Editing Body and exterior tips
(
diff
)
← Older revision
|
Latest revision
(
diff
) |
Newer revision →
(
diff
)
Jump to:
navigation
,
search
__NOTOC__ {{youcanedit}} ==Paint and spray guns -- '''click the [edit] link on the right to edit or add tips ==>'''== *Practice spray technique with water in the gun. *For consistent film build, don't start and stop at the same point every coat. For more information and photos, see Brian Martin's article posted on the Hotrodders Bulletin Board: [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-30-a-74674.html#post542621 Spray Technique]. *Use proper gun travel techniques. For more information, see Brian Martin's article posted on the Hotrodders Bulletin Board: [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-30-a-74674.html#post542807 Basics of Gun Travel]. *To paint something in a tight area without access, use a paper towel tube. Spray down the tube as it's held over the spot you need to paint. *Never use anything metal for cleaning paint guns. *Leftover paint with hardener can be placed in the refrigerator. The cold temperature will slow down the hardener. *For stirring paint, use inexpensive "jumbo sticks", tongue depressors, popsicle sticks, wood sticks, or butter knives. *When opening a can of paint, punch a few holes in the trough where the lid sits. That way, excess paint will drain out of the trough and into the can, rather than splattering when placing the lid back on the can. *For easier pouring, affix a 2-inch piece of masking tape to the edge of a large gallon of paint. Pour the paint over the piece of tape like a "tongue" on a can. *Use a ladle for handling paint. *For measuring paint, use plastic or Pyrex mixing cups with measurements printed on the side. Paint stirring sticks with marks for different mix ratios can also be useful. *When opening a gallon of paint that you aren't going to use all of immediately, mix it very well and pour it off into quart cans. Intermix the paint in the cans as you pour; pour a little bit into each can at a time. ==Sanding -- '''click the [edit] link on the right to edit ==>'''== *For a smaller sanding block, place a sanding block in a vice and cut it with a hacksaw. *To cut down on waste, buy sandpaper in rolls, rather than sheets. *Put a piece of 180 grit sand paper on a flat surface, and use it to true your sanding block. *For sanding concave areas, use a piece of rubber hose as a sanding block. *Use a mounted hacksaw blade as a sand paper cutting tool. *Use pieces of sheet metal to size sand paper: #If you have access to a stomp shear, or something to cut sheet metal straightly, shear a piece of sheet metal in the size of a piece of sand paper. #To cut sand paper, simply lay the sheet metal on top of the sand paper, and tear off the part of the paper not under the sheet metal. #Drill a hole in the sheet metal piece for hanging on the wall, and paint with a little bright paint so it's easier to keep track of. *To make a sanding block for an angle, place body filler in a bag and press it into the angle to make a mold. Or, for an actual sanding "block", place bondo on plastic wrap, press it into the angle, and press a block of wood into the back. When it hardens, it's bonded to the wood. *Use a paper cutter for cutting sand paper. With a magic marker, outline different size sanding blocks on the surface of the paper cutter. *Make use of modern sanding tools that more easily match contours, such as the [http://www.allchem.it/news.html Body Shaper 461], or the [http://guide-rite.com/ Guide-Rite Contour Sander]. Contour gauges (also known as profile gauges) for body work are available at many automotive supply stores. *Always fold sand paper grit-side to grit-side first for more accurate folds. *To sand reverse curves, put your sand paper on the top side of your sanding block. *To sand under rubber, lift it up by forcing a cord or coated wire under it. *Use a different sanding block for each grit of sand paper. This will save you time, and it will ensure that you completely wear out sandpaper before removing it from the block. *For sand paper, understand the different grit ratings and and their micron equivalents. For more information, see [http://www.autobodystore.com/paper_grading.htm Abrasive Grade Comparison]. *When color sanding a panel: #Sand in alternating directions. For example, sand vertically with 1000 grit, then horizontally with 1500 or 2000 grit. #After using 2000 grit, use a 4000 grit pad on a DA sander, which will highlight any of the previous sanding marks. #After sanding, let a panel or vehicle sit in the sun for a few hours. Then, take it inside, wait for it to cool, and buff it. ==Taping and masking -- '''click the [edit] link on the right to edit ==>'''== *When taping a curve, tape will stretch better one way than the other. *To get tape to stick to rubber, wipe the rubber clean with thinner. *To prevent tape marks when taping on fresh paint, try applying the tape to your pants first. It won't stick as much with a thin layer of lint. *Tape down loose masking paper. It can move around while painting, and dirt can hide in the creases. *If you are taping off a large opening (such as a door) first run several lines of tape across it (sticky side out). Now, when you mask it, the paper will stick to the tape and it won't be so floppy. *Use aluminum foil for masking odd shapes. *Use garbage bags to mask wheels. They can be cut or stretched to cover a wheel. When you're done painting, you can dispose of all of your masking in the garbage bags. *When painting up to a rubber gasket (like a windshield), place a length of rubber vacuum line or clothesline under the gasket. When the paint is dry, pull the line out. *When taping off a two-tone, use specific taping and and painting guidelines. For more information, see Brian Martin's article on the Hotrodders Bulletin Board: [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-15-a-71220.html Taping off a Two Tone]. ==Body filler -- '''click the [edit] link on the right to edit ==>'''== *Cut filler spreaders to the desired size. *For body lines and peaks on hoods or doors, use a contour gauge to make a custom plastic filler spreader: #Place the contour gauge on an undamaged area to get the contour. #Trace the contour onto a plastic body filler spreader. #Trim out the shape on the spreader. *To clean body filler spreaders, use a 3M scratch pad with lacquer thinner on it. ==Miscellaneous -- '''click the [edit] link on the right to edit ==>'''== *To preserve hardener, displace the air in the can with inert gas, such as that from your welder, or use a commercial inert gas finish preservative such as [http://www.bloxygen.com/ Bloxygen]. *When you purchase new paint or other finishing products, write the date on them with black magic marker. *When disassembling parts or vehicles, be organized. Baggies, tape, and a magic marker are essential. **Write notes on a piece of tape, and stick the piece of tape to a part. **Put small parts, nuts, bolts, clips, etc. in bags together for each assembly. Mark each bag. **Tape nuts and bolts into their holes, or tape them to their part. Write notes on the tape. *Make paper templates for easy cutting and drilling. For more information and photos, see Brian Martin's article posted on the Hotrodders Bulletin Board: [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-13-a-71092.html Basics of Basics: Templates for Accurate Cutting and Drilling]. *To hold nuts in a socket while assembling hard-to-reach body and exterior components, use masking tape stuffed in the socket -- sticky side out. Similarly, bearing grease can be placed on a washer to hold it to a socket for re-assembling parts. *When disassembling small hard-to-reach parts, use grease in the socket to prevent losing fasteners. *Use a squirt can for dispensing small amounts of lacquer thinner. *Be creative when sourcing patch metal. Potential sources include: **old refrigerators **old air conditioning units **old computer cases **fenders, roofs, or other body parts from vehicles *Use proper techniques for removing old or rusted bolts. See [[Removing rusted and broken fasteners]]. *To protect painted bolts, place a sandwich bag over the bolt head before pushing on the socket. *If you are going to be aligning a body part, and it will require a lot of loosening and tightening, use mock-up bolts with plastic washers. When the panel fit is perfect, go back and change out the bolts one by one. *Socket sets with plastic inserts may be useful for protecting bolt heads. However, they are reported to strip out easily. *For reproducing small parts such as gaskets, use plastic body filler to make a mold: #If you don't already have the part, you have to make something in its shape (for example, carve it out of soft plastic). #Apply some wax to the part (this will act as a mold release), and lay it down on a piece of wax paper. #Mix up some body filler, and place it in a small cup or bowl (the cap on a plastic jug may work). #While the filler is still wet, place it over the part. #When the filler hardens, you can remove it and use it as your mold. *For careful application of penetrating oil, put your oil in a hand spray bottle, and set the nozzle to a stream. ==References -- '''click the [edit] link on the right to add references ==>'''== *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-8-a-70233.html *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-13-a-71092.html *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-30-a-74674.html *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-24-a-72997.html *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-68901.html *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-2-a-69242.html *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-3-a-69594.html *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-5-a-69830.html *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-7-a-70195.html *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-10-a-70323.html *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-11-a-70436.html *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-12-cans-71087.html *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-13-999-ahh-heck-lets-just-make-14-a-71163.html http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-15-a-71220.html *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-16-a-71240.html *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-17-a-71305.html *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-18-a-71400.html http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-19-a-71689.html *[http://www.roddingroundtable.com/tech/articles/sanding2.html Body Working Tips], Carl Brunson, RoddingRoundtable.com {{youcanedit}}
|
Editing help
(opens in new window)
Template:Needspics
(
edit
)
Template:Rounded
(
edit
)
Template:Youcanedit
(
view source
)
Personal tools
Log in / create account
Namespaces
Page
Discussion
Variants
Views
Read
Edit
View history
Actions
Search
Navigation
Main Page
Recent changes
Random page
Help
All articles
Start a new article
Hotrodders forum
Categories
Best articles
Body and exterior
Brakes
Cooling
Electrical
Engine
Fasteners
Frame
Garage and shop
General hotrodding
Identification and decoding
Interior
Rearend
Safety
Steering
Suspension
Tires
Tools
Transmission
Troubleshooting
Wheels
Toolbox
What links here
Related changes
Special pages
Terms of Use
Copyright
Privacy Policy
Your Privacy Choices
Manage Consent