Editing Buffing your newly-finished paint

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conte elegia] == Introduction ==

This is the second part of finishing off your paint job. Doing this will bring out pure brilliance of the paint, while eliminating all impurities of the paint.


== Basic Concept ==
now you have made a choice,you are going to finish you ride and its going to be a show paint job,one question,is this all that you want or do you want the look!,everyone can get (the look),i have done it quite a few times and have pulled it off with good results,and (the look)took the show and people liked everything!.....the concept is just that (the look)and what it intails and what it holds for (u),its there you must pull all your power up from what ever is in your being and do it!....the sanding the body the paint the buffing is the icing on the cake,it can be done and you will do it,its just a kind of (style)you use and what you use and how you use it!,sounds like a game or some sort of game of chance doesnt it,or does it?,read on and see.............bourne51.

== Wetsanding ==
Alot of people dont think of the total value of a good wetsand job,its only when they start buffing is when they find out its back to the drawing board( usually, they did not do enought wetsanding). So let me get you guys and gals straight, in the process everyone calls-wet sanding, THIS is the way to get a SHOW FINISH. The people that have gotten t many awards for their cars and bikes will say BLOCK until YOU DROP is the name of the game! a lot of people use other methods but the (english type)is what i use.the method is condsidering the car bike or truck or whatever is stright and good pannels,correct paint just right ect. you can go for the finish,first out you must take a fender,side and flat parts, look to see how much you must re-flatten,cover all sharp corners with 1/2 inch tape(masking)and use,1000grit this is considering everything is in very good shape,clear is flat color right ect.you use (at least i do) a 5gal.bucket with one shot of dish soap,then blend it with the luc-warm water and sand until the surface is completely flat.i use a 3m squigi and pull back on the sanded surface and notice if any shine is present if it is flat go to the next area,do not over reach it will burn you out,also if the surface is still (unsanded),keep re-sanding the area until a flat simi gloss,flat surface is achived.the finer the paper the more simi gloss it will be.you keep doing this until the whole car is done with 1000,now you will have to do this on every grit-level you use!!! so now you will do the whole car in 1500,2000,2500,3000(yes there is a 3000 grit!!!),this is the way i get notice by the judges,and they see the finish and its right!,so this is how i do a sandjob,it will take anywere for one-week to 2 1/2 weeks to get it right but when its right! then you can buff it out with ease and not much pressure because the surface is pre-polished,and it only takes a bit of buffing to do the rest,so go for it the only thing is you must take the time to do it right!..(bourne51)........

== Buffing and polishing compounds ==


know that there are many types of buff heads and i use after pre-sanding 1000-3000 grit paper,a yellow buff foam pad-that is stock with a plastic backing you can find these at any car paint shop.i trim off at least 1/2 inch of plastic off the outer back top of the platic because it hits the paint at weird angles.now for the buffing compounds, i use 00-white buffing compound it is very fine   1% water,it makes a mess but it works!.now for the buff take a fender, you put the mix on a spot say 0ne foot dia and spread
it on that spot,and start to buff,oh by the way your speed should be half speed at this time,start to buff watch to build heat slowly not to put too much poundage on the spot you have picked out.now that should be enought until you see it dry up clean off the spot and see how it looks, now if its dull re-do it and see if it is the same pull the speed up a little more until its right for the paint dont go full speed it might burn the paint and thats bad!!if by now you have done the right speed and buff mix then its time to finish this spot.first put an table spoon of full undiluded buff compound mix on the same spot and start to buff,feel the heat,move pad(buff-pad),back and forth and increase speed by using your thumb,on the speed knob,now you should see what you have it should be very glossy 
and the look should be close.keep doing this until everything is glossy and nice,after this its time to wipe down with a clean rag and soap and water,and use a breathing glase,(usually brown in color),not pink,pink does seal the paint you dont want to do any sealing until a month or more paint must breath.put a line of mix on the fender and buff,it should glide over the surface and really be nice by this time.now do the whole car like this and you will have a nice buff.

== Buffers, which ones to use ==

Before you buff-out impurities in the paint, you must first get the right power unit to properly buff the paint. Some use a Makita brand multi-speed buffer. Yes, the rotary buffers may LOOK like a regular angle grinder, but they aren't. The buffer has a trigger that varies the speed of the wheel, while almost all angle grinders are either all or nothing. Different speeds must be applied to diffrent surface areas; so you absolutely need a multi-speed type.

== Buffing wheels and bonnets ==