Editing Rust

==Notes==
*Rust encapsulators are common in the hotrodding industry. Some feel that they won't get rid of a problem, and may make it worse.
*Some people feel that minor surface rust of body panels is treatable, but everything else must be cut out and replaced with new metal.
*To remove surface rust, use naval jelly and steel wool.
#Work in small areas, not larger than a square foot.
#Apply jelly with 000 steel wool, rub it in, and allow it to set for a couple of minutes. Don't let it dry.
#Rub again with steel wool. Repeat a few times, and then clean the area. Dry it immediately.
*Body panels can be sand blasted. However, it must be done carefully. The pressure of the sand hitting the body panels causes warpage.
*There are so many different products and approaches for handling rust, that it can be mind-boggling for an average hotrodder.
*Body shop owners argue that professional body shops don't use POR-15 or similar rust "encapsulators" because they would have to re-do too much of their work. They also note that rust prevention products are primarily advertised in hobbyist mags, not in periodicals read by professionals in the paint and body industry. Furthermore, the lack of rust preventive products in non-hobbyist industries does appear suspect. For example, why don't ships at sea use POR-15?
*Can sandblasting "increase" rust? Or, if the rust is removed and the metal is sealed, shouldn't it never come back? Some thoughts on this are:
**It's caused by water in the air compressor line, as sand will harbor some moisture.
**Even high grade epoxes and finishes are not 100% impermeable to water and air.
*After preparing panels, coating them with epoxy primer is recommended.

==References==
*[http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/rust-what-acceptable-permanent-ways-get-rid-47303.html Acceptable ways to handle rust], ''Hotrodders Bulletin Board'', September 7, 2004.