Editing The FREE T Bucket plans

{{youcanedit}} vC4OEm <a href="http://lykmjlisdwpe.com/">lykmjlisdwpe</a>, [url=http://inlxmzfiaoxt.com/]inlxmzfiaoxt[/url], [link=http://erxwsaokodvb.com/]erxwsaokodvb[/link], http://jairwqczmqpl.com/ dors2.txt;1;1 dors2.txt;1;1 dors2.txt;1;1 ==Rear Suspension == ===Coil Springs & shocks=== === Coil Over's=== "Again, an attractive and simple setup to install. Experimentation with spring rates may be required. Cost is most prohibitive feature of this choice. This IS the most popular modern T suspension setup for the rear suspension." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. ===Transverse Leaf Spring (Buggy spring)=== "Based on the early Ford suspension, this is the "classic" bucket suspension. T springs (the most desirable being the very early taper-leaf units) and Model A springs (the most desirable being the roadster springs) are often called "high arch" springs, you know why. Again, to have the best buggy setup the spring should be mounted under tension as the original Ford design. The rear perches whether mounted on top, to the front, or to the rear of the rear axle should be 49.5" apart for a Model A spring and 48.5" apart for a Model T spring. As with the front springs you'll probably end up with a 5-7 leaf spring rather than the 10-14 leaf assembly you start with." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. ===1/4 elliptical=== ===4 link / Hair pins=== ==Axle Centering devices== ===Panhard Bar=== ===Watts Link===??? ==Engine / transmission Xmembers== The engine is an active part of the T bucket frame though a "universal" tubular cross member is usually used with the correct rubber mounts for the engine to the tubular member. The transmission mount can be either a "universal" tubular cross member as well or a built up, custom made piece. The transmission is bolted to the cross member via a rubber mount similar to the engine. Use of solidly bolted engine-transmission components is discouraged for a street driven car as the vibrations will tend to loosen fasteners and be physically uncomfortable on longer rides. Tubular cross members can be sourced from: Speedway Motors Total Performance JC Whitney The simplicity of a T-Bucket, a Total Performance car in particular can allow you to move the engine forward. A SB Ford with a C4 transmission will almost certainly require at least a 4" forward movement as the overall length of the combination put the transmission tailshaft within ~4-5" of an 8" differntial yoke. This additional 4" will allow for an ~9" driveshaft. The usual Chevy 350/350 combination will benefit from a 3-4 inch forward movement by allowing use of an HEI ignition. The only drawback is that you cannot use the manufacturer's driveshaft, and a new one will need to be built. Another benefit of a 4" forward moving is that the engine compartment looks "balanced" - that is, the engine isn't jammed against the firewall. The will entail moving the radiator forward a bit as well ==Steering assembly== "The two things any car has to do for safety and survival are STEER and STOP!!" Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. Use the currently available Corvair or Vega boxes, Speedway sells brand new Corvair reveresed boxes that are safe and ready to go. They also have the Vega box for cross steering. It is recommended that conventional tie rod ends be used on the steering drag link from the box to the steering arm as well as the tie rod rather then the clevises often supplied by some vendors. Tie rod ends are specially built for this kind of service and are extremely strong while the clevices have been known to bend, split or bolts break. Also, Speedway can supply tie rod/drag link lengths to your requirements in either raw steel or chrome plated. If you are using some suppliers spindle assemblies you may have to ream the existing bolt hole for proper tie rod assembly. These reamers can be purchased from Speedway. A word of note here - Total Performance makes probably the most long lived and most popular T-bucket but there is one significant design flaw that they continue to produce. The sleeve that connects the steering box (Corvair) to the steering shaft is extremely weak and can split. This sleeve has two milled slots and is in a shear failure mode with the rolled drive pin. In this writer's experience, besides his own component failure, knows of two additional in my area alone. The steering column sleeve should be discarded and a u-joint substituted. You can either mill flats on the supplied shaft and use a DD u-joint, have splines cut on the shaft and uses a splined joint or (though not recommended) use a racing style (TIG/MIG) weld on u-joint, this failure has been corrected by Total Performance in their newer kits, the sleeve has been replaced with a u-joint though it is a weld on. ==Bracing and mounting the Body== "For cleanest and simplest body mounting, weld your mounting tabs inside the frame rails at the side part of the cowl, a simple straight 1X2" inch full cross member at the back edge of the "door" edge bead, and the last about halfway from the "door" bead to the back of the bucket. If you have chosen to not have the framerails sticking inside the cabin with you at the back, weld a tab to the top of the kickup and form it to meet the back walland install a bolt on each side to stabilize the back wall on these tab mounts. Your 3/4-1" marine plywood floor should rest directly on the frame rails on a layer of body to frame webbing or similar material to eliminate any squeaks from movement. Use minimum 3/8 bolts/nuts and large thick flat washers along with lock washers to secure your body down to the frame. After your first 50-100 miles of riding, check all fasteners for tightness. There you are, simple, secure, and solid. A well made 23-25 T roadster body will not need any wooden bracing in the bucket itself unless having an opening door on the passenger side. It is important to reinforce the upper rail around the cabin. DO this before you have the floor installed as it is easier if the body is upside down. Measure your body and see how symmetrical it is. This can be done with a nice piece of 1/2" rebar formed to fit closely under the rail from the dashboard around the perimeter of the body and back to the dashboard. It is easier to do this in 2 pieces and then weld them together. Once you have a good fit mix a nice of your favorite filler and lay down a bed of it to nestle the rebar(derusted,epoxy-primed and painted of course) in. Once the filler has set up, go ahead and make up some more and completely enclose the bar in a cocoon of filler all the way around. Now the upper rail of your body is solid and it is time to install the floor and fit the body to the frame. You'll want a nice 5/8-3/4" piece of plywood cut to fit the firewall of your roadster on the inside. This gives you a nice solid mounting surface for your electrics (fuse box, relays, etc.) and accelerator pedal. You may want to run a stringer of wood just inside the lower rocker panel where the body drops over the frame as a stiffener." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. ==Hinge Fabrication== ==Latch Installation== ==Seating== ====Using original / repop Seat parts==== "For crying out loud, don't make up any form of foam block seat cushion or anything like it. The only thing that gives you a good, if not great, seat is a NEW Model T seat cushion spring assembly. These are made by 2 companies, Car-Line Mfg. in Beaumont TX and Snyder's Antique Auto Parts in New Springfield OH. You can buy them from many suppliers of Model T parts but these are the 2 manufacturers. Mount the spring assembly to a 5/8-3/4" plywood base with 3-5 3" holes cut into the board. The upholstery design is up to you. The holes allow displaced air from your weight on the seat to escape without blowing up the upholstery, get it? Determine the height of your seat riser board at the front of the cushion by mocking up the cushion assembly in the body. You'll want about a 4-6" board for the proper slope of the seat from front to back. You may put a short block or two under the back as well if it fits your purpose. You might consider buying a stock T seat back rest spring too. This will give you a nice surface for your back to rest on. Don't forget to add a lumbar roll to the lower part of any upholstery you use, or have a nice upholstery matching lumbar pillow made for your driving comfort. The coil spring seat assembly in your car and a working suspension on your car will give you as close to that "Cadillac" ride as you can get with a short wheelbase light car like the T and make those long trips to rod runs not only enjoyable but desirable. Your wife or girlfriend will appreciate that comfort too, and there are rewards for that consideration, know-what-i-mean-Vern? Oh yeah, about seat inserts, those fiberglass inner wall and seat and floor moulded pieces that drop in and "save you time and money". DON'T DO IT! Unless you are the guy whose butt was used to determine the size and shape of that piece, it will be a mistake. These are usually moulded with a division between the seat depressions. This is because they need those ribs for structural strength, but YOU don't need 'em because space in a bucket is at a premium." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. ====Modifying other seats to fit==== "One of the most popular seats used from other sources in T buckets is the short bench seat from the rear of Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth mini-vans(T&C, Explorer, and Voyager). The size is OK and the frame work can be trimmed and modified to get the job done. These can be bought cheaply at a junkyard and you may even find one with leather upholstery!!(if that matters) There isn't much else out there except school bus seats which must be shortened as well. The little T doesn't lend itself well to bucket seats as most readily availlable ones are too wide for the T body." But if you look at some small car bucket seats, you can find some very narrow units. Chevy Beretta seats are narrow enough, and very comfortable. Cutting down the frame bottom will get the seat almost flush with the floor. Excerpt from soon to be released book from Pasadenahotrod. Remember that you do not want to sit to high in the bucket. I have seen seats so overly padded thatthe drivers butt is just below the top line of the bucket. It can look like you're falling out and is also very uncomfortable trying it stay in going around corners! The lower your seating position the better. It will give you more protection in the body and more room around your feet and legs. It will also keep your head below the windshield! ==Pedal Assemblies== One of the most overlooked aspects of building a T Bucket is seating position and location of controls. Many a T Bucket builder has spent many years and many dollars building their dream machine only to have it sit in the garage because it is too uncomfortable to drive. Try not to limit yourself because you just happen to have a certain steering box or seat. These cars have a pretty small cockpit and there's not much room for controls. If your going to have a traditional style bucket with the steering column though the floor, be very careful that you have plenty of room for your knees and you'll be able to operate the gas and brake pedals. The best way is to mock up everything and make sure your final setup will work for you, especially if you are taller than 5'-8 or so. One trick is to locate the gas pedal over the transmission hump. This allows you to stretch out your right leg a bit and be more comfortable. This is Reason 2 for buying the body and deck or bed before you begin work on a frame for your car. Mock up everything in wood, cardboard, etc. before making the final cuts and welds and assemblies. You won't regret it. ==Shifter Assemblies== Most T Buckets have automatic transmissions for a reason, there is not a lot of room for the clutch and shifter assemblies. It can be done, but you will have to make special provisions for it. Generally, a cable operated shifter is preferred with an automatic as it's easier to locate. a few have clutches though ==Parts Companies== *[http://www.thebrassworks.net Brassworks Polished T Bucket Radiators ] *www.TPerformance.com *Spirit Motors (Mountain Home AR) *Speedway Motors (Lincoln, NE) *Total Performance (Wallingford CT) *Car-Line Mfg. (Beaumont TX) *Snyder's Antique Auto Parts (New Springfield OH) *Rod 'n Race Fiberglass (Berkeley Springs, WV) *www.rodnrace.com Images to be sorted into position later http://www.rodandpiston.com/picview.asp?id=show/cruisindowns06&n=16 {{youcanedit}}

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