Editing Straightening a rear end housing
(
diff
)
← Older revision
|
Latest revision
(
diff
) |
Newer revision →
(
diff
)
Jump to:
navigation
,
search
Here's how to make a fixture and rack for straightening a rear end housing. The cart pictured below is an old gas cylinder cart, bought at a garage sale. An I-beam is welded to the gas cylinder cart. [[Image:Axle_straightening_table.jpg|frame|none|A gas cylinder cart, converted for straightening rear end housings.]] To prevent any mishaps involving slippage and gravity, common jackstands are cut up to wrap the leg of the I-beam. [[pic of jackstand wrappage]] A straight bar is necessary. This hardened and chrome plated bar is about five feet long, and 1.5" in diameter. It's available from McMaster-Carr for about $115.00. Alternatively, an old length of scrap steel shafting can be used. V-blocks and a dial indicator can be used to ensure that a used bar is straight. [[pic of bar]] Then, make some inserts. These are about 2" long, as to provide some load bearing area to lessen wear caused by repeated use. For this application (10-bolt Chevrolet), the ID is 1.504", and the OD is 2.894". [[pic of inserts and drill]] Another insert was made with the same 1.504" ID, and dimensioned to slip-fit into the housing end. This same set of inserts and matching bar can be used as an alignment aid when narrowing rear end housings. The inserts are then clamped in the bearing saddles, and the bar slides through them. The fit should be nice -- the bar should slide through easily, but with no noticeable play. [[pic of inside of pumpkin with bar and inserts]] The housing end insert slides over the bar, and indicates how much the end of the housing is bent out of alignment. [[pic of bar hanging out of end]] Hold a ruler on the tube, to see where it's bent. In this case, it's bent at the areas that were welded by the previous "builder". [[pic of hand holding ruler]] Next, rig a chain at the point of bend, and put a 12-ton bottle jack under the end of the axle. To prevent bending the center casing, put the rear cover on. [[bottle jack and chain pic]] Then, jack up the housing into perfect alignment with the housing end insert, and heat a band all the way around the tube, until it's red-hot. Let the tube cool while it's still supported by the jack. [[pic of welding tube]] [[pic of red-hot band]] In this case, when the tube cooled, the housing end was only a few thousandths of an inch off, and was easily bent into alignment cold, using only the bottle jack. This housing was initially out by almost 1/4" on one side, and 3/16" on the other. Now, the housing end slips on with minimal effort. [[hand pushing on housing end]] I did this once before on my big table. The setup was the same, (I was using a borrowed alignment bar and inserts.) And it was on a 9" ford. I have a bunch of old center sections that have no carrier in them. So I use one as a dummy. I don't know how involved someone would want to get , building their own set of rear axle tools , ( I do intend to do this again), but maybe this thread will help inspire someone with a little ingenuity to do it at home.
|
Editing help
(opens in new window)
Personal tools
Log in / create account
Namespaces
Page
Discussion
Variants
Views
Read
Edit
View history
Actions
Search
Navigation
Main Page
Recent changes
Random page
Help
All articles
Start a new article
Hotrodders forum
Categories
Best articles
Body and exterior
Brakes
Cooling
Electrical
Engine
Fasteners
Frame
Garage and shop
General hotrodding
Identification and decoding
Interior
Rearend
Safety
Steering
Suspension
Tires
Tools
Transmission
Troubleshooting
Wheels
Toolbox
What links here
Related changes
Special pages
Terms of Use
Copyright
Privacy Policy
Your Privacy Choices
Manage Consent