Editing Rebuild an alternator

{{youcanedit}} ==Rebuild Your Alternator== These days alternators are getting more and more costly (up to several hundred dollars depending on your issue...) while intermediate rebuild kits are very inexpensive and once you've done it, very simple to do. Assuming the alternator didn't burn up electrically (windings melted down) these simple steps will net you a very reliable operating alternator and save you about $100 bucks in the process. If you plan to rebuild your alternator, some easy steps to a DIY project are below. == Removal and Clean up == * disconnect the vehicle battery, If you have a charger put it on charge during the rebuild. This will help to improve battery life and minimize the load on the fresh alternator after rebuilding. *Remove the alternator from the car *Get about 2 or 3 cans of gunk, go to the coin wash, spray it with the gunk, then let it soak 5 minutes... THEN set the wash to degrease, spray that for 5 minutes. Follow this with a rinse for 5 to 10 minutes. If available follow with a final rinse of distilled water to eliminate any chance of mineral salts causing issues down the road. Allow dry time OR better yet air blow dry.. == Disassembly == *Using a scribe witness mark the case halves so you can get them index properly when you re-assemble it. It can go 3 or 4 different ways. *Remove the through bolts so you can separate or halve the cases *Remove the brushes, brush holder/followers (depending on kit) *Remove the Rear Bearing, clean out the bearing cavity of any dirt or grease. *Remove the bush (depending on kit) *Remove the regulator and install the new one. Make sure that any grounds that may be used internally are clean shiny metal to assure good contact. *Remove the rectifier Diodes or diode assembly and install the new one(s). If you have to solder use good techniques, clean and shiny connections, using 60/40 lead/tin solder. If soldering the silicon diodes do not overheat the diodes, 7 seconds at soldering temps is a safe limit. Better yet use clips to sink the heat away from the diode body. *With a fine Emery or Crocus Cloth, Burnish the brush pickups or (Slip rings) on the rotor assembly until smooth and shiny. Emery dust is conductive so clean up your work when done. == Installation and Inspection == * Install your new bearing, but before you do, get a SMALL sharp punch and carefully put a dimple in the race each 1/3 rd the way around. One may use a dab (small dab) of epoxy to accomplish locking the bearing race. This will prevent the Bearing from EVER spinning in the race. It will be a tiny bit harder to put the cases back together, you might have to tap the halves with a rubber mallet. * Install the bushing. (depends on kit) Lubricate the bush as required. * Where the brushes are, at the rear end bell, there should be a small hole that goes through to them. Insert a #40 drill bit or heavy paper clip with the brushes fully compressed into their holder. This will hold them off the slip rings while you insert the rotor into the end bell. Remember to remove the paper clip or drill before reinstalling the battery or a short could occur while removing the drill or paper clip. * Before reassembling the end bells to the body, inspect the stator windings. You are looking to make sure there is no worn insulating paint, or glyptol. Also, where the windings terminate, check that there is no melted or splattered solder, and no cracked solder joints. If needed, Ohm the windings out, but... These usually last forever, and if they failed before, you'd know it... * Align the witness mark you scribed into the body during dis-assembly, install the end bells to the body and properly 'clock' it for your application. Be sure the end bells are straight, and (if needed) gently tap the bearing half end-bell with a mallet. Secure with the bolts. * Lastly, spin it up by hand, in both directions, and ensure it spins free and quiet. Inspect the front fan blade for damage, and reinstall on the car. * Check your wiring to assure correctness and reconnect the battery. Start the car and using a voltmeter check the voltage at the battery terminal. It should be above 13.6 - 14.0 volts with headlights on. [[Image:image03.jpg]] == Inspect the Hardware == If you notice white powder on the brackets or hardware, you have electrolysis going on there... (Mounts are aluminum and hardware/engine is steel... What were they thinking??) Remove and media or water blast them. If you are a "stickler" install a copper braid strap from a good ground on the alternator to a good ground on the engine block. This will assure good electrical performance and elimnate mounting brackets from being important to the electrical ground path. Get some electrical bonding paste for aluminum wire and coat the bolts and mounts, anywhere they touch steel... That should give you a much better unit than you can buy over the counter... That will probably out live the car... [[Category:Electrical]] [[Category:Engine]]

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