Editing Rust

==Notes==
*There are many different products and approaches for handling rust.
*Rust encapsulators are common in the hotrodding industry. Some people think that they won't get rid of a problem, and may make it worse. Oftentimes its is how you apply and prepare it.
*A common thought is that minor surface rust of body panels is treatable, but everything else must be cut out and replaced with new metal. However, this is not always true. But some seriously bad rust you will have too replace.


*To remove surface rust, use naval jelly and steel wool.
#Work in small areas, not larger than a square foot.
#Apply jelly with 000 steel wool, rub it in, and allow it to set for a couple of minutes. Don't let it dry.
#Rub again with steel wool. Repeat a few times, and then clean the area. Dry it immediately.

*To convert/neutralize rust
# A rust converter/neutralizer containing phospheric acid or another type of acid shold be used
# Be careful of getting this stuff on your concrete floor as it will bubble and decompose it
# Follow the instructions on the bottle when you are done there should be a fine coating on the metal which will help prevent further rust from developing
# This stuff is hard on paintbrushes(eats away the brisles) and you must be very careful of your eyes. Also it will ruin paint so again use caution.


*Some people mentioned that professional body shops don't use POR-15 or similar rust "encapsulators" because:
**They would have to re-do too much of their work.
**Rust prevention products are primarily advertised in hobbyist mags, not in periodicals read by professionals in the paint and body industry.
**The lack of rust preventive products in non-hobbyist industries does appear suspect. For example, why don't ships at sea use POR-15?
**The major paint manufacturers like Sherwin Williams, PPG, and DuPont don't produce a POR-15 like product. This is thought to be because they couldn't possibly warranty such a product.
**The fact that POR-15 is not used by manufacturers is also important.


*Can sandblasting "increase" rust? Or, if the rust is removed and the metal is sealed, shouldn't it be eliminated? Some thoughts on this are:
**Although sandblasting may appear to have removed all the rust to the naked eye, it hasn't really done so.
**It's caused by water in the air compressor line, as sand will harbor some moisture. Also, compressed air contains moisture. And, sand has salt in it. A moisture trap in the line should solve the problem with the water in the air line.
**Even high grade epoxies and finishes are not 100% impermeable to water and air.


*Why do older cars rust more quickly? Theories are:
**Cars are more aggressively coated these days. Galvanizing (explain).
**Steel used in cars is of a higher quality these days.
**More salt is used on roads these days.


*POR-15 is largely considered a "duct tape fix" or a "git-er-done" solution. It may be OK for the home hobbyist, but it's not considered the "right way" or the "professional way" to handle rust.
*Brands: POR-15, Zero Rust, Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. These are NOT rust "converters", they don't alter rust, etc. There is a common misconseption that the ones listed are converters, but that is in fact false. They are a coating intended to seal out air and moisture. 
*Another argument against rust "treatments" is that many of them require the surface to be lightly rusted first. "Inducing" rust seems wrong to people.
*Rust-protection products can either act as a coating, or as a sacrificial anode (explain).
*Sand is not recommended for media blasting panels. It acts like little hammers, warping panels with by compressive forces (analagous to hail). Use softer media (list examples).
*If POR-15 and similar products have a "lifetime warranty", explain how guarantees like that don't involve labor costs, losses, or other related costs.
*One recommendation is: after sandblasting, remove some more of the surface metal by sanding with sandpaper. This is done to remove the salt, sand, moisture, etc. from the surface.
*After preparing panels, coating them with epoxy primer is recommended.
*Phosphoric acid or muriatic acid are recommended as well.
*Rust forms so quickly that if you are sand blasting, media blasting, etc., the surface rust will begin to form before you finish the job.
*Many panels have seams, hems, and bends that are inaccessible by blasting, and hold moisture and rust.
*Body panels can be sand blasted. However, it must be done carefully (explain). The pressure of the sand hitting the body panels causes warpage.


Links to review: http://www.tfhrc.gov/pubrds/novdec98/laboratory.htm , http://www2.sherwin-williams.com/im/cs/cs-spring2003/feature-01.asp .

==References==
*[http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/rust-what-acceptable-permanent-ways-get-rid-47303.html Acceptable ways to handle rust], ''Hotrodders Bulletin Board'', September 7, 2004.