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| + | {{needspics}} |
| | | | |
| − | This is the second part of finishing off your paint job. Doing this will bring out pure brilliance of the paint, while eliminating all impurities of the paint. | + | == Introduction == |
| | + | This is the second part of finishing off your paint job. Doing this will bring out the brilliance, while eliminating all impurities of the paint. |
| | | | |
| − | | + | == Basic concept == |
| − | == Basic Concept == | + | You've made the decision to finish your ride and it's going to be a show-quality paint job with "THE LOOK". Anyone can achieve the look; all it takes is some basic materials and lots of elbow grease. Sanding and buffing is the icing on the cake. It can be done and you can do it! |
| − | now you have made a choice,you are going to finish you ride and its going to be a show paint job,one question,is this all that you want or do you want the look!,everyone can get (the look),i have done it quite a few times and have pulled it off with good results,and (the look)took the show and people liked everything!.....the concept is just that (the look)and what it intails and what it holds for (u),its there you must pull all your power up from what ever is in your being and do it!....the sanding the body the paint the buffing is the icing on the cake,it can be done and you will do it,its just a kind of (style)you use and what you use and how you use it!,sounds like a game or some sort of game of chance doesnt it,or does it?,read on and see.............bourne51.
| + | |
| | | | |
| | == Wetsanding == | | == Wetsanding == |
| − | Alot of people dont think of the total value of a good wetsand job,its only when they start buffing is when they find out its back to the drawing board( usually, they did not do enought wetsanding). So let me get you guys and gals straight, in the process everyone calls-wet sanding, THIS is the way to get a SHOW FINISH. The people that have gotten t many awards for their cars and bikes will say BLOCK until YOU DROP is the name of the game! a lot of people use other methods but the (english type)is what i use.the method is condsidering the car bike or truck or whatever is stright and good pannels,correct paint just right ect. you can go for the finish,first out you must take a fender,side and flat parts, look to see how much you must re-flatten,cover all sharp corners with 1/2 inch tape(masking)and use,1000grit this is considering everything is in very good shape,clear is flat color right ect.you use (at least i do) a 5gal.bucket with one shot of dish soap,then blend it with the luc-warm water and sand until the surface is completely flat.i use a 3m squigi and pull back on the sanded surface and notice if any shine is present if it is flat go to the next area,do not over reach it will burn you out,also if the surface is still (unsanded),keep re-sanding the area until a flat simi gloss,flat surface is achived.the finer the paper the more simi gloss it will be.you keep doing this until the whole car is done with 1000,now you will have to do this on every grit-level you use!!! so now you will do the whole car in 1500,2000,2500,3000(yes there is a 3000 grit!!!),this is the way i get notice by the judges,and they see the finish and its right!,so this is how i do a sandjob,it will take anywere for one-week to 2 1/2 weeks to get it right but when its right! then you can buff it out with ease and not much pressure because the surface is pre-polished,and it only takes a bit of buffing to do the rest,so go for it the only thing is you must take the time to do it right!..(bourne51)........
| + | Many car owners underestimate the value of a good wetsand job. It's only when attempting to buff the paint that they discover it's back to the drawing board (usually, they did not do enough wetsanding). So let me instruct you guys and gals in the process of wet sanding. THIS is the way to get a SHOW FINISH as opposed to a "20-20" paint job (looks good 20 feet away at 20 mph). |
| | + | |
| | + | This method requires the vehicle panels to be straight and solid to begin with, and the paint to have been applied correctly. Start with a fender, side and flat parts and inspect them to see how much you must flatten. Cover all sharp corners with 1/2" masking tape and use 1000 grit wet/dry paper to begin, assuming everything is in very good shape: the clearcoat is flat, color is right, etc. |
| | + | [[File:Sanding-blocks.jpg|thumb|left|400px|Assorted sanding blocks and buffer with buffing compounds]] |
| | + | Use a 5 gallon bucket with a drop of dish soap, then blend it with lukewarm water. The dish soap will act as a wetting agent by removing the surface tension of the water, allowing the water to flow out on the panel instead of beading up. Use a good quality rubber sanding block and sand until the surface is completely flat. Use a 3M squeegee to clean the area, then stand back a little to inspect the sanded surface, and determine if any shine is present. The area must be kept clean and wet so squeegee it off frequently and dip your sanding block into the bucket often. If it's flat, go to the next area. |
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| | + | If the surface is still not flat and lacks a semi-gloss look, continue re-sanding the area until a semi-gloss, flat surface is achieved. The finer the paper, the more gloss to the semi-gloss will be seen. Continue doing this until the entire car is done with 1000. You must repeat this routine with every grit-level of paper you use!!! Now you will do the whole car in 1500, 2000, 2500, and 3000 grit. It will take anywhere from one week to 2 1/2 weeks to get it right. Then you can buff it out with ease using light pressure because the surface is pre-polished and it only takes a bit of buffing to do the rest. So go for it.<br style="clear:both"/> |
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| | + | == Buffing and polishing pads == |
| | + | There are many different types of buff or polishing heads. After the wetsanding routine all the way through 3000 grit paper, you can use a yellow buff foam pad that is stock with a plastic backing. These can be purchased at any car paint shop. You can trim off at least 1/2" of plastic around the outer back top of the plastic because it can hit the paint when you tilt the buff pad and cause a bad spot in the paint. |
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| | == Buffing and polishing compounds == | | == Buffing and polishing compounds == |
| | + | For the buffing compounds, first use a very fine 00-white buffing compound. It makes a mess but it works! |
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| | + | Choose an area to begin on and spread out a one-foot diameter spot of compound/water mix. Use half-speed on the buffer motor to prevent excessive heat build-up and resultant burning of the paint. Use light downward pressure to begin. Be particularly careful with the speed and pressure on higher areas of the panel, like fender creases. You can burn through the paint very easily and ruin the whole job. As the compound begins to dry up, clean off the spot and see how it looks. If it's still dull, wet it and go again with a little more speed. Do not use full speed until you get some experience. It's better to spend more time on a panel at a lower speed than to go full-bore the first time around and burn the paint. Once the gloss begins to come around, put a tablespoon of undiluted compound mix on the spot and buff again, moving the buff around the area back and forth while increasing the speed a little. The area should be very glossy by now. |
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| − | know that there are many types of buff heads and i use after pre-sanding 1000-3000 grit paper,a yellow buff foam pad-that is stock with a plastic backing you can find these at any car paint shop.i trim off at least 1/2 inch of plastic off the outer back top of the platic because it hits the paint at weird angles.now for the buffing compounds, i use 00-white buffing compound it is very fine 1% water,it makes a mess but it works!.now for the buff take a fender, you put the mix on a spot say 0ne foot dia and spread
| + | Wipe the area down with a clean rag and soap and water. Using a new buff pad, apply a line of non sealing glaze to the area and buff. (Usually brown in color. You don't want to use a pink sealing glaze until the paint is a month or so old). The buff should glide across the surface by now and result in a beautiful, smooth shine. |
| − | it on that spot,and start to buff,oh by the way your speed should be half speed at this time,start to buff watch to build heat slowly not to put too much poundage on the spot you have picked out.now that should be enought until you see it dry up clean off the spot and see how it looks, now if its dull re-do it and see if it is the same pull the speed up a little more until its right for the paint dont go full speed it might burn the paint and thats bad!!if by now you have done the right speed and buff mix then its time to finish this spot.first put an table spoon of full undiluded buff compound mix on the same spot and start to buff,feel the heat,move pad(buff-pad),back and forth and increase speed by using your thumb,on the speed knob,now you should see what you have it should be very glossy
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| − | and the look should be close.keep doing this until everything is glossy and nice,after this its time to wipe down with a clean rag and soap and water,and use a breathing glase,(usually brown in color),not pink,pink does seal the paint you dont want to do any sealing until a month or more paint must breath.put a line of mix on the fender and buff,it should glide over the surface and really be nice by this time.now do the whole car like this and you will have a nice buff.
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| | == Buffers, which ones to use == | | == Buffers, which ones to use == |
| − | | + | Before you buff out impurities in the paint, you must first get the right power unit to properly buff the paint. Some use a Makita brand multi-speed buffer. Yes, the rotary buffers may LOOK like a regular angle grinder, but they aren't. The buffer has a trigger that varies the speed of the wheel, while almost all angle grinders are either all or nothing. Different speeds must be applied to different surface areas; so you absolutely need a multi-speed type. |
| − | Before you buff-out impurities in the paint, you must first get the right power unit to properly buff the paint. Some use a Mikita brand multi-speed buffer. Yes, the rotary buffers may LOOK like a regular angle grinder, it ISN'T. The buffer has a trigger that varies the speed of the wheel, an angle grinder is eiether all or nothing. The speed must be applied to diffrent surface areas,so you absolutely need a multi-speed type. | + | |
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| | == Buffing wheels and bonnets == | | == Buffing wheels and bonnets == |
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| | + | [[Category:Body and exterior]] |
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