Editing DynoSim combinations

{{needspics}}
If you want an accurate estimate, techinspector1 has said the following is needed:

'''DYNOSIM REQUIRED DATA'''
*Bore
*Stroke
*Rod Length
*Cylinder head flow, intake and exhaust 0.100" through 0.700" or whatever the mfg gives for range 
*Intake valve diameter
*Exhaust valve diameter
*Static compression ratio
*CFM, type of induction (2-bbl, 4-bbl, TBI, TPI)
*Intake manifold type, mfg (single 4-bbl, two 4-bbl, one 2-bbl, three 2-bbl, individual runner Weber, mechanical fuel injection, low-rise, high-rise, tunnel ram, dual-plane, single-plane, part no. if you have it.
*Exhaust system (be specific, primary tube size if long-tube headers).
*Camshaft
**Part number, grind number.
**Type (flat, roller, solid, hyd.).
**Intake valve lift, exhaust valve lift.
**Timing info and at what tappet lift the info is valid, i.e. 0.006", 0.050", etc. 


==='''The following will show horsepower and torque results using different combinations of parts'''===

OK, first things first. I have to agree that the DynoSim results sometimes seem optimistic, but consider this. The software is configured with the premise that the hard parts will be tweaked by the builder, the build dimensions will be blueprinted to the loose side and the final tuning will be spot-on. There's an old saying in hot rodderdom, "Loose is fast". 

And when I run a sim, I change things around considerably to get to the final figures. It will take me an hour or better to do it properly on just one motor. You may have seen, sometimes I will include verbage like "tried 6 different cams, retarded 'em, advanced em', 3 different manifolds, 4 different static compression ratios, etc." Just changing the cam requires runnin it straight up, advancing 2 degrees, then 4 degrees, then retarding it 2 degrees, then 4 degrees. So I have 5 different sets of figures just for 1 cam. Do that with 6 different cams and you have 30 sets of numbers.....just for the cam. 

Now, multiply that times different manifolds, different static compression ratios, etc. and you can see where it is a time-consuming task to sim a motor. But that's who I am. If I can't do it right, I won't do it at all. You can rest assured that when I post a sim, the motor has been tweaked to within an inch of its life. It's as good as it's gonna get with the parts used. Use different parts and you will get a lesser result. Anyway, that's probably why some fellows question my numbers, because they've never done what I've done with the software. Most people don't have the time or patience to do it the way I do, but I'm retired, have the time and patience and like nothing better than to start with a clean sheet of paper and "build" a motor. 

I have checked the results I get against real dyno pulls and this DynoSim has shown to be within 2% of real. Not bad in my opinion. I'm seriously considering upgrading to DynoSim5 and an add-on cam file. I have 800 cam files now, but the add-on would give me 6000 files. I was dragged kicking and screaming into the computer age, but I'll tell you, there's nothing any more fun than dinkin' on this thing. Well.....there was that time in New Orleans, but that's a whole 'nuther story...



'''355 Gen I Chevy street motor, budget build....
 
*Block: '68-'86 Chevy 350 Gen I bored +0.030". Check main bearing bore for round and parallel, align-hone or align-bore, as *necessary to line up the bores and insure they are ROUND. Once the mains are valid, register the block on the main saddle and cut *the block decks to square the block up and set the squish where you want it. I don't want to hear any carpin' about the cost of *cuttin' on the block. If you can't afford to do this stuff, take up another hobby.  
*Crank: Stock 350, 3.48" stroke, 2.450" main journal diameter. 
*Rods: Stock 350 5.7". Recommend ARP bolts, re-size big end. Here is a set of GM rods that have been worked over. Looks like a *pretty good deal to me, probably would cost less than having your shop re-do your rods....
*http://www.competitionproducts.com/Custom-Rebuilt-GM-Rod-Chev-350-LJ/productinfo/804335/
*Scat makes a dandy set of 5.700" forged rods that are affordable....
*http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-25700P/
*Pistons: Keith Black hypereutectic, part #KB193, 12cc D-cup, 5/64,5/64,3/16 rings. 1.561" compression height. Gap top ring 0.026", second ring 0.018".
*http://www.kb-silvolite.com/kb_car/performance.php?action=details&P_id=155 
*Heads: RHS Pro Torquer Vortec (part number 12410), 2.02" intake, 1.60" exhaust.
*http://www.competitionproducts.com/RHS-ProTorker-Vortec-Cast-Iron-Head-170cc_64cc-Bare-Each/productinfo/RHS12410/
*These heads will accept either conventional or Vortec type intake manifolds. They are drilled and tapped for both types. 
*Intake manifold: Dual-plane, high-rise such as the Edelbrock RPM #7101, Weiand Stealth #8016, Holley 300-36 or Professional *Products Typhoon. Check ebay and craigslist for used manifolds if your budget is tight. 
*Carburetor: Vacuum secondaries 750 CFM.
*Headers: 1 3/4" primaries, long-tube, equal-length. Install "X" pipe between collectors and mufflers. Run 2 1/2" pipe to the rear *through mufflers of your choice. 
*Camshaft: CompCams flat tappet hydraulic 260H: [http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=72&sb=0], installed *straight up. 
*Rocker Arms: 1.6 ratio on both intake and exhaust. 
*Static Compression Ratio: 9.6:1
*Dynamic Compression Ratio: 8.4:1
*Squish: 0.035" to 0.045". Zero piston deck height with 0.035" to 0.045" head gasket or 0.010" to 0.020" piston deck height with *Victor Reinz #5746 head gasket that compresses to 0.025". 

:'''RPM HP TQ'''
*1000 59 310
*1500 103 361
*2000 150 395
*2500 192 402
*3000 246 431
*3500 306 459
*4000 360 473
*4500 407 475
*5000 442 464
*5500 453 433
*6000 450 394
Stock converter and stock rear gear will work, but would be more fun with a converter that stalls at 2000 to 2200 rpm's and a 3.73 gear. 


'''383 Gen I street motor. 485 hp, 496 ft-lbs torque.'''

OK, staying with the RHS heads, but using the Pro Action 180's and reducing the advertised flow by 5% to get closer to real, flow used for this build on a 383 will be as follows:

:'''LIFT INT EXH
*.100 70 55
*.200 143 96
*.300 197 149
*.400 231 168
*.500 245 177
*.600 250 181
*.700 257 185

*We'll bore a 350 block +0.030" and use a 3.750" stroke crank and 5.7" rods. Scat makes a cast STEEL crank and capscrew I-beam rods that will work here. If you want to use a 4.040" or 4.060" bore, that's OK too. 4.060" will make a 388 motor. 
*Heads: Racing Head Service Pro Action 180, 72cc chambers, 2.02" intake, 1.60" exhaust. 
*Pistons: Keith Black hypereutectic #KB134, 7cc flat-top, 5/64/5/64/3/16 rings, 1.433 compression height. 
*Intake manifold: Dual-plane, high-rise such as the Edelbrock RPM, Weiand Stealth or Professional Products Typhoon.
*Carburetor: Vacuum secondaries 850.
*Headers: 1 3/4" primaries, long-tube, equal-length. Install "X" pipe between collectors and mufflers. Run 2 1/2" to 2 3/4" pipe to the rear through mufflers of your choice. 
*Camshaft: Compcams hydraulic flat tappet, installed 2 degrees retarded: [http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=79&sb=0].
*Rocker arms: 1.6, lift at valve 0.512".
*Static compression ratio: 10.0:1.
*Dynamic compression ratio: 8.2:1.

:'''RPM HP TQ'''
*2000 148 389
*2500 188 395
*3000 242 423
*3500 307 461
*4000 370 485
*4500 425 496
*5000 465 488
*5500 485 462
*6000 481 421


'''383, 505 hp, 500 ft-lbs torque. Same motor as above with solid, flat tappet cam: [http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=238&sb=0], 1.5 rockers.'''

:'''RPM HP TQ'''
*2000 145 382
*2500 185 390
*3000 239 418
*3500 303 455
*4000 370 485
*4500 427 500
*5000 466 490
*5500 493 471
*6000 505 441
*6500 481 389



'''355, L31 heads, flat tappet hydraulic cam, stock rail rockers, some head work for better springs.'''

In this build, I would be interested in spending the least amount of money as suggested by the OP. In that vein, I would use stock rail rockers. Lift is under a half inch, so I would think the rr would be OK. Since I'm not sure that all locks locate the valve tip the same, relative to the top of the retainer, I would welcome input from others about using a (-0.050") lock (that's what's listed above.) to insure the valve tip sticks up far enough above the retainer so that the retainer top surface doesn't get loaded by the side rails of the rail rockers.

*Bore the block 0.030", use these or other 12cc pistons w/5.7 rods: [http://www.kb-silvolite.com/test/kb_car/performance.php?action=details&P_id=155].
*Makes 9.6:1 static compression ratio. Cut block decks to zero and use a 0.040" head gasket. 
*Use XE274H Comp cam (Cam card: [http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=87&sb=0]), installed at straight up.
*Comp 981 valve springs/ 750-16 retainers/ 630-16 keepers and stock 1.5 rail rockers. 1.250" springs should be OK because the cam is a moderate grind, hydraulic flat tappet.
*Narrow the O.D. of the guides to less than the I.D. of the damper spring and cut for PC-type positive seals.
*Cut top of guide for 0.550" play from bottom of retainer to top of *guide seal. Pin the pressed-in rocker studs with this kit: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-806G?autofilter=1&part=MRG-806G&N=700+4294746236+115&autoview=sku].
*Performance Distributors 12720 HEI, custom curved: [http://www.performancedistributors.com/gmssdui.htm]
*Edelbrock RPM Vortec intake mounting a 750 vacuum secondary carb of your choice. Edelbrock, Rochester 5 psi max at the inlet, Holley *6 psi max at the inlet.
*Performer RPM Vortec w/natural finish: #7116, w/EnduraShine finish: #71164, w/polished finish: #71161 '''-OR-''' 
*Look for a used manifold on craigslist to save a few shekels. 
*Long-tube 1 5/8" headers with X or H pipe right after the collectors, 2 1/2"/2 3/4" pipes to the rear through mufflers of your choice.
*Use 2500 stall converter, shorter rear gears. 
  
:'''RPM HP TQ'''
*2000 138 364
*2500 176 369
*3000 224 392
*3500 281 421
*4000 331 435
*4500 370 432
*5000 402 422
*5500 405 386
*6000 375 328
**Peak dynamic compression ratio 8.16:1 on KB's calculator.
**Peak volumetric efficiency 97.2% @5000
**Peak BMEP 184.5 @4000





'''350 WITH TWO FOUR BARRELS'''
*KB106-030 pistons, flat-top, 7cc's, 1.561" CH: [http://www.kb-silvolite.com/kb_car/...php?action=comp]
*Edelbrock E-Street heads, #5073, 185cc intake runners, 70cc chambers: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-5073/], 9.53:1 SCR. Published flow was factored by 0.95 for this exercise.
*High leak-down rate flat tappet hyd lifters such as Crane 99377-16 Hi Intensity Hydraulic Lifters because we are going to use "too much" cam for the SCR. These lifters will reduce duration by 6-10 degrees under 3000 rpm's for better bottom end torque figures. 
*Crane Saturday Night Special #110591 flat tappet hyd cam: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-110591/], installed 2 degrees retarded.
*With pistons at 1.561", rods at 5.703" and crank radius at 1.740", the stack measures 9.004", so with a nominal 9.025" block deck height, you would need to make a cut of 0.021" to get to zero deck. 
*A 0.040" compressed gasket would then put the squish at 0.040".
*1 5/8" long tube headers.
*Edelbrock 2-4 RPM intake manifold mounting two 500's. 

:'''RPM HP TQ'''
*2000 145 381
*2500 184 387
*3000 229 401
*3500 284 427
*4000 337 445
*4500 378 441
*5000 409 429
*5500 420 402
*6000 400 349
**Peak volumetric efficiency 92.1% @5000
**Peak BMEP 187.8 @4000
**This motor should be waaaaaay fun with a 4-speed or auto with a loose converter.



'''This would be my recipe for a street/strip truck motor.'''
*400 block bored 0.030" and zero decked to the piston crowns, align honed main bearing bore.
*Scat #9-400-3750-5700 cast steel Pro Comp crankshaft: [http://www.race-mart.com/Scat_Manuf...-3750-5700.html].
*Scat Forged I-beam 5.7" rods: [http://www.race-mart.com/Scat_Manuf...2-ICR5700P.html].
*Keith Black #UEM-KB168-030 hypereutectic pistons 22cc dish to make 9.8:1 static compression ratio with 64cc heads: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-KB168-030].
*CompCams #CCA-12-430-8 retro-fit hydraulic roller cam installed 2 degrees retarded: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-430-8/].
*Howard's retro-fit hydraulic roller lifters: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-91164N/].
*CompCams #CCA-200 thrust button: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-200/].
*CompCams #CCA-201 wear plate: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-201/].
*Edelbrock #EDL-7101 RPM intake manifold: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7101/].
*Dart Iron Eagle Platinum 215 cast iron heads #DRT-10521123P: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DRT-10521123P/] (price shown is for one head).
*Barry Grant Speed Demon 750: [http://www.amazon.com/Barry-Grant-1...r/dp/B000CIN32M] (BG is now defunct, so a similar carb would be substituted).
*Jegs air filter base: [http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/5003...roductId=751908] Run a hose from the base to your PCV valve.
*Jegs air filter lid: [http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/5003...roductId=751908].
*14" x 4" paper element: [http://www.shopping.com/Allstar-ALL...4hO3SNWw==/info]. Snag the correct length stud and a wing nut from your local Ace Hardware.
*Hedman Elite headers, 1 3/4" primaries: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-69088].

:'''RPM HP TQ'''
*2000 154 405
*2500 195 410
*3000 250 438
*3500 319 479
*4000 386 507
*4500 446 521
*5000 486 511
*5500 511 488
*6000 515 451
*6500 490 396
L31 Vortec heads need a lot of work to get them to the point that you can make any power with them and use enough cam to make that power and it will take a lot of money. Start off with the correct heads to do the job in the first place. I did manage to make 450 hp and 482 ft/lbs of torque with a set on a 406, but that's a long ways from the 515/521 made with the "correct for the application" Dart heads.

Use 16 degrees ignition lead at the crank and put another 18 degrees in at the distributor weights for a total of 34. If the motor needs a little more total, move the lead at the crank to 18 degrees. You will not need some Super-Slick, Double-Throwdown ignition system. A rebuilt GM HEI will work nicely. Roller lifters are heavy and will limit the RPM's to just over 6000 anyway, so you don't need fire above that anyway. 

Run a nylon or copper line from the carburetor inlet back to the firewall and up past the hood lip to the cowl of the truck. On the cowl, temporarily mount a mechanical fuel pressure gauge (0-15 psi) so that you can view it through the windshield as you drive. Regulate fuel pressure down to 5-5 1/2 psi. If you have too much fuel pressure, it will blow past the needle and seat in the bowl and into the intake manifold as raw fuel. This will cause you untold tuning nightmares, so get this under control first thing. DO NOT TAKE ANYBODY'S WORD FOR THE AMOUNT OF PRESSURE THEIR PUMP PUTS OUT. MONITOR THE GAUGE AND CHECK IT YOURSELF OR SUFFER THE CONSEQUENCES.

The 400 block will require that you drill steam holes in the heads. Any manufacturer you buy from will drill them for you before they ship the heads to you. Install the heads with a head gasket that is designed for installation on a 400 block because the gaskets will also have steam holes in them from the manufacturer. Here is the procedure in the event you want to know how to do it: [http://www.gregsengine.com/converti...ads-to-400.html].

Use a composition gasket that compresses to 0.039" to 0.041". With the zero deck of the block, this will put the piston crown at 0.039" to 0.041" from the underside of the cylinder head with the piston at TDC. This establishes your "squish" dimension at 0.039" to 0.041", which will optimize the motor for detonation-free operation on pump gas.



'''Here's one I put together for a nice little street cruiser motor running on cheapo pump gas.'''
I might be thinkin':
*375-400 horsepower, 425+ lbs/ft of torque with 9.0:1 static compression ratio.
*Stock converter
*Mild cam (204-212 intake duration @0.050", 110 LSA)
*RPM intake
*750 carb
*1 5/8" long-tube headers 
*3.50 rear gear. 
Just a real nice cruiser. 

I really, really like these heads. They're inexpensive and they '''''work'''''. 
*This is for one bare head: [http://www.competitionproducts.com/...tinfo/RHS12407/].
*Then buy one valve kit (fills 2 heads): [http://www.competitionproducts.com/...oductinfo/8511/].
*One guide plate kit (fills 2 heads): [http://www.competitionproducts.com/...ctinfo/42151-8/].
*And one rocker stud kit (fills 2 heads): [http://www.competitionproducts.com/...tinfo/134-7101/].
*Here's the cam (installed retarded 2 degrees): [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-110315-10/], 
'''-OR-'''
[http://www.competitionproducts.com/...info/110315-10/].
*And here are the roller lifters: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-91164N/],
'''-OR-'''
[http://www.competitionproducts.com/...ductinfo/91164/].
*Use a Howards composite distributor gear (will outlast a bronze gear 3 to 1): [http://www.competitionproducts.com/...ductinfo/94402/].

:'''RPM HP TQ'''
*2000 148 390
*2500 188 395
*3000 238 417
*3500 292 439
*4000 342 449
*4500 379 442
*5000 401 421
*5500 400 382
*6000 355 310


I took this directly from a response on a thread where a rodder wanted to use a 400 block and L31 heads....
I would advise against max hp in favor of building for max torque in the 3,500 rpm range. L31 heads on a 406 will not lend themselves to high hp, so I would use them where they fit best, low rpm torque. I'd use Keith Black hypers, #KB168-030, hung on Scat Pro Stock 5.7" rods. These rods are clearanced for the cam right out of the box. Minimum clearancing may be necessary at the pan rail for the big end of the rods.
 
*http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-25700P/

6.0 rods get up into the oil ring land and I do not advise more complexity and more things to go wrong than you need in an engine build like this, particularly for a beginner. With nominal +/- 66cc heads (production heads usually pour larger than published data), these pistons, with a 22cc D-cup will produce 9.6:1 static compression ratio. An added benefit is the tall 1.433" compression height, meaning less block deck to cut off to reach a target squish of 0.035" to 0.045".

*http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-KB168-030/

Machining operations to the block, besides the boring and honing to +0.030 oversize, will include align honing the main bearing bores and cutting the block decks to square and to the proper block deck height to work with the piston deck height and gasket thickness to set the squish. Stock block deck height is +/- 9.025". The height of your stack of parts will be 1.875" for the crank throw radius, 5.700" for the connecting rod center to center and 1.433" for the piston compression height, for a total of 9.008". If we use a gasket thickness of 0.039"/0.040", then we will have to cut the block decks 0.017" to reach a zero deck. This will put the squish at 0.039" or 0.040", depending on the head gasket used. Decking the block will also insure that the block decks on all four corners of the block are the same distance from the main bearing centerline, meaning that static compression ratio will be closer to equal across all cylinders and will also contribute to the heads and intake manifold lining up and sealing the way they're supposed to. Thinner shim head gaskets used to be available for the 400, but not any longer. Some fellows have used 350 shims and drilled them for steam holes, but the bore of the gasket is iffy with the larger 400 bore. If you get any of that thin shim out into the cylinder/chamber at all and it glows hot, it could be a potential trouble spot for pre-ignition/detonation. Better to use a composition gasket that is engineered for the purpose and cut the decks accordingly. Speaking of steam holes, the heads will have to be drilled for them. Here's the tutorial....

*http://www.gregsengine.com/converting-350-heads-to-400.html

I'm going to waver from my usual roller tappet song and dance here and suggest a low-cost hydraulic flat tappet cam because we're going to use the stock L31 valve springs and retainers. Our rpm limit with this motor will be 5000, so we don't need to do any changes to the heads except maybe replacing the seals, unless of course if you want to pony up 60 bucks for fresh springs. Chevrolet says if you want to keep some safety margin (total of 0.050" between the 5 coils), then you should limit valve lift to 0.430". We can move into the margin a little with this low rpm motor and use a cam with 0.450" lift if we need to. I would advise against the use of an extreme energy type cam and also against the use of rockers in excess of 1.5:1 ratio in this build. 

Crane has a cam that uses easy ramps and will fall right into the static compression ratio range we will use in this motor. #10017 has an operating range of 1800-5400. Here's the 100172 kit which includes lifters. Always buy your lifters with the camshaft....that way you know they were produced by the camshaft grinder, not some fosdick Chinese outfit....

*http://www.amazon.com/Crane-100172-...r/dp/B000CIRW8I
*http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-100172/

Crane's description says the cam needs a 2500 converter, but with the amount of torque we're gonna produce down low, I'd be thinkin' stock converter and a 3.50 gear. The lobe separation angle of 106 degrees will give us the bottom end bias we need and the 0.450" theoretical lift will work with our stock springs and retainers. Be sure to use feeler gauges between the spring coils at full valve lift to insure that the springs don't stack solid. In theory, they shouldn't, but theory doesn't always agree with reality. Use 16-18 degrees of ignition lead at the crank with an additional amount at the weights to bring the total initial and centrifugal to 34 degrees. That's all you need with these heads. You need more at the crank than you would with a stock cam though, for the motor to idle properly. We need to bring the idle down for use with a stock converter so we don't have to stand on the brake pedal at stoplights. 

OK, we have a long block. Now, let's bolt on an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold and top it off with a rebuilt Edelbrock Thunder series AVS 650 CFM, manual choke carburetor #1805. Also get the Edelbrock choke cable #8013.

*http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive...c/thunder.shtml

Mount a 14" x 4" air filter on top. Stack two 14 x 2's if you can't find a 4" thick element. This motor needs to breathe. Speaking of that, bolt on a pair of equal-length, long-tube 1 3/4" headers and fashion either an X or an H pipe right after the collectors. Mufflers of your choice, but run the pipes to the rear of the car. Nothing is more "trailer park" than terminating the pipes under the car  . 

*RPM HP TQ
*1500 122 426
*2000 174 457
*2500 217 457
*3000 268 470
*3500 315 475
*4000 354 465
*4500 380 441
*5000 373 392
*5500 326 311
There you have it boys and girls, a tire-shredding motor with a "flat-as-a-table" torque curve and a cam that will have a slightly rough idle so the OP can pose cool down at the Sonic Drive-In.

The OP should read this tutorial over as many times as it takes to make good sense of it and understand completely what it says......
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/...tips_and_tricks


*Cheapo to build, cheap gas 350 street motor....
*These pistons

*http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-KB142-030/

*This cam

*http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-CL112011-11/

*L31 heads from a boneyard, casting # 12558062 or 10239906. Magnflux 'em for cracks. Fit new STOCK springs and seals. Make certain seals are *fully seated on the guide boss by tapping them with a socket and small hammer. The stock springs will work well with the mild cam and will *not pull the rocker studs out of the heads. Doesn't matter whether the heads have hard inserts in the exhaust or induction hardened seats, *either way will work. Same casting, both styles flow the same. Give 'em a good valve job and otherwise leave 'em alone. Use the rail rockers *that came on the heads stock. 

*Align-hone the main bearing bores in the block and cut the block decks for 9.015" block deck height, referenced off the main bearing bore so *that you know the block deck height is equal on all four corners. This will insure that the heads sit level and flat on the deck and that *the intake manifold will sit square to the heads with no gaps to cause an internal or external vacuum leak. Use GM head gasket #10105117. *Static compression ratio will be 9.1:1 and squish will be 0.042". Use Edelbrock #7116 Performer RPM intake manifold. 600 carb is all you'll *need. 

*Makes 365 hp @ 5000 rpm's with a double torque peak of 420 ft/lbs @3500 and 4000. Should make this power on crummy cat-pea pump gas without *detonation and make a real nice daily driver motor. 

*Cam begins making power at 1200, so it's your call whether or not you need a looser converter. If I did anything at all with this combo, it *would be a mild 2000 stall unit just so I didn't have to contend with the car creeping at stoplights and also to get up into the 1500 rpm *low range of the intake manifold when the light turns green.







[[Category:Engine]]