Editing Stripping paint

{{newarticle}} Although it is possible to paint over old paint, you may choose to get rid of it. This might be because the paint is cracked or peeling, or that there are already too many layers of paint . ==Inspecting the panel before stripping== If the paint is still shiny, before getting rid of it, use it to your advantage to find waves and dents in the body. For example, here is an effective way to inspect a quarter panel for imperfections. Move the vehicle outside or to a bright area. Place yourself near the back door and look toward the rear of the car. Focus on the panel's reflection of the objects in the vicinity. Move your head up and down, left and right, scanning the panel's entire area. Mark areas that reveal an imperfection with a pen, and take pictures so you can remember to pay closer attention to them when doing body work. Repeat for every panel, door, hood, etc. ==Methods of stripping paint== ===Chemical=== There exist a few effective brands of chemicals for stripping paint from vehicles. However, this practice may be inappropriate for novices, as these strippers are messy, acidic, and toxic. First, take the vehicle or part to be stripped to a well-ventilated area (outside is ideal). These chemical strippers are more commonly used on hoods, roofs, and trunk lids as they need to be left alone after applying. The stripper would just run if put on a vertical panel, and thus would be somewhat ineffective. (Don't use chemical stripper on laquer paint. It will run and make a big mess. Laquer paint can be stripped by soaking clean rags in laquer thinner, applying them to the vehicle, and then leaving them there a while in a well-ventilated area.) *Stripping a roof: Surrounding areas should be properly masked with several layers of tape and masking paper, as stripper will work its way through tape glue. *Stripping a hood: Pop the hood and slip lengths of cardboard half a foot underneath it, all around the perimeter *Stripping a trunk: Same as hood. Tie weight to the latch to keep the trunk from rising. All areas besides the areas you want to strip should be properly masked or removed. Stripper could seep behind a moulding and be problematic later. Stripper will damage plastic lenses. After paint has lifted, scoop it up with a putty knife and discard the paint/stripper mixture into a carboard box. Don't get any on your skin -- it burns. If you do, wash it off IMMEDIATELY with water. Once you've scooped up most of the mixure, wash off the rest with water. It will dilute the stripper and render it less volatile. Wipe underneath the hood or trunk before reaching under it. Stripper will surely have seeped there and leave you with a nasty surprise. After the area has been washed off, wipe it dry with a clean cloth. Remove any remaining paint or primer with an orbital sander using 40 to 80 grit. See [[Stripping paint#Orbital sander|Orbital sander]] below. ====Chemical paint strippers==== ''(list chemical paint strippers here, with links to sites)'' ===Mechanical=== ====Razor blade==== There are instances where using a razor blade will be the quickest way to remove a layer of paint. However, if the paint has properly adhered to the primer, using the blade might not be possible. Once paint has been removed, you may want to remove the rest of primer and areas of paint that were not possible to remove with the blade (See [[Stripping paint#Orbital sander|Orbital sander]] below). You may find that a conventional razor blade holder is difficult to use for stripping paint. The flakes tend to bunch up between the blade and the tool. To solve this problem, us a regular vise grip to hold the razor blade. Turn the vise grip upside down for a less dramatic angle of attack. Too sharp an attack might cause the blade to catch, which could gouge the sheet metal. To lessen any further risk of gouging, run the blade backwards against old smooth paint 4-5 times. This will push up the burr and permit the blade's edge to glide much more easily. ====Media blasting==== Media blasting (specifically '''sand''' blasting) is typically not recommended for stripping paint from body panels -- the impact of the media acts like tiny hammers, warping the panel. Nevertheless, it may be useful in some instances. See [[Media blasting]]. ====Orbital sander==== ALWAYS USE A RESPIRATOR WHEN USING SANDING TOOLS. Removing paint from a panel using an orbital sander is the safest idea. Use 40 grit sandpaper for the quickest job. As you would be using the orbital sander for a prolonged period, wearing anti-vibration gloves might be a good idea. If you don't wear gloves, your hands will just feel funny for a bit afterwards because of the exposure to the vibration. However, you should be aware that there is a medium risk of developing a condition called "whitefinger" if using an orbital sander every day for more than two hours. [http://www.brandontoolhire.co.uk/vibration/] Whitefinger is a condition where nerve damage causes someone to loose feeling in their hands or fingers. After sanding off all traces of paint and primer, remove dust with a blow gun and a clean cloth. Don't touch the metal with your skin; it will contaminate it. Immediately spray on etching primer to keep ambient moisture from contaminating the panel. Always wear a respirator when spraying etching primer. ==Methods of NOT stripping paint== Using an angle grinder is not a recommended way of getting rid of paint. The grit is too coarse and will damage the metal and would require some type of body filler: extra work you really don't want or need to get into.

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