Starter motors
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First, the 12-3/4" 153 tooth flywheel uses a starter with the bolt holes across from each other, 90 degrees to the crankshaft. The larger 14" 168 tooth flywheel uses a starter w/the holes offset diagonally from one another (see drawing below). | First, the 12-3/4" 153 tooth flywheel uses a starter with the bolt holes across from each other, 90 degrees to the crankshaft. The larger 14" 168 tooth flywheel uses a starter w/the holes offset diagonally from one another (see drawing below). | ||
| − | Blocks from about 1962 up are drilled with three holes for either starter. | + | Blocks from about 1962-up are drilled with three holes for either starter. The only two engines that may may not have the mounting holes to use either starter (other than the early blocks that used a bellhousing mounted starter) are the 200/229 ci 90 degree V6 Chevy and the SBC 400. The 229 V6 may have only the side by side bolt holes and not enough "meat" to drill the offset hole. The SBC 400 may have only the offset holes. It can be drilled for the other missing hole- but this needs to be carefully done for obvious reasons. |
| + | [[File:STARTER_MOUNTING_HOLES_BLOCK_PASSENGER_SIDE.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Chevy starter bolt hole locations for 168T and 153T]] <br style="clear:both"/> | ||
| − | + | To prevent broken starter noses or cracked block mounting holes, always use a starter brace and knurled attaching bolts as sold by GM. Torque the starter mounting bolts to 35 ft/lb. | |
| − | + | ==What to do if the block is broken== | |
| + | There is a fix for engine blocks that have unrepairable cracks or breaks where the starter mounts to the block. Shown below is an adaptor plate and spacer that can be used to mount the early type bellhousing mounted starter to a later block. It can save a block that would be otherwise either junk or requiring expensive and time consuming welding to fix. | ||
| − | [[File: | + | [[File:Starter adaptor plate.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Adaptor (Danchuck p/n 10100) used to mount a bellhousing-mounted starter on a block-mounted starter block]] <br style="clear:both"/> |
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| + | In addition, there may be a cast iron starter nose that has all three mounting holes on the nose. If that's the case and there are at least two of the three mounting holes intact, it may be able to solve the problem. But if the outermost bolt hole is the one damaged, the two bolt holes left are very close together, causing the starter to be less secure than it would be if using the bolt holes further apart. In that case (and in ANY case) the need for a starter brace that mounts to the starter and block is mandatory. | ||
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| + | There are aftermarket high torque/gear reduction-type starters that have four holes. They are made to be used with either the 153 or 168 tooth flywheel, depending on which set of holes are used. This will work if there are the two side-by-side starter mounting holes intact, but often the outermost bolt hole is the one that's missing or damaged. | ||
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