Editing Cheapo paint job

{{youcanedit}} You get what you pay for. Hotrodding forums frequently witness posts by hotrodders endorsing various (and numerous) "cheapo" methods of painting a vehicle. The overwhelming consensus of body professionals and experienced hotrodders is that, in most cases, "Cheapo" paint jobs simply aren't worthwhile. There are many clever and reasonable ways to save money while building a hot rod, and, overall, aggressively scrimping on the paint job does not seem to be among them. While "Cheapo" jobs may be good for "Cheapo" vehicles (beaters, work or farm vehicles, "practice" cars for learning painting, etc.), they aren't good for vehicles in which you have invested significant amounts of time, money, and effort. The complexities of the various painting products and application methods can make it difficult for an amateur to understand why scrimping on a paint job is, ultimately, not a wise decision. So, this article has been started in an effort to diminish those complexities. If you are an auto body professional, an experienced hotrodder, or simply someone with good information on the realities of the "Cheapo" paint job, please feel free to add to this article. ==What's a "cheapo" paint job?== ===Cheapo application methods=== ====Rattle cans==== ====Brushes and rollers==== Often referred to as "powder puff" paint jobs, because, historically, hotrodders actually applied paint with powder puffs used to apply makeup. These methods typically leave visible marks indicating that a cheapo method of paint application was used. However, when viewing photos of paint jobs (in a magazine, on a website, etc.), there is a crucial understanding to keep in mind. The brush or roller marks can be hidden when photographed. This could be done unintentionally, or with "selective" photography methods. Note the two photos below. {| |-valign="top" |[[Image:Cheapo_brush_job1.jpg|thumb|none|400px|A brush-applied paint job appears to look good in a photograph.]] |[[Image:Cheapo_brush_job2.jpg|thumb|none|400px|Another photograph of the same paint job, with different lighting and perspective, reveals clearly visible brush marks.]] |} To properly assess a paint job, you need to look at it in person. ===Discount paint franchises=== ====Maaco==== While Maaco shops follow corporate Maaco guidelines, they are all independently owned and operated. So, depending on the management, your local Maaco shop may or may not do quality work. However, in general, when speaking of Maaco, horror stories abound. ''(Research and expand on this specifically, and give examples and proof)''. *Horror story #1: I took my car to Maaco to have it painted and once I got it back it had overspray all over a well taken care of engine bay, all over all four of my wheels and tires, paint drips on my rain guards and more! They even painted something I did not ask them to! When asked to fix it they began to do a very poor job right in front of me. I immediately told them to stop and just drove the car home. All in all my paint job cost me $600 and it began to flake off one year later. I will never visit a Maaco again. ====Earl Scheib==== ===Lacquer-based paint=== ====Dupli-Color==== Dupli-Color is a lacquer paint product being sold by Sherwin Williams. It's marketed to the lower end of the skill and experience spectrum, as an easy-to-apply and inexpensive option for hobbyists. Lacquers are the other "family" of paint products (the primary choice being enamels). While lacquer paints used to be commonly used, they have given way to the more modern enamels. Lacquers literally "dry" -- the solvent evaporates. For this reason, lacquers will re-dissolve in their original solvent. By comparison, enamels "cure" by chemical reaction. If you apply lacquer thinner to a lacquer paint job, the paint will become a liquid again. Other solvents can have the same effect. Lacquers also have minimal UV protection. While you can paint over a lacquer paint job, the lacquer would likely be the weak part of the paint job. Dupli-Color describes lacquer as "durable", and enamels as "very durable". This is, at best, a generous description, and at odds with what professionals are saying. Marketing aside, lacquer paints are not considered durable. A Dupli-Color paint job would likely be fairly easy to apply, and look good when completed. However, it will not have the durability of more modern paint coatings. ===Oil-based machine paint=== ====Rustoleum==== Rustoleum does not have UV protection. Its use will result in a paint job that will fade, chalk, and peel. ''(expand on this)''. ==Why is the "cheapo" paint job so tempting?== *The learning curve: selecting equipment and learning how to use it, choosing finish products, getting a few screw-ups under your belt. *Automotive paint costs a lot. People who have never bought car paint are used to paying "house paint" prices for paint, so hundreds per gallon seems very high *The satisfaction of a "do it yourself" project completed. *Forum posts often show cheapo paint jobs that appear to be high-quality. *There are many examples that have started after the Moparts.com post that show completed work done over the years. -- '''show examples here''' ==Why not do a "cheapo" paint job?== *Time invested in mechanical aspect of job. *Deterioration of finish over time. Looks great at first, but can take years to deteriorate. *Value of paint job relevant to value of rest of vehicle is disproportionate. AKA, using this method to paint a show car or rare automobile. *Down the line, if you want to do a professional-quality paint job, all of the underlying cheapo paint will need to be removed. Stripping the paint, doing the filler work, priming, blocking, and removing trim or panels can take hundreds of hours for a hobbyist, or cost thousands of dollars if done professionally. When modern finishes are applied over cheapo finishes, the differing chemical make-ups cause problems. This removal is very time-consuming and labor intensive. Cheapo paints are often very soluble, and when modern finishes are applied over them, the solvents will get under the old paint and make it peel. ==When is a "cheapo" paint job appropriate?== *Work truck. *Beater. *Vehicle that will see farm or utility use. *Learning basic paint techniques. *Vehicles with a sufficiently low market value such that spending the money required for a traditional paint job doesn't make economic sense. ==The "right" way to properly paint a car== Put basics in here, and see: [[First paint job]]. ==Articles describing "cheapo" paint jobs== *[http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html $50 paint job] -- RickWrench.com *[http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0707_1962_ford_falcon_budget_paint_job/index.html $98 paint job] -- Hot Rod Magazine *[http://www.stylusscustoms.com/poorMansPaintJob.html Poor man's paint job] -- StylusCustoms.com ==References== *[http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/good-hot-rod-mag-aproved-paint-must-read-128119.html "Hot Rod Mag-approved" paint job], ''Hotrodders Bulletin Board'', November 13, 2007. *[http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/how-paint-your-car-75-00-no-kidding-128092.html How to paint your car for $75 -- no kidding], ''Hotrodders Bulletin Board'', November 13, 2007. ==Resources to review== *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/odd-painting-technique-does-work-107890.html *http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1 *http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/Kirker/acrylic-urethanes.html *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/98-roller-paint-job-hot-rod-117274.html *http://www.yachtpaint.com/holding_pages/finland/pdf/leaflet.pdf *http://www.boatus.com/boattech/TipRollingTipping.htm *http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=004546;p=1#000019

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