Editing Freeing a stuck engine

[[Some points to remember BEFORE you start]]

Before you get out the sledge hammer and the block of wood and start pounding away, there are a few things to consider. One of the first things to consider is how long has it been since the engine was lasted turned over? and, Secondly, what was the condition the engine was left in when last turned over.

[[1. Taking a visual look at the engine]]

Start by removing the air cleaner. While removing the air cleaner check for moisture or water puddles in the oil bath. The reason that you are looking for moisture is to determine how much water could be within the engine. If snow has blown into the engine compartment, it will melt and puddle out inside the air cleaner, intake manifold, lifter valley, etc but necessarily make its way deep into the engine. If the engine has been flooded by means of overland flooding and rising water, then you could also have an accumulation of silt and dirt within the engine. Dirt and water within the engine is the worst kind of engine lock that you can experience.( I'll explain why later.) 

Pull the dipstick and check for water in the engine oil. If you find water in the oil, try and determine how much there is. Wipe off the dipstick, attach a pool tester strip to the stick with masking tape and carefully dip the stick in. Note: Pool tester strips can usually be found at pool and spa outlets for about 89 cents for 50 strips. The different colored bands will help you to measure how much water is in the oil pan, if it is clean or dirty, etc.

Open the rad cap and check for coolant. If none is present in the upper tank, open the drain tap and check for the presence of antifreeze. You can remove a upper rad hose housing and check under the thermostat too. In some cases, you can open a engine block tap or remove a water jacket stud to look for coolant too.

The reason why you are looking for the presence of water is this. If the reason for the engine being stuck is caused by external or internal water damage this could alter your decision to use this engine. By this I mean, if the water is from an external source such as rain and it came into the air cleaner via the butterfly stud on the aircleaner, chances are there is only a small quantity in only a few of the engine bores. You can only have so many intake valves open at one time and the water would have only migrated into those cylinder bores, therefore, you could only have two or three stuck pistons at best and not all eight. Chances of freeing the engine is much better. On the other hand, it the engine had been flooded by rising flood waters, there is a chance that besides intake valves being open, the  exhaust valves open  too. To make matters worse, water also entered in the oil breather and is present in the oil pan. Flood waters also have a large presence of clay particles (or silt), chemicals of unknown nature, and varying ph (acidity or alkalinity ). 

The reason why flood water is the worst to deal with is this. The clay or silt particles will puddle out deep inside of the engine and hang on to the rough casting surfaces of all the internal workings. These clay particles are so minute, that when they are in solution they will infiltrate a bearing. When the water being to dry they will form a layer of dust within the bearing. The dust will wick up the oil from the surface and water vapor from the air will start to rust the steel surface over time. The dust will also have acids and alkalines (caustics)attached to it and together with water vapor will etch the bearing surfaces.

After a flood, priorities arise. Newer, essential and operational vehicles take priority, others will have to wait. The flooded engines will just have to wait, sometimes after freeze-up, sometimes even longer. Internal damage and cracked blocks and heads are usually the result of frozen water. Sometimes they will end up being junked for the cast iron.

[[2. Understanding and Preparation]]

What you discovered above will lead you to understanding the solution to unsticking the engine. An engine that was in a covered shed, had no visible sign of water infiltration, was full of oil and coolant but stuck, is usually an easy fix. The rings which are cast iron are stuck to the cast cylinder walls but only in the cylinders which are open to the atmosphere. If you followed the firing order of the engine, you could determine which are open cylinders and which are closed. For arguments sake, why don't we take note of that for future reference when we open the engine up.