Editing Installing Mustang II IFS spindles

Let me start by saying that I could have just as well entitled this article "How not to install Mustang II Spindles".  Now having said that, the first thing one should do is 1) layout all the parts.  How do you know you have all the parts?  Hopefully the supplier provided you a diagram.  You can also run in the house and get on the internet and go to "http://www.classicperform.com/instructions.htm".  As a major component supplier they have the diagrams available online for free.

2) Note that there is a left and right spindle.  If you can't figure it out by comparing to the diagram, note that there is an "L" typically cast on the left spindle.  If the other spindle does not contain a letter casting, then you have a right spindle....otherwise you may have two left spindles.  By now your thinking this article should have been labeled, "Installing Spindles for Dummies".  Forgive me but I think it's always better to have too much information rather than not enough.

3) Having segregated the left from the right, let's move on to a closer observation of the spindle.  Are they the spindles you ordered?  Did you order drops or standards?  Don't trust shipping information, look up part number and compare to pictures.  Again the internet is full of good information.  As a matter of fact, "hotrodders.com" is loaded with viewer journals containing pictures of numerous setups.

4) OK, so you've got what you ordered?  Was it manufactured to specifications?  Check measurements, distances, diameters, etc....and compare the left to the right....Are they the same?

5) How about spacers....You may or may not have them and you may not even find them on the diagram, but spacers may be required between the castle nuts and the ball joint shafts.  If you have spacers (typically four), compare them to each other...Did you find that two were thicker than the other two?  If so, note that they likely go on the bottom ball joint shaft.

6)  How about taper on the ball joint shaft?  You should have taper on the spindle arms that match the ball joint shafts.  You can measure the diameter of shaft hole on each side and if there is taper, there will be a difference in the diameter.  My understanding is that the taper is 7 degrees, which on my spindles translated into a shaft hole diameter difference of 1/8inch.  A great tip that I will pass on from "powerroddermike" is that if you encounter problems with spindle fit, you can check the taper match between the ball joint shaft and the spindle arm holes by spray painting the shafts, setting the spindle in place, rotating the spindle, removing the spindle, and checking for a consistent scraping off of paint.  You can skip this test unless you discover problems.

7)  Ok, so all the parts are there and by observation and inspection appear to be correct.  

8)  This is likely a mock build, but go ahead and grease the ball joints.

9)  Now we're ready to mount the spindle on the shaft.  I recommend this being a mock build, leave the rubber cups off, until you confirm a good fit.

10) Now set the spindle on the lower A arm ball joint shaft, then proceed to lowering the upper A arm ball joint shaft until it is aligned properly over the spindle shaft hole, gently pressing down for fit.

11)  Install the thicker spacer on the bottom shaft, followed by a castlenut.

12)  Install the thinner spacer on the upper shaft, followed by a castlenut.

13)  Now some will say only hand tighten for the mock build.  I like to complete the tightening to insure cotter pin fit.  

14)  DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.  You only need to tighten sufficiently to slide the cotter pin through the castlenut hole. And, assuming the cotter pin holes were drilled the right distance and the spacers are the appropriate thickness, the spindle should rotate easily and the castlenuts are snug.