Editing Body and exterior tips

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==Paint and spray guns -- '''click the [edit] link on the right to edit or add tips ==>'''==
*Practice spray technique with water in the gun.
*For consistent film build, don't start and stop at the same point every coat. For more information and photos, see Brian Martin's article posted on the Hotrodders Bulletin Board: [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-30-a-74674.html#post542621 Spray Technique].
*Use proper gun travel techniques. For more information, see Brian Martin's article posted on the Hotrodders Bulletin Board: [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-30-a-74674.html#post542807 Basics of Gun Travel].
*To paint something in a tight area without access, use a paper towel tube. Spray down the tube as it's held over the spot you need to paint.
*Never use anything metal for cleaning paint guns.
*Leftover paint with hardener can be placed in the refrigerator. The cold temperature will slow down the hardener.

==Sanding -- '''click the [edit] link on the right to edit ==>'''==
*For a smaller sanding block, place a sanding block in a vice and cut it with a hacksaw.
*To cut down on waste, buy sandpaper in rolls, rather than sheets.
*Put a piece of 180 grit sand paper on a flat surface, and use it to true your sanding block.
*For sanding concave areas, use a piece of rubber hose as a sanding block.
*Use a mounted hacksaw blade as a sand paper cutting tool.
*Use pieces of sheet metal to size sand paper:
#If you have access to a stomp shear, or something to cut sheet metal straightly, shear a piece of sheet metal in the size of a piece of sand paper.
#To cut sand paper, simply lay the sheet metal on top of the sand paper, and tear off the part of the paper not under the sheet metal.
#Drill a hole in the sheet metal piece for hanging on the wall, and paint with a little bright paint so it's easier to keep track of.
*To make a sanding block for an angle, place body filler in a bag and press it into the angle to make a mold.
*Use a paper cutter for cutting sand paper. With a magic marker, outline different size sanding blocks on the surface of the paper cutter.
*Make use of modern sanding tools that more easily match contours, such as the [http://www.allchem.it/news.html Body Shaper 461], or the [http://guide-rite.com/ Guide-Rite Contour Sander]. Contour gauges (also known as profile gauges) for body work are available at many automotive supply stores.
*Always fold sand paper grit-side to grit-side first for more accurate folds.
*To sand reverse curves, put your sand paper on the top side of your sanding block.
*To sand under rubber, lift it up by forcing a cord or coated wire under it.
*Use a different sanding block for each grit of sand paper. This will save you time, and it will ensure that you completely wear out sandpaper before removing it from the block.

==Taping and masking -- '''click the [edit] link on the right to edit ==>'''==
*When taping a curve, tape will stretch better one way than the other.
*To get tape to stick to rubber, wipe the rubber clean with thinner.
*To prevent tape marks when taping on fresh paint, try applying the tape to your pants first. It won't stick as much with a thin layer of lint.
*Tape down loose masking paper. It can move around while painting, and dirt can hide in the creases.
*If you are taping off a large opening (such as a door) first run several lines of tape across it (sticky side out). Now, when you mask it, the paper will stick to the tape and it won't be so floppy.
*Use aluminum foil for masking odd shapes.

==Body filler -- '''click the [edit] link on the right to edit ==>'''==
*Cut filler spreaders to the desired size.
*For body lines and peaks on hoods or doors, use a contour gauge to make a custom plastic filler spreader:
#Place the contour gauge on an undamaged area to get the contour.
#Trace the contour onto a plastic body filler spreader.
#Trim out the shape on the spreader.
*To clean body filler spreaders, use a 3M scratch pad with lacquer thinner on it.

==Miscellaneous -- '''click the [edit] link on the right to edit ==>'''==
*When you purchase new paint or other finishing products, write the date on them with black magic marker.
*When disassembling parts or vehicles, be organized. Baggies, tape, and a magic marker are essential.
**Write notes on a piece of tape, and stick the piece of tape to a part.
**Put small parts, nuts, bolts, clips, etc. in bags together for each assembly. Mark each bag.
**Tape nuts and bolts into their holes, or tape them to their part. Write notes on the tape.
*Make paper templates for easy cutting and drilling. For more information and photos, see Brian Martin's article posted on the Hotrodders Bulletin Board: [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-13-a-71092.html Basics of Basics: Templates for Accurate Cutting and Drilling].
*To hold nuts in a socket while assembling hard-to-reach body and exterior components, use masking tape stuffed in the socket -- sticky side out. Similarly, bearing grease can be placed on a washer to hold it to a socket for re-assembling parts.
*When disassembling small hard-to-reach parts, use grease in the socket to prevent losing fasteners.
*Use a squirt can for dispensing small amounts of lacquer thinner.

==References -- '''click the [edit] link on the right to add references ==>'''==
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-8-a-70233.html
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-13-a-71092.html
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-30-a-74674.html
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-24-a-72997.html
*[http://www.roddingroundtable.com/tech/articles/sanding2.html Body Working Tips], Carl Brunson, RoddingRoundtable.com

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