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| + | There are several methods for locating vacuum leaks. Occasionally, you may experience a vacuum leak into the intake ports from the crankcase of the motor due to the intake manifold / cylinder head interface not being machined parallel. No amount of propane or carburetor cleaner will find such a leak. The best way is to insure the elimination of such a problem while building the engine. See the wiki article: [[Manifold/Head vacuum leak, internal]]. |
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| + | #Get a soldering propane tank and valve attachment. |
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| + | #Unscrew the end of it so you have a threaded pipe without the nozzle. |
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| + | #Attach a 2 foot piece of hose to the end. |
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| + | #Start the engine and let it warm up a bit. |
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| + | #Turn on the propane and run the hose all around the vacuum lines and the bottom of the carb. |
| | + | #If the engine smooths out or revs up a bit, you have found your leak. |
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| | + | Hold bottle UPRIGHT during testing as liquid propane may run out of an inverted bottle. |
| | + | |
| | + | PLEASE do this in a well ventilated area due to propane gas and exhaust fumes!! |
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| | + | Fixing a leak. My old neighbor built circle track cars and after the ran the engine he would shut it off...tape off every opening with duct tape then put a hose over the dip stick and hook up to a vacuum source. He would then get his stethascope and listen in the area where the propane or carb fluid indicated a leak. he used Rtv and calked into the area until the stethascope whistle stopped. too much vacuum will pull too much calk into the hole. |
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| | + | =Carburetor cleaner method= |
| | + | #With the car running, using a can of carburetor cleaner spray down the hoses and vacuum connections. |
| | + | #Notice a change in the running of the engine and you might have found your leak. |
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| | + | [[Category:Engine]] |
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