Editing Rust

==Notes==
These are various notes culled from threads on the Hotrodders Bulletin Board and related links. Needs to be organized and verified.

===Media blasting rust===
*Sand is not recommended for media blasting panels. It acts like little hammers, warping panels with by compressive forces (analagous to hail). Use softer media (list examples).
Can be done, but must be cautious. Use a small sandblaster, or a sandblaster set on low (expand on this: distance, angle, etc.).
*Can sandblasting "increase" rust? Or, if the rust is removed and the metal is sealed, shouldn't it be eliminated? Some thoughts on this are:
**Although sandblasting may appear to have removed all the rust to the naked eye, it hasn't really done so.
**It's caused by water in the air compressor line, as sand will harbor some moisture. Also, compressed air contains moisture. And, sand has salt in it. A moisture trap in the line should solve the problem with the water in the air line.
*Many panels have seams, hems, and bends that are inaccessible by blasting, and hold moisture and rust.
*Body panels can be sand blasted. However, it must be done carefully (explain). The pressure of the sand hitting the body panels causes warpage.
*One option is to use chemical paint stripper, then use a sandblaster to lightly "dust" the remaining rust.
*Media blasting can remove good metal from body panels too. Also, used media can have metal particles left in the media.
*Soda blasting can remove light rust, and won't warp panels.
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sugar_sand Sugar sand] is finer and less-damaging than regular sand.

===Patch panels===
Butt weld or lap weld?

===Penny trick for filling holes===
Grind down all the paint and rust from around the hole. Clamp a piece of copper to the other side. Then, fill in the hole with a MIG welder. When done, unclamp the copper -- it won't stick to the panel.

===Removing rust from chrome===
Use a mag wheel polish.


===Electrolysis===
Removing rust with electrolysis -- research this.


===Undercoatings===
Rubberized undercoatings?

*There are many different products and approaches for handling rust.
*Rust encapsulators are common in the hotrodding industry. Some people think that they won't get rid of a problem, and may make it worse. Oftentimes its is how you apply and prepare it.
*A common thought is that minor surface rust of body panels is treatable, but everything else must be cut out and replaced with new metal. However, this is not always true. But some seriously bad rust you will have too replace.

===Plasma spray welding===
With plasma spray welding, metal wire is converted to sprayable form, and used to repair rust holes, fill panel joints, and blend patch panels. One example is the machine sold by [http://www.rustbustersllc.com Rustbusters].


===Rust pitting===
After removing all surface rust, treat with metal prep, wash, dry, sand, prime, fill the pits with polyester putty, then smooth and prime again.

*To remove surface rust, use naval jelly and steel wool.
#Work in small areas, not larger than a square foot.
#Apply jelly with 000 steel wool, rub it in, and allow it to set for a couple of minutes. Don't let it dry.
#Rub again with steel wool. Repeat a few times, and then clean the area. Dry it immediately.

*To convert/neutralize rust
# A rust converter/neutralizer containing phospheric acid or another type of acid shold be used
# Be careful of getting this stuff on your concrete floor as it will bubble and decompose it
# Follow the instructions on the bottle when you are done there should be a fine coating on the metal which will help prevent further rust from developing
# This stuff is hard on paintbrushes(eats away the brisles) and you must be very careful of your eyes. Also it will ruin paint so again use caution.


===Removing rust===
*Start with as low as 36 grit, and finish with about 220.
*Scotch-brite pads and Comet/Ajax.
*3M clean-n-strip disc?

*Some people mentioned that professional body shops don't use POR-15 or similar rust "encapsulators" because:
**They would have to re-do too much of their work.
**Rust prevention products are primarily advertised in hobbyist mags, not in periodicals read by professionals in the paint and body industry.
**The lack of rust preventive products in non-hobbyist industries does appear suspect. For example, why don't ships at sea use POR-15?
**The major paint manufacturers like Sherwin Williams, PPG, and DuPont don't produce a POR-15 like product. This is thought to be because they couldn't possibly warranty such a product.
**The fact that POR-15 is not used by manufacturers is also important.


===Chemical dipping===
Complete acid dips are best, but expensive. By this method, the entire body is dipped into a tank.
**Even high grade epoxies and finishes are not 100% impermeable to water and air.

===Various commercial rust encapsulators and rust removers (need to be sorted)===
*[http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=16408