Editing Bulletproof cooling system

{{youcanedit}} [[Image:Cooling_system.gif‎ ]] '''TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM''' == '''PREAMBLE''' == == WHAT CAUSES OVERHEATING? == Overheating can be caused by anything that decreases the cooling system’s ability to absorb, transport and dissipate heat. A low coolant level, loss of coolant (through internal or external leaks), poor heat conductivity inside the engine because of accumulated deposits in the water jackets, a defective thermostat that doesn’t open, poor airflow through the radiator, a slipping fan clutch, an inoperative electric cooling fan, a collapsed lower radiator hose, an eroded or loose water pump impeller, a water pump that is driven too slowly, or even a defective radiator cap. One of nature’s basic laws says that heat always flows from an area of higher temperature to an area of lesser temperature, never the other way around. The only way to cool hot metal, therefore, is to keep it in constant contact with a cooler liquid. The only way to do that is to keep the coolant in constant circulation. As soon as circulation stops, either because of a problem with the water pump, thermostat, or loss of coolant, temperatures begin to rise and the engine starts to overheat. The coolant also has to get rid of the heat it soaks up while passing through the block and head(s). So the radiator must be capable of doing its job, which requires the help of an efficient cooling fan at slow speeds. Finally, the thermostat must be doing its job to keep the engine’s average temperature within the normal range. If the thermostat fails to open, it will effectively block the flow of coolant and the engine will overheat. An important thing to remember when dealing with engine cooling systems: The actual temperature of the coolant is not the most important number, but we use it as an indicator of its performance. The cooling system's job is to transport heat from the engine to the atmosphere. It picks up X amount of heat in the engine (raising its temperature) and deposits Y amount of heat into the atmosphere. If X (the amount picked up) equals Y (the amount given up) then the average temperature stays the same. An example of that is when you're driving and the temperature gauge stays at the same place. If the temperature of the coolant is rising, that indicates its getting more heat than it can dissipate. We usually use the term "overheating" to describe an cooling system that is getting more heat than it can effectively dissipate. The result is rising temperatures to the point of boiling coolant. Boiling coolant means that the surfaces of the water jacket now have a significant percentage of their area covered with steam, not coolant. Steam can't absorb heat as well as coolant and this sets up an exponential problem; more heat, more steam, less contact with coolant, which leads to much higher heat and more boiling. But, back to the X = Y demonstration: As long as X and Y are in balance, the actual temperature of the coolant has little to do with how much heat it is effectively transporting. The effectiveness of a cooling system is with how well its components transport and shed heat, not the actual temperature of the water. It has become commonly assumed, therefore, that cooler is better in the quest to prevent overheating. That is not entirely true. Cooler temps give you more of a buffer; that is to say, it will take more time to reach boiling. But, as shown above, a properly operating and adequate cooling system can operate at almost any temperature under its boiling point. However, if a cooling system is getting more heat than it can dissipate, it will eventually overheat regardless of where the thermostat opens. It is for this reason that using a cooler thermostat doesn't effectively help overheating issues. The temperature of the coolant is a function of heat-in minus heat-out. Overheating occurs when the heat-in is greater than the heat-out. ==Bulletproof cooling system tips== *The most common problems radiators fall prey to are clogging (both internal and external) and leaks. Dirt, bugs and debris can block airflow through the core and reduce the radiator’s ability to dissipate heat. Internal corrosion and an accumulation of deposits can likewise inhibit coolant circulation and reduce cooling. “Back flushing” the radiator and cooling system when changing coolant is highly recommended to dislodge accumulated deposits and to flush the remaining coolant from the engine block. Back flushing is running water back through the radiator and engine in the opposite direction to which it normally flows. After the coolant has been drained from the radiator, a T-fitting is installed in the heater inlet hose. The fitting is then connected to a pressurized water hose or power flusher. The water is turned on and the system is reverse flushed. The flushing should be continued until only clean water emerges from the radiator. Cleaning chemicals may also be used to remove accumulated deposits from the system. *Use a radiator of at least the same square inch area that was used originally to cool the engine from the factory. '''The engine''', not the car. * Use a "high bypass" thermostat rather than a "standard" one. The standard thermostat flows very little coolant even when temperature is above it's open mode and full flow is active. Look at a standard and high bypass and see the huge difference in volume of flow. The high bypass may flow as much coolant when closed as the standard does when open. In my experience this one factor has more influence on cooling than all others combined. *Use a radiator with the same or more radiator cores that were used originally to cool the engine from the factory. Two cores will cool most motors, although in special towing cases or applications where the motor is put under considerable load for periods of time, a three core unit may be a better choice. ''(confirm and expand)''. Once again, '''the engine''', not the car. Its important to note that additional rows of radiators don't add a proportional amount of cooling efficiency. For instance, going from a 2-row to a 3-row doesn't increase the cooling efficiency by 50% because the subsequent rows are receiving warm air from the rows in front. Adding radiator frontal area IS proportional, but since the radiator size is mostly fixed because of what fits in the car, additional rows are often the only choice. *In most cases, use a radiator of copper and brass construction ''(confirm and expand)''. While pure copper has far superior thermal conductivity to aluminum, the aluminum will contain pressure in more extreme shapes. What this means is that an aluminum radiator can be made with flatter tubes. That means for the same given flow area, an aluminum radiator's tubes have greater surface area contact with the coolant. The metals copper and brass are more thermally conductive, but the greater freedom of design that is possible with aluminum makes them a tiny fraction more efficient despite the alloy's poorer conductivity. *Oftentimes, the cheapest and most bulletproof way is to use the largest radiator that will fit, along with the shroud that was designed for the radiator from the factory and the designated steel fan and viscous drive assembly for same. ''(confirm and expand)'' *Block all air passageways where the air could get '''around''' instead of '''through''' the radiator core at the front of the vehicle. *Use a full shroud with the radiator positioned so that the fan blades are half-in and half-out of the shroud hole ''(confirm and expand)'', and no more than 1" of clearance between the shroud and the fan blade tips. (Just enough to prevent intervention when the motor rocks on its rubber mounts). *Fan recommendations: OEM 18 inch, 7-blade steel fan with 2" to 2 3/4" pitch. Pitch of a fan can be measured by laying the fan down on a flat surface and measuring from the flat surface to the edge of the fan blade. Fans that are relatively flat such as a flex fan won't move enough air at idle and low engine rpm's to do the job properly. *Thermostatically controlled fan clutch. *Water pump and crankshaft pulleys sized according to what was on the engine from the factory. On a street motor, shoot for 1.2 to 1.3 times crank speed for pump pulley speed. This is usually true until you get to 3.55 gears and numerically higher, then 1 to 1 works better. Most all 1960's muscle cars are 1 to 1. Pump speeds over 4200 sustained cause cavitation. Nascar is a good example with roughly 3.5" crank pulleys and 8" waterpump pulleys for their 9200 rpm engines''(confirm)'' *On a carbureted motor, most of us use a 180 degree thermostat, although a little hotter thermostat (190-195) may make the motor more responsive and add a little fuel mileage. It may also help to burn off some of the by-products of operation, such as moisture and acids which form and get into the oil. Motors using EFI induction should be operated at the temperature specified by the factory for that particular motor to prevent false input to the computer and consequent problems. ''(confirm and expand)'' The sensor pill goes toward the motor. *Use a spiral-wound spring in the bottom radiator hose, to prevent collapse of the hose. *Use the proper pressure cap for the radiator being used. *Large engines can be perfectly cooled at very hot desert temperatures, without the use of electric fans, aluminum radiators, or various gimmicky cooling devices. Just use common sense and follow the suggestions in this tutorial. ''(confirm and expand)'' *Ensure that there are sufficient openings in the engine compartment to allow the exit of all the air drawn into the compartment. This might require the removal or surgery of inner fender panels or using spacers to raise the hood of the car up an inch or two at the back. *Maintain the proper coolant/water mix to prevent freezing up in winter. Water transfers heat better than coolant, but some coolant must be used to prevent freezing. Using a 50/50 mix of coolant/water is a necessity for motors using aluminum parts. Plain water will turn aluminum into oatmeal. *Before installing the water pump, grasp the impeller with one hand and the drive hub with the other and twist to make sure the impeller is tight on the drive shaft. Not finding this problem beforehand can make you crazy. *Although it may not be necessary, the concept of a "water pump conversion disc" is intriguing. Flow Kooler originally marketed flat aluminum discs to rivet to the backside of the stamped steel impeller in the pump. With an iron impeller, a steel disc could be welded or brazed onto the impeller. The disc wouldn't be that difficult to fab up yourself. Space the water pump backing plate back farther with a couple of gaskets to prevent interference of the rivet heads on the backing plate if riveting a disc to a stamped steel impeller. More info: [http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11774 brazing cast iron], [http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=BRA%2D4375%2D07&autoview=sku Flow Kooler water pump conversion discs]. This disc should make an appreciable difference in the flow of water at engine speeds under 3,000 RPMs. 400 small block chevys are a special case. The cylinder barrels are siamesed in the block so that no cooling water can pass between them. This creates hot spots or "steam pockets" in the block at lower engine rpm's which conceivably could create a spot at the top of the cylinder that is hot enough to create pre-ignition. As rpm's increase, there is enough turbulence in the cooling system to wash these steam pockets away. GM engineers cured the problem by drilling holes into the cylinder heads to relieve this pressure and allow water to flow from the block up into the heads. That's all fine and dandy if you are using a 400 head on a 400 block because the heads are drilled. But, when using any other kind of head on the 400 block, there are usually no steam holes in the heads unless you are buying new heads and specify to the manufacturer of the heads that you want steam holes drilled into them before delivery. Alternately, if you already have the heads, you can have your machine shop drill the holes or you can drill them yourself if you have proper equipment. http://www.gregsengine.com/350to400.htm ==Swapping a core support and matching radiator into a recipient vehicle== In doing this swap, you will have to re-install the recipient vehicle's hood latch onto the donor core support in the proper location. Make up a fixture beforehand from scrap metal that bolts to the fender bolts or some other location that will be the same after the core support swap, and will show the proper location for the latch. This is a must-do when doing a frame or clip swap. ==Recommended donor vehicles== *'76 Cadillac Fleetwood or Eldorado. For example: [http://www.radiatorexpress.com/product.asp?part=1976+CADILLAC+FLEETWOOD++%2D+8%2E2+liter+V8+RADIATOR+Name+Brand+Replacement&part_id=1357&aaia_id=1026582 1976 Cadillac Fleetwood 8.2 liter V8 radiator]. *Mid-70's Chevrolet truck with a 454. For example: [http://www.radiatorexpress.com/product.asp?part=1975+CHEVROLET+C20+PICKUP++%2D+7%2E4+liter+V8+RADIATOR+Name+Brand+4%2DRow+Capacity+Upgrade+%2828%22x19%22%29&part_id=39583&aaia_id=1031971 1975 Chevrolet C20 Pickup - 7.4 liter V8 radiator, 4-row capacity upgrade] (and, same radiator in aluminum: [http://www.radiatorexpress.com/product.asp?part=1975+CHEVROLET+C20+PICKUP++%2D+7%2E4+liter+V8+RADIATOR+All+Aluminum+4%2DRow+Capacity+%2828%22X19%22%29&part_id=218171&aaia_id=1031971 here]). ==Cadillac radiator swap== Any of the Fleetwoods or Eldorados from '70 to '76 with a 472 or 500 will work, but the '76's used the 500 inch motor for sure. Call around and find a boneyard that still has the fan, shroud and core support. You'll be using a new radiator and viscous drive fan clutch to bulletproof your installation. Make yourself a memo of the exact year and model the pieces came from so you can match up the parts. You may or may not have to alter the fan clutch hub where it bolts to the water pump/pulley. Usually, the holes are slotted so you can make it work. If not, some minor surgery on the hub with a rat-tail file will do the trick. With the motor in the vehicle and finalized for position, bolt the fan clutch and fan to the water pump. Mount the Cadillac radiator and shroud to the Cadillac core support. The Cadillac core support will probably be longer side to side than the stock one in the recipient vehicle. Retain the outer pieces of the recipient vehicle support where it bolts into the body and cut the middle part of the recipient vehicle support out with a reciprocating saw, leaving a few inches on each side. Then, measure the opening between the two stubs that are still bolted to the recipient vehicle and cut the Cadillac support to fit into this opening. It's better to leave a little more sheet metal on the Cadillac support until you determine the correct position of the fan where it engages the shroud opening. Then, position the Cadillac support with radiator and shroud attached up to the fan, equalizing the distance between the fan blade tips and the inner circumference of the shroud all around. Move the shroud around the fan until you have the fan blades halfway in and halfway out of the shroud opening. Normally, you'll have to tilt the top of the radiator/shroud back a little at the top to match the fan angle because the motor sits in the recipient vehicle on a rearward tilt. If you need a little more front to rear clearance for mounting the support, you can position the fan blades 2/3 in and 1/3 out of the shroud opening. A little further in is OK, as long as the fan clutch is at least 1" from the radiator core material. A little further out is not OK. With that accomplished, simply attach the middle piece of the Cadillac support to the stubs of the recipient vehicle support. Use whatever pieces of sheet metal or whatever that you have to in order to make the connection. The Cadillac support may end up sitting forward of the stubs or a little behind them or it might fall exactly into place and you'll have very little welding to do to stitch the Cad support and the stubs together. Whatever. Just use your head and figure out how to connect the sheet metal, then MIG it in place. Now, you will have a radiator that will cool anything and you still have the stock attachment of the stubs to the recipient vehicle so you can use simple hand tools to disassemble the whole mess later if you have to. It'll all come out as one piece -- because it is one piece. This swap may not be for everyone, you will have to judge that for yourself. Consideration should be given to the weight of the system when at full capacity, this could mean as much as 25 to 50 extra pounds on the front end. This swap does give you valuable information on limits of fan installation and mounting of core. == Directing Air Flow == This is one of the most important points of engine cooling and heat disbursal, moving the air through the radiator. In order for cooling to take place, the air MUST move through the radiator fins and by way of convection the cooler air will remove the heat from the engine coolant to the outside air flow. For this to happen, the frontal area of the vehicle must be clear and the entering air must not be blocked. The radiator fins must be clean, clear and unblocked by mechanical damage, i.e. folded over fins, plugged by bugs and dirt. The air MUST pass through the radiator, NOT OVER OR AROUND IT. Seal up hood to rad cradle air spaces with sheet metal or rubber sheeting. The fan shroud should contain at least 90% of the fan blade circumferentially and the edges should be sealed to the contours of the radiator for maximum suction by the fan. Hot exhausted air should have an escape route out of the engine compartment. If it doesn't, make louvers or outside air scoops. Direct air to pass over the engine and exhaust manifolds or headers and out the bottom and sides away from the passenger compartment. Don't remove the rubber skirts from the inner wheel wells over the suspension, they are there for a reason. If you have a external trans cooler in front of the radiator and also have a high stall torque converter, your fluid temperature in the trans cooler will pre-heat the incoming air to the radiator. If this is the case, try relocating the trans cooler to another location. Remember when doing this though, that if the car isn't moving, there is no cooling air going over the cooler. Hood removal will cause buffeting of air in the engine compartment and result in uneven pressure. Removal of side panels on three piece hoods will exhaust air better in some cases. Louvers in hoods and side panels are a god-send to ventilating hot air from the engine compartment. All air in front of the rad cradle is positive flow, air after the rad cradle is negative flow in a driving automobile. In order for that arrangement to continue, air must be evacuated from the engine compartment. When the vehicle is at a standstill, the engine fan provides flow from positive to negative and cools the engine compartment. The fan should have the ability to push/pull enough air to keep the temperature within operating range of 160 to 210 degrees. If you are at the drags and need to cool down between rounds, run your electric water pump and fan along with a portable squirrel cage fan to bring down the temperature. == Electric Water Pumps VS Mechanical Water Pumps == Electric water pumps are constant flow pumps that push X amount of gals of water per minute, no matter what the rpm of the engine is. Mechanical water pumps are variable speed pumps which have decreased flow at idle and increased flow at higher speeds WITH LIMITATIONS. The limitations are; water will slip and cause air cavitation. Mechanical pumps will only operate while the engine is running and electric pumps operation is user selectable. ==Serpentine cross-flow radiators== Most cars from 1960 and up used cross flow radiators. One of the reasons was a lower stance of the overall automobile, two, the vehicles were getting wider and more cooling area was required to cool the larger engines. Cross flow rads had a tank with an inlet/outlet placed on either side. The water entered on one side and passed through the core of the rad, was cooled by the air flow and the heat escaped through convection to the outside air. Engineers found that the longer the liquid was exposed to the cooling flow of air through the rad core, more heat could be extracted from the flowing water. They slowed down the water travel by increasing the size of the water pump pulleys, but that had its limitations. They also added more rows of core, but that too had limitations. Road course racers in 1969, found a way to keep cooling to a simple easy form. To do this, they pulled the tanks off the rads that they were using and placed baffle plates in the tank covers. The baffles were placed so as to divide the rad core section into three distinct areas. Water would enter the upper rad inlet on the right side and would flow across the top section of the rad to the left side, a baffle plate located 2/3rds of the way down the tank caused the coolant to flow across the rad to the right side to the right rad tank. The coolant, couldn't rise upwards because a baffle plate located a 1/3rd of the way down stopped it and forced it to head down lower in the right tank, where it again was drawn across the rad core to the lower left tank outlet and out to the engine. This serpentine course that the coolant took, allowed the coolant to be cooled THREE TIMES by the cooling air flow coming through the core area. Excellent idea!, you say, why don't they do that to all cars today? In a closed course atmosphere, the theory works, but in real everyday life the average auto would never warm up to operating temperature during the daily commute. That's why ONLY HOT RODDERS are privileged to use this system. [[Image:Cross_flow_radiators.gif]] '''DOES TUBE SIZE MATTER??''' The purpose of the radiator is to get the engine up to operating temperature as quick as possible, help it maintain optimum temperature, and remove excess heat when required. The radiator is another name for a heat exchanger, whereby combustion temperatures up to 4500 degrees are transferred to the cooling system of the engine block and taken outside the block via flexible rad hoses to be exposed to the cooling force of air through the rad core, thus, reducing the temperature of the coolant before returning it to the engine block. There are two restrictions in the system. One is the thermostat, which restricts flow and holds heat in the engine until warmed up, and the other is the rad core tubes. The rad tubes have to be of sufficient size so as to allow the coolant to flow through in an unrestricted manner, but also able to 'scrub off' BTU's or heat; which is based on the shape of the tube and the convection of heat away from the coolant to the outside air. A wide flat tube will expose more surface to the outside flow of air than a narrow tube . The reason for this is more surface area is exposed to cooling. Look at the pictures located below and see why that is. [[Image:Tube_sizes.gif]] [[Image:Alum_vs_copper_brass.gif]] [[Category:Engine]] == ALUMINUM RADIATORS == If you are designing/redesigning a cooling system for your car, the utilization of the aluminum radiator is the best overall product on the market for the dollar. This is not to say that the radiators made from copper and brass are not good, and if you have one that works, don't go out and change for the sake of change. But, the choice of aluminum media will outperform their copper counterparts quite easily even though copper is a better conductor of heat. What is a lesser conductor of heat (aluminum) makes up with more surface area available for heat exchange. A 1.25" two-row aluminum radiator will cool just about anything up to 450hp. If designed correctly, will outperform most 4 or 5 row copper brethren. Not only does aluminum offer a great deal more surface area for cooling, but also has a more rigid structure, making for a less likely leaky situation. Also to the credit of this technology and the fact that more modern cars are implementing aluminum, more and more vendors are competing in this product line making for very attractive pricing. '''NOTE''' When running an aluminum radiator or any aluminum parts in contact with the water jacket, make sure to run a sacrificial anode (usually zinc) to prevent the electro-displacement of the aluminum. This will save the aluminum parts, in short. == What You Put In Your Cooling System == Sometimes the key to a bulletproof system is what you put in it and how. You can't just open the rad cap and dump whatever in it. It is recognized that a 50 - 50 mixture of water and antifreeze is an approved OEM mixture that should be adequate for most vehicles. In most cases, water is the basis of coolant in most systems. Can the water that you start with have a detrimental affect on your cooling system? Yes! Water is not necessarily clean and free from contaminates. Water can contain acid, alkaline, foreign matter, etc. These contaminates can combine with the metal within the cooling system and contribute to plugging or slowing down the flow within the system. Today, you will find about 10 different antifreeze products and about 30 different additives for your cooling system. WHY do you need them? Good question! Your OEM dealer and manufacturer want you to use an approved 50 - 50 mix of antifreeze and water because they know and approve the source of that water and the glycol contained in that gallon jug. They know that the formula for that mix will not harm the internal metals or seals within that engine's cooling system. They also know from past experience and warranty replacement that the ditch water and pond scum that you mixed with 30 known additives that you put in your cooling system has cost them (and yourself) billions of dollars over the years. Engineers have formulated cooling system cocktails for the most elaborate machines on earth, so why not use them? When you are refilling your cooling system, the rad cap is open, and you pour directly into the system until it is full. Full means, a level one inch less than the cap height. The engine should be warmed up and running at a fast idle of 1000 to 1200 rpm's. The engine is run until you can see movement in the rad and a slight steam rises from the open cap outlet. If you have a gauge, verify that the temperature is at operating temperate of 160 to 195 degrees. The cap is placed on the rad outlet and turned until tight with the arrows aligned to point at the overflow outlet. The overflow bottle should be within its limits which is usually marked on the container walls. When you are adding to the system, do not open the rad cap, add directly to the reservoir tank. If you have ever watched a pot of water start to boil on the stove, you will know that tiny air bubbles start to rise from the bottom of the pot as the heat is raised. Adding Redline WaterWetter to a cooling system will keep the coolant in more contact with the engine block. Water temperature can be decreased up to 20 degrees F. Adding a water wetter to your coolant will break the surface tension and provide a greater contact area for the coolant. I would think that on a closed system with an overflow bottle, that the system should be filled to the top when it is at operating temperature. One of the advantages of this type of system is to reduce oxidation by eliminating all air from the system. Hence it then becomes a closed system. Why leave a head of air in the top of the radiator when you don't have to? Entrained air is sometimes difficult to get out of the system. {{youcanedit}} == Do your gauges work? *PROPERLY! == Here's a great little article to check out to see if your temperature gauge is working properly. http://www.madelectrical.com/workshop/water-temp-gauge.shtml Check out both parts too.

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