Editing Bulletproof cooling system

My approach to cooling has always been the same because it has always worked for me, engine swap after engine swap.

Same or larger radiator square inch area that was used originally to cool the motor from the factory. THE MOTOR, NOT THE CAR. You shouldn't expect a Dodge Colt radiator to cool the 440 you've just shoe-horned in. (I used this example because I've seen it done).

Same or more radiator cores that were used originally to cool the motor from the factory (not to exceed three cores in my opinion). THE MOTOR, NOT THE CAR.

Copper/brass construction radiator. If using an aluminum radiator, install a sacrificial anode in the coolant water.

Blocking of all air passageways where the air could get AROUND instead of THROUGH the radiator core at the front of the vehicle.

Full shroud with the radiator positioned so that the fan blades are half-in and half-out of the shroud hole and no more than 1" of clearance between the shroud and the fan blade tips. (Just enough to prevent intervention when the motor rocks on its rubber mounts).

OEM 18 inch, 7-blade steel fan with 2" to 2 3/4" pitch.

Thermostatically controlled fan clutch.

Water pump and crankshaft pulleys sized according to what was on the motor from the factory. On a street motor, shoot for 1.2 to 1.3 times crank speed for pump pulley speed.

180 degree thermostat. The sensor pill goes toward the motor.

Spiral-wound spring in bottom radiator hose to prevent collapse of the hose.

Proper pressure cap for the radiator being used.

Sufficient openings in the engine compartment to allow the exit of all the air drawn into the compartment. This might require the removal or surgery of inner fender panels or using spacers to raise the hood of the car up an inch or two at the back.

Proper coolant/water mix to prevent freezing up in winter. Water transfers heat better than coolant, but some coolant must be used to prevent freezing.

Although I've never found it necessary, I think FlowKooler came up with an excellent idea when they marketed the flat aluminum discs to rivet to the backside of the stamped steel impeller in the pump. Or, if the impeller is iron, weld or braze a steel disc on. The only one I could find on a search was for a Mopar, but the disc wouldn't be that difficult to fab up yourself. Space the backing plate back farther with a couple of gaskets to prevent interference of the rivet heads on the backing plate if riveting a disc to a stamped steel impeller.
http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11774
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...07&autoview=sku
This disc should make an appreciable difference in the flow of water at engine speeds under 3K r's.


In 50 years of wrenching on cars, I have never used an aluminum radiator or an electric fan or any other trick of the month or "double throwdown" cooling device and have never had a cooling problem even stalled in traffic in Phoenix (in the middle of the Sonoran Desert) on the Fourth of July.
techinspector1.