Editing Window removal and installation

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== Tools needed ==
For non-moving windows and windshields that are sealed in with butyl tape, you will need:
*"Bat wing tool" K-D #2038 molding removal tool
*Window wire, piano wire, or guitar strings (available as a kit with tools)
*A good set of needle nose pliers and side cutters
*Possibly a pneumatic window tool
*Suction cups
*Pipe knife(basically a pipe that is smashed at one end to hold a blades for utility knife)
*liquid glass cleaner
*Extractor(very expensive, but pretty much the one tool for any glass)

== Safety ==
cunt

== Basic removal techniques ==
===Side window===
On some vehicles the side glass is bolted or clipped to the track assembly. On other vehicles there are rivets holding it in place. In either case, either remove bolts or clips or carefully drill out the rivets in order to remove a side window. Often the track assembly has an upper limiter which must be removed to allow removal of the side window. If you are working with an older vehicle and have no replacement glass to install, make a template out of masonite the same thickness as the glass. Bring your finished template into a glass shop and they will make you a replacement glass which you can install. Clean the window channel of all dirt and rust. Install new base tape and slowly work the glass into the channel. Keep the window vertical while tapping with an oak block and rubber mallet. Install new vertical channel tracks and replace the inner and outer weather strips for a sound-and-water-tight installation.
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== What to do after removal ==

After removal, the windshield and side windows should be stored in a safe place where they will not be damaged. If there is glue present on the windshield you may want to spend some time cleaning it off so it does not have to be done right before installation.

== Installing the new window ==

'''Windshield: Rubber seal type'''

You will need:
* A strong thin rope about about 15 feet long
* A helper
* A slippery substance like dish soap, but preferably KY jelly type lubricant which is water soluble and doesn't leave a sudsy mess when washed off. 
* A rag
* Water


# If the rubber seal has an insert strip, install it first.
# Fit the seal around the windshield.
# Wrap the rope tightly all the way around the groove of the rubber seal, making sure the rope ends overlap. Let the ends hang on the inside part of the windshield.
# Apply lubricant to inside part of the seal which will contact the window opening on the vehicle. Applying lubricant to the opening will help too. 
# Place the windshield on the opening of the vehicle. 
# Go inside the vehicle. You will be pulling on the rope. Before you pull, have the helper apply mild pressure to the area were you will be pulling on the rope.
# Pull the rope toward the center of the windshield. The seal should start slipping over the ledge and hug it. The helper should be applying mild pressure just ahead of you.
# Go all the way around until you've pulled out the entire length of the rope. 
# Wipe off lubricant with a dry rag, wash off the remainder with a wet rag.

*Do not store lubricant in your tool box. Your friends will not believe you when you explain what it's for.

Sometimes when pulling the rope the rubber does not pull inside the flange. The factory tool to pull the missed spot inside was made fron a std screwdriver. The flat portion was cut off then 1/4 inch ball was turned on the end. A 2 inch long taper was turned from the neck at the ball back towards the handle, then it was polished with fine sandpaper. The end was then heated and bent with about a 1 inch L leg. Use lube or a soap solution and work the ball end under the rubber and pull it out without tearing it.

== Installing flush mounted glass ==

 
You can install windshield glass in most any car that had a windshield frame or rubber molding using the S-10 filler strip and an adhesive as long as the pinch weld is behind the glass. Some prefer to use urethane or silicone instead of butyl tape due to the irregularities in the flange or pinchweld that backs up the windshield. 

The basic procedure is to get your pinchweld all cleaned up and any voids filled. If there were slots or notches for hinges etc they need to be filled. Obviously rust and loose paint needs to be removed. A coat of epoxy primer is a good idea. 
Have your glass cut so that you have about 1/4 gap between the edge of the glass and the windshield opening. No more than 17/64" and no less than 15/64" gap all around. Always trial fit the filler strip before you do the install to make sure it isn't too tight or loose. Too tight and the glass may crack or pop out during installation and too loose and you will have gaps.

You can paint a uniform band around the edge of the glass with Dow betaprime 5500 pinchweld primer. This material will create a dark band around the edge of the glass similar to the baked-on ceramic frit you see on most all of the newer cars. Mask off 1/2"to 3/4" uniformly around the edge so the glue line will look good from the outside. Mask off inside of the frit line so as to have a nice line to cut the setting adhesive to. Tape off the entire inside of the glass to protect it from scratching and excess glue. 

Position the glass so that it is flush with the body using at least 6 rubber setting blocks; 1 in each corner and 2 in the middle. You want the glass to sit evenly on these blocks. You can maintain your 1/4" gap with some scraps of filler-strip or wooden spacers, removing them as you install the strip. 

Once the windshield is positioned (Optional step): You can dry fit the filler-strip. You can make a butt joint in the middle of the strip at the bottom of the window. Try to not miter corners unless you absolutely have to because it is very hard to keep the edges down. The strip can be notched on the inside of a corner to make a tighter bend. Practice making corners on a scrap to see how it works. Once the strip has been dry fit you can install it permanently.  When you install the filler strip use super weather strip adhesive on at least one side of the strip.  Glue the ends with super glue. Once the filler strip is installed back fill the space behind the windshield with urethane adhesive, tool it so it looks nice and has no voids. You should have at least 3 full size tubes of adhesive ready for your install. Let it cure and you are done.

That is a fairly simple set of instructions, there may be other things that need to be considered such as what to do about your dash and header panel, etc. Is the windshield 2 pieces? this may require a center seam.
Most of the better glass shops will be able to get you the required supplies and may give you some better specific instructions for your particular application.

==Tips and tricks==
When removing a glued-in windshield, instead of trying force your windshield wire through the urethane try slicing first with a razor knife. The cheap "8 point" disposable type knives are what you want. Currently available in Wal-Mart with extra replacement blades for 89 cents. The blades are as good as any but the handles tend to self-destruct cutting windshields out. You'll want three or four packages. Or just use the blades and buy a higher quality knife elsewhere. These "boxcutter"type knives an blades are better than traditional "utility" knives for two reasons. First they are thinner and the blades more flexible. More forgiving for glass cutting. Secondly you get almost three inches of blade with a new one, offering more access to corners and low on the dash. On many Japanese cars and vehicles that have had their OEM windshield replaced once before you can often cut the entire glass out with such knives and never bother with wire.

After cutting out the windshield, a fresh blade in such a box cutter knife is ideal for leveling out the old sealer smoothly and evenly. PPG recommends that you don't remove all the old urethane sealer, just level and smooth it. This is printed on the label of their sealers. Or used to be. 

[[Category:Body and exterior]]