|
|
| Line 17: |
Line 17: |
| | | | |
| | If you can access the nut, try hitting each flat of the nut with a drift punch and ball peen hammer. | | If you can access the nut, try hitting each flat of the nut with a drift punch and ball peen hammer. |
| − |
| |
| − | If I could have only one chemical tool, it would be "Liquid Wrench". Note that when trying to loosen rusty parts, it's important to first remove as much of the rust as possible with a wire brush. Once it's as clean as a wire brush will get it, apply Liquid Wrench, then give the piece repeated light taps with a hammer for ten or fifteen seconds; this helps work the Liquid Wrench into the crevices. Wait two minutes, then repeat the Liquid Wrench/tapping procedure. After repeating the procedure 3 or 4 times, THEN try to loosen it with one swift blow. Sometimes it won't work, but the majority of the time, your patience will allow you to not only remove the rusted nuts and bolts, but to possibly even reuse them.
| |
| − |
| |
| − | Many people recommend "PB Blaster", which led to me trying it - it did an excellent job for me. An overnight soak-in is an important step.
| |
| − |
| |
| − | *Note: DO NOT use PB Blaster near any gaskets or seals. This chemical, although it does do an amazing job, will eat your seals up in no time. Do not let it get anywhere near your engine compartment, unless you WANT to be replacing every seal between the can and the ground.
| |
| | | | |
| | ==Smack it with a hammer #2== | | ==Smack it with a hammer #2== |
Your Privacy Choices