Fiberglassing
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===Polyester resin=== | ===Polyester resin=== | ||
| − | + | ====Hardening time==== | |
| + | You can adjust the hardening time of polyester resin somewhat by altering the amount of MEKP hardener you add. The more hardener, the faster it sets. You can add too little hardener and it will never set. However, there is a wide range of hardener concentrations that work fine. If you have a piece that isn't setting due to cold weather or short hardener you can set the piece in direct sunlight. UV radiation will set off this resin seems like no matter how much hardener is used. Be careful with this though, the resin setting chemistry gives off a lot of heat and too thick a part, too much hardener and/or solar acceleration can get the thing smoking and even start a fire! | ||
| − | ====Ortho==== | + | Polyester resin is used for 99.99% of hotrodding tasks. It comes in several types: |
| + | |||
| + | ====Types of polyester resin==== | ||
| + | =====Ortho===== | ||
Made with orthopthalic acid, ortho is what you get if you don't specify anything else. Fine for most everything in hotrodding. | Made with orthopthalic acid, ortho is what you get if you don't specify anything else. Fine for most everything in hotrodding. | ||
| − | ====Iso==== | + | =====Iso===== |
Made with isopthalic acid, it bonds a little better than ortho but costs more. Again ortho is fine for most hotrodding work. An added benefit to using "iso" resin is that it is more heat resistant than ortho resin, it will withstand 210°F as opposed to 170°F for most ortho resins. Iso resin is also called "tooling" resin, because it is designed for moldmaking, and can withstand many heat/cool cycles and remain dimensionally stable. | Made with isopthalic acid, it bonds a little better than ortho but costs more. Again ortho is fine for most hotrodding work. An added benefit to using "iso" resin is that it is more heat resistant than ortho resin, it will withstand 210°F as opposed to 170°F for most ortho resins. Iso resin is also called "tooling" resin, because it is designed for moldmaking, and can withstand many heat/cool cycles and remain dimensionally stable. | ||
| − | ====Waxed resin==== | + | =====Waxed resin===== |
Be sure you check whether you have "laminating" or "finish coat" resin. The former is just plain resin, and is used for laying up several layers. Every layer will stick to the previous one very well. The latter contains a wax that floats to the surface of the finished part and, if used in laminating layers, will prevent the layers from bonding, causing part failure. These two resin mixtures are necessary. Polyester resin will harden all the way through except for the very outer surface which is exposed to oxygen. This exposure prevents the resin from hardening and results in an irritating sticky feel to the surface. Using the waxed resin in the final layer allows the wax to float to the surface, insulate the surface from oxygen, allowing it to fully harden. One option is to only use laminating resin, and sand off the outer surface, or prime it, which seals and hardens it. No biggie, don't worry about it, just be careful to not laminate with finishing resin! Another common name for this resin is "sanding resin". | Be sure you check whether you have "laminating" or "finish coat" resin. The former is just plain resin, and is used for laying up several layers. Every layer will stick to the previous one very well. The latter contains a wax that floats to the surface of the finished part and, if used in laminating layers, will prevent the layers from bonding, causing part failure. These two resin mixtures are necessary. Polyester resin will harden all the way through except for the very outer surface which is exposed to oxygen. This exposure prevents the resin from hardening and results in an irritating sticky feel to the surface. Using the waxed resin in the final layer allows the wax to float to the surface, insulate the surface from oxygen, allowing it to fully harden. One option is to only use laminating resin, and sand off the outer surface, or prime it, which seals and hardens it. No biggie, don't worry about it, just be careful to not laminate with finishing resin! Another common name for this resin is "sanding resin". | ||
====Gel coat==== | ====Gel coat==== | ||
| − | This is resin filled with a high solids, usually colored pigment. It can either serve as a primered surface to be sanded and painted or as in the case of boats, can be the final colored finish. It is sprayed in a polished female mold without reinforcement, then 'glas is laminated on it. It is much softer than plain resin and works like a sanding primer. Good stuff. | + | This is resin filled with a high solids, usually colored pigment. It can either serve as a primered surface to be sanded and painted or as in the case of boats, can be the final colored finish. It is sprayed in a polished female mold without reinforcement, then 'glas is laminated on it. It is much softer than plain resin and works like a sanding primer. Good stuff. |
===Epoxy=== | ===Epoxy=== | ||
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