Removing stuck fasteners
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In theory, there should be nothing to stop you finger-tightening a bolt until it's snug, or easily loosening a bolt once it has been fastened snugly. In practice, it's often quite hard to turn some bolts or loosen other bolts, even when they are slack. The reason for this is that dirt gets stuck in the bolt threads, and it gets trapped when you start tightening the bolt, making it harder to turn. This is a warning sign -- if you can't finger tighten a bolt until it's snug then there is something wrong. If you are trying to put a bolt in, then take it out and clean the threads. If you are trying to loosen or remove a stuck bolt, see if you can access the end of the bolt (opposite end of the bolt head). Put a little grease on the threads before you try again. It's a bad idea to get out the spanner wrench early on to try tightening a bolt that isn't turning smoothly. Even if you get it tightened, that dirt is still in the threads, and it's quite likely that it'll jam the threads when you try to next remove the bolt. | In theory, there should be nothing to stop you finger-tightening a bolt until it's snug, or easily loosening a bolt once it has been fastened snugly. In practice, it's often quite hard to turn some bolts or loosen other bolts, even when they are slack. The reason for this is that dirt gets stuck in the bolt threads, and it gets trapped when you start tightening the bolt, making it harder to turn. This is a warning sign -- if you can't finger tighten a bolt until it's snug then there is something wrong. If you are trying to put a bolt in, then take it out and clean the threads. If you are trying to loosen or remove a stuck bolt, see if you can access the end of the bolt (opposite end of the bolt head). Put a little grease on the threads before you try again. It's a bad idea to get out the spanner wrench early on to try tightening a bolt that isn't turning smoothly. Even if you get it tightened, that dirt is still in the threads, and it's quite likely that it'll jam the threads when you try to next remove the bolt. | ||
| − | Most stuck fasteners are stuck because of corrosion -- usually [[rust]]. There are | + | ==Methods for removing stuck/frozen fasteners== |
| + | Most stuck fasteners are stuck because of corrosion -- usually [[rust]]. There are at least three effective methods to break loose a fastener: | ||
| + | *Mechanical movement -- often simply a whack with a hammer. | ||
| + | *Differential heating -- making one part expand more than the other. | ||
| + | *Chemical penetrants. | ||
| + | ==Mechanical means== | ||
===Tighten, then loosen=== | ===Tighten, then loosen=== | ||
In some cases simply tightening the fastener and then loosening it will do the trick. In some cases, wiggling the fastener back and forth may be helpful. | In some cases simply tightening the fastener and then loosening it will do the trick. In some cases, wiggling the fastener back and forth may be helpful. | ||
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If you can access the nut, try hitting each flat of the nut with a drift punch and ball peen hammer. | If you can access the nut, try hitting each flat of the nut with a drift punch and ball peen hammer. | ||
| − | ==Smack it with a hammer #2== | + | ===Smack it with a hammer #2=== |
This method is useful when dealing with a bolt that is rusted very tightly. A lot of people will get a wrench or ratchet and push against it with a steady force. Doing this will more than likely break off the bolt head of a rusty bolt. | This method is useful when dealing with a bolt that is rusted very tightly. A lot of people will get a wrench or ratchet and push against it with a steady force. Doing this will more than likely break off the bolt head of a rusty bolt. | ||
The best thing to do is to get a wrench or ratchet on it, and either hit it with your hand or a hammer several times. The sudden force will break the bolt loose with less of a chance of twisting off the head. | The best thing to do is to get a wrench or ratchet on it, and either hit it with your hand or a hammer several times. The sudden force will break the bolt loose with less of a chance of twisting off the head. | ||
| − | Some times a home made impact wrench will work, get a cheap wrench that fits tight and hit it with a hammer watching carefully that it isn't coming off the fastener. It's important when loosening this way to use a tight fitting wrench as a loose fitting one will round the bolt head. | + | Some times a home made impact wrench will work, get a cheap wrench that fits tight and hit it with a hammer watching carefully that it isn't coming off the fastener. It's important when loosening this way to use a tight fitting wrench like a 6-point box end, as a loose fitting one will round the bolt head. |
| − | ==Tap it for a few minutes== | + | ===Tap it for a few minutes=== |
| − | Lightly tap on rusted fasteners for several minutes, apply a little penetrating oil, lightly tap a little more, | + | Lightly tap on rusted fasteners for several minutes, apply a little penetrating oil, lightly tap a little more, then remove the rusted fastener. |
| − | ==Metric method== | + | ===Metric method=== |
Hammer a close-fitting metric socket tightly on a SAE nut, or vice-versa. Then use breaker bar socket wrench (or longest you can fit in a cramped space) to turn it. | Hammer a close-fitting metric socket tightly on a SAE nut, or vice-versa. Then use breaker bar socket wrench (or longest you can fit in a cramped space) to turn it. | ||
| − | There is a product that works basically the same way, but the inside of the sockets are lined with sharpened flutes that are also angled to dig further into the rusted nut or bolt as you turn the wrench. These are called BOLT EXTRACTOR sockets, and bite extremely well into round and rusty bolts and nuts, as the flutes are sharp and point counter clockwise. Think of what you would get if you made a mold of an extractor drill bit. | + | There is a product that works basically the same way, but the inside of the sockets are lined with sharpened flutes that are also angled to dig further into the rusted nut or bolt as you turn the wrench. These are called BOLT EXTRACTOR sockets, and bite extremely well into round and rusty bolts and nuts, as the flutes are sharp and point counter clockwise. Think of what you would get if you made a mold of an extractor drill bit. See [[Removing stuck fasteners# Special tools|Special tools section]]. |
| − | ==Hot and cold== | + | ==Differential heating== |
| + | ===Hot and cold=== | ||
This method uses alternating heating and cooling. The resulting expansion and contraction is thought to break a fastener loose from the grip of rust. | This method uses alternating heating and cooling. The resulting expansion and contraction is thought to break a fastener loose from the grip of rust. | ||
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*Too much heat will destroy the temper of the bolt. Important bolts (brakes) should then be replaced with new as the untempered one if reused could fail. | *Too much heat will destroy the temper of the bolt. Important bolts (brakes) should then be replaced with new as the untempered one if reused could fail. | ||
| − | == Heat the Nut Method == | + | ===Heat the Nut Method=== |
Heat the '''nut''' with a torch until red hot, cool the bolt with a good shot of spray-on rust remover then remove the nut while still hot. Heating the nut thermally expands it, while the rust remover (which is a refrigerant) thermally contracts the bolt. Be careful and use gloves as the nut and your wrench will be hot. | Heat the '''nut''' with a torch until red hot, cool the bolt with a good shot of spray-on rust remover then remove the nut while still hot. Heating the nut thermally expands it, while the rust remover (which is a refrigerant) thermally contracts the bolt. Be careful and use gloves as the nut and your wrench will be hot. | ||
| − | + | ===The heat and paraffin wax method=== | |
| − | ==The heat and paraffin wax method== | + | |
#Heat the bolt with a torch. | #Heat the bolt with a torch. | ||
#Touch the threads with paraffin wax. Ensure that the bolt is situated such that the wax will run down into the mating threads. | #Touch the threads with paraffin wax. Ensure that the bolt is situated such that the wax will run down into the mating threads. | ||
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#Let the welded nut cool completely without using any water or spray. The bolt will contract and break the grip of the rust. | #Let the welded nut cool completely without using any water or spray. The bolt will contract and break the grip of the rust. | ||
| − | Some more info on welding on nuts. | + | ===Some more info on welding on nuts.=== |
| − | A tig welder is the welder of choice. | + | *A tig welder is the welder of choice. |
| − | It is critical to put some penetration oil like Kroil (and not WD-40) on as it cools just low enough for the oil to not just boil off. This will draw oil into the hole. This is the only time I have seen penetrating oil actually penetrate a stuck bolt. | + | *It is critical to put some penetration oil like Kroil (and not WD-40) on as it cools just low enough for the oil to not just boil off. This will draw oil into the hole. This is the only time I have seen penetrating oil actually penetrate a stuck bolt. |
==Penetrating and lubricating oils== | ==Penetrating and lubricating oils== | ||
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Many people recommend "PB Blaster", which led to me trying it - it did an excellent job for me. An overnight soak-in is an important step. | Many people recommend "PB Blaster", which led to me trying it - it did an excellent job for me. An overnight soak-in is an important step. | ||
| − | + | ===Some recommended penetrating oils=== | |
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| − | ==Some recommended penetrating oils== | + | |
*Acetone mixed with ATF | *Acetone mixed with ATF | ||
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*An impact driver can be used to loosen frozen nuts or bolts. Hand-held impact drivers typically have slotted and Phillips headed bits, as well as a socket fitting. The bit or socket is placed on the stuck fastener, and the other end of the impact driver is struck with a hammer. The impact of the hammer strike loosens the fastener, the downward force keeps the bit in its place, and the impact driver turns the force of the hammer strike into a sudden torque on the stuck fastener. | *An impact driver can be used to loosen frozen nuts or bolts. Hand-held impact drivers typically have slotted and Phillips headed bits, as well as a socket fitting. The bit or socket is placed on the stuck fastener, and the other end of the impact driver is struck with a hammer. The impact of the hammer strike loosens the fastener, the downward force keeps the bit in its place, and the impact driver turns the force of the hammer strike into a sudden torque on the stuck fastener. | ||
*[http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&pid=00952166000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Bolt-Out%2C+Taps+%26+Dies&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes Craftsman 10 pc. Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set, Low Profile Bolt-Out Sears item #00952166000]. They are useful for when the bolt head is rounded off, or there is no room to beat a socket or wrench on to it, or when a torch is not available. | *[http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&pid=00952166000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Bolt-Out%2C+Taps+%26+Dies&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes Craftsman 10 pc. Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set, Low Profile Bolt-Out Sears item #00952166000]. They are useful for when the bolt head is rounded off, or there is no room to beat a socket or wrench on to it, or when a torch is not available. | ||
| − | *Another good brand of bolt extractor is | + | *Another good brand of bolt extractor is named '''Extractor''', it has a little bit more "bite" than the Craftsman and Irwin extractor tools. |
| − | [[File: DAMAGED-FROZEN_BOLT_REMOVAL_SOCKETS.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Damaged or frozen fastener removal sockets]] | + | *Hotrodders forum thread on the [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/does-work-grabit-seen-tv-155731.html "GrabIt"] extractor tool, as seen on a late-night infomercial. |
| − | + | [[File: DAMAGED-FROZEN_BOLT_REMOVAL_SOCKETS.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Damaged or frozen fastener removal sockets]]<br style="clear:both"/> | |
| − | + | ===The following is instructions for making an impact-type device that works on a screw that has a stripped head.=== | |
| − | + | *Get an aircraft rivet gun (note: not a tubing cutter, they're too fast) that has less than 2000 b.p.m. (blows per minute). | |
| − | + | *Get one of the rivet gun sets, and weld a piece of 3/4" hex stock to the working end of the set then weld an apex tip holder to the hex stock (of course you need an air compressor, 100 psi is just fine). | |
| − | + | *Put a Phillips tip in the apex holder (prior to that grind a little off the tip as they usually are slightly too long; this will allow the tip to drop farther into the screw head so it will pick up what is left of the flutes in the head). | |
| − | + | *Put the whole thing together and insert the tip into the screw head. Slowly pull the trigger on the rivet gun, while at the same time putting pressure on the box end wrench you have installed on the hex part of your tool, making sure to keep pressure on the gun handle so it won't jump out of the work. | |
| − | + | *One word of caution -- even though this works almost 100% of the time, it is possible (if the screw is into a plate nut) to drive the plate nut off its mount. | |
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==Tips for broken-off bolt heads== | ==Tips for broken-off bolt heads== | ||
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*Take a 12-point socket that is just larger than the shaft of the bolt, and beat it down onto the bolt with a hammer. Turn it out with a ratchet. When finished, put the socket in a vice, and tap out the broken bolt. | *Take a 12-point socket that is just larger than the shaft of the bolt, and beat it down onto the bolt with a hammer. Turn it out with a ratchet. When finished, put the socket in a vice, and tap out the broken bolt. | ||
*If a bolt is broken off below the surface, build it up with a welder until there is enough to which to weld a nut. If this breaks off try it again, this method is the best, the heat and cool cycle of the tig weld will loosen the fastener in the stuck piece. | *If a bolt is broken off below the surface, build it up with a welder until there is enough to which to weld a nut. If this breaks off try it again, this method is the best, the heat and cool cycle of the tig weld will loosen the fastener in the stuck piece. | ||
| − | + | *Center punch the broken bolt and drill the bolt head using a left hand drill bit about half the diameter of the bolt. As the bolt head is drilled, most of the time the bit will bite into the bolt head and spin the broken bolt out. | |
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==Miscellaneous tips== | ==Miscellaneous tips== | ||
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*Where access allows, put a box end wrench over a stripped nut or hex bolt head, then use a center punch on the corners of the hex to spread the metal and wedge it in the wrench. | *Where access allows, put a box end wrench over a stripped nut or hex bolt head, then use a center punch on the corners of the hex to spread the metal and wedge it in the wrench. | ||
*If the bolt or stud breaks off below the surface, try this method. Using a high grade bolt of same size, grind off the threaded end until the bolt will fit into the hole and touch the broken bolt. Using an electric welder, clamp the "electrode" bolt in the stinger. This works best if someone is there to help you by turning the welder on and off. With the stinger bolt inserted into the broken bolt hole and firmly against the broken bolt, have the power turned on just long enough to fuse the stinger bolt to the broken one. You might want to practice this technique on the bench to get the power and timing right. Once they have cooled for a few minutes, but are still hot enough to burn skin, place a wrench on the slave bolt and turn them out. | *If the bolt or stud breaks off below the surface, try this method. Using a high grade bolt of same size, grind off the threaded end until the bolt will fit into the hole and touch the broken bolt. Using an electric welder, clamp the "electrode" bolt in the stinger. This works best if someone is there to help you by turning the welder on and off. With the stinger bolt inserted into the broken bolt hole and firmly against the broken bolt, have the power turned on just long enough to fuse the stinger bolt to the broken one. You might want to practice this technique on the bench to get the power and timing right. Once they have cooled for a few minutes, but are still hot enough to burn skin, place a wrench on the slave bolt and turn them out. | ||
| − | *For removing stubborn Phillips-head screws, wet the tip of the screwdriver or screwdriver bit, a little bit of spit will do, and dip the bit into | + | *For removing stubborn Phillips-head screws, wet the tip of the screwdriver or screwdriver bit, a little bit of spit will do, and dip the bit into some valve grinding compound or abrasive cleanser like Comet or Ajax. Use enough to cover the tip of the screwdriver. The abrasive gives the tip of the screwdriver a little added "bite" and it's less likely to slip out of the screw. |
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*If you break off the head of the bolt, grind the remainder out with care using a TrueBite carbide bit and a high-speed rotary tool (Dremel MotoTool or some such) - see http://www.truebite.com/remove/ for details and instructions. | *If you break off the head of the bolt, grind the remainder out with care using a TrueBite carbide bit and a high-speed rotary tool (Dremel MotoTool or some such) - see http://www.truebite.com/remove/ for details and instructions. | ||
| − | + | *With heating, bear in mind axles and other important structures may lose their strength if they are heated much above 300 degrees. If you have the oil and grease starting to smoke, then you are in the 300-plus degree range. | |
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| − | *With heating, bear in mind axles and other important structures may lose their strength if they are heated much above 300 degrees. If you have the oil and grease starting to smoke, then you are in the 300-degree range. | + | |
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*When taking off cylinder head studs, look at the base. If you see erosion into the stud at the block surface, odds are pretty good you will break the stud. | *When taking off cylinder head studs, look at the base. If you see erosion into the stud at the block surface, odds are pretty good you will break the stud. | ||
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*Whatever system you use, once you have a hold of the bolt, stud, or whatever, try rocking it forward and reverse a little at a time. If you can get it to move, it is more likely to come out. An older mechanic said always try to tighten a little before you loosen. Remember, if it moves, you are half way home. Also, brake fluid works great as a penetration oil. | *Whatever system you use, once you have a hold of the bolt, stud, or whatever, try rocking it forward and reverse a little at a time. If you can get it to move, it is more likely to come out. An older mechanic said always try to tighten a little before you loosen. Remember, if it moves, you are half way home. Also, brake fluid works great as a penetration oil. | ||
| − | + | *Use the largest cobalt drill bit (that almost just covers the top rim of the nut) to drill through the nut- parallel to the bolt- then used a chisel to turn/peel the nut off of the bolt. | |
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==References== | ==References== | ||
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[[Category:Fasteners]] | [[Category:Fasteners]] | ||
[[Category:Good articles]] | [[Category:Good articles]] | ||
| + | [[Category:Garage and shop]] | ||
| + | [[Category:General hotrodding]] | ||
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