Battery tray with hold down
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| − | == | + | ==OEM Battery trays and retainers== |
| + | The battery needs to be securely held down so it cannot bounce around and become damaged internally, or worse, break open and leak sulfuric acid into the engine compartment. | ||
| − | [[Image:Battery hold down.JPG]] | + | The factory battery tray often gets rusted out, but replacements are available for popular makes/models. The hold down used by the factory aren't usually the heaviest-duty parts you'll ever see, but are adequate for what they were originally intended. |
| + | [[Image:Battery hold down.JPG|thumb|left|300px|OEM tray and hold down]][[Image:Rust at battery tray old versus new.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Old tray vs. new tray]] | ||
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| + | ==Trunk-mounted battery== | ||
| + | In many cases, there's a considerable advantage in weight distribution in mounting the battery or batteries in the trunk, over the right rear axle centerline- but not behind. If this is done, there are considerations that have to be dealt with for how the battery box is held down, how the lid is secured, and how it's vented and whether or not a fire wall is needed between the battery and passenger compartment. This is necessary both from a practical standpoint as well as conforming to NHRA rules. | ||
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| + | [[File:Trunk mount battery kit.jpg|left|frame|Trunk mounted battery kit from Jegs]] | ||
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| + | ==Using a remote solenoid== | ||
| + | When the battery is trunk-mounted, it's a good idea to use a [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Remote_Ford_solenoid_for_GM-_no_hot_start remote Ford solenoid/relay]. This will keep the run of heavy cable to the starter from being always "hot". | ||
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| + | [[File:REMOTE RELAY.jpg|frame|left|Basic wiring diagram for remote solenoid]] | ||
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[[Category:Electrical]] | [[Category:Electrical]] | ||
[[Category:Undeveloped articles]] | [[Category:Undeveloped articles]] | ||
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