Editing How to title a hot rod

{{Youcanedit}} ==What is this page?== The purpose of this page is to collectively answer the question: ''"How can I properly title my hot rod?"'' This page is created using a group-editing process known as "wiki". '''You can edit this page right now'''. Simply click the "edit" tab at the top of this page, or any of the "edit" links on the right-hand side of the page. For more information on editing, see [[Help:Editing]]. You don't need to register or login to edit this page, although, if you want, you can create an account on the [[Special:Userlogin]] page. Creating an account will give you certain privileges that unregistered users don't have. ===Background Information=== The question: "How can I properly title my hot rod" is frequently asked on hot rod and custom car bulletin boards. This page was created in response to a specific request to formally cover this issue, in [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/title-how-knowledge-base-91052.html a discussion on the Hotrodders Bulletin Board]. ==Summary== The steps necessary to obtain a valid title for a hot rod vary greatly from country to country, and between states, provinces, and other sub-national entities. Current local legislation, model year of vehicle, vehicle construction, and many other factors also come into play. As the written letter of the law varies from one region to another, so does the way it is handled on a day-to-day basis. Thus, an understanding of the local legal code must be coupled with knowledge of the experiences of local hotrodders. To fully answer this question, we'll need to include the relevant legal code from each state, province, region, or country, as well as information from local hotrodders on the vagaries of enforcement at the local level. Bear in mind that, ultimately, individual hotrodders will have to deal with their local DMV, which abides by the written regulations, rather than what's available on the internet. One thing to keep in mind when trying to register and title streetrods is......and this is probably the most important thing of all......Attitude is everything......keep a good attitude and be polite.......if things are not going your way don't get pushy, it will only work against you. Keep in mind the folks at the DMV deal with some real nuts and they could be in a bad mood when you get there....just play it cool....diplomacy and tact goes a long way. It would be wise to consider that some states qualify that if a vehicle is modified beyond a point from the original car then it is no longer the original car. If you, for example, you register your 1930 Model A that was basically a body placed on a whole new modern chassis with the original 1930 title you are violating the laws on titling. Then you register this vehicle with this title, the car is now illegally registered. The insurance you get will require the car to be legally registered and now they have an out for not having to pay off if you have an accident. ===Where can information be obtained?=== Here's a collection of ideas on where information on properly titling hot rods can potentially be obtained: *Local government and law enforcement agencies **police, Department of Motor Vehicles *Websites of local Departments of Motor Vehicles, Departments of Transportation, or their regional equivalents. *Local citizens or automotive clubs *Businesses that obtain titles for people ===You Can Edit the List Below=== Below is a listing of 50 US states, as well as several additional countries. To add information about titling a hot rod, simply click the "edit" link to the right-hand side of any state or country name. ==50 US States== ===Alabama=== ===Alaska=== ===Arizona=== ===Arkansas=== Agency 006.05 REGULATION 1993-3 BONDED TITLE REGULATION Pursuant to authority given the Commissioner of Revenues by subsection (b) of section 20 of Act 142 of 1949 (Ark. Code Ann. §27-14-403 (b)), after the effective date of this regulation, corporate surety bonds, certificates of deposit with assignment and irrevocable letters of credit which meet the requirements of this regulation may be accepted under those circumstances where a bond is authorized under the provisions of subsection (c) of section 1 of Act 1013 of 1993 [Ark. Code Ann. §§27-14-409 (c)]. (1) ˜˜Definitions: (A) “Bond” means any corporate surety bond, certificate of deposit or irrevocable letter of credit approved by the Commissioner and given for the purpose of indemnifying any prior owner or lien holder and any subsequent purchaser of a vehicle, or person acquiring any security interest in it, and their respective successors in interest, heirs, or assigns, against any expense, loss or damage, including reasonable attorney’s fees, by reason of the issuance of the certificate of title to the vehicle or on account of any defect in or undisclosed security interest upon the right, title and interest of the applicant in and to the vehicle. (B) “Bonded Title” means a certificate of title to a vehicle issued upon the condition that a bond is filed with the Commissioner of Revenues pursuant to Act 1013 of 1993 [Ark. Cod Ann. §§27-14-409 (c)]. (C) “Insurer” means any person with a valid certificate of authority, issued by the Arkansas Insurance Commissioner which certificate grants the authority to become surety on contacts in the State of Arkansas, or any other guarantor approved by the Commissioner of Revenues. (D) “Vehicle” means any vehicle of a type required to be registered and titled in Arkansas, and which is in the possession of and legally controlled by the applicant for bonded title. This definition shall specifically exclude the following: (i) Vehicles issued a junking certificate, or similarly branded certificate of title, as referenced in subsection (c) of section 2. of Act 614 of 1993; (ii) Vehilces for which a person holds a storage or mechanic’s lien under the provisions of Act 1000 of 1993, [Arkansas Code Annotated §27- 50-1201, et. seq.], or Arkansas Code Annotated §18-45-201, et. seq.; (iii) Stolen vehicles; (iv) Vehicles involved in ownership litigation. (E) “Statement of fact” means a form prescribed by the Commissioner, to be completed by the applicant for bonded title and filed with the Commissioner prior to the filing of a bond, so that a determination can be made as to the eligibility of the applicant for issuance of a bonded title. (F) “Letter of approval” means a letter issued by the Commissioner to the applicant for bonded title granting approval to file a bond and apply for registration and issuance of a bonded title, and establishing the amount of the bond to be filed. (2) After the effective date of this regulation, any bond filed pursuant to Act 1013 of 1993 [Ark. Code Ann. §§27-14-409 (c)] must guarantee payment, for a period of three (3) years from its effective date, to any prior owner or lienholder and any subsequent purchaser of a vehicle, or person acquiring any security interest in it, and their respective successors in interest, heirs or assigns against any expense, loss or damage, including reasonable attorney’s fees, by reason of the issuance of the certificate of title to the vehicle or an account of any defect in or undisclosed security interest upon the right, title and interest of the applicant in and to the vehicle. (3) A bond filed pursuant to Act 1013 of 1993 [Ark. Code Ann. §§27-14-409 (c)] shall not be accepted unless it is a corporate surety bond, certificate of deposit with assignment, or an irrevocable letter of credit filed with the Commissioner within thirty (30) days from its effective date, for an amount equal to one and one half (1 ½) times the value of the vehicle as determined by the Commissioner, and meets the following requirements: (A) “Corporate Surety Bond”: A corporate surety bond shall: (i) be on forms approved by the Commissioner; (ii) be issued by an insurer; (iii) be irrevocable for a period three (3) years; (iv) be signed by the vehicle owner (applicant for bonded title to a vehicle), and payable to the State of Arkansas upon presentation of a judgment issued by a court of competent jurisdiction as a result of the issuance of a bonded title; (v) be signed by the insurer or its licensed agent or broker with power of attorney to act on behalf of the insurer and countersigned as otherwise required by law; (vi) be delivered to the Commissioner, and accompanied by: (a) an application for registration and issuance of a certificate of title to the vehicle signed by the vehicle owner; (b) a letter from the Commissioner granting authorization to apply for a bonded title; (c) the original power of attorney of the person executing on the behalf on the insurer, if applicable; (d) any additional documentation otherwise necessary to comply with specific statutory requirements for registration and issuance of a certificate of title to a vehicle; (e) the payment of all requisite fees and taxes for the registration and issuance of a certificate of title to a vehicle. (B) “Certificate of Deposit with Assignment”: (i) The certificate of deposit and assignment shall both be on forms approved by the Commissioner. (ii) The certificate of deposit shall: (a) be signed by the assignor; (b) be issued by a bank or savings and loan: (c) be irrevocable for a period three (3) years. (iii) The assignment shall: (a) be signed by the assignor; (b) be acknowledged by the financial institution; (c) contain an irrevocable appointment of the Commissioner which allows him to endorse the certificate of deposit and apply the proceeds to any and all valid claims against the bonded title, as determined by a court of competent jurisdiction; (d) provide the assignment of the certificate of deposit is to be held by the Commissioner for a period of three (3) years from the date of delivery to the Commissioner. (iv) The certificate of deposit and assignment shall be delivered to the Commissioner, and accompanied by: (a) an application for registration and issuance of a certificate of title to the vehicle signed by the vehicle owner; (b) a letter from the Commissioner granting authorization to apply for a bonded title; (c) any additional documentation otherwise necessary to comply with specific statutory requirements for registration and issuance of a certificate of title to a vehicle; (d) the payment of all requisite fees and taxes for the registration and issuance of a certificate of title to a vehicle. (C) “Irrevocable Letter of Credit”: An irrevocable letter of credit shall: (i) be in a form as prescribed by the Commissioner; (ii) be issued by a bank or savings and loan; (iii) be an irrevocable letter of credit; (iv) be titled or conspicuously state that it is an irrevocable letter of credit; (v) state that it may be drawn against to satisfy any judgment issued by a court of competent jurisdiction as a result of the issuance of a bonded title; (vi) state that any draft drawn by the Commissioner against the letter of credit is payable upon presentation of a judgment issued by a court of competent jurisdiction as a result of the issuance of a bonded title; (vii) be irrevocable for a period of three (3) years from the date it is delivered to the Commissioner; (viii) be delivered to the Commissioner, and accompanied by:5 (a) an application for registration and issuance of a certificate of title to the vehicle signed by the vehicle owner; (b) a letter from the Commissioner granting authorization to apply for a bonded title; (c) any additional documentation otherwise necessary to comply with specific statutory requirements for registration and issuance of a certificate of title to a vehicle; (d) the payment of all requisite fees and taxes for the registration and issuance of a certificate of title to a vehicle. (4) Procedure for applying for issuance of a bonded title: When a bonded title transaction is received by a State Revenue Office, the transaction should be examined to ensure that: (A) The corporate surety bond, certificate of deposit with assignment or irrevocable letter of credit has been issued for an amount equal to or exceeding the amount determined by the Department. (B) The bond is effective for a period of three (3) years from the date of issuance. (C) The application for bonded title has been made within 30 days from the effective date of the bond. (D) An application presented more than 30 days after the effective date of the bond shall not be accepted. (E) The vehicle description (year, make, model, vehicle identification number, body style) reflected on the application matches the vehicle description reflected on the bond. Executed this 23 rd day of July, 1993. Jim Pledger, Director Arkansas Department of Finance and Administration Tim Leathers Commissioner of Revenues Arkansas Department of Finance and Administration ( * [http://www.arkansas.gov/dfa/motor_vehicle/forms/10-345.pdf Bonded Title Info] ===California=== I have an old chevy and couldn't find the numbers anywhere. To avoid all the problems that come with registration, I simply stamped the number off of my engine on the frame.... Called a policeman I knew and had him varify the number. Took it to DMV '''Bold text'''and the registration went right through. You have to be very careful with the titling of an unregistered car in California. If you make the mistake of putting a late model engine in an older car and make the mistake of telling the DMV that you have a '85 engine in your '37 Chevy/Ford, etc, they will make you put all of the smog equipment for a '85 model car on your old car. I have had two friends get caught in this trap, one guy told the examiner that the engine was a '95 Chevy...OOP's, he had to put everything that was required for a '95 Chevy on his '37 Ford. The best thing to do is get the legal paper work straightened out before you ever do any work on the car, then file a non-op on the car, when you get it running you send in proof of insurance and the renewal fees. No questions, no inspections, no hasel....blusdn Also you can find a "vehicle verifyer", usually at a dealership. Ask for the title/licensing desk, or talk to the used car manager. He will usually help if you grease the skids ($100 bill). All he needs is the paperwork. Ask the title desk what they need. Or if you wish to get technical get a copy of the California vehicle code. I did, read it and was ARMED. ===Colorado=== [http://www.state.co.us/gov_dir/leg_dir/olls/sl2003a/sl_31.pdf Bonded Title Info] ===Connecticut=== ===Delaware=== ===Florida=== ===Georgia=== In Georgia you can contact the DMV or go to their web page get a form then request that a DMV officer come out to your location and inspect the vehicle. At that time they will issue you a vin number and tag the car with that vin embosed on a metal tag. With that and the insurance go to the tag office. The form needed is T-22B I believe the cost is 50 beans ===Hawaii=== ===Idaho=== ===Illinois=== [http://www.cyberdriveillinois.com/departments/vehicles/title_registration/apply_custom_rod.html Illinois DMV Info] [http://www.cyberdriveillinois.com/publications/pdf_publications/rtopr2615.pdf Bonded Title Info] ===Indiana=== '''No Title, Missing VIN Tag and Purchased Vehicle Out of State.''' Any documentation you can get of the vehicle is important especially a Bill of Sale. You can use Indiana Bill of Sale State form #44237 @ www.in.gov/bmv/forms or make your own stating as much information as possible about the vehicle, purchase price and the seller information. Both seller and buyer sign and date the form. A police officer will have to inspect the vehicle. Provide him with all the documentation you have and indicate you have no VIN tag. He will fill out a Physical Inspection of an Indiana Resident's Vehicle Form stating no VIN tag or Plate number/State. If you have a VIN number they will verify through a IDACS/NCIC check to make sure the vehicle isn't stolen. Once completed you take this form and your Bill of Sale and any other information about the vehicle with you to your Indiana BMV and apply for a new VIN number which will be mailed to you. Once you recieve the new VIN number, have a legible tag made by a local trophy shop with the new number and affix it to the vehicle in or about the original location of the VIN tag. Once completed a Police officer again will have to come out and verify all documentation, new tag location and charge $5.00 for the Physical Inspection form he signs stating everything is in order. The last step in this process is to return to the BMV will all your documentation and apply for Certificate of Title. At this point you will pay your sales tax from your Bill of Sale form and a fee for Title Application. Once completed your New Vehicle Title will be mailed in 4-6 weeks. ===Iowa=== [http://www.iamvd.com/ovs/title.htm Iowa Bonded Title] [http://www.iamvd.com/ovs/abandoned.htm Iowa abandoned vehicle questions & answers] ===Kansas=== ===Kentucky=== ===Louisiana=== ===Maine=== ===Maryland=== ===Massachusetts=== ===Michigan=== Michigan has a process for titleing an owner built vehicle, which is what many hot rods are. You are required to have reciepts from major components of the vehicle (body, frame, engine, etc.) and get the application from the Secretary of State office. The vehicle will be inspected by an officer of the law (you can pick which police agency you go to) and must comply with a standard set of rules such as lights, turn signals, etc. Emission certification is not required. However, many choose to go with an original title for the modified car. This is much simpler as no inspection is required. Historic license plates are available from the state with 10 year renewal cycle. ===Minnesota=== ===Mississippi=== ===Missouri=== ===Montana=== '''Titling a Vehicle with No VIN Number or Title (Homemade Hot Rod)''' This example is based on my experience trying to title a vehicle that comprised of an old body with no VIN numbers on it, mounted to a custom-made frame with no VIN numbers on it. This article is a stub, as I am in the middle of the procedure. As harrowing as dealing with the DMV can be, try to be patient - this particular request is not common in the State of Montana, as I have found out. Remember, this particular example is used for vehicles that have ''NO VIN AND NO TITLE''. '''Step One''' First, familiarize yourself with the [http://www.doj.mt.gov/driving/vehicletitleregistration.asp Montana Vehicle Title and Registration Website], as you may need to refer to it from time to time when speaking with representatives at the DMV. Download form [http://www.doj.mt.gov/driving/forms.asp#vehicletitleregistration MV20 (Vehicle/Vessel/OHV Identification Number Inspection Certificate)] in .pdf format and fill out in the appropriate areas. You will then call your local Police or Sheriff's Department, and state that you need to have a vehicle inspected. They will dispatch an officer to your location. When the officer arrives, provide them with any paperwork you have or statements regarding the ownership of the vehicle. Basically, the officer is there to ensure that the vehicle you intend to title is indeed the same vehicle he is observing. Because your vehicle has no VIN, the officer should leave the VIN areas blank, ''but make a notation that the vehicle has no identifying numbers or markings on the frame or body.'' '''Step Two''' Now that you have an inspection certificate filled out by the proper authorities, you must determine what your car's value is: If the value is over $500, you must secure a bond equal to the value determined by the surety company. A simple phone call to your car insurance agent, asking him how to obtain a "Surety Bond" for your car. This is another interesting twist to the process, as you will be required to give a VIN number to obtain a Surety Bond. Tell your agent that you have no identifying marks on the vehicle and that the procedure to obtain a VIN requires a Surety Bond be issued before processing the paperwork. You will get a paper bond issued within a few days. Surety Bonds are usually required to be paid up-front and will last 3 years. If the vehicle is worth $500 or less, you simply certify to its value. You must either: reference the average trade-in or wholesale value determined by the national appraisal guide as of January 1 for the year in which you are applying, or if an appraisal guide is not available, certify that, to your knowledge, its value is $500 or less. Be honest, because you'd hate to have your paperwork all jammed up because you tried to fudge your value. '''Step Three''' Download form [http://www.doj.mt.gov/driving/forms.asp#vehicletitleregistration MV10 (Affidavit/Application for Title With Insufficient Evidence of Ownership or Bonded Certificate of Title)] and [http://www.doj.mt.gov/driving/forms/mv10b.pdf MV10b (Application for State Assigned Identification Numbers)] in .pdf format and fill out in the appropriate areas. Why both forms? The MV10 is the application for the'' title'' of your vehicle that has no ownership evidence. MV10b is the application for the actual ''VIN number''. You'll need to fill them out both. Don't forget your $5 payment included with form MV10b. Once you've filled out the above two forms, gather them up along with your inspection certificate (Form MV20) and your Surety Bond (if you need one) - and make photocopies of everything. Put all the originals in an envelope to the Title and Registration Bureau address on the forms, and mail it away. '''Step Four''' In about one to two week, you will receive a VIN number foil sticker in the mail. '''Do not apply this sticker yourself.''' Follow the instructions in the enclosed envelope to bring your vehicle to the nearest Driver's License Inspection Station in your area. I highly suggest calling to confirm the location of where you need to bring your vehicle. ''Be sure to speak with the inspector and familiarize him with your vehicle.'' Making an appointment wouldn't hurt either. If everyone is on the same page with what you are trying to do with your vehicle, the easier it will be to achieve your goal. I will post the results of my inspection and installation of VIN number soon. After the inspection and application of the VIN number the only Step remaining is to license the vehicle. '''Step Five''' Forthcoming. ===Nebraska=== ===Nevada=== ===New Hampshire=== ===New Jersey=== Call the title department of the NJ MVS. Any car significantly modified beyond original must be titled as a new car. There a special rules to make titling easy for custom vehicals and you must get a safety inspection. A significantly modified vehicle must be titled with a new title in the year it was finished. The car can not be titled with what matches the original body. So a 1931 model A coupe with a 61 chevy engine, a mustang II front end and a Jag rear can not be titled as a 1931 Model A. It is no longer the original car, it is a new one off car. A car that is not legally titled is also not legally registered. A car that is not legally registered and not legally titled is not insurable. The insureance company may decide they do not want to pay for your accident and use the fact the car is not legal as the reason to not pay. Sorry I can not report more, I was inquiring about getting a legal title for a historic vehicle and got sidetracked. Feel free to call the NJ MVS title division to confirm the above facts. I called the NJMVS and requested their titling/registration package for what they describe as a "specialty vehicle". A lot of red tape, but bottom line is that you need to document entire build with corresponding costs...They want to see how much you paid for everything so that they can charge sales tax, just like if you purchased a new vehicle off of the lot. If you have sales receipts for parts that the tax was already paid, that I guess would be exempt. As I get further into this, I'll post update or revise as necessary. ===New Mexico=== ===New York=== Titiling here is fairly simple, as there are no titles for motor vehicles 1972, and prior. The rules are less strict than other states, but the basics of basics. If you have a reproduction body, and it came with an MSO, you can stamp the MSO vin onto the frame, then get a trace of the new vin, take it to the motor vehicle's with a couple of forms that they can give you, have somebody else fill them out, and sign them, fill the bill of sale out as though they sold the vehicle to you, and after all is said, and done you will get a 30 day non transferrable registration which after 30 days turns into a transferrable. There is no police verification necessary. There are more correct ways of titling as a home built vehicle, but this way is quicker. The same process goes for 1972, and prior motor vehicles that have a lost registration, only use the vehicles vin number. ===North Carolina=== If you have a VIN, but no title, you can get a Surety Bond from some insurance agencies and then apply for a title. This states that if there is no challenge to that title for a year, it is yours. This is used for abandoned vehicles. There is also a form for lost titles, that can be signed and submitted, but if the title has not been active for ten years or so, you have to call NCDMV in Raleigh and have them manually put the VIN back into the computer. There is also a form for hand made vehicles that will require you to show reciepts for every component, and keep a log showing your work. This will allow you to apply for a new title. I have not done that. They don't seem to be very strict about modifications, and titles and licences are handled by private subcontractors, who have no incentive to obstruct you. If you change the number of doors or something, you will have to modify the title. I dont know the proceedure on that. There is no space for color, for example, and even school busses and campers are registered and insured as trucks. Real RV's may be different. Here is the link to NC DOT: http://www.ncdot.org/dmv/vehicle_services/registrationtitling/howToRegister.html This the link to a 10Mb pdf file with the NC Vehicle Regulations: http://www.ncdot.org/dmv/vehicle_services/registrationtitling/titlemanual/ This is an excerpt from it: SECTION 1 Chapter 7 – Page 6 SPECIAL TITLES Requirements For Titling Custom-Built Vehicles CUSTOM-BUILT MOTOR VEHICLES G.S. 20-39, 53 A custom built vehicle is completely reconstructed or assembled from new or used parts. The vehicle will be registered showing the make as Custom-Built, and the year the vehicle was built will be the designated year model. The North Carolina title will be branded “Reconstructed.” 1. Application for title, Form MVR-1, completed in full and signed before a notary. 2. Affidavit for Custom Built Vehicle, Form MVR-55 (notarized statement explaining how the vehicle was assembled from new and used parts.) 3. Inspector’s report 4. Odometer reading is required 5. Furnish certificate of title or MCO for the frame, engine and transmission as proof of ownership or file an indemnity bond. 6. Title fee of $40.00 7. 3% highway use tax based on the total bills of sale for the entire purchase of new and used parts and labor. ===North Dakota=== ===Ohio=== Okay, I'll start this one off. Here is the official info from the Ohio State Patrol's website. I'm sure there will many who will comment on their experiences with the following, and what they have done besides. Here is a link to the guidelines for what Ohio terms "Salvage and Self-Assembled Vehicles" http://www.statepatrol.ohio.gov/forms/salvage.pdf By the way, the patrol officer at the Seville post who handles inspections seems quite knowledgable and enthusiastic about the hobby. Although there is an inspection of the completed car, they seem to concentrate more on the paperwork and documentation ensuring that parts are from a documented source. And don't be even a minute late for your inspection. I have been told by the OSP via phone conversations the car is required to have fenders, windshield wipers with washers, seat belts, tail lights, headlights, turn signals, horn, and mufflers. The OSP officer states that fenders are many times removed by owners after inspection without comment from the OSP. ===Oklahoma=== ===Oregon=== Getting a Title in Oregon is not too big of a deal,, IF EVERYTHING is in order,, KEEP all your recipts,,if you are building the car from the ground up,, if you have No documention for ownership of the car , you need these recipts, They will check places where vin # are hidden by the factory,, on the frame,, [actually Chevrolet didn't have VIN # untill 1950, but used a thin piece of metal with a series # placed under the drivers floor carpet,, first thing to rot away,,] if no # are visble, they will check to make sure that the frame is origional to the vehicle, [ not after market] if its aftermarket,, you need a recipt, same with a aftermarket body,, Recipt,, point of origin, bill of sale, then they will enter this infromation into their computer base and if its clear,, you will be issued a form to take to DMV to get a sticker with a new VIN #, then you need to stamp those #'s somewhere on the frame, so if the vehicle is ever stolen,, you can identify where its stamped so they will know where to look, even if the #;s are ground off, they can still find them , If you are trying to register a car from another state,, they just look for the vin # and verify it with the title you are presenting, they do a much better search of these #'s UPDATE>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> according to who you have to deal with at a DMV,, getting past them can be a real pain I T A,,, after getting the ok from the state Police who issued the cirtificate for a vin #, I went to the DMV,, expecting a normal transaction ,,they handed me 5 pages of forms to fill out ,, wanting to know how I came to own the car, all the recipts, pictures,I Did that ,, then back to the DMV,, got a different person,, 3 more pages of forms,, did that... then They wanted copys of EVERY recipt I had,, probably 500 pages, finally after some talking , I convinced the guy that the state Police had already seen all these recipts and that if its good enough for them it should be good enough for the DMV,, so he settled for copys of the major components,, engine Tranny rear end, etc etc, then he issued a vin sticker,, and you have to have the car there so THEY can apply the sticker,, then they issue you a 90 day trip permit,, so a special commitee can review everything,, but I don't expect a problem from them,, Now that it has started to rain,, at least it can be driven,, The whole Idea is to document the car as much as possable,, like PICTURES of the build process,, keep EVERY Recipt you get, and lots of patience and luck,, REMEMBER they are there to make sure this vehicle isn't STOLEN,, and will do everything to find out if it is,, ===Pennsylvania=== ===Rhode Island=== ===South Carolina=== ===South Dakota=== ===Tennessee=== ===Texas=== Texas Bonded Title Info I may miss a step or 2 but the process goes something like this if it hasn't been titled in the last 16 years,, which is how far back the state's records are kept. You'll need a bill of sale and the following forms from the state. VTR-275 Request for Texas Motor Vehicle Information You'll need a bill of sale, and will probably need the following forms: VTR-275 Request for Texas Motor Vehicle Information VTR-301 Request for Pencil Tracing of Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) VTR-34-F Certified Copy of Title Fact Sheet VTR-130-SOF Statement of Fact VTR-131 Request to Issue Negotiable Certificate of Title Without Registration (Title Only) VTR-275, Fill this one out and mail it in with the fee of $2.30. This starts the title search with the state, if it hasn't been titled in the last 16 years you will receive a rejection letter. In the meantime you have to take the vehicle to 2 auto dealers for a written appraisal of it's value. At this time you'll need to complete VTR-301 Be sure to have your bill of sale available. Call any dealership near your locale; the appraisal in most cases is a free service to the public. Accompaning the rejection letter from the Texas Dept. of Transportation is an Insurance company list where you will go to and purchase a surety bond. The fee is 1.5% of the value of the vehicle. Fill out form 130, Statement of Fact, then along with all the other paperwork gathered from the above sequence, take it to your county tax office, and in turn they provide you with the bonded title. The bonded title is for 3 years; at the end of the 3rd year you can exchange the bonded title for a permanent one. Texas Vehicle Title and Registration FAQs And Popular Related Links Texas Vehicle Title and Registration Forms: http://www.dot.state.tx.us/vtr/vtrreginfo.htm?pg=form1 Lawrence Auto Title: Commercial Bonded Title Business http://www.lawrenceautotitle.com/continue.htm ===Utah=== ===Vermont=== ===Virginia=== ===Washington=== To start with one needs to visit the DOL website.. http://www.dol.wa.gov/cars.htm When building a hotrod or replica car I have found it vital to keep a file with all of the reciepts for materials and parts as well as any titles of parts cars that may have been purchased. When substantially complete the car must be taken to a State Patrol inspection station and if the paperwork is in order then a new title can be issued. Note in Washington State ownership (having title) does not mean the car can be driven as the State has a provision for title purposes only. Emissions is a seperate agency and has its own set of rules. ===West Virginia=== ===Wisconsin=== ====Summary==== Wisconsin's hot rod community was the first in the nation to successfully pressure their state government for regulations governing modified or homemade vehicles. These regulations have gone on to become a template for SEMA's model legislation and the regulations adopted in many other states across the nation. Wisconsin's "Hobby Plate" celebrated its 30th anniversary in 2006 and the regulations have been improved and updated numerous times since they were first passed in 1976. (See Street Rodder, Primedia Specialty Group Inc., August 2006, pp 66-68). While Wisconson is something of a success story in terms of its laws, that does not mean the state is without its problems. Many rodders still encounter difficulty with their local or state DMV offices, primarily because state employees are not properly trained and informed of the Hobby Plate. In additon, the Wisconsin State Patrol has been found to be improperly trained and knowledgable about the state's own regulations. Wisconsin offers lifetime, non-expiring, non-personalized hobbyist license plates to ''replicas'', ''street-modified'' vehicles, and ''reconstructed'' vehicles, all of which must be at least 20 years old, or replicas of a vehicle that is at least 20 years old. These regulations are different from ''collector'' registrations, which are available for vehicles that haven't been altered or modified. Different regulations apply to different classifications of vehicles. Generally, a ''street modified'' vehicle would be what is typically known as a hot rod or street rod, and it's specified as a vehicle that "can still be recognized as the original year and make". A ''reconstructed'' vehicle is one that is "no longer recognizable as the original vehicle". Registration for ''reconstructed'' vehicles requires bills of sale for all major parts used in the vehicle, as well as an inspection by a Wisconsin State Patrol Officer. A fourth, less common specification, ''motorized homemade vehicle'', is designated as a vehicle that "must have been constructed from new or used parts not originating from or resembling a previously manufactured motor vehicle". ''Motorized homemade vehicles'' also require inspection by a Wisconsin State Patrol Officer prior to registration. ==== Specific Details ==== ===== Hobby vehicles which already have a VIN ===== Wisconsin offers lifetime, non-expiring, non-personalized hobbyist license plates in the following categories: a)Reconstructed Vehicle b)Motorized homemade vehicle c)Street Modified Vehicle d)Replica Vehicle A) RECONSTRUCTED VEHICLES are defined as follows: * Vehicle must be constructed from a vehicle at least 20 years old. * Vehicle must no longer be recognizable as the original vehicle. * Vehicle must be inspected by a Wisconsin State Patrol Officer. * Application materials must include bills of sale for all major parts Reconstructed vehicles normally refer to a salvage (junked) vehicle which has been reconstructed but the original title was declared "salvaged". These vehicles must meet the safety standards which applied in the year the vehicle was originally built. Because of their unique nature (having a "salvaged title") most hot rods will NOT be titled under this category. Some rodders also avoid this category because of the required state safety inspection. B) MOTORIZED HOMEMADE VEHICLES are defined as follows: * Homemade motor vehicles, other than motorcycles, qualify for Hobbyist plates. * Vehicle must have been constructed from new or used parts not originating from or resembling a previously manufactured motor vehicle. * Homemade motorcycles that replicate a cycle at least 20 years old. * Vehicle must be inspected by a Wisconsin State Patrol Officer. The Homemade Vehicle category is the most difficult of all the categories because it requires that the vehicle pass the safety requirements for the year the vehicle was COMPLETED - not the year it might replicate or mimic. For example, if the car was completed in 2006, it would have to meet the exact same safety and pollution standards as a 2006 Lexus. Most rodders avoid this category like the plague. C) STREET MODIFIED VEHICLES are defined as follows: * Vehicle must be at least 20 years old. * Vehicle may be modified from the original manufacturer's specifications. * Vehicle can still be recognized as the original year and make. * Vehicles are typically known as "hot rods" or "street rods." By its very definition, this is the category most hot rods fit into. In order to title a vehicle in this category the owner must file [http://www.dot.wisconsin.gov/drivers/forms/mv2855.pdf form MV2855]. This is a surprisingly simple PDF form which designates the VIN, year, model and weight of the car along with your name and address. Most notably this form also serves as a "self affirmation" that the vehicle meets all applicable state safety requirements. In the case of Street Modified and Replica vehicles, the applicable safety requirements are those that were in effect IN THE YEAR THE VEHICLE WAS ORIGINALLY CONSTRUCTED. Thus, if you have a 1932 Ford, you must meet the safety requires that were in effect in 1932. There is no state safety inspection required for vehicles in this category. It should be noted, however, that state or local police CAN cite you for safety violations if they should stop you and determine you are not in compliance. In the event this happens, the owner needs to be intimately familiar with the state code governing these vehicles. In order to title the vehicle the owner should take the original title for the vehicle along with a completed form MV2855 to the local DMV office where they will also fill out form MV-1 which is the standard "Title/License Plate Application". Street Modified vehicles qualify for either a normal licence plate (personalized plates, etc.) or a Hobbyist Plate. The advantage of a hobby plate is that you pay a one time fee, approximately $160, but then the plate is good for your lifetime. It can also be transferred to another car should you sell the existing car and purchase another which also qualifies for the Hobby plate. If you purchase additional qualified vechilces, the plate cost for each is reduced to $110. In the event the owner does not have a title (but the vehicle has an original VIN) you must apply for a replacement title using state form MV-1. The WDOT may require that the VIN be inspected and certified by a law enforcement officer (state or local police) and then their certification forwarded to the WDOT. D) REPLICA VEHICLES are defined as follows: * Vehicle is a reproduction of a vehicle originally made by another manufacturer. * Vehicle must replicate a vehicle at least 20 years old. * "Kit cars" may be replicas. * May need to have MV2855 PDF completed. The Replica Vehicle category is quite similar to the Street Modified category but applies when the builder has purchased the major components (body, chassis, etc) new from an after market manufacturer rather than assembling older parts from original vehicles. In many cases these manufacturers will supply a certification of construction along with a bill of sale. In most cases, however, these vehicles will not have a VIN and the owner will have to follow the process for obtaining a VIN as described below. Replica Vehicles do not require a state safety inspection. Instead, the owner will complete [http://www.dot.wisconsin.gov/drivers/forms/mv2855.pdf form MV2855] to "self certify" that the vehicle meets all required safety standards. As with Street Modified vehicles, the applicable safety standards are those for the year the car replicates. For example, if you have 1932 Ford kit car, it must meet the safety requirements in place during 1932. ===== Hobby vehicles without a VIN ===== In the event your vehicle does not have a VIN you will need to have the state assign one. Unfortunately, there are no directions on the WDOT web site to do this and very little in the state regulations. However, Curt Rymkus, who sat on the state legislative committee which wrote the original Hobby Plate legislation, as well as all of the updates to those regulations, offers a solution. In a 2006 interview, he said that the process for obtaining a VIN for a street rod or hot rod is as follows: a) Fill out and submit [http://www.dot.wisconsin.gov/drivers/forms/mv2855.pdf form MV2855] to the state DOT office. Include a written notation that the vehicle requires a new VIN. b) The State office of DOT "should" respond with a request for copies of your receipts for all major components of the vehicle (engine, trans, body, frame etc.). This information is to insure that applicable sales taxes have been paid for all of your components. Copy and submit these receipts. c) Once the receipts are submitted, the state DOT "should" respond by sending you a state assigned VIN already stamped on a metal plate. d) The owner must attach the VIN to the vehicle as instructed by WDOT. e) The owner must then schedule an appointment with a state or local police officer to inspect and certify the installation of the VIN. The officer will provide you with the form which he will complete. f) Submit the inspection form to WDOT g) Then continue the normal title/plate application process using form MV-1 Note the "shoulds" in the above description. Some local and state DOT employees as well as some State Police Officers have not been trained in this process and do NOT know how these applications are handled. So the applicant may need to make some follow up inquiries and/or phone calls if the state DOT does not seem to be responding properly. ===== Antique and collector cars ===== Please note that antique and collector cars, cars which are stock, restored or minimally modified, are titled and licensed under different regulations than hot rods. For more information, see [http://www.dot.wisconsin.gov/drivers/vehicles/personal/special/collecto.htm Wisconsin Antique and Collector Cars Regulations]. 4) Full details are available at the [http://www.dot.state.wi.us/drivers/vehicles/personal/special/hobbyist.htm Hobbyist License Plates section] of the Wisconsin Department of Transportation. *To register a hobbyist vehicle, you must have at least one other vehicle currently registered in Wisconsin under the same name. *To operate a hobbyist vehicle during the month of January, you must purchase a temporary plate for $30. *An emission test is required for the following counties: Kenosha, Milwaukee, Ozaukee, Racine, Sheboygan, Waukesha, and Washington. *For most cars and trucks, the cost is about $150-$175, depending on weight. A $50 discount is offered if this is your second and subsequent plate, or if it's being transferred from a vehicle you already own. *You can get a temporary plate while your hobbyist order is being processed. You can only operate a vehicle without a plate for two business days within your date of purchase. ===== Application Process on WDOT Website ===== #Complete and sign the [http://www.dot.state.wi.us/drivers/forms/mv2388.pdf Hobbyist Registration Application form MV2388] #If the vehicle is already titled in your name and: ##Is currently registered and designated with one of the Hobbyist vehicle types, send a copy of your Certificate of Registration. ##Is NOT currently registered, or is NOT designated with one of the Hobbyist vehicle types, send the actual Certificate of Title - not a photocopy. #If the vehicle is NOT titled in your name, send a completed Title Application form MV1 or MV11 and fees, including Hobbyist registration fees determined from [http://www.dot.state.wi.us/drivers/vehicles/personal/special/hobbyist.htm fee table]. #Make check or money order payable to: Registration Fee Trust #Mail to Wisconsin Department of Transportation (address below). ====Contact Details==== '''Wisconsin Department of Transportation''' *E-mail: special-plates.dmv@dot.state.wi.us *Phone: (608) 266-3041 between 8 a.m. and 4:15 p.m. Monday through Friday. *Fax: (608) 267-5106 *physical address: Wisconsin Department of Transportation, Special Plates Unit, P.O. Box 7911, Madison WI 53707-7911 ====Additional Resources==== Rodders going through the title process should familiarize themselves with the applicable state codes and regulations. These regulations can be found in the following links. *[http://www.dot.wisconsin.gov/drivers/lawbook.htm Wisconsin Motor Vehicle Laws] *[http://www.legis.state.wi.us/rsb/code/trans/trans305.pdf Wisconsin Standards for Vehicle Equipment] *[http://www.legis.state.wi.us/Statutes/Stat0347.pdf Wisconsin Equipment Regulations] *[http://www.legis.state.wi.us/Statutes/Stat0341.pdf Wisconsin Vehicle Registration] ===Wyoming=== ==Countries== ===Australia=== (Click the edit link to the right of the word "Australia" to add or edit country-wide hot rod registration information for Australia. Click the edit link to the right of each state or territory to add or edit information for that particular state or territory). ====New South Wales==== ====Queensland==== ====Russian Federation==== Still no any law about performance modified street machines,so you can build anything,but avoid cops and ANY inspection! ====South Australia==== ====Tasmania==== ====Victoria==== ====Western Australia==== Well someone needs to put good old Western Australia on the map so it's ''MUGS AWAY''! This is my experience with building an A roadster from scratch and in particular the Registration/Licensing process. '''Repro Chassis OK''' - Either commercially manufactured or home made. Stamp your own chassis number on a visible part of the rails. Under the Chassis is OK as long as it's visible. Guidelines are available to choose the correct material and it must be fully boxed & braced. '''Repro Body OK.''' - Fibreglass or constructed from odd car panels to ressemble a pre 1948 vehicle. Eg; A model cowl with home made closed or open cab and home made pickup bed. If it looks like a '28 A Pickup then for all intensive purposes it is a '28 A pickup! ---- Registration/Licensing involves a three inspection process, where the car is inspected by TAC (Technical Advisory Committee) respresentatives whom are hot rodders registered with the appropriate Governement Department to carry out such inspections. These inspectors mostly have either an engineering or mechanical trades background. Before the inspection you need to submit a planning application for your project noting down excatly what model, year and style of hot rod you are going to build. Also needs to include, what Engine, G/box, Diff, Suspension, etc. you are going to use. '''1st Inspection''' - Rolling chassis rails must be boxed and completely welded with all crossmembers and suspension in place. Does not require engine or trans to be in place but does require any welded mounts for these to be in place. Basically any part that requires welding to the chassis needs to be present. No paint anywhere so that welds can all be visually inspected. Once inspected chassis can be painted/detailed if you wish. Chassis welding can be performed by owners but note that any ''dodgy'' welds will require grinding out and re-doing or in some cases the whole chassis may be refused. If in doubt of your welding skills then it's best to tack it all together and have a pro finish the job for you. '''2nd Inspection''' - Body on rolling chassis. All door locks, etc in place. Engine, G/box & Diff all in place. Exhaust system, brake lines in place (but not necessarily working) Steering column hooked up & working, Seats & brake/clutch & accelerator pedals in position. All instruments in place. Head, Tail lights & Indicators in place (but not necessarily working). This inspection is to generally check the operational location of everything, such as drivers seating position relative to the vehicles controls, instrumentation & vision. Body and seat/seat belt mounting & mechanical fits & clearances, etc. From this stage the car is genrally torn down and detailed then rebuilt to it's final stage. '''3rd Inspection''' - The car is presented for inspection in it's complete finished form. This inspection usually takes place just before registration and is the final step before presenting the car for a government department inspection and subsequent licensing/registration. '''Governemt Departmental Inspection - (Department of Planning & Infrastructure)''' With the TAC Inspection papers signed off and in the owners hands the car and owner present the car for a government based inspection. In Western Australia this is carried out by the Department of Planning & Infrastructure. They have several inspection centres across the state and in Metro areas. The owner arrives with his signed off TAC inpection papers and the Departments officers then carry out their own inspection of the vehicle. Once completed they sign off all the paperwork and you then go to the Registration office (usually on the same premises) and pay the registration fee PLUS the Governemt Stamp Duty which is based on a value that '''you''' provide them with. '''''Some points I noted with our system are:''''' * The ''system'', both from a TAC & a Government Department view, is very much honesty based. * The TAC inspectors are there to help you rather than hinder your vehicle getting registered. * I found the governemnt inspectors to be very easy to get along with (Welshpool Depot) with no '''gung ho''' or '''rambo''' sentiment! * You make up your own chassis number, they don't provide it. For eg; My 1st rod was Tang28-001, made up from part of my surname, the year of the car and '001' for the first rod I built. My rails were original but they had no visible chassis number I could find. * I was NOT asked for proof of ownership or any past registration history - the roadster was built from bits & pieces from all over the place. * The finished vehicle value I stated was NOT questioned even though I had kept a log of all the expenses involved in building the car and offered to provide a copy. They weren't interested! (though I would suggest that rod builders don't go too low becuase obviously if you sell the car for double what you valued it at you leave yourself liable to be questioned about the indifference) *'''ALL HOTRODS''' ''currently'' being ''newly'' registered in Western Australia are on a '''B CLASS''' license. This simply means that you have to present the car for inspection every 12 months when your yearly registration fee is due. The inspection is carried out by the TAC inspectors and NOT the Government department. A small fee is charged for this inspection and most see it as a good opportunity for a regular check up of the vehicle rather than an incursion of their rights. Of course some see it the other way too! That's good old human nature at work! Be a bugger if we all thought the same............ * I was asked to provide a photo of my car prior to it being registered. I beleive this picture is kept on file at the Departments office where the vehicle was inspected. As all my pictures were digital I simply provided a printed off copy from my computer that was printed onto a standard sheet of A4 paper. They were happy with that. I beleive that now either the TAC or the Government Department inspectors take their own pictures? '''Summary:''' This is a very breif overview based mainly on my own experience and what I've read from information provided by the TAC reps. Of course some may have other experiences which reflect negatively on the system and in some cases they may have some merit? From what I know of the other Australian States, Western Australia has possibly one of the best systems in Australia? One downside (my opinion only) for Western Australia is that to the best of my knowledge we don't have an ''SR (Street Rod), Limited or Special'' registration scheme as per the Victorian example (and possibly other states). Once you own a couple of street rods '''AND''' a couple of family cars the expense of registering them all gets a bit out of hand? It would be nice to have a choice of both systems? ie; Full Registration and ''Street Rod'' or ''Special'' (read cheaper) Registration. It is my understanding that a Rod builder can go outside of the TAC guidelines and as such bypass the 3 inspection process? To do this he/she will require the services a mechanical engineer to sign off all aspects of the vehicle. The engineer must be authorised by the Department of Planning & Infrastrucure to carry out these vehicle assessments. This can be a costly route but if you wish to construct a rod that is outside the guidelines then it is your only choice. With the extra cost involved aside, it is getting increasingly difficult to find suitably authorised engineers who are prepared to sign off modifications. It's more to do with the current ''atmosphere'' surrounding litigation laws than anything else, ie; When or if something goes wrong, who is going to take responsibility? The owner or the engineer who signed the modifications off? '''DISCLAIMER:''' Just for the record I have no affiliation with either the TAC representatives or the Department of Planning and Infrastructure in Western Australia. I have deliberately steered clear of re-writing the guidelines as they are in published form and readily available elesewhere. Like I said earlier, it's all just from my own experience. Please '''DO NOT''' take any of the above as a definative ''text book'' copy of the rules and regulations. It's just one rodders opinion of how the system worked for him in a positve way. Redned ====Australian Capital Territory==== ====Jervis Bay Territory==== ====Northern Territory==== ===Canada=== ===Germany=== ===New Zealand=== For details on making a Hot Rod road legal in New Zealand, visit [http://www.lvvta.org.nz] and make contact with a certifier in your area. More details are also available on the Land Transport Safety Authority website; [http://www.ltsa.govt.nz/vehicles/safety-features/modification.html] There is also a 'Code of Construction manual' which is avalable through various outlets including the New Zealand Hot Rod Association ([http://www.hotrod.org.nz]) ===UK=== {{youcanedit}}

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