Editing Removing stuck fasteners

[[Image:Mr-T-1.jpg|center]] ==Summary== A list of techniques for removing rusted or broken bolts, nuts, screws, and fasteners. ==Smack it with a hammer== Though this may not be practical for all situations, a stuck bolt can often be broken loose simply by hitting it on the head with a hammer. In such a case, a brass drift may be helpful. Drifts of varying lengths can be made from brass bar, and used to access hidden bolts. Brass is used because it's softer, and thus less likely to damage the head of a fastener. Brass hammers are also available and one about 3 or 4 lbs. in weight is good for this. ==Smack it with a hammer method #2== This method is useful when dealing with a bolt that is rusted very tightly. A lot of people will get a wrench or ratchet and push against it with a steady force. Doing this will more than likely break off the bolt head of a rusty bolt. The best thing to do is to get a wrench or ratchet on it, and either hit it with your hand or a hammer several times. The sudden force will break the bolt loose with less of a chance of twisting off the head. ==The hot and cold method== This method uses alternating heating and cooling. The resulting expansion and contraction is thought to break a fastener loose from the grip of rust. ==Metric Method== Hammer a close-fitting metric socket tightly on a SAE nut, or vice-versa. ==Hot and Cold== #With a welding torch, a hand-held propane torch, or a combination MAPP gas/oxygen torch kit, heat up a bolt head until it turns red. #While it's still red-hot, squirt it with water. #Repeat the heating and cooling process again with the torch and water. When using the "Hot and Cold Method" be sure to follow proper safety procedures. Specifically: *Wear proper safety attire including welder's gloves and safety goggles. *As with any time you use any flammable ignition sources, have a fire extinguisher within arm's reach. ==The heat and paraffin wax method== #Heat the bolt with a torch. #Touch the threads with paraffin wax. Ensure that the bolt is situated such that the wax will run down into the mating threads. #Remove the bolt. ==The weld-on-a-larger-nut method== #Place a close-fitting washer over the top of the bolt to protect surrounding material. #Take a nut that is larger than the actual thread of the broken bolt, and weld it to the broken bolt. #Weld in short bursts until the weld fills the nut. This will heat the bolt but not the surrounding material. Use a 6011 welding rod. This has been reported to work well. #Let the welded nut cool completely without using any water or spray. The bolt will contract and break the grip of the rust. ==Penetrating and lubricating oils== Penetrating oil is an extremely low-viscosity oil that can penetrate into the area between threads on a fastener. A stuck fastener is often heated, sprayed with penetrating oil, and then tapped with a hammer. Some penetrating oils that are recommended by hotrodders: *[http://pbblaster.com/store/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=1 PB Blaster] *[http://kanolabs.com Kroil] *[http://www.wd40.com WD-40] *[http://www.armorholdings.com/productsdiv/break_free.asp Break Free] *Liquid Wrench ==Special tools== *Flameless heat tool useful for removing rusted or broken fasteners: [http://www.theinductor.com/ The Inductor]. *Left-handed drill bits, or screw extractors, can be used to remove many fasteners. *For stubborn nuts, try a nut splitter. It will crack the nut without damaging the bolt inside. *An impact driver can be used to loosen frozen nuts or bolts. Hand-held impact drivers typically have slotted and Phillips headed bits, as well as a socket fitting. The bit or socket is placed on the stuck fastener, and the other end of the impact driver is struck with a hammer. The impact of the hammer strike loosens the fastener, the downward force keeps the bit in its place, and the impact driver turns the force of the hammer strike into a sudden torque on the stuck fastener. *When all else fails, get a set of: [http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&pid=00952166000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Bolt-Out%2C+Taps+%26+Dies&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes Craftsman 10 pc. Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set, Low Profile Bolt-Out Sears item #00952166000]. They are useful for when the bolt head is rounded off, or there is no room to beat a socket or wrench on to it, or when a torch is not available. *Another good brand of bolt extractor is Extractor, has a little bit more "bite" than the Craftsman and Irwin ones ==Tips for broken-off bolt heads== *If enough of the bolt remains, try to grab it with locking pliers or a pipe wrench. *Try to saw a groove in it, so that a flat-head screwdriver can be used to turn it. *Take a 12-point socket that is just larger than the shaft of the bolt, and beat it down onto the bolt with a hammer. Turn it out with a ratchet. When finished, put the socket in a vice, and tap out the broken bolt. *If a bolt is broken off below the surface, build it up with a welder until there is enough to which to weld a nut. If this brakes off try it again, this method is the best, the heat and cool cycle of the tig weld will loosen the fastener in the stuck piece. ==Miscellaneous tips== *Weld a piece of metal to the top of the bolt, to use as leverage when loosening. *If the slot of a round-headed screw is stripped, file two flat edges in it. Then, it can be turned with an adjustable wrench. Or, use a hacksaw to file a new slot at a right angle to the existing one. *Six-point sockets will grip better on hex nuts and bolts than 12-point fasteners. *Drill and tap the bolt to run another, smaller bolt down the center. A bit about half the diameter of the headless, stuck bolt is usually sufficient. Use a jam nut on the small bolt and lots of penetrating oil. *If it is a stripped screw, either slotted or Phillips, try using a dab of valve grinding compound on the tip of the screwdriver. The valve grinding compound will help with friction to hold the tip onto the fastener when turning. Use a piece of tubing that fits in the bolt hole (OD) with the center (ID) the size of the drill bit. This will keep the drill bit centered in the bolt, when you use the EZ out. ==References== *[http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-33-a-75849.html Tip of the day #33], ''Hotrodders Bulletin Board'', December 10, 2005. *[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penetrating_oil Penetrating oil], ''Wikipedia'', retrieved July 15, 2006. *[http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/stuckbolt.htm Stuck Bolts], ''ChevyTrucks.org'', retrieved July 16, 2006. *[http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/tooluse.htm Removing Stuck Fasteners] ''PumaRacing.co.uk'', retrieved July 16, 2006. *[http://www.rd.com/content/openContent.do?contentId=17889 Loosening Stubborn Nuts, Bolts, and Screws] ''Reader's Digest'', retrieved July 21, 2006. {{youcanedit}}

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