How to rebuild an engine
(→Work area) |
(→Removal) |
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<em>Engine hoist -- A device for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and fuel lines that you forgot to disconnect.</em> | <em>Engine hoist -- A device for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and fuel lines that you forgot to disconnect.</em> | ||
| − | *If you have a digital camera, Now would be a good time to take many good photos before you pull it down, for Installation reference. For more information on documenting your project, see: [[How to document your project]]. | + | *If you have a digital camera, Now would be a good time to take many good photos before you pull it down, for Installation reference,i.e. brackets and wiring. For more information on documenting your project, see: [[How to document your project]]. |
| − | *Disconnect | + | *Disconnect the battery. |
| − | * | + | *Use baggies for ALL your nuts and bolts, and label them. |
| − | *Remove the | + | *Remove the hood. |
*Be sure to drain any fluids beforehand, to keep from making a mess, and to be friendly to the environment | *Be sure to drain any fluids beforehand, to keep from making a mess, and to be friendly to the environment | ||
| − | * | + | *Remove the fan, fan shroud, and water hoses (drain and dispose of coolant properly; it's poisonous to humans and animals). You may also want to remove the radiator, but if you are careful, it is not necessary. |
| − | * | + | *Disconnect fuel lines, vacuum lines (mark termination and make a written list), wiring (mark termination and make a written list), belts, and pulleys that may be in the way. |
*Place a jack under the transmission to keep it upright in the vehicle, unless you are removing it as well. | *Place a jack under the transmission to keep it upright in the vehicle, unless you are removing it as well. | ||
*If you plan on removing the transmission, don't forget any linkages, backup lamp switches, neutral safety switches (some are transmission-mounted), modulator valve vacuum lines, TCC control wiring, and the speedometer cable (or speed transducer and wires). Cover any holes with tape. | *If you plan on removing the transmission, don't forget any linkages, backup lamp switches, neutral safety switches (some are transmission-mounted), modulator valve vacuum lines, TCC control wiring, and the speedometer cable (or speed transducer and wires). Cover any holes with tape. | ||
*Fit a plastic bag over the tailshaft, and duct tape it after you remove the driveshaft. This will keep residual oil in, and dirt out. | *Fit a plastic bag over the tailshaft, and duct tape it after you remove the driveshaft. This will keep residual oil in, and dirt out. | ||
| − | * | + | *Be sure that whatever you are using to lift the engine is strong enough to lift more than the weight of the engine safely, and is on a completely level surface. If outriggers are provided, use them. Be absolutely certain that the lift can not roll on its own, or become unbalanced side-to-side. |
| + | *Use some type of lift ring on the engine, such as a plate that bolts to where the carburetor was. For easier engine removal, the [http://www.myks-tools.com/ Engine Hoist Pivot Plate] has been recommended. | ||
*Be sure to use padded fender protectors; a strike from ring gear teeth can do serious body and fender damage. | *Be sure to use padded fender protectors; a strike from ring gear teeth can do serious body and fender damage. | ||
| + | *Jack engine up slightly, and remove the bolts to the motor mounts and the transmission bell-housing (unless you are removing the transmission also). | ||
=== Transportation === | === Transportation === | ||
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