Removing stuck fasteners
(Add a product by the makers of WD40 that is specifically formulated as a penetrant) |
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===Some recommended penetrating fluids=== | ===Some recommended penetrating fluids=== | ||
| − | *Acetone mixed with Automatic Transmission Fluid | + | *Acetone mixed with Automatic Transmission Fluid '''<font size="5"><nowiki>*</nowiki>'''</font> |
*Acetone mixed with Power Steering Fluid | *Acetone mixed with Power Steering Fluid | ||
*Air tool oil | *Air tool oil | ||
*BG In Force | *BG In Force | ||
*[http://www.break-free.com/products/products_breakfreeclp.asp?catalog=civil Break-Free CLP] | *[http://www.break-free.com/products/products_breakfreeclp.asp?catalog=civil Break-Free CLP] | ||
| − | * | + | *[http://www.blueworksbrand.com/products/penetrant/ Blue Works Industrial Grade Penentrant] by WD40 |
| − | *CRC Industries: [http://www.crcind.com.au/catalogue.nsf/web_brands/CRC+5-56?openDocument 5-56] | + | *CRC Industries: |
| + | **[http://www.crcind.com.au/catalogue.nsf/web_brands/CRC+5-56?openDocument 5-56] | ||
| + | **[http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=05002&S=Y Freeze-Off] | ||
| + | **[http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=401712&S=Y Knock'er Loose] | ||
| + | **[http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=05330&S=Y Ultra Screwloose] | ||
*Diesel fuel | *Diesel fuel | ||
*[http://www.lubecorp.com/products/excel_440_super_lubricant.html Excel 440 Super Lubricant] | *[http://www.lubecorp.com/products/excel_440_super_lubricant.html Excel 440 Super Lubricant] | ||
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*[http://kanolabs.com Kroil/Aerokroil] | *[http://kanolabs.com Kroil/Aerokroil] | ||
*[http://www.gunk.com/lubricants.asp Liquid Wrench] | *[http://www.gunk.com/lubricants.asp Liquid Wrench] | ||
| − | *LPS: [http://www.lpslabs.com/product_pg/lubricants_pg/LST.html LST] | + | *LPS: |
| + | **[http://www.lpslabs.com/product_pg/lubricants_pg/LST.html LST] | ||
| + | **[http://www.lpslabs.com/product_pg/lubricants_pg/KB88.html KB 88] | ||
*[http://mousemilk.com/ Mouse Milk] | *[http://mousemilk.com/ Mouse Milk] | ||
*[http://www.orbindustries.com/penetrants-lubricants.php Nuts Off] | *[http://www.orbindustries.com/penetrants-lubricants.php Nuts Off] | ||
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*Zep 45 | *Zep 45 | ||
| − | === | + | ==='''<font size="5"><nowiki>*</nowiki>'''</font> Commercial penetrating fluids compared to ATF/acetone mix=== |
Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. | Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. | ||
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*A rechargeable impact drill/driver can be used to loosen frozen fasteners if they are within the capacity of the tool. | *A rechargeable impact drill/driver can be used to loosen frozen fasteners if they are within the capacity of the tool. | ||
*Hand-held impact drivers typically have slotted and Phillips headed bits, as well as a socket fitting. The bit or socket is placed on the stuck fastener, and the other end of the impact driver is struck with a hammer. The impact of the hammer strike loosens the fastener, the downward force keeps the bit in its place, and the impact driver turns the force of the hammer strike into a sudden torque on the stuck fastener. | *Hand-held impact drivers typically have slotted and Phillips headed bits, as well as a socket fitting. The bit or socket is placed on the stuck fastener, and the other end of the impact driver is struck with a hammer. The impact of the hammer strike loosens the fastener, the downward force keeps the bit in its place, and the impact driver turns the force of the hammer strike into a sudden torque on the stuck fastener. | ||
| − | *[http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&pid=00952166000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Bolt-Out%2C+Taps+%26+Dies&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes Craftsman 10 pc. Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set, Low Profile Bolt-Out | + | *[http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&pid=00952166000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Bolt-Out%2C+Taps+%26+Dies&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes Craftsman 10 pc. Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set, Low Profile Bolt-Out]. These can be useful for when the bolt head is rounded off, or there is no room to beat a socket or wrench on to it, or when a torch is not available. |
| − | *Another good brand of bolt extractor is named '''Extractor''', it has a little bit more "bite" than the Craftsman and Irwin extractor tools. | + | *Another good brand of bolt extractor is named '''Extractor''', it supposedly has a little bit more "bite" than the Craftsman and Irwin extractor tools. |
*Hotrodders forum thread on the [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/does-work-grabit-seen-tv-155731.html "GrabIt"] extractor tool, as seen on a late-night infomercial. | *Hotrodders forum thread on the [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/does-work-grabit-seen-tv-155731.html "GrabIt"] extractor tool, as seen on a late-night infomercial. | ||
[[File:Sockets 003.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Damaged or frozen fastener removal sockets]]<br style="clear:both"/> | [[File:Sockets 003.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Damaged or frozen fastener removal sockets]]<br style="clear:both"/> | ||
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===Instructions for making an impact-type screw removal tool=== | ===Instructions for making an impact-type screw removal tool=== | ||
This is designed to remove a fastener that has a stripped head. | This is designed to remove a fastener that has a stripped head. | ||
| − | *Get an aircraft rivet gun (note: not a tubing cutter, they're too fast) that has less than 2000 | + | *Get an aircraft rivet gun (note: not a tubing cutter, they're too fast) that has less than 2000 bpm (blows per minute). |
*Get one of the rivet gun sets, and weld a piece of 3/4" hex stock to the working end of the set then weld an apex tip holder to the hex stock (of course you need an air compressor, 100 psi is just fine). | *Get one of the rivet gun sets, and weld a piece of 3/4" hex stock to the working end of the set then weld an apex tip holder to the hex stock (of course you need an air compressor, 100 psi is just fine). | ||
*Put a Phillips tip in the apex holder (prior to that grind a little off the tip as they usually are slightly too long; this will allow the tip to drop farther into the screw head so it will pick up what is left of the flutes in the head). | *Put a Phillips tip in the apex holder (prior to that grind a little off the tip as they usually are slightly too long; this will allow the tip to drop farther into the screw head so it will pick up what is left of the flutes in the head). | ||
| + | *Optional: Use some valve grinding compound on the tip of the Phillips head bit. The valve grinding compound will help the bit grip the fastener. | ||
*Put the whole thing together and insert the tip into the screw head. Slowly pull the trigger on the rivet gun, while at the same time putting pressure on the box end wrench you have installed on the hex part of your tool, making sure to keep pressure on the gun handle so it won't jump out of the work. | *Put the whole thing together and insert the tip into the screw head. Slowly pull the trigger on the rivet gun, while at the same time putting pressure on the box end wrench you have installed on the hex part of your tool, making sure to keep pressure on the gun handle so it won't jump out of the work. | ||
| − | *One word of caution | + | *One word of caution: even though this works almost 100% of the time, it is possible (if the screw is into a plate nut) to twist the plate nut off its mount. |
| − | ==Tips for broken | + | ==Tips for broken off bolt heads== |
*If enough of the bolt remains, try to grab it with locking pliers or a pipe wrench. | *If enough of the bolt remains, try to grab it with locking pliers or a pipe wrench. | ||
*Try to saw a groove in it, so that a flat-head screwdriver can be used to turn it. Use an impact screwdriver if you have one, it will work a lot easier. | *Try to saw a groove in it, so that a flat-head screwdriver can be used to turn it. Use an impact screwdriver if you have one, it will work a lot easier. | ||
*Take a 12-point socket that is just larger than the shaft of the bolt, and beat it down onto the bolt with a hammer. Turn it out with a ratchet. When finished, put the socket in a vice, and tap out the broken bolt. | *Take a 12-point socket that is just larger than the shaft of the bolt, and beat it down onto the bolt with a hammer. Turn it out with a ratchet. When finished, put the socket in a vice, and tap out the broken bolt. | ||
| − | *If a bolt is broken off below the surface, build it up with a welder until there is enough to which to weld a nut. If this breaks off try it again | + | *If a bolt is broken off below the surface, build it up with a welder until there is enough to which to weld a nut. If this breaks off try it again; the heat and cool cycle of the TIG weld will loosen the fastener in the stuck piece. |
*Center punch the broken bolt and drill the bolt head using a left hand drill bit about half the diameter of the bolt. As the bolt head is drilled, most of the time the bit will bite into the bolt head and spin the broken bolt out. | *Center punch the broken bolt and drill the bolt head using a left hand drill bit about half the diameter of the bolt. As the bolt head is drilled, most of the time the bit will bite into the bolt head and spin the broken bolt out. | ||
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*A pipe wrench will grip rounded off fasteners. | *A pipe wrench will grip rounded off fasteners. | ||
*Weld a piece of metal to the top of the bolt, to use as leverage when loosening. | *Weld a piece of metal to the top of the bolt, to use as leverage when loosening. | ||
| − | *If the slot of a round-headed screw is stripped, file two flat edges in it. Then, it can be turned with an adjustable wrench. Or, use a hacksaw to file a new slot at a right angle to the existing one. Depending on the size of the fastener, using a Dremel tool or a die-grinder with a fiber wheel, carefully grind a large, deep slot in the head of the fastener, and before it cools, use a large screwdriver to remove it. The fastener is obviously not reusable at this point, but it can possibly save the difficulty of having to drill and tap a new hole through a hardened, broken-off | + | *If the slot of a round-headed screw is stripped, file two flat edges in it. Then, it can be turned with an adjustable wrench or Vice Grips. Or, use a hacksaw to file a new slot at a right angle to the existing one. Depending on the size of the fastener, using a Dremel tool or a die-grinder with a fiber wheel, carefully grind a large, deep slot in the head of the fastener, and before it cools, use a large screwdriver or impact driver to remove it. The fastener is obviously not reusable at this point, but it can possibly save the difficulty of having to drill and tap a new hole through a hardened, broken-off easy-out. |
*Six-point sockets will grip better on hex nuts and bolts than 12-point sockets. | *Six-point sockets will grip better on hex nuts and bolts than 12-point sockets. | ||
*Drill and tap the bolt to run another, smaller bolt down the center. A bit about half the diameter of the headless, stuck bolt is usually sufficient. Use a jam nut on the small bolt and lots of penetrating oil. | *Drill and tap the bolt to run another, smaller bolt down the center. A bit about half the diameter of the headless, stuck bolt is usually sufficient. Use a jam nut on the small bolt and lots of penetrating oil. | ||
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*If the bolt or stud breaks off below the surface, try this method. Using a high grade bolt of same size, grind off the threaded end until the bolt will fit into the hole and touch the broken bolt. Using an electric welder, clamp the "electrode" bolt in the stinger. This works best if someone is there to help you by turning the welder on and off. With the stinger bolt inserted into the broken bolt hole and firmly against the broken bolt, have the power turned on just long enough to fuse the stinger bolt to the broken one. You might want to practice this technique on the bench to get the power and timing right. Once they have cooled for a few minutes, but are still hot enough to burn skin, place a wrench on the slave bolt and turn them out. | *If the bolt or stud breaks off below the surface, try this method. Using a high grade bolt of same size, grind off the threaded end until the bolt will fit into the hole and touch the broken bolt. Using an electric welder, clamp the "electrode" bolt in the stinger. This works best if someone is there to help you by turning the welder on and off. With the stinger bolt inserted into the broken bolt hole and firmly against the broken bolt, have the power turned on just long enough to fuse the stinger bolt to the broken one. You might want to practice this technique on the bench to get the power and timing right. Once they have cooled for a few minutes, but are still hot enough to burn skin, place a wrench on the slave bolt and turn them out. | ||
*For removing stubborn Phillips-head screws, wet the tip of the screwdriver or screwdriver bit, a little bit of spit will do, and dip the bit into some valve grinding compound or abrasive cleanser like Comet or Ajax. Use enough to cover the tip of the screwdriver. The abrasive gives the tip of the screwdriver a little added "bite" and it's less likely to slip out of the screw. | *For removing stubborn Phillips-head screws, wet the tip of the screwdriver or screwdriver bit, a little bit of spit will do, and dip the bit into some valve grinding compound or abrasive cleanser like Comet or Ajax. Use enough to cover the tip of the screwdriver. The abrasive gives the tip of the screwdriver a little added "bite" and it's less likely to slip out of the screw. | ||
| − | *If you break off the head of the bolt, grind the remainder out with care using a TrueBite carbide bit and a high-speed rotary tool (Dremel MotoTool or | + | *If you break off the head of the bolt, grind the remainder out with care using a TrueBite carbide bit and a high-speed rotary tool (Dremel MotoTool or similar). See [http://www.truebite.com/remove/ Removing Broken Bolts And Studs] for details and instructions. |
*With heating, bear in mind axles and other important structures may lose their strength if they are heated much above 300 degrees. If you have the oil and grease starting to smoke, then you are in the 300-plus degree range. | *With heating, bear in mind axles and other important structures may lose their strength if they are heated much above 300 degrees. If you have the oil and grease starting to smoke, then you are in the 300-plus degree range. | ||
| − | *When taking off cylinder head studs, look | + | *When taking off cylinder head studs or bolts, look where it passes into the head. If you see erosion into the fastener at the block surface, odds increase that the stud or bolt will break on removal. |
| − | *Whatever system you use, once you have a hold of the bolt, stud, or whatever, try rocking it forward and reverse a little at a time. If you can get it to move, it is more likely to come out. An older mechanic said always try to tighten a little before you loosen. Remember, if it moves, you are half way home | + | *Whatever system you use, once you have a hold of the bolt, stud, or whatever, try rocking it forward and reverse a little at a time. If you can get it to move, it is more likely to come out. An older mechanic said always try to tighten a little before you loosen. Remember, if it moves, you are half way home. |
| − | *Use the largest cobalt drill bit (that | + | *Use the largest cobalt drill bit (that just covers the ID of the nut) to drill through the nut- parallel to the bolt- then used a chisel to turn/peel the nut off of the bolt. |
| − | == | + | ==Safety== |
| + | {{Warning}}Always wear proper eye, face, body and hand protection when dealing with sharp tools, hammers and chisels, flames or chemicals. | ||
*[http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Health_and_safety_in_the_shop_or_garage Health and safety in the shop or garage] | *[http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Health_and_safety_in_the_shop_or_garage Health and safety in the shop or garage] | ||
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