Editing Choosing a trailer

Steel rusts, and wood rots.

On wood, things won't slide around as much. Be cautious, because some wood trailers are not pressure-treated wood, and won't last long.

Wood can loosen, crack, and warp. Fluids soak in, leaving a mess.

With a wood trailer, you can screw something down to secure it.

Steel can get oily and slippery, especially when hauling project cars leaking fluids. Diamond-plate decks help with slipping.

Trailers that are open in the middle (open-pit trailers) can be useful. Less weight, oil leaks onto the ground, and the open part can be useful for working under the car.

A box on the tongue is useful for holding jacks, chocks, tie-down straps, hand tools, etc.

Look for trailers to buy at race tracks. There are people there with a trailer and no car.

Wood decks will have to be replaced periodically. Factor in the time to remove the old wood and fasteners, and then buy, cut, and install new wood.

Steel decks need to be coated. Epoxy, bedliner, etc. Over and under is best.

==Types of decking==
*Steel diamond plate
*Aluminum diamond plate
*Heavy steel expanded metal (?)
*Pressure-treated wood
*Non pressure-treated wood, coated with something.

==Trailer suppliers==
*Dargo
*Long Haul
*Trailtech
*Sloan
*Fleet (?)
*Kings Trailer
*ABU Trailers

==Trailer winches==
Good features: free-wheel option to let the cable out, reel speed that isn't very slow.
When examining ratings: drag weight and rolling weight are two different things.
Can be hooked up to battery, or powered through a 20 amp cigarette lighter plug.
A snatch block can be used to double the power of the winch.


Use high-quality, high-rated straps for securing your load. Where a strap will be rubbing against steel, use a piece of cardboard as a buffer.

==Enclosed trailers==
Keep nosy people and thieves wondering. Makes for better piece of mind when you are stopped to eat or rest. They work good as storage too.

Tie-down loops or rails can be used for extra support. Rebar makes a decent tie-down rail, and the ridges on it provide traction for tie-down straps and rope.
Removable fenders are helpful for towing lower cars.
Torsion axles are recommended.

If tongue weight is too much, load the car backwards, or move it back on the trailer. Careful with this, with the weight in the rear, the load can weave.

States have different requirements for brakes on axles.

Electric brake controller recommended.

Be wary of the tongue weight. It should only be about 10% of the towing weight.

Cross the tie-down straps.
==When towing==
Always remember that you need more room to stop, so leave a good gap in front of you when driving. One car length per 10 mph has been recommended.

Practice driving with the trailer with no load on it, to see how it handles and brakes.

Electronic proportional brake controller recommended. This brand especially: http://www.tekonsha.com/prodig.html .

If the trailer is not level, it can hit a slight bump and "bounce" for a while.

Chains and binders may be best, but sometimes can't be used if the paint will be damaged.

Check your straps and chains frequently as you stop.

http://www.rumber.com/ has been recommended. It's "lumber" made from recycled tire rubber and plastics. Manuf says: Durable, non-slip, easy to clean, impervious to water, UV-resistant. Will not crack, rot, or slip.

Use a coupler that is rated for AT LEAST the load of a fully loaded trailer.
Brakes on all trailer wheels.
Make sure your trailer tire gross load ratings add up to the weight of the total load. Trailer-rated rims too.
Tongue jack should be fixed at the top AND the bottom.

Wood, steel, tilt, ramps, beavertail, straight axle, dropped axle -- it's all up to personal preference.

"Farmer Fix" for painting a trailer: change your tow car's oil, and save the oil. Add 1 quart of aluminum paint and one gallon of thinner, diesel, or any oil-based liquid. Brush it on with a shop broom, and let it sit in the sun for several days. Also, used motor oil and diesel fuel, half-and-half.