Editing Vacuum brake bleeder set up

{{needspics}}
I have tried pressure power bleeders and they can be quite a mess.  Brake fluid hurts very bad when you get it in your eyes and will take paint off.  Having it pressurized isn't my idea of a fun time.  Having brake fluid under vacuum is much more idiot proof.

What you need:
-Vacuum pump
-Glass jar with lid
-Clear tubing
-Brass fittings
-All this should cost around $20

==Vacuum Pump==

You can get inexpensive venturi (need an air compressor to operate) vacuum pumps made for AC work from Harbor Freight.  The one I have is just like the first link but is red and had a R12 fitting on it.  The vacuum fitting is 1/8-NPT on the other side.

[http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html Harbor Freight vacuum pump]

==Glass Jar==

I used an old spaghetti sauce jar, drilled some holes in the lid and put some brass fittings in it.  I needed to use washers to get a tight seal.

Jar and lid with fittings
http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e24/Triaged/Misc/?action=view&current=IMG_0490a.jpg

Underside of jar lid with fittings
http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e24/Triaged/Misc/?action=view&current=IMG_0492a.jpg

Jar assembled ready for vacuum bleeding
http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e24/Triaged/Misc/?action=view&current=IMG_0494a.jpg

==Fittings==

I used 3 male 1/4-NPT x 1/8 barb fittings, 1 female 1/4-NPT x 1/8 barb fitting, 1 female 1/4-NPT x 1/8-NPT coupler, and 1 female 1/4-NPT 90° fitting.  I also put a ball valve on the pressure input side.  The valve is needed to control the vacuum.

==Note==

This might not be 'recommended' by the auto manufacturers, but I have successfully used engine vacuum instead of a pump.  No compressor or pump is required, just the jar and some hoses.

Make sure to connect directly to intake manifold vacuum (below carburetor or throttle body), do NOT go through any valves,solenoids, etc. that may be damaged if brake fluid enters them (although the jar should prevent that.)

If you do get brake fluid past the jar and into the engine, a little bit won't hurt, just STAY AWAY from the exhaust pipe! Burning brake fluid STINKS!!!

Not recommended for Diesels, because they have a vacuum pump, normally with a rubber diaphragm. Brake fluid could damage it.

==Use==

Hook up a hose from the brake bleeder to the fitting on the jar with the short piece of hose inside the jar.  Hook the other fitting on the jar to the vacuum pump.  Hook up the vacuum pump to your compressor.  I used a ball valve on the compressor side to throttle down the amount of vacuum.

There are a few issues with vacuum bleeding.  First is sucking air around the bleeder valve threads.  The solution is to use Teflon (PTFE) tape or Teflon thread sealer on the threads.  If some air leaks past the threads this isn't much of an issue as long as mostly brake fluid is in the bleeder hose.  Throttling down the vacuum pump also helps.

Be sure to keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir as it will go down quickly.  If you are flushing out old brake fluid use a turkey baster (that will never be used on food again) to remove the old brake fluid from the reservoir.  Refill it with fresh fluid and start bleeding.

I didn't have much luck with either Teflon tape, or sealer, seems that movement of the bleeder valve disrupts the seal. I used silicone grease that would move with the valve, due to the use of Dot 5 brake fluid. Maybe lithium would work with Dot 3 fluid. With the 3/8" vacuum hose I was using, I had to carefully regulate the vacuum source to keep from over running the 3/16" brake line, and causing more air in the suction line.
[[Category:Brakes]]

==Alternatively==

Leave the engine bay alone, go to an auto parts store and buy a hand-operated pump *with* all these fittings or online from Amazon.com: $30 made of plastic resin, $35 for the brass version.

[[Pressure Brake Bleeder Set Up]]

Good post, if using manifold vacuum do make sure you are using manifold vacuum at the sourcing port and not ported vacuum.  Mechanics that don’t know the difference; probably shouldn’t be messing with this anyway.  If using the manifold for bleeding brakes means the engine is running which is not always safe or efficient, this also mean if on lift you are moving car up and down or using a ladder which is just silly.  

When flat stalling and doing the fronts and the car is on stands, you open the door to start or pump the brakes etc…., you can tweak the frame, especially true on older Plymouths, and GM F-Bodies.  I lost count of how many cars I have seen with binding drivers doors, not caused by weak door pins, but by bent frame because of failed previous repairs.

Tp seal the jar if you make a jar as you describe use a mason jar.  The lid removes, easier to drill and seal the fittings and comes with a gasket.

The biggest problem most mechanics make is forgetting to take the top of the master cylinder.  You don’t have to take all the way off, just open the top and loosely set back down.  This is also true of the caps the screw off.  Setting the top or tops back on loosely keeps dirt from getting in fluid.

Another easy way to bleed is use clear tube from pet (fish) section.  The clear vinyl will snug fit over the tip of the bleeder, you can see the bubbles, and use a horse syringe, 30 – 100 cc.  They are disposable.  The pet section also have the petcock valves designed to go into the clear vinyl.  Its all cheap and disposable.  

You can also remove the vacuum reservoir from a salvage car and us this as a source, clear tubing, petcock and charge this with manifold vacuum when you start, then shut off engine.  This way you have portable vacuum without having to keep engine running.

Always bleed farthest from master first.  The master is typically on the driver side (left side) firewall so you would bleed in following order: Passenger (Right) Rear, then Driver (Left) Rear, Stop, come to front, refill Master, then bleed Passenger (Right) Front and then Driver (Left) Front.  At conclusion check fluid level, button up tires, torque spec the lug nuts, drop the car, and check pedal position and travel and then test drive.  

For rear drums you will need to reset star adjuster prior to road test, this is easy by driving in reverse and lightly stabbing the brakes.  This lets the star adjuster set the proper distance between the shoe facings and the drum.  

I like using the hand vac because it has other uses in diagnosing other vacuum operated items, but I do use a jar like you mentioned.  The "jar" that comes with the hand vac is small and plastic and gets filty after constant use.  Using a mason jar, I can save the top I made and get a new jar and locking ring when it gets too dirty, or breaks.