How to find an electrical drain

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'''OVERVIEW'''
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If your vehicle engine fails to crank over and start after sitting overnight or longer but will start and run when "jumped" you may be experiencing a parasitic draw. (an excessive power drain when the vehicle is turned off and not in use.)
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The test procedures below will help you to find the component(s) responsible if you are experiencing a parasitic draw. (electrical drain)
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Parasitic draws occur when a component of your vehicle continues to use power from your battery when the vehicle is not in use. The most common causes are user controlled devices. Although anything that uses power can potentially go bad and cause a draw, some of the more common items are, phone chargers left plugged into a power point, lights (interior or exterior)left turned on, lighted vanity mirrors, cigarette lighters, glove compartment light, and aftermarket accessories (radio amps,CB's) left powered on.
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'''ACCEPTABLE AMPERAGE DRAW'''
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Exact maximum allowable draw is determined by calculating several factors.
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But, as a general rule,the maximum should not exceed 50mA or .050 Amps'''
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# '''TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT'''
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## Battery Tester/Charger
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## Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) SET TO THE DC"AMP" SETTING
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## 12 volt test light
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## Proper hand tools to disconnect the negative battery cable
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## Suitable fuse puller (a small pair of needle nose pliers work well)
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## Wiring diagram of related circuits. (May need to obtain at a later time)
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# '''PRELIMINARY INSPECTION'''
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## Test your battery and verify that it is capable of holding and has a full charge.
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## Using the test light, check all fuses and replace any that are blown.
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## Do a visual inspection of common problems. (missing or loose ground wires, aftermarket radio or lights on a circuit always powered ON and not a switched circuit)
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### On older vehicles you can get in the vehicle with all doors closed and not worry about a time out interval. Perform an under dash visual inspection.
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### On most late model vehicles equipped with a Vehicle Control Module (VCM)and/or Body Control Module (BCM) there may be a time out interval.(A certain amount of time has to pass in order for the VCM and/or BCM to enter sleep mode where the computers will use less power.These are vehicle specific and you will need to consult a proper service manual.)
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## It is suggested that you consult the owners manual, if possible, in order to familiarize yourself with the location of all fuse boxes. You will also need to verify that you have a legend for the fuses telling you what amp fuse to use in each circuit and what components the fuse feeds power to. At this time you will also need to determine which fuse feeds power to the interior lights: often it is labeled "courtesy".
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# '''TESTING'''
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## Ignition key off and all doors closed, and, ALL aftermarket accessories turned OFF. If the vehicle is equipped with an under hood light you will need to disconnect the wires going to it or remove the bulb.  
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## Disconnect the negative battery cable.  
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## '''Connecting DVOM'''
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### Make sure the DVOM cables stay connected to their correct locations (and not touching any other part of the vehicle) throughout the entire testing procedure - except when instructed otherwise. If they become disconnected you will need to perform steps 3.2 through 3.4 again. Unless you have alligator clips or can secure your test probes you may need another person to help you perform these tests.
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### Connect the DVOM black cable(connected to the com port of the DVOM)to battery negative post
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### Connect the DVOM red cable (connected to the port labeled A) to the negative cable
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### Touch the negative cable end to the negative post of the battery for at least 15 seconds, then break the connection and let the meter reading become stable - record the reading.
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#### Was the reading .050 A or less?
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Yes - You are ''not'' experiencing an excessive power draw at this time.
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No  - It was higher: you have a confirmed power draw - continue with the next step.  
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Disconnect EITHER one of the DVOM cables. It is now safe for you to open the doors in order to gain access to the fuses. You will now need to remove the "courtesy" fuse, and perform step 3.4 again.
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# Did the reading remain the same or very close?
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Yes - it remained the same (it is still too high) - there is NOT a problem
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      in this courtesy light circuit. Continue testing.  
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No  - the amperage reading is LESS than before - there WAS an excessive power draw
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      in this circuit. THIS ''is'' the problem circuit.  
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If readings are STILL in the UNACCEPTABLE range after checking this circuit you will now begin the FUSE PANEL isolation portion of this procedure.  
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#Begin by pulling the FUSES one at a time while monitoring DVOM readings after each fuse is removed. When the amperage reading drops to an acceptable range, note the circuit it dropped on, set this fuse aside, and reinstall the fuses you already removed. Once all other fuses are installed verify the amperage is still BELOW specification. If so, now you will reinstall the fuse in the suspect circuit and continue to the DEVICE isolation portion of this test. The amperage will RISE (there IS an amperage draw) when you reinstall this last fuse.
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'''ISOLATING THE DEVICE'''
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Now that you know which circuit the draw is on, obtain a wiring diagram to determine what devices are powered by that circuit.
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#Begin the process of unplugging DEVICES (just like with the fuses, one at a time) until your meter drops into the acceptable range, when it does, you have found your culprit.
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#Replace that part (heater fan, cigarette lighter, etc) and perform step 3.4 again to verify repair: test now shows .050 amps or less.
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[[Category:Electrical]]

Revision as of 22:08, 26 April 2009

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