Head gasket

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===O-ring sealing===
 
===O-ring sealing===
To accomplish combustion sealing with standard copper head gaskets, grooves are machined into the block or the head outside of the combustion sealing area to a width that will retain a stainless wire by friction resistance, the depth of the groove is determined by subtracting the desired protrusion (height) of the installed o-ring from the wire diameter. Stainless steel wire (most often .041" diameter) is then seated into the groove by tapping with a soft faced hammer or other tool such as plastic or wood (hard faced hammers can cause dents which create combustion leakage paths). It is advisable to begin and end the o-ring nearest a bolt location to take full sealing advantage of increased loading near the bolt upon the joint in the o-ring.  
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To accomplish combustion sealing with standard copper head gaskets, grooves are machined into the block or the head outside of the combustion sealing area to a width that will retain a stainless wire by friction resistance, the depth of the groove is determined by subtracting the desired protrusion (height) of the installed O-ring from the wire diameter. Stainless steel wire (most often .041" diameter) is then seated into the groove by tapping with a soft faced hammer or other tool such as plastic or wood (hard faced hammers can cause dents which create combustion leakage paths). It is advisable to begin and end the O-ring nearest a bolt location to take full sealing advantage of increased loading near the bolt upon the joint in the O-ring.  
  
Although copper is a relatively soft material, there is a limit to which it can be displaced by an o-ring. Generally speaking, this limit is about 25% of the gasket thickness. For instance, with a 0.032" thick gasket, you would want to limit the height of the o-ring to about 0.008" above the head or deck surface. For an 0.043" thick head gasket which is the most common thickness, set the o-ring protrusion at 0.010", for an 0.050" thick gasket about 0.012", for an 0.062" thick gasket about 0.015" and so forth. If the groove is cut into the head for the wire, a "receiver groove" can be machined into the block. If the groove is cut into the block deck for the wire, then a receiver groove can be machined into the head surface. When the head is bolted to the block, the wire pushes some of the copper up into the receiver groove and makes a very effective seal. However most street/strip applications do not require receiver grooves, receiver grooves are only required on the most extreme racing applications.  
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Although copper is a relatively soft material, there is a limit to which it can be displaced by an O-ring. Generally speaking, this limit is about 25% of the gasket thickness. For instance, with a 0.032" thick gasket, you would want to limit the height of the O-ring to about 0.008" above the head or deck surface. For an 0.043" thick head gasket which is the most common thickness, set the o-ring protrusion at 0.010", for an 0.050" thick gasket about 0.012", for an 0.062" thick gasket about 0.015" and so forth. If the groove is cut into the head for the wire, a "receiver groove" can be machined into the block. If the groove is cut into the block deck for the wire, then a receiver groove can be machined into the head surface. When the head is bolted to the block, the wire pushes some of the copper up into the receiver groove and makes a very effective seal. However most street/strip applications do not require receiver grooves, receiver grooves are only required on the most extreme racing applications.  
  
 
You'll also need a good sealer around the water passages (K&W Copper Coat is easy to use and easy to find). Copper head gaskets can be re-used several times, simply use a solvent such as acetone, carb cleaner, or brake cleaner to remove any sealant and inspect the area of the gaskets around the combustion seal to insure that there is no 'carbon tracking' which will appear as a shadow on the head gaskets; this is evidence of combustion leaking. If combustion leakage has occurred, the gasket(s) must be replaced.
 
You'll also need a good sealer around the water passages (K&W Copper Coat is easy to use and easy to find). Copper head gaskets can be re-used several times, simply use a solvent such as acetone, carb cleaner, or brake cleaner to remove any sealant and inspect the area of the gaskets around the combustion seal to insure that there is no 'carbon tracking' which will appear as a shadow on the head gaskets; this is evidence of combustion leaking. If combustion leakage has occurred, the gasket(s) must be replaced.
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Gasket Works makes a stainless steel O-ring that is only 0.004" thick and eliminates the need to groove the block or head. See more [http://www.headgasket.com/images/olympic%20rings.jpg here].
  
 
=====Modern copper head gaskets=====
 
=====Modern copper head gaskets=====
SCE Gaskets makes copper head gaskets with coolant and oil passage seals bonded to the sealing surfaces of the head gaskets. These built-in seals eliminate the need for additional sealants; these head gaskets are installed dry and there are two versions available: one for engines with machined o-ring combustion seals and one for those without o-rings. The copper head gasket offered by SCE for engines without machined o-rings includes both coolant seals and an Integral Combustion Seal which eliminates the need to have o-ring grooves machined into the block or heads. Development of these head gaskets allow users to exploit the benefits of of copper, wide range of thicknesses, superior strength, superior combustion sealing, conformability to deck surfaces and superior heat conductivity, with none of the prior disadvantages of 'old fashioned' copper head gaskets.  
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There are several manufacturers of copper head gaskets. Among them is . Copper gaskets come in many thicknesses, and in most cases are reusable. [http://www.scegaskets.com/page/sitemap.html SCE Gaskets] makes the Titan ICS (Integral Combustion Seal) copper head gaskets with coolant and oil passage seals bonded to the sealing surfaces of the head gaskets. These built-in seals eliminate the need for additional sealants. These head gaskets are installed dry and there are two versions available: one for engines with machined O-ring combustion seals and one for those without O-rings. The copper head gasket offered by SCE for engines without machined O-rings includes both coolant seals and and the Integral Combustion Seal which eliminates the need to have O-ring grooves machined into the block or heads. These head gaskets allow engine builders to exploit the benefits of of copper, such as the wide range of thicknesses, superior strength, superior combustion sealing, conformability to deck surfaces and superior heat conductivity, with none of the prior disadvantages of 'old fashioned' copper head gaskets.  
  
Gasket Works makes a stainless steel o-ring that is only 0.004" thick and eliminates the need to groove the block or head. See: http://www.headgasket.com/images/olympic%20rings.jpg .
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[[File:Sce titan cu hg.jpg|thumb|300px|left|SCE ICS copper head gasket with silicone sealing beads and combustion ring]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
====Steel (shim) gaskets====
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====Steel shim head gaskets====
 
Steel shim head gaskets are exactly what the name implies, simply a thin sheet of embossed steel with no sealers applied. Steel shim gaskets rely on the combination of increased localized pressure from the embossing (stamped ridges) much like MLS head gaskets, with the addition of a user applied sealant to insure liquid tight operation.
 
Steel shim head gaskets are exactly what the name implies, simply a thin sheet of embossed steel with no sealers applied. Steel shim gaskets rely on the combination of increased localized pressure from the embossing (stamped ridges) much like MLS head gaskets, with the addition of a user applied sealant to insure liquid tight operation.
  
 
Steel shim gaskets come in a variety of thicknesses as the name implies and range from 0.010" up to 0.080". Originally, the gaskets were of flat steel sheeting and went on to have an embossed surface. The embossing was strategically placed on the gasket surface around cylinder holes, water inlets, and outer surfaces. The embossing provided extra metal to fill in voids over the sealing surface when torqued into place. Shim gaskets could raise or lower compression in an engine without machining. They were the front runners of the now used fiber and non-ferrous metal gaskets.  
 
Steel shim gaskets come in a variety of thicknesses as the name implies and range from 0.010" up to 0.080". Originally, the gaskets were of flat steel sheeting and went on to have an embossed surface. The embossing was strategically placed on the gasket surface around cylinder holes, water inlets, and outer surfaces. The embossing provided extra metal to fill in voids over the sealing surface when torqued into place. Shim gaskets could raise or lower compression in an engine without machining. They were the front runners of the now used fiber and non-ferrous metal gaskets.  
  
The term, "blowing a gasket" was common for racers because they were using a very thin 10 or 20 thousandths of an inch thickness shim gasket to raise compression. Because of its thinness, the gasket would blow between two inner cylinders. They could stay in the race only as long as the gasket didn't disintegrate and expose the coolant passages to the combustion chamber. Engine builders of the day were often seen applying a couple coats of aluminum paint to both sides of a set of head gaskets to make them stick in place and seal the mating surfaces. The aluminum particles in the paint would fill in the voids in surfaces of the sand cast heads and block.
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The term "blowing a gasket" was common for racers because they were using a very thin 0.010" or 0.020" compressed thickness steel shim head gasket to raise compression. Because of its thinness, the gasket could fail allowing leakage between adjacent cylinders, aka "blowing a head gasket". The vehicle could only remain running for as long as the coolant held out or until some other mode of failure took the engine out of contention. Engine builders of the day were often seen applying a couple coats of aluminum or copper paint to both sides of head gaskets to make them stick in place and seal the mating surfaces. The metallic particles in the paint would fill in the small voids and irregularities in the machined deck surfaces of the heads and block.
  
 
====MLS head gaskets====
 
====MLS head gaskets====
Sealant use may be required when retrofitting MLS(multi-layer steel) head gaskets to engines which were not originally produced with MLS head gaskets, or when using MLS head gaskets on engines that have not been properly prepared. For proper coolant and oil sealing, MLS head gaskets require surface finishes of 30 RA (Roughness Average) or finer, this is because the elastomeric coating on the sealing surfaces of MLS head gaskets is approximately .001" thick which is too thin to seal leak paths in the peaks and valleys of rougher (RA30+) finishes.
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Sealant use may be required when retrofitting MLS (multi-layer steel) head gaskets to engines which were not originally produced with MLS head gaskets, or when using MLS head gaskets on engines that have not been properly prepared. For proper coolant, oil, and combustion sealing, MLS head gaskets require surface finishes of 30 RA (Roughness Average) or finer, this is because the elastomeric coating on the sealing surfaces of MLS head gaskets is approximately .001" thick which is too thin to seal leak paths in the peaks and valleys of rougher (RA30+) finishes.
  
 
====Graphite head gasket====
 
====Graphite head gasket====
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It can also take out the whole bottom end of your engine: hydrolocking, broken or bent pistons and rods, cracked block, etc.
 
It can also take out the whole bottom end of your engine: hydrolocking, broken or bent pistons and rods, cracked block, etc.
  
===Removing an old head gasket===
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===Removing a head gasket===
 
Use a putty knife or gasket scraper, but be very careful that you do not gouge the material with the tool. Perhaps a better idea is to use a 3M rotary pad that is commercially available for this purpose. Use it in your electric drill to clean off the surfaces perfectly without damage. You can also use acetone thinner, or [http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_removers/auto_Permatex_Gasket_Remover.htm Permatex gasket remover].
 
Use a putty knife or gasket scraper, but be very careful that you do not gouge the material with the tool. Perhaps a better idea is to use a 3M rotary pad that is commercially available for this purpose. Use it in your electric drill to clean off the surfaces perfectly without damage. You can also use acetone thinner, or [http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_removers/auto_Permatex_Gasket_Remover.htm Permatex gasket remover].
  
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===Head gasket re-torquing===
 
===Head gasket re-torquing===
Stock replacement head gaskets do not generally need re-torquing. Steel shim head gaskets should be retorqued. Racing engine head gaskets should be re-torqued regardless of the type of gasket being used. If your engine calls for torque-to-yield head bolts (TTY) do not re-torque.  
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The purpose of re-torquing the cylinder head fasteners is to restore the proper stretch to the head bolts after the first heat cycle. Physics dictates that the engine assembly will expand as the engine temperature increases, this expansion will increase the compressive load on the head gaskets causing a seating effect (sometimes referred to as creep relaxation) in composite head gaskets.  
  
The purpose of re-torquing the cylinder heads is to restore the proper stretch to the head bolts after the first heat cycle. Physics dictates that the engine assembly will expand as the engine temperature increases, this expansion will increase the compressive load on the head gaskets causing a seating effect sometimes referred to as creep relaxation in composite head gaskets.  
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The seating of the gaskets and threads results in a commensurate relaxation of the fasteners when the engine cools. Re-torquing the fasteners restores the proper stretch to the fasteners which will insure proper cold sealing of the gaskets as well as proper combustion sealing under full load.  
  
The seating of the gaskets and threads results in a commensurate relaxation of the head bolts when the engine cools. Re-torquing the head bolts/studs restores the proper stretch to the fasteners which will insure proper cold sealing of the gaskets as well as proper combustion sealing under full load.  
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Stock replacement head gaskets do not generally need re-torquing. Steel shim head gaskets should be retorqued. Racing engine head gaskets should be re-torqued according to the manufacturer's instructions and the type of gasket being used. If your engine calls for torque-to-yield head bolts (TTY), do not re-torque.  
  
One re-torque is all that is necessary (unless the manufacturers instructions indicate otherwise), subsequent re-torquing can cause plastic deformation (stretch) of the head fasteners and damage to the head gaskets.<BR>
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One re-torque is all that is necessary (unless the manufacturers instructions indicate otherwise), subsequent re-torquing can cause plastic deformation (stretch) of the head fasteners and damage to the head gaskets.
The process for re-torquing is as follows:<BR>
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Start the engine & run with no load until operating temperature is reached.<BR>
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====The process for re-torquing is as follows:====
Shut down the engine & let cool completely (overnight).<BR>
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*Start the engine and run with no load until operating temperature is reached  
Retracing the original torque pattern, one fastener at a time, loosen slightly to overcome the friction set of the bolt or nut, then re-torque to specified torque setting.
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*Shut down the engine and let cool completely  
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*Retracing the original torque pattern one fastener at a time, slightly loosen the bolt or nut (to overcome the friction set), then re-torque to the specified torque setting
  
 
It is suggested by some to retorque cast iron heads/blocks while still warm (not hot). This should NOT be done with aluminum blocks or heads.
 
It is suggested by some to retorque cast iron heads/blocks while still warm (not hot). This should NOT be done with aluminum blocks or heads.
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===Re-using head gaskets===
 
===Re-using head gaskets===
 
Some head gaskets are re-usable several times and others should never be re-used. Steel shim head gaskets are designed for one use only. Composite or graphite head gaskets are most often not re-usable because of [[rust]] damage to the steel core, disintegration of the surface material or damage or loss of the sealant material. MLS gaskets are most often not re-usable because the elastomeric coating is scubbed off of the combustion and coolant seals by abrasion from temperature induced expansion and contraction. Traditional copper head gaskets are re-usable, Titan and ICS Titan copper head gaskets from SCE are also re-usable. Even if a head gasket is re-usable, many people prefer to use a new one. The labor involved in replacing a head gasket, and the potential for engine damage from a blown gasket are too great to risk.
 
Some head gaskets are re-usable several times and others should never be re-used. Steel shim head gaskets are designed for one use only. Composite or graphite head gaskets are most often not re-usable because of [[rust]] damage to the steel core, disintegration of the surface material or damage or loss of the sealant material. MLS gaskets are most often not re-usable because the elastomeric coating is scubbed off of the combustion and coolant seals by abrasion from temperature induced expansion and contraction. Traditional copper head gaskets are re-usable, Titan and ICS Titan copper head gaskets from SCE are also re-usable. Even if a head gasket is re-usable, many people prefer to use a new one. The labor involved in replacing a head gasket, and the potential for engine damage from a blown gasket are too great to risk.
 
==Suppliers and manufacturers of head gaskets==
 
*[http://www.bestgasket.com/ Best Gasket]
 
*[http://www.cometic.com/ Cometic Gaskets, Inc]
 
*[http://www.federal-mogul.com/en/AftermarketSolutions/NorthAmerica/SealingSolutions/Brands/Fel-Pro/ Fel-Pro gaskets]
 
*[http://flatoutgaskets.com Flatout Gaskets]
 
*[http://www.milodon.com/copper-gaskets/copper-head-gaskets.asp Milodon copper head gaskets]
 
*Mopar Performance Gaskets
 
*[http://www.mrgasket.com/ Mr. Gasket]
 
*[http://www.rolmfg.com/ ROL Gaskets]
 
*[http://www.scegaskets.com/ SCE Gaskets]
 
*[http://www.victorreinz.com/products.html Victor Reinz gaskets]
 
  
 
==How to differentiate the top and bottom of a head gasket==
 
==How to differentiate the top and bottom of a head gasket==
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==SBC head gasket applications==  
 
==SBC head gasket applications==  
 
===Other than 0.041" compressed thickness===
 
 
Many SBC head gaskets are going to have at least a 4.090" gasket bore diameter, so are usable on a 0.060" over 4" block.
 
Many SBC head gaskets are going to have at least a 4.090" gasket bore diameter, so are usable on a 0.060" over 4" block.
  
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There are a large selection of head gasket types and thicknesses for the SBC engine. Many composite head gaskets are right at 0.041" compressed thickness. Suffice to say ALL manufacturers of SBC head gaskets will have one or more that compress to 0.040"-0.041".
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===SBC head gaskets having less than 0.040" compressed thickness===
 
*FelPro's FEL 1094 is a steel shim with a 4.1" gasket bore diameter and 0.015" compressed thickness, if you've got super flat surfaces on the deck and head, this is a great gasket. It does not tolerate the engine being overheated.  
 
*FelPro's FEL 1094 is a steel shim with a 4.1" gasket bore diameter and 0.015" compressed thickness, if you've got super flat surfaces on the deck and head, this is a great gasket. It does not tolerate the engine being overheated.  
 
 
*GM 3830711 is also a steel shim with a 4.1" gasket bore diameter, and is 0.026" thick. Good flat surfaces are required, same rules apply as the Fel Pro above. This is the GM production gasket for '''non''' 400 bore SBCs. Simple and low cost.  
 
*GM 3830711 is also a steel shim with a 4.1" gasket bore diameter, and is 0.026" thick. Good flat surfaces are required, same rules apply as the Fel Pro above. This is the GM production gasket for '''non''' 400 bore SBCs. Simple and low cost.  
 
 
*GM 10105117, this head gasket is a multi-layered stainless steel gasket with a 4.1" gasket bore diameter, is 0.028" thick, works with iron or aluminum heads, good for holding back high compression, and tolerates some surface irregularities in the deck and head surfaces. This is the “revised” gasket, see [http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tech-general-engine/269378-head-gasket-thickness-gm.html post #23].  
 
*GM 10105117, this head gasket is a multi-layered stainless steel gasket with a 4.1" gasket bore diameter, is 0.028" thick, works with iron or aluminum heads, good for holding back high compression, and tolerates some surface irregularities in the deck and head surfaces. This is the “revised” gasket, see [http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tech-general-engine/269378-head-gasket-thickness-gm.html post #23].  
 
 
*GM 14096405, it has stainless faces over a graphite core, 4.1" gasket bore diameter and 0.028" compressed thickness. This thing hangs tough on uneven surfaces and puts up with high compression ratios. Good for iron or aluminum, this makes a good race engine gasket as it's very tolerant of engines running very hot. It lets the block and head move around to adjust for their temperature differences without breaking its seal.   
 
*GM 14096405, it has stainless faces over a graphite core, 4.1" gasket bore diameter and 0.028" compressed thickness. This thing hangs tough on uneven surfaces and puts up with high compression ratios. Good for iron or aluminum, this makes a good race engine gasket as it's very tolerant of engines running very hot. It lets the block and head move around to adjust for their temperature differences without breaking its seal.   
  
 
==Other possibilities (nowhere near a complete list):==
 
==Other possibilities (nowhere near a complete list):==
 
 
===Composite type===
 
===Composite type===
 
Victor Reinz Nitroseal p/n 5746, has a compressed thickness is 0.025", 4.1” gasket bore diameter. NAPA carries Victor.
 
Victor Reinz Nitroseal p/n 5746, has a compressed thickness is 0.025", 4.1” gasket bore diameter. NAPA carries Victor.
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===Shim type===
 
===Shim type===
 
*Jegs p/n 210044- Embossed Shim w/ Rubber Coating. Bore 4.150", compressed thickness is 0.024".
 
*Jegs p/n 210044- Embossed Shim w/ Rubber Coating. Bore 4.150", compressed thickness is 0.024".
 
 
*Mr. Gasket p/n 1130 0.018”- 0.020” compressed thickness, steel embossed w/coating.  
 
*Mr. Gasket p/n 1130 0.018”- 0.020” compressed thickness, steel embossed w/coating.  
  
 
There are several thinner coated shim type gaskets like:
 
There are several thinner coated shim type gaskets like:
 
*Fel-Pro Q1094- SBC 307 327 350 283 #1094. Used in some sportsman drag race and flat top oval track categories. Rubber coated steel shim, 4.100 in. gasket bore diameter, 0.015" compressed thickness.
 
*Fel-Pro Q1094- SBC 307 327 350 283 #1094. Used in some sportsman drag race and flat top oval track categories. Rubber coated steel shim, 4.100 in. gasket bore diameter, 0.015" compressed thickness.
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==Suppliers and manufacturers of head gaskets==
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*[http://www.bestgasket.com/ Best Gasket]
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*[http://www.cometic.com/ Cometic Gaskets, Inc]
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*[http://www.federal-mogul.com/en/AftermarketSolutions/NorthAmerica/SealingSolutions/Brands/Fel-Pro/ Fel-Pro gaskets]
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*[http://flatoutgaskets.com Flatout Gaskets]
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*[http://www.milodon.com/copper-gaskets/copper-head-gaskets.asp Milodon copper head gaskets]
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*Mopar Performance Gaskets
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*[http://www.mrgasket.com/ Mr. Gasket]
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*[http://www.rolmfg.com/ ROL Gaskets]
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*[http://www.scegaskets.com/ SCE Gaskets]
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*[http://www.victorreinz.com/products.html Victor Reinz gaskets]
  
 
==Further reading==
 
==Further reading==

Revision as of 01:04, 4 May 2012

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