicle and all supporting documents―including titles and receipts for all major parts. The inspection fee is $88 and the VIN costs another $50. * If your vehicle passes inspection, the DMV inspector will assign a VIN to your vehicle, which will allow you to begin the standard process of applying for a registration and title. If you fail, you can ask for a re-inspection without going through the appointment process. You're also going to have to submit your vehicle for an emissions exam. Some vehicles are exempt from emissions testing. Until January 2007, any composite vehicle that is not exempt must pass standard state emission testing. After new rules go into effect in January 2007, composite vehicles will have to meet specific standards. Exempt Vehicles There are some exemptions to the program, particularly newer models, many older vehicles, motorcycles and other specialized vehicles: * New vehicles that are four or less model years old (as of 1/1/07 model years, 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008). * A motor vehicle twenty five-years old or older, (as of 1/1/07, model years 1983 and older). * Vehicles with a gross vehicle weight rating of more than 10,000 pounds, such as certain heavy-duty trucks or recreational vehicles * Composite Vehicles ( Effective July 1, 2007) * Electric-powered vehicles * Bicycles with motors attached * Motorcycles * Certain vehicles registered but not designed primarily for highway use * Farm vehicles * Class-1 School Buses * Vehicles with Dealer, Repairer, or Transporter Plates while official tests are obtained ===Delaware=== ===Florida=== Registering and titling your custom-built car doesn't have to be as complicated as the car construction itself. In fact, it's much like registering any other car, with just a few extra steps along the way. These steps apply to vehicles constructed from body kits that are attached to existing car frames, new frames provided by manufacturers, or homemade frames. Submit all forms and documentation to your local county tax collector's office to register and title your custom car. Application for Kit Mounted on a Car Frame Previously Titled in Florida You'll need: * Florida title from original car frame, which must be in your name or at least with a completed application to transfer the title into your name. * The body kit MCO, assigned to you. A bill of sale is acceptable if the manufacturer didn't issue an MCO. * Completed Application for Certificate of Title. * Notarized affidavit, stating that the vehicle is able to be operated on public roads. The statement must also list the repairs made to the vehicle. * Bills of sale or receipts for all parts and equipment that weren't part of the original frame or the body kit. All documents must include name, address, and signature of seller. Components may include front end, rear end, doors, engine, transmission, frame, cowl assembly, and airbag, or any parts of those elements. * Applicable sales tax (or fill out the statement on sales tax on the application form). * Florida license plate number for the vehicle, or an affidavit of non-use. * Applicable title fees. (Use the License Plate Rate Chart to calculate all specific charges. Application for Kit Mounted on a Car Frame Previously Titled in Another State You'll need: * Out-of-state title or proof of ownership from the original car frame, which must be in your name or at least with a completed application to transfer the ownership into your name. * All documentation listed in items two through eight, above. Application for Kit Mounted on a Homemade Frame You'll need: * Notarized affidavit detailing the frame's construction. (This can be submitted with the statement of repairs, as listed in item four, above.) * All documentation listed in items two through eight, above. Application for Kit Mounted on a New Frame Provided by the Manufacturer You'll need: * Manufacturer's bill of sale or invoice proving that the frame was included with the body kit. * All documentation listed in items 2 through 8, above. Title Language When you receive your title and registration, you'll notice a few things that will be noted differently than for your regular motor vehicle: * The year (YR) of the vehicle will be the year the car was built. * The make will be the make shown on the Manufacturer's Certificate of Origin (MCO) or the manufacturer's bill of sale. * The identification number will be the VIN given on the MCO or bill of sale. * The words "kit car" will be typed on the title and will carry that brand as long as the vehicle exists. * All kit cars are titled as used vehicles.

| Editing help (opens in new window)