Editing TH400 rebuild tech

{{youcanedit}} =Rebuilding the T-400= ===Clearance in clutch packs:=== *Direct and forward clutch drums: .050 to .080 in each drum works well with 5 frictions Typically the thicker steel plates are used in the direct clutch drum. These can be mixed with thinner steels used in forward drum when setting clearance. Try to maintain thicker steels in the direct clutch drum. Thicker steels take the heat of shifting better. *Intermediate clutch pack: .040 to .060 clearance in the intermediate clutch with 3 frictions. Always use a thicker snap ring .095 - .100 to retain the pressure plate ==Shift modifications== *Valve body insert photos and instructions *Full manual shift modifications FULL manual shifts means just that. You must move the shifter for every shift up or down. NO Automatic shifts There are two steel governor fluid tubes out the rear of the main valve body. Remove these tubes. Plug the holes in v-body. 3/8 x 16 tap and set screws work. Use liquid thread locking chemical [[image:400v-body6.jpg]] A new hole in the proper place needs to be drilled (.110) to loop the governor fluid. Check photos here for location [[image:400v-body-7.JPG]] =Jakeshoe rebuild tech:= This post is meant to help those who wish to rebuild their own transmission, however it is not meant to replace a quality rebuild manual. I recommend using an ATSG rebuild manual, HP Books "How to Rebuild and Modify the TH400", and this post for those new to transmissions. I will be covering some modifications that are not usually required but good to do. After you have disassembled your trans and cleaned the mostly bare case, I recommend you change the shift shaft seal, kick down connector o-ring, and rear case bushing. Pictured here is a tool that allows removing the shift shaft seal without removal of the parking linkage. It is relatively inexpensive and can be used without pan removal (in the car). Be sure to lube the seal before re-installing, and take care not to cut it on the edges of the shifter shaft. If you do not have the tool or wish to buy it, now is DEFINITELY the time to change the seal, it requires removal of the linkage. You want to do this before you have the trans internals assembled. If you drop the "nail" in the case, or anything else, it is very frustrating later on to disassemble. [[file:Shift_seal_tool.jpg]] A universal cam bearing tool can be used to replace many bushings in the various automatics. It will not do very small bushings. Pictured here driving the bushing out towards the front. [[file:Rearbushingdriver.jpg]] A TH400 and 4L80-E used in heavy towing will sometimes cause the rear bushing to "walk" to the rear, ruining the governor gear. There is a "fix" bushing for this that has a thrust surface on the front that prevents the bushing from walking. Use a stock bushing, red loctite in place, and staked in place. If you plan on using a rear torrington type bearing you want to place the bushing ever so slightly protruding to the front, so that it will locate the bearing. I use a TH350 pump -direct drum bearing from a later style TH350. These can be ordered new (preferred). This torrington bearing replaces the stock thrust washer and rear selective tang washer in the TH400. Pictured here, bearing is on top: [[File:Rear-thrustcompare.jpg]] You set rear endplay using TH350 pump shims as pictured on the left here: [[file:Rear-thrustshim.jpg]] The total thickness of the bearing as compared to the thrust and selective is very close, it is usually about .150". [[file:Rear-bearing-measure.jpg]] It is best to adjust rear endplay on the tight side. On a Th400 (unless it has straight cut planetary gears) the planets will try to thrust load against the case bearing and the center support. I disassemble the rear output shaft from the output ring gear and clean and inspect the planets. Refer to manual for checking procedures and specs. It is shown here re-assembled with the reaction carrier and sun gear ready to be re-assembled. [[file:Rear_planets.jpg]] Slide the reaction carrier onto the rear planet assembly, drop in the sun gear, flat side toward the front of trans. Then slide the reaction tube in, shown to the rear: [[file:Reaction_tube.jpg]] It is best to have the center support already ready. The center support houses the intermediate apply piston, supports the direct drum. It has sealing rings that seal it to the direct drum, allowing it to transfer fluid to the drum to apply 3rd gear, and reverse. Disassemble, clean, and re-assemble using new lip seals. Pay attention to the orientation. Use the old lip seals to be sure you select the properly sized new seals. [[file:File:Center_support_rings.jpg]] Install the piston using a lip seal installed or feeler guage, be sure the piston depressions align with the depressions in the center support, and it helps to use a tilting motion as you install it sometimes. You can also use thin plastic (cut from a large plastic soda bottle) as a seal protector/installer or the proper Kent-Moore J-tools. Once the intermediate apply piston is installed and the return springs, guide, retainer plate and snap ring, you must install the center support to direct drum sealing rings. There are 3 choices here. Solid teflon is on the left, then scarf cut teflon, then cast-iron. [[file:Sealing_rings.jpg]] Cast iron is what most kits will contain, and what was used stock in most TH400's. Scarf cut teflon was used on later model Th400's. Solid teflon is used on 4L80's and is interchangeable. I prefer solid teflon, although it is the most time consuming type. Cast iron is the easiest and will work fine for most applications but if using any type of valve body that will not require a modulator teflon is best as it will prevent wear on the direct drum. If using teflon, be sure there are no burrs on the center support ring grooves. Installing the teflon rings requires a protector to prevent cutting or gouging them, and a sizing device. It helps to heat the rings in hot water before installing so that they will stretch easier. I use a piece of plastic (from a paint can cap) that is cut to size to install and size the rings. Leave it on until you are ready to install the direct drum. Notice I left one sealing ring off, 2nd from top groove. This groove seperates the direct (3rd gear) and reverse feeds from each other. When dual feeding the directs (as done in this build), this sealing ring is not necessary. Dual feeding the directs on a Th400 will be covered in more depth in another section. [[File:Center_support_rings.jpg]] [[Category:Transmission]] [[Category:good articles]]

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