Removing stuck fasteners

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===Heat the nut method===
 
===Heat the nut method===
 
 
Heat the '''nut''' with a torch until red hot, cool the bolt with a good shot of spray-on rust remover then remove the nut while still hot.  Heating the nut thermally expands it, while the rust remover (which is a refrigerant) thermally contracts the bolt.  Be careful and use gloves as the nut and your wrench will be hot.
 
Heat the '''nut''' with a torch until red hot, cool the bolt with a good shot of spray-on rust remover then remove the nut while still hot.  Heating the nut thermally expands it, while the rust remover (which is a refrigerant) thermally contracts the bolt.  Be careful and use gloves as the nut and your wrench will be hot.
  
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==Penetrating and lubricating oils==
 
==Penetrating and lubricating oils==
 
 
Penetrating oil is an extremely low-viscosity oil that can penetrate into the area between threads on fasteners. A stuck fastener is sometimes repeatedly heated, sprayed with penetrating oil, and then tapped with a hammer.  
 
Penetrating oil is an extremely low-viscosity oil that can penetrate into the area between threads on fasteners. A stuck fastener is sometimes repeatedly heated, sprayed with penetrating oil, and then tapped with a hammer.  
  
 
If heating or hammering is not possible the penetration can be improved by first spraying brake cleaner on the stuck fastener and following with the penetrating spray before the brake cleaner has evaporated. The solvent penetrates better than oil and will pull some oil with it.
 
If heating or hammering is not possible the penetration can be improved by first spraying brake cleaner on the stuck fastener and following with the penetrating spray before the brake cleaner has evaporated. The solvent penetrates better than oil and will pull some oil with it.
  
If I could have only one chemical tool, it would be "Liquid Wrench". Note that when trying to loosen rusty parts, it's important to first remove as much of the rust as possible with a wire brush. Once it's as clean as a wire brush will get it, apply Liquid Wrench, then give the piece repeated light taps with a hammer for ten or fifteen seconds; this helps work the Liquid Wrench into the crevices. Wait two minutes, then repeat the Liquid Wrench/tapping procedure. After repeating the procedure 3 or 4 times, THEN try to loosen it with one swift blow. Sometimes it won't work, but the majority of the time, your patience will allow you to not only remove the rusted nuts and bolts, but to possibly even reuse them.
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A decent penetrant is "Liquid Wrench". Another that is always at the top of the list is PB Blaster"- it has surprised many users with how well it works. Note that when trying to loosen rusty parts, it's important to first remove as much of the rust as possible with a wire brush. Once it's as clean as a wire brush will get it, apply Liquid Wrench, then give the piece repeated light taps with a hammer for ten or fifteen seconds; this helps work the penetrant into the crevices. Wait two minutes, then repeat the Liquid Wrench/tapping procedure. After repeating the procedure 3 or 4 times, THEN try to loosen it with one swift blow. Sometimes it won't work, but the majority of the time, your patience will allow you to not only remove the rusted nuts and bolts, but to possibly even reuse them.
  
Many people recommend "PB Blaster", which led to me trying it - it did an excellent job for me. An overnight soak-in is an important step.
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A longer soak time is better than a shorter soak time, with repeated reapplications if possible.
  
 
===Some recommended penetrating oils===
 
===Some recommended penetrating oils===
 
 
*Acetone mixed with Automatic Transmission Fluid
 
*Acetone mixed with Automatic Transmission Fluid
 
*Acetone mixed with Power Steering Fluid
 
*Acetone mixed with Power Steering Fluid

Revision as of 20:57, 19 May 2012

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