Editing How to rebuild an engine

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== Requirements ==

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====What tools are needed?====
The first tool you need is a service manual with complete specifications, such as torque values and tolerances.

You will need a basic set of hand tools, such as a good variety of boxed end wrenches, ratchet and socket set, screwdriver set, and a gasket scraper. This basic set of tools will get you through the majority of the disassembly steps.

You will need a few special tools when it comes time to build or reassemble the engine. A good torque wrench, Plastigauge [http://www.plastigauge.co.uk/], and a cam bearing installing tool (unless machine shop installs cam bearings). Also you may need a ridge reamer, a ring groove cleaner, a ring expander, a ring trimmer, a ring compressor, and a good cylinder hone. 

Depending on how indepth and involved you want to get with your rebuild(s) and how many engines you think you are going to rebuild, you may want to acquire some additional measuring equipment.Items such as a set of outside micrometers, an inside micrometer, vernier, dial or digital calipers and maybe a dial bore gauge can let you know precisely what your sizes are. Think of these tools as indispensable if you are planning to blueprint your engine(s).

====Selecting tools====
For each tool needed to rebuild an engine, we'll need to know:
*Approximately how much do the tools cost?

*Is it better to buy a cheap version of this tool, or should you spend money to buy a high-quality version of this tool? If you're starting a "project" or work on cars often it would be wise to spend the extra money on higher quality tools. SK, Starrett, Craftsman and Snap-On are commonly known to be the "best tools". Snap-On is a little better quality, but cost considerably more and can sometimes be a pain in the butt to exchange your broken tool since you would have to chase down one of their trucks. Craftsman is a good brand of tool too and can be bought at almost any Sears department store. Both of these brand tools come with a lifetime warranty which comes in really handy, especially when your removing a bolt and the tool breaks.

Eventually it will come time to install your camshaft as well.  If you are planning on doing this yourself, you will need a degreeing wheel for sure!  You can buy these alone, or in comprehensive kits from somewhere like JEGS, or Summit Racing Equipment, maybe even the local shop.  They go for around $200.  You will also need a dial indicator as well as a magnetic stand for it.  These can also be purchased at Jegs and Summit.
The larger (diameter) the degree wheel the easier it is to be accurate.

====Purchasing tools====
When purchasing tools it is best to consider the application and frequency of use. If the tool is intended for infrequent to frequent hobby use, the purchase of cheaper brands of tools such as Craftsman may be appropriate. If however the tool is intended for daily use in harsh conditions, especially in the context of automotive repair, an investment in higher quality tools produced by companies such as Matco, Snap On, Mac and Cornwell should be considered.

====Borrowing tools====
If you decide you need some specialized tools that you really don't want to invest money into right now, ask around in your circle of friends to find out if anyone has the tool(s) and will loan to you for the task at hand. It is common courtesy to return borrowed tools promptly and in better condition than they were lent: If a tool was dirty when it was borrowed, clean it before it is returned.

Be aware of the industry notion that a tool that has been borrowed more than twice should be considered for future purchase.

Also, Autozone will lend out tools for free, often Auto Zone may require a deposit on the tool.

====Renting tools====
There are some tools you will want to rent instead of purchasing, such as a cherry picker to remove and replace the motor in the car.

===Work area===
Most people who are going to rebuild their own engine will be tearing it apart before taking it to a machine shop and then reassembling it when the machine work is done. When tearing it apart, try to work in an area that you can get dirty and where bolts and other small items won't get lost. 

When assembling an engine, your work area can't be too clean. A clean, well-organized space makes project completion easier and faster while minimizing the loss of tools and parts due to misplacement and/or damage. Tool storage chests/carts, a label-maker, crafts carriers, magnetized trays and even muffin trays do a fantastic job of keeping a workspace organized and tools/parts in their place. Plastic trash bags of various sizes can also serve in the shop by covering an engine on an engine stand, heads and other items that need to be kept dust free. 

In order to minimize the risk of sending dust up into the air and settling on work area surfaces, a floor sweeping compound, damp saw dust or damp cloth should be used. If the space is small and/or enclosed, an air filtration system may also provide aid in minimizing the presence of particulate matter.

=== Skill level ===
The amount of skill necessary to rebuild an engine depends on what engine you are rebuilding and just how much of the work you plan on doing yourself. If you are rebuilding a standard pushrod V8 such as the small block Chevy with all the machine work being performed by a reputable shop, then the skills needed are basically nothing more than being good with your hands, the ability to take and read measurements, use tools properly, the patience to do things right the first time and the ability to read, understand and follow a comprehensive manual on the subject. If you don't understand or are not certain of a procedure, ask an experienced professional!

If you are rebuilding something more exotic, such as a rotary engine or a turbo diesel then you should take the time to research and familiarize yourself with them. Some engines require complicated computer controlled management systems which may require extensive modifications depending on how the engine is to be rebuilt and will therefore also require a greater skill level.

The main thing to keep in mind is that there are close tolerances to check and a certain order of steps to follow. Just take the time to research your engine and above all, ask questions when necessary.

Today there is much information available on the internet. Be careful! All information is not correct! Verify any information with several professional and/or reliable sources.

== Deciding on an engine ==
Factors in deciding on an engine/build are as follows:
*Need
*Application
*Cost

Picking an engine is no small chore. It's a crucial step to building a hot rod, and one that affects the performance of the final product. It is entirely up to you which engine you want to run in your hot rod. Pretty much anything is possible, but not anything will be money and time efficient. Big Block Chevy's have been jammed into little Chevettes, and Chrysler Hemi's have been sandwiched into VW Bugs. With the right tools, mechanical skill, knowledge, money and time, any engine/vehicle combination can be achieved. But most people don't have unlimited amounts of money and most people don't own a fully equipped shop for massive chassis and body modifications to allow the engine to fit. So it would be recommended to pick an engine that's suitable for your application and your skill level.


===Stock===
A lot of people choose to run the stock motor that came in the car. This would be a good idea if it's your first hot rod, if the engine in your car is still in good condition (if it even came with an engine) or if your motor and mechanical skills aren't developed enough yet to undertake an engine swap. Depending on what kind of car you're working with, the stock engine will often suffice, if the car is meant to be a daily driver or a weekend cruiser. If you're planning to build a wild custom car, strip racer, or weekend warrior, the stock engine probably won't be of any interest to you. There are many performance parts available these days for the older popular engines. Anything from Ford Flatheads, Chrysler's Hemi, Mopar Slant 6's, GM Stovebolts, Buick Nailheads, and Ford Small Blocks has a big variety of aftermarket parts available. Well, maybe not Mopar Slant 6's. Taking the stock engine and hopping it up a bit to squeeze a little bit more performance out of it is a very common thing done by a lot of people building a first time hot rod. Just by changing the exhaust, intake and camshaft, a stock boring engine can often become a neat hot rod mill with plenty of power for daily driving and weekend cruising. If your plans for your hot rod include a loud nasty fire breathing monster motor, your stock motor probably won't do a lot for you. Remember, almost every modification for performance will alter fuel consumption and/or reliability. A competition engine is not built to perform on the street as a daily driver. The more radical the modification(s)...the more maintenance is required. Use common sense and make your modifications compatible (carb, heads, cam, etc).

===Mild===
The next step up from a stock motor would be a mild engine. Often times stock motors cross into the mild engine category. The most popular engines used for a mild HP powerplant are Small Block Chevy's, Small Block Fords, and Small Block Mopar's. Any of these three engines are used widely in the hot rodding hobby as well as race venues of all types and they all have a huge choice of aftermarket parts available. They all present a good platform for a first time rebuild or for somebody who needs more than stock. Again, which engine to pick is entirely up to you. Some people swear on the reliability and availability of parts of the Small Block Chevy's, while other people preach a Ford should go in a Ford. Many rodders consider it sacrilegious to put anything but a Mopar in a Dodge, Plymouth or Chrysler. But in the end, it all comes down to your choice. If you find a Small Block Mopar fitting better in your rod than a Ford or Chevy would and if you are able to get one cheap, who's to say you shouldn't use it? There are many books written on rebuilding these 3 engines, and while the choice shouldn't merely be between these 3, they are the most popular. 


===Wild===
A lot of rodders prefer their tunes coming from big displacement high horsepower output engines. If this sounds like you, your engine rebuild might cost a considerable amount more money than a stock engine rebuild/hop-up. The most popular route for Wild engines include the big 3 American car producers: GM, Ford, and Mopar. The 454 Chevy Big Block motor has long been considered the ultimate hot rod powerplant. However, over time the Chrysler Hemi's and the 427 Ford Big Block have made a big comeback and are all considered perfect candidates for supercharged wild engines.

== Locating an engine to rebuild ==
This section should cover the basics of where to find a potential candidate for an engine rebuilding project. How to search junkyards, classified ads, the internet, etc.

Locating an engine can be as easy as ordering a shortblock crate engine from Edelbrock on the phone, or removing an old rusty flathead from a totaled car in a junkyard. 

===Classifieds===
Probably the best way to go if you don't have an engine hoist, a cherry picker, or some device to lift the engine out of the car. Most newspapers have an Auto Parts section in the classifieds. Often the engines get a section for themselves as well. Usually, the engines sold in classifieds are either pulled already or the owner will pull it for you. This saves you quite a bit of work, time and money. Care should be taken however, to buy a fairly complete engine. The alternator, starter, ac, wiring, intake, carb, fan etc. will all add up to a very big sum of money if purchased separately. Consequently it is advisable for you to buy an engine that comes with all the necessary accessories to make it run. The transmission is another important part when buying an engine from the classifieds. Be sure to check if the engine comes with a transmission, unless you already have one or will be acquiring a different one. Before doing this, you should check to see if the tranny and engine you're buying can be adapted with the proper bellhousing. 

Another good way of finding the perfect engine in the classifieds is by browsing through the car wrecking section. Often times, people will sell cars for parts, or as beaters, or for wrecking. These cars can be had as cheaply as $100. If you're lucky, the engine in them might be half decent. Often times these cars are no longer roadworthy because the body is literally falling apart due to [[rust]], but they're mechanically sound. An advantage to buying a complete donor car is that you get to hear the engine run, the engine is already mated to a working transmission, you can use all the accessories and wiring of the existing car to make the engine run. And if you're lucky you might even find a good use for the rear-end. Sell the interior and seats on eBay or your local classifieds and get a small portion back. The drawback to buying a donor car is that the engine has to be removed, and the car takes up space (which a lot of us just don't have). A disadvantage to buying from the classifieds: you often don't get to hear the engine run (as it's pulled already in a majority of cases).

===Scrapyards===
Scrapyards can be a great resource for locating missing car parts or locating an engine for your hot rod. Scrapyards are full of cars from the 1970's and 80's waiting to donate their mechanical heart. Scrapyard shopping might be a good idea in order to find the best prices in town. A majority of the cars built during the past 3 decades came equipped with a V8 engine. Now a lot of these old cars are forgotten and thrown into scrapyards.

===Networking===
This might work well if you live in a more rural area where pickings in the classifieds are slim. Talk with anyone who gets out into the boonies on a regular basis and offer them a reward for information leading to an abandoned car or truck. Candidates would include police officers, letter carriers, rural newspaper delivery persons, repairmen who work on high-voltage lines, water meter readers, electrical meter readers, surveyors and so forth. Place a wanted poster in the local hunting or fishing supply store to reach sportsmen. 

Most Chevy, Dodge and Ford trucks from the 70's and 80's came equipped with carbureted (non-EFI) V8's perfectly usable to power a hot rod. However, junkyards can be a very rough places in which  to work. Time is going to be needed to remove the engine, and all tools and equipment have to be brought from home. It might take several hours before the engine comes loose and out of its nest. Each car has different places where parts bolt onto and where the engine connects to the frame, and each bolt has to be removed. Most of these cars have been sitting there for a while, so be prepared to wrestle with rusted, stripped and broken bolts, layers of caked-on grease and dirt on the undercarriage and oil pan, and a lot of rusty sheetmetal. 

Care should be taken when selecting an engine. Engine size, width, and length should all be taken into account. Depending on which car the engine is destined for, measurements are crucial to determining the fit.
 
When choosing an engine, engines with thick amount of surface rust, critical missing parts or a obviously cracked block or heads should be completely avoided . If you can, pick an engine in a car that retains its' hood. A car that has been sitting out in the yard without a  hood or a carburetor will have rust built up inside the cylinders from the rain pouring into the engine. The more accessories and parts that are remaining on the engine, the better for future use. Testing the engine to see if it turns over by turning over the crankshaft with a long breaker-bar type wrench is a good way of determining whether the block is frozen or rusted solid. If an engine doesn't turn over, leave it be.

== Acquisition ==
This section should cover what to do after you've decided what engine you're going to use. It might need to be removed, hauled in your vehicle, shipped, etc.

=== Removal ===
How to safely and properly pull an engine.

<em>Engine hoist -- A mechanical device used in the removal and installation of automotive engines. </em>

*If you have a digital camera, Now would be a good time to take many good photos before you pull it down, for Installation reference,i.e. brackets and wiring. For more information on documenting your project, see: [[How to document your project]].
*Disconnect the [[battery]].
*Use baggies for ALL your nuts and bolts, and label them. Items too large for baggies can be placed in plastic trash bags or cardboard boxes, but above all, label them! Also you can use a felt tip to mark parts..top, bottom, left, right and etc.
*Remove the hood. Don't do it alone...get a neighbor, a buddy, your wife.
*Be sure to drain any fluids beforehand, to keep from making a mess, and to be friendly to the environment
*Remove the fan, fan shroud, and water hoses (drain and dispose of [[coolant]] properly; it's poisonous to humans and animals). You may also want to remove the [[radiator]], but if you are careful, it is not necessary.
*Disconnect [[fuel line]]s, [[vacuum line]]s (mark termination and make a written list), wiring (mark termination and make a written list), belts, and pulleys that may be in the way. You can also draw pictures if a camera isn't handy.
*Place a jack under the transmission to keep it upright in the vehicle, unless you are removing it as well. 
*If you plan on removing the [[transmission]], don't forget any [[linkage]]s, [[backup lamp switch]]es, [[neutral safety switch]]es (some are transmission-mounted), modulator valve vacuum lines, TCC control wiring, and the [[speedometer cable]] (or speed transducer and wires). Cover any holes with tape.
*Fit a plastic bag over the tailshaft, and duct tape it after you remove the [[driveshaft]]. This will keep residual oil in, and dirt out.
*Be sure that whatever you are using to lift the engine is strong enough to lift more than the weight of the engine safely, and is on a completely level surface. If outriggers are provided, use them. Be absolutely certain that the lift can not roll on its own, or become unbalanced side-to-side.
*Use some type of lift ring on the engine, such as a plate that bolts to where the carburetor was. For easier engine removal, the [http://www.myks-tools.com/ Engine Hoist Pivot Plate] has been recommended.
*Be sure to use padded fender protectors; a strike from ring gear teeth can do serious body and fender damage.
*Never store an engine by keeping it in suspension in the hoist as this is an unsafe practice and poses the threat of damaging the hoist. 
*Jack engine up slightly, and remove the bolts to the motor mounts and the transmission bell-housing (unless you are removing the transmission also).
*If you raise the vehicle USE JACK STANDS SAFELY POSITIONED!

=== Transportation ===
How to ship an engine through a third-party shipping service. And, how to safely load, secure, transport, and unload an engine.

An engine, because of the oil and gasoline residue it holds, is considered hazardous material in the United States and comes under special requirements for shipping documentation.  If you do not already know how to do this, it isn't worth your while for one engine.  Get somebody who does this regularly (maybe a friendly auto dealer or salvage yard) to do it for you. If you are going to transport the engine/transmission in your own truck, get one or two car tires to sit the item(s) on. It's non-skid, protects the item(s) being transported and allows stabilization when the item(s) are strapped down.

== Disassembly==
Step-by-step. Everything you need to do to your engine prior to assessing it for machine work.
Before you start taking things off of your engine there are a few items you want to have on hand so you can start and finish with few stops and starts.
You will need a 4-wheel engine stand (3-wheel engine stands have a wicked tendency to tip easily).  Using a 4- wheel engine stand is the safest and fastest way to dis-assemble an engine.
You will need baggies to put all of your nuts and bolts into so you do not lose any of them. Make sure to label the baggies. Some like to use a metal coffee can with some 1/8th inch holes poked in the bottom and sides, to clean parts with prior to putting them in the baggies.  This will allow you to rinse the dirt and grime off all the fasteners very fast and you do not have to worry about any of them falling out into the solvent bath.  A can of WD-40 or something like it to be used on the rusted fasteners.  It is a good idea to have a bunch of clean rags.  Some of these engines can be DIRTY and if you keep your tools clean as you go, you will not waste time washing your hands.  If at all possible roll the engine to a place where you can clean/degrease it from top to bottom. The only thing worse than dropping a greasy iron head on your foot is trying to catch an engine tipping over on a 3-wheel engine stand. I would also like to take a few pictures of the engine from all angles.  Then when you are putting things back together you have a reference photo to figure out just where that bracket goes.

The first items that come off of an engine I am going to rebuild are the exhaust manifolds.  Then take off all the brackets holding the A/C compressor, alternator,power steering pump, and smog pump.  Then take the distributor out.  I wrap a clean rag around the bottom end of the distributor and then put it into a zip-lock plastic bag.  I can then clean this later.  Now for the carburetor or fuel injection or throttle body.  For the injectors I put them into plastic bags.  Again when it comes time to put new "O"-rings on the injectors I can work on each, one at a time, without getting them dinged up in the fastener can.  If the engine has a carburetor do not turn it upside down unless you plan on installing a rebuild kit on it also.  Any "crud" that has settled to the bottom of the carburetor fuel bowl will become lodged in places you do not want dirt or rust, so keep it right-side up and again wrap a clean rag around it and then pop it into a plastic bag.  I do not like to keep the carburetor in the garage all wrapped up like this so I put it in the storage shed with the gas cans and things.  If you are working on an engine with a throttle body just put the unit in a plastic bag for now.  At a later time you can put in new "O" rings.  You just don't need all these parts in your way until you start to reassemble the engine.
For an engine with a carburetor now is the time for the fuel pump to be taken off.  On Small Block Chevys (SBC), there is a spacer plate that needs to be removed also so you can take the fuel pump push rod out of the block.  I put this rod and the spacer plate in with the fasteners.

== Machining ==

=== Deciding what machine work to do ===
What will the engine be used for? This will be the determing factor on how much you're going to spend. In either case, whether it's a stock replacement swap or a race engine, there are a few things that should be done. 

#Have your block degreased and magnafluxed. If it passes the magnaflux test, proceed to the next step knowing it to be crack free. 
#Have it sonic tested, this way you know if the engine block is even worth using. 
#Have your cylinder walls checked out for roundness, this will prolong the life of your piston rings and life of your engine.
#Have your machinists put a fresh hone on your cylinder walls, unless you plan on doing this step yourself.
#If over-boring an engine, try to use a "Honing-Plate" if at all possible
#Don't Forget to have new cam bearings and freeze plugs installed, for most guys its alot easier having the shop install these
==== What to expect to pay for machining work ====
It really varies by where you get the work done and what you actually get done.  An average machine shop charges around 90 dollars per hour.  A simple head grinding could take as little as a half hour whereas a  major bore and hone could take a few hours.

=== How to select a machine shop ===
Cleanliness, experience, referral from trusted sources, knowledge, etc. Remember, anyone can purchase the machinery and equipment. Good equipment is necessary, but so is experience. No two shops do things the same way. Talk to the shop owner/manager and find one that you are comfortable with. Big names don't always assure top quality.
Your machine work is only as good as the machinist performing the work! Meet and talk to the machinist that will be working on your engine...establish a rapport...be his friend as the future life of your engine is in his hands!

== Assembly ==
<<Step-by-step engine assembly process>>

*Always chase your threads with a hand tap on all holes where torque values are critical, 
like head bolts to block. 

*Clean and oil threads for a good torque reading but be sure that this is either what your manual instructs or is common practice for your engine/build. Take special care with soft metals like aluminum as you may do irreparable damage. 

*Clean all bolt threads thoroughly: A wire brush on a grinder works well for this.

*Be sure to check and verify before using existing head bolts as some engines require new ones.

*Be sure when using or replacing any and all bolts with stainless or aluminum to use anti-seize on the threads.

*Always check the unit system and grade of replacement fasteners. Using metric instead of US measurements, for example, is not in any way acceptable, nor is using ungraded or the wrong grade fasteners. Always use the fastener designated appropriate for your application. Using the wrong fastener will likely compromise the engine, its parts and/or put one at risk. In some instances, using too "strong" of a fastener may do more harm than good because they were intended to break before serious engine damage could occur.

== Testing and break-in ==
<<Engine break-in procedures>>


The following is excerpted from a post written by techinspector1 for an auto enthusiast forum on the subject of changing automotive oil formulations and the flat tappet camshaft failures experienced as a result. Within the post some break-in procedures have been outlined: 

"Fellows, we are the victims of technology marching on. Oil formulations are being changed due to pressure from the OEM's and EPA. Zinc and phosphorus tend to coat O2 sensors and plug catalytic converters resulting in warranty claims as well as contributing to dirty exhaust emissions, so they are being eliminated from motor oils as we speak. These elements have been used in the oil since Noah was a kid to provide extreme pressure lubrication and protection from galling on heavily loaded engine components such as the cam lobe/lifter crown interface. The oil companies have no choice, they have to knuckle under to pressure from the powers that be.

I don't see this as being any different than points-type ignitions. Kettering invented the system early in the last century and it endured for some 70 years. When it came time to clean up the environment, the OEM's switched to electronic ignition and we never looked back. Now we have moved to solid state ignition with a coil for each cylinder, controlled by computers. Same with carburetors. Electronic fuel injection is light years ahead of the old technology, contributes to vastly improved fuel mileage and much cleaner emissions.

The only cure-all that I see is a change to roller cams. With them, there is no special procedure for break-in. You just oil them, drop them in and drive. No hocus-pocus or special lubricants. Be advised though, that there could be a problem with mechanical roller camshafts in a street motor. The best application for a street motor would be a hydraulic roller cam. Most of them will have a rev limit of around 6,000 to 6,200 rpm's due to the aggressive lobe design, but if you need more r's than that, you're not building a street motor anyway and should consider a mechanical roller cam. The old flat tappet technology is just about dead, save for a few of us old die-hards.

For those of you who insist on using flat tappet cams (more than likely due to the cost of roller units, particularly if building a pre-roller cam type of block), I will herein give my take on the best way to do it.

1. Start with a matched and coordinated set of parts from ONE SOURCE, buying the springs and lifters  recommended by the cam grinder for your particular application and rpm limit. There is no point in using Gorilla springs in a street motor. You're just asking for it. Always consult with the tech guy at your favorite cam grinder for a cam/lifter/spring recommendation for your particular application. Never rely solely on the recommendation of gearheads on auto forums. It's ok to ask and get a general recommendation from such individuals, but before you lay down your hard-earned money, consult with the manufacturer's tech guy. Of course, he will want to know all the particulars of your combination including exact static compression ratio, so have all this written down so you can answer his questions intelligently. 

2. Discuss using armored lifters with the tech person at your favorite grinder. These have a stellite face on the lifter crown that will resist scuffing. By the way, I often read posts by those who are building motors that they made a great deal on a cam and lifter set. There is no such thing as a "great deal" on cam and lifters. Little do they know that this is junk made offshore and that they will be buying a new set of cam and lifters shortly, as well as spending a few days tearing the motor completely apart to clean out the shrapnel. Yep, it was a great deal though. You might want to buy a set of these with the "great deal" cam and lifters....
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=27006

3. Oil.... From what I've read, there are only a couple of oils left that will give protection to your new cam and lifters and even they are changing formulations as we speak. Crane Cams recommends Shell Rotella and an engine oil supplement containing extreme pressure lubricants. The other oil that is touted by engine builders is 15-40 RPM Delo.
http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/product_rotellamulti.html
GM has discontinued the EOS they used to offer. I used it for years to break in new motors, so had to search out an alternative. A friend of mine who holds a PhD in chemistry found a company that produces an engine oil additive that contains a good dose of ZDDP, the extreme pressure lubricant that is being phased out of conventional motor oils because it poisons catalytic converters and leads to increased warranty claims at the new car dealership service departments. In my opinion, if you use a good quality oil and add 1 1/2 ounces of this additive per quart of oil for initial startup, you've done as well as you can to prevent lifter/lobe scuff. With subsequent oil changes, one ounce per quart of oil should help to contribute to long engine life. 
http://www.sfrcorp.com/product/9

4. Assemble your heads with old, used --STOCK-- springs. DO NOT ASSEMBLE WITH THE SPRINGS YOU WILL EVENTUALLY RUN. I keep an old set on the shelf just for running in a new motor, then change them out at the 30 mile mark. Manley makes a lever-type tool for this procedure, to be used with shop air to keep the valve seated. Don't have shop air?? Change them out at a buddies house or have the machine shop do it. What's that you say, you don't want the hassle of changing out the springs?? O.K., suffer the alternative then.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_748285_-1_10797
The other way is a set of reduced-ratio rocker arms for break-in. I've heard that Crower Cams makes some 1.2:1 for SBC and 1.5:1 for BBC, but am unable to find them in Crower's catalog. I suspect they would be high-buck roller units though, something that might be out of the reach of the home builder who only does one or two builds a year. Somebody needs to step up and make some stamped steel rockers in a reduced ratio that would be affordable for everyone.

5. Checking for interference. Nothing will wipe a cam and lifters quicker than mechanical interference in the valvetrain. Check for piston to valve clearance, rocker arm to stud clearance at full lift, spring coil bind (stacking solid) and retainer to valve guide boss clearance at full lift. Also check for pushrod to guide clearance to insure the pushrods are not rubbing or binding. You might have one culprit that you didn't catch, such as a bent pushrod. Roll all pushrods on a piece of plate glass before assembly to insure straightness.
http://www.iskycams.com/camshaft.php

6. Another problem which can occur if you are not relentless in checking tolerances is tight lifter to bore fitment. Failure of the lifters to rotate in the lifter bore will gall the lifter crown in short order and it's downhill from there. I don't know about the rest of you, but I always oil the lifter bores and lifters when doing mock-up and drop them through the lifter bores. With the lifter bores vertical on the engine stand, the lifters should drop through and fall into your hand with oil on them. If they don't, hone the lifter bores for additional clearance until they will fall through. I'm told that the cam grinders are beginning to manufacture their lifters with a shorter radius on the crown to assist in lifter rotation. I'm recalling from memory and may be wrong, but I'm thinking that the traditional radius that has been used is 50". Maybe they're reducing that to 40" or 30". I'm just supposing and don't know for sure.

7. These suggestions are brought to you by John Callies of Callies Crankshaft fame.
a.visual inspect for tool chatter and mis-machining.
b.clean the shaft with mineral spirits and dry thoroughly.
c.use a hand held propane torch and heat the shaft to dispurse any moisture.
d.spray the cam with graphite.
e.use quality high pressure lube on cam lobes and lifter crowns (Molybdenum Disulfide black goop that comes with the cam and lifters).
f.select a quality lifter since the market is being saturated with off shore lifters that are soft.
g. make sure on startup the engine is ready to run at 2000 -2500 rpm for 20 minutes. ZERO IDLING FOR 20 MINUTES.

8. Make sure the motor is timed and use a known good carb or other induction system as well as ignition system. THE NEW CAM AND LIFTERS WILL NOT TOLERATE ANY GRINDING ON THE STARTER TO GET THE MOTOR FIRED. THEY ARE LUBED BY SPLASH OFF THE CRANK AT HIGHER ENGINE SPEEDS. HAVE EVERYTHING READY TO GO INCLUDING HAVING THE CARB PRIMED WITH FUEL AND A FULLY CHARGED BATTERY. 

9. Pre-oil the motor with a drill motor and oil pump primer tool such as this one from Jegs...
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_754806_-1_10455
Put a socket on the harmonic damper retaining bolt and rotate the motor through at least 2 full revolutions while priming.

10. At the end of your 20 minute break-in period, drop the oil and filter and change them out. Drive the vehicle for 30 miles, altering the speed and letting the motor rev down from 60 mph to 20 mph with your foot off the gas pedal. Drop the oil and filter and repeat the EOS again. CHANGE THE VALVE SPRINGS TO THE ONES THAT CAME WITH THE CAM KIT. Drive for 500 miles and drop the oil and filter again."
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The best advice is get somebody more experienced with engine assembly and learn from them since trying to do it alone could be a recipe for disaster especially since you have spent all that time and money getting to this stage. There are a whole lot of little hints and signs that to a novice don't mean a thing and you just go on not realizing that something has happened that will cause you engine not to run correctly or worse. Check, check and recheck everything...take nothing for granted!

[[Category:Engine]]
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