Editing DynoSim combinations

*This page will show horsepower and torque results using different combinations of parts....

*OK, first things first. I have to agree that the DynoSim results sometimes seem optimistic, but consider this. The software is configured with the premise that the hard parts will be tweaked by the builder, the build dimensions will be blueprinted to the loose side and the final tuning will be spot-on. There's an old saying in hot rodderdom, "Loose is fast". 

And when I run a sim, I change things around considerably to get to the final figures. It will take me an hour or better to do it properly on just one motor. You may have seen, sometimes I will include verbage like "tried 6 different cams, retarded 'em, advanced em', 3 different manifolds, 4 different static compression ratios, etc." Just changing the cam requires runnin it straight up, advancing 2 degrees, then 4 degrees, then retarding it 2 degrees, then 4 degrees. So I have 5 different sets of figures just for 1 cam. Do that with 6 different cams and you have 30 sets of numbers.....just for the cam. Now, multiply that times different manifolds, different static compression ratios, etc. and you can see where it is a time-consuming task to sim a motor. But that's who I am. If I can't do it right, I won't do it at all. You can rest assured that when I post a sim, the motor has been tweaked to within an inch of its life. It's as good as it's gonna get with the parts used. Use different parts and you will get a lesser result. Anyway, that's probably why some fellows question my numbers, because they've never done what I've done with the software. Most people don't have the time or patience to do it the way I do, but I'm retired, have the time and patience and like nothing better than to start with a "clean sheet of paper" and build a motor. 

I have checked the results I get against real dyno pulls and this DynoSim has shown to be within 2% of real. Not bad in my opinion. I'm seriously considering upgrading to DynoSim5 and an add-on cam file. I have 800 cam files now, but the add-on would give me 6000 files. I was dragged kicking and screaming into the computer age, but I'll tell you, there's nothing any more fun than dinkin' on this thing. Well.....there was that time in New Orleans, but that's a whole 'nuther story

*355 Gen I Chevy street motor, 453 HP, 475 ft-lbs torque. 
*Block: '68-'86 Chevy 350 Gen I bored +0.030".
*Crank: Stock 350, 3.48" stroke, 2.450" main journal diameter. 
*Rods: Stock 350 5.7". Recommend ARP bolts, re-size big end. 
*Pistons: Keith Black hypereutectic, part #KB193, 12cc D-cup, 5/64,5/64,3/16 rings. 1.561" compression height. Gap top ring 0.026", second ring 0.018". 
*Heads: RHS Pro Torquer Vortec 170-64, 2.02" intake, 1.60" exhaust. These heads will accept either conventional or Vortec type intake manifolds. They are drilled and tapped for both types. 
*Intake manifold: Dual-plane, high-rise such as the Edelbrock RPM, Weiand Stealth or Professional Products Typhoon.
*Carburetor: Vacuum secondaries 750 CFM.
*Headers: 1 3/4" primaries, long-tube, equal-length. Install "X" pipe between collectors and mufflers. Run 2 1/2" pipe to the rear through mufflers of your choice. 
*Camshaft: CompCams flat tappet hydraulic, installed straight up. 
*http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=72&sb=0
*Rocker Arms: 1.6 ratio on both intake and exhaust. 
*Static Compression Ratio: 9.6:1
*Dynamic Compression Ratio: 8.4:1
*Squish: 0.035" to 0.045". Zero piston deck height with 0.035" to 0.045" head gasket or 0.010" to 0.020" piston deck height with Victor Reinz #5746 head gasket that compresses to 0.025". 
*RPM HP TQ
*1000 59 310
*1500 103 361
*2000 150 395
*2500 192 402
*3000 246 431
*3500 306 459
*4000 360 473
*4500 407 475
*5000 442 464
*5500 453 433
*6000 450 394
*Stock converter and stock rear gear will work, but would be more fun with a converter that stalls at 2000 to 2200 rpm's and a 3.73 gear. The most out-of-whack spec on this build is the fact that RHS flows their heads on a 4.200" pipe. The resulting flow numbers bear little resemblance to real-life flow on a 4.030" cylinder bore. If you want closer to real, multiply these hp/torque figures by 0.95.



*383 Gen I street motor. 485 hp, 496 ft-lbs torque.
*OK, staying with the RHS heads, but using the Pro Action 180's and reducing the advertised flow by 5% to get closer to real, flow used for this build on a 383 will be as follows:
*.100 70 55
*.200 143 96
*.300 197 149
*.400 231 168
*.500 245 177
*.600 250 181
*.700 257 185
*We'll bore a 350 block +0.030" and use a 3.750" stroke crank and 5.7" rods. Scat makes a cast STEEL crank and capscrew I-beam rods that will work here. If you want to use a 4.040" or 4.060" bore, that's OK too. 4.060" will make a 388 motor. 
*Heads: Racing Head Service Pro Action 180, 72cc chambers, 2.02" intake, 1.60" exhaust. 
*Pistons: Keith Black hypereutectic #KB134, 7cc flat-top, 5/64/5/64/3/16 rings, 1.433 compression height. 
*Intake manifold: Dual-plane, high-rise such as the Edelbrock RPM, Weiand Stealth or Professional Products Typhoon.
*Carburetor: Vacuum secondaries 850
*Headers: 1 3/4" primaries, long-tube, equal-length. Install "X" pipe between collectors and mufflers. Run 2 1/2" to 2 3/4" pipe to the rear through mufflers of your choice. 
*Camshaft: Compcams hydraulic flat tappet, installed 2 degrees retarded. 
*http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=79&sb=0
*Rocker arms: 1.6, lift at valve 0.512"
*Static compression ratio: 10.0:1
*Dynamic compression ratio: 8.2:1
*RPM HP TQ
*2000 148 389
*2500 188 395
*3000 242 423
*3500 307 461
*4000 370 485
*4500 425 496
*5000 465 488
*5500 485 462
*6000 481 421


*383, 505 hp, 500 ft-lbs torque. Same motor as above with solid, flat tappet cam, 1.5 rockers.
*http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=238&sb=0
*RPM HP TQ
*2000 145 382
*2500 185 390
*3000 239 418
*3500 303 455
*4000 370 485
*4500 427 500
*5000 466 490
*5500 493 471
*6000 505 441
*6500 481 389


*355, L31 heads, flat tappet hydraulic cam, stock rail rockers, some head work for better springs.
*Bore the block 0.030", use these or other 12cc pistons w/5.7 rods....
*[url]http://www.kb-silvolite.com/test/kb_car/performance.php?action=details&P_id=155[/url]
*Makes 9.6:1 static compression ratio. Cut block decks to zero and use a 0.040" head gasket. 
*Use XE274H Comp cam installed at zero with Comp 981 valve springs/ 750-16 retainers/ 630-16 keepers and stock 1.5 rail rockers.... *1.250" springs should be OK because the cam is a moderate grind, hydraulic flat tappet.....Narrow the O.D. of the guides to less than *the I.D. of the damper spring and cut for PC-type positive seals...Cut top of guide for 0.550" play from bottom of retainer to top of *guide seal. Pin the pressed-in rocker studs with this kit....
*[url]http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-806G?autofilter=1&part=MRG-806G&N=700+4294746236+115&autoview=sku[/url]
*Performance Distributors 12720 HEI, custom curved...
*[url]http://www.performancedistributors.com/gmssdui.htm[/url]
*Cam card is here....
*[url]http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=87&sb=0[/url]
*Edelbrock RPM Vortec intake mounting a 750 vacuum secondaries carb of your choice. Edelbrock, Rochester 5 psi max at the inlet, Holley *6 psi max at the inlet.
*Performer RPM Vortec #7116* 
*Performer RPM Vortec w/ EnduraShine finish #71164* 
*Polished Performer RPM Vortec #71161* 
*Look for a used manifold on craigslist to save a few sheckels. 
*Long-tube 1 5/8" headers with X or H pipe right after the collectors, 2 1/2"/2 3/4" pipes to the rear through mufflers of your choice.
*Use 2500 stall converter, shorter rear gears.   
*RPM HP TQ
*2000 138 364
*2500 176 369
*3000 224 392
*3500 281 421
*4000 331 435
*4500 370 432
*5000 402 422
*5500 405 386
*6000 375 328
*Peak dynamic compression ratio 8.16:1 on KB's calculator.
*Peak volumetric efficiency 97.2% @5000
*Peak BMEP 184.5 @4000

*In this build, I would be interested in spending the least amount of money as suggested by the OP. In that vein, I would use stock *rail rockers. Lift is under a half inch, so I would think the rr would be ok. Since I'm not sure that all locks locate the valve tip *the same, relative to the top of the retainer, I would welcome input from others about using a (-0.050") lock (that's what's listed *above.) to insure the valve tip sticks up far enough above the retainer so that the retainer top surface doesn't get loaded by the *side rails of the rail rockers. 



[[Category:Engine]]