Hot rodding the HEI distributor

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However, the scope of this article at this juncture doesn't include a full run-down of modified computer-controlled or aftermarket HEI distributors, but is instead primarily aimed at reworking a stock-type HEI for performance duty.  
 
However, the scope of this article at this juncture doesn't include a full run-down of modified computer-controlled or aftermarket HEI distributors, but is instead primarily aimed at reworking a stock-type HEI for performance duty.  
  
==Before changing the ignition curve==
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==Finding/verifying TDC==
 
*You will want to begin by knowing the timing tab and line on the damper are accurately indicating [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Determining_top_dead_center TDC].
 
*You will want to begin by knowing the timing tab and line on the damper are accurately indicating [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Determining_top_dead_center TDC].
 
*On the SBC there were three different combinations of damper lines and timing tabs that go together. [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Timing_tabs_and_damper_TDC_lines_SBC This page] describes them.
 
*On the SBC there were three different combinations of damper lines and timing tabs that go together. [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Timing_tabs_and_damper_TDC_lines_SBC This page] describes them.
  
 
==Plug gap==
 
==Plug gap==
Don't be tempted to excessively widen the gap. The correct gap is 0.035" for the majority of cases and no more than 0.040" under any circumstances when using a basically stock HEI ignition. Wider plug gaps (or faulty ignition wires) cause voltage spikes in order for a spark to occur. This in turn causes the cap to fill with ionized air, and this can cause erosion/degradation to the components along with spark scatter and/or voltage bypassing to the distributor advance mechanism, shaft, etc. It is hard on the secondary ignition components in general and just isn't needed in the vast majority of cases.
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Don't be tempted to excessively widen the gap. The correct gap is 0.035"- 0.040" for the majority of cases. Using plug gaps wider than that is unnecessary when using a basically stock HEI ignition. Wider plug gaps (or faulty ignition wires) cause voltage spikes in order for a spark to occur. This in turn causes the cap to fill with ionized air, and this can cause erosion/degradation to the components along with spark scatter and/or voltage bypassing to the distributor advance mechanism, shaft, etc. It is hard on the secondary ignition components in general and just isn't needed in the vast majority of cases.
  
 
The large diameter of the cap helps to prevent this and it works well enough in a passenger car, even with the wider gaps that were used for some applications. But once the RPM goes up and the cylinder pressure increases, the chance of a misfire increases dramatically with a wider plug gap.
 
The large diameter of the cap helps to prevent this and it works well enough in a passenger car, even with the wider gaps that were used for some applications. But once the RPM goes up and the cylinder pressure increases, the chance of a misfire increases dramatically with a wider plug gap.
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A gasket can be used under the shims. But do not use paper distributor gaskets stacked together as shims. They will soak with oil and compress more than when dry.  
 
A gasket can be used under the shims. But do not use paper distributor gaskets stacked together as shims. They will soak with oil and compress more than when dry.  
 
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==Rotor phasing==
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*[http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedFiles/MSDIgnitioncom/Support/frm28392_tech_bulletin_rotor_phasing.pdf Checking and correcting rotor phasing] from MSD
  
 
=Ignition advance=
 
=Ignition advance=

Revision as of 23:08, 30 May 2012

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