First paint job
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==General tips, tricks, and techniques== | ==General tips, tricks, and techniques== | ||
See [[Body and exterior tips]]. | See [[Body and exterior tips]]. | ||
| + | See: [[Health and safety in the shop or garage]] | ||
| − | *A 12" aluminum ruler works great for ratios example: 4:1:1 = 4" :1" :1". Stir your paint with it and wipe it off so you can reuse it later, you can find them everywhere for $1 | + | *A 12" aluminum ruler works great for ratios example: 4:1:1 = 4" :1" :1". Stir your paint with it and wipe it off so you can reuse it later, you can find them everywhere for $1. |
*Save your old reducer gallon cans and quart size hardener cans. With a pair of tin snips, cut the tops off (at the bead), and use them for mixing paint with a ruler -- but run some tape around the edge so you don't cut yourself. | *Save your old reducer gallon cans and quart size hardener cans. With a pair of tin snips, cut the tops off (at the bead), and use them for mixing paint with a ruler -- but run some tape around the edge so you don't cut yourself. | ||
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*Buy a set of inexpensive spatulas to use as scrapers for paint cans. | *Buy a set of inexpensive spatulas to use as scrapers for paint cans. | ||
| − | *To preserve hardener, displace the air in the can with inert gas, such as the shield gas (CO2/argon, etc.) from a MIG welder | + | *To preserve hardener, displace the air in the can with inert gas, such as the shield gas (CO2/argon, etc.) from a MIG welder. Or, use a commercial inert gas finish preservative such as [http://www.bloxygen.com/ Bloxygen]. |
| − | + | {{Warning}}DO NOT use oxygen or acetylene from a torch! | |
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*For easier pouring, affix a 2-inch piece of masking tape to the edge of a large gallon of paint. Pour the paint over the piece of tape. | *For easier pouring, affix a 2-inch piece of masking tape to the edge of a large gallon of paint. Pour the paint over the piece of tape. | ||
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*Leftover paint with hardener can be placed in the refrigerator. The cold temperature will slow down the hardener. You can even throw you spray gun in there if you find you need some supplies, and you are in the middle of painting. | *Leftover paint with hardener can be placed in the refrigerator. The cold temperature will slow down the hardener. You can even throw you spray gun in there if you find you need some supplies, and you are in the middle of painting. | ||
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| + | *It pays to completely blow off the whole car inside and out with compressed air before you begin painting. Wear eye protection and a respirator. | ||
==Temperature== | ==Temperature== | ||
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==Building a temporary paint booth== | ==Building a temporary paint booth== | ||
See: [[Building a paint booth]]. | See: [[Building a paint booth]]. | ||
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| − | Something that will help keep dust and bugs from coming into your garage is to buy a furnace filter the same size as the window (or build a frame for the filters to go over your door) that you have open. This will collect the dirt and bugs before they become part of your paint job. | + | {{Warning}}Before painting, remove all sources of ignition, including turning off gas water heaters and any pilot lights. |
| − | If there are strict rules in your area, something that will help is to place a filter before your fan so that it filters the air as it is leaving your shop. | + | |
| + | Painting in a garage lessens the chance of bugs or dust ending up lodged in your paint while it is still in its curing stage. One way to turn your garage into a temporary paint booth is to buy large plastic drop cloths from you local hardware or home improvement store. They are a cheap and effective way to protect your tool boxes and "toys" from overspray. | ||
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| + | A good rule of thumb for blower sizing is to try to change the air TWICE every minute. Hence, if you have a 10'x10'x10' paint booth (1000 cubic feet) you want a 2000 cfm blower (2000 cubic feet per minute). Open up your garage door about 1/8 to 1/4 up. This will help with ventilation, since solvents sink to the floor. Place a fan near the opening, facing outside, to help even more with airflow. Opening any side doors and roof vents and placing additional fans will help ventilation. Box fans may work, but at a minimum you should ensure that these fans are the brushless type to reduce the amount of sparking the exhaust stream will be exposed to to lessen the chance of an ignition. Remember, the fewer sparks the paint vapor "sees" the less likely you are to cause an explosion. | ||
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| + | An even better solution to box fans would be to use squirrel cage blowers, commonly found in HVAC and exhaust vent systems. Try to get the type where the motor is outside of the squirrel cage to reduce heating the exhaust stream. Place the squirrel cage blower motor outside of your "paint booth" and run ducting into (or out of) your paint booth. | ||
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| + | Something that will help keep dust and bugs from coming into your garage is to buy a furnace filter the same size as the window (or build a frame for the filters to go over your door) that you have open. This will collect the dirt and bugs before they become part of your paint job. If there are strict rules in your area, something that will help is to place a filter before your fan so that it filters the air as it is leaving your shop. | ||
==Basic mixing techniques== | ==Basic mixing techniques== | ||
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A respirator or fresh air system should be worn at all times when you are working with paints. Even when mixing your paint and getting ready. | A respirator or fresh air system should be worn at all times when you are working with paints. Even when mixing your paint and getting ready. | ||
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| + | More at [[Health and safety in the shop or garage]]. | ||
==Spray gun tech== | ==Spray gun tech== | ||
| − | With | + | With a spray gun, you get what you pay for! |
HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) is the way to go when buying a spray gun although LVLP (Low Volume, Low Pressure) can work acceptably with the right paint. The prices have come down to reasonable levels, and the wasted paint by overspray (not to mention the mess) makes a siphon-feed unit a poor choice for the home hobby sprayer. | HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) is the way to go when buying a spray gun although LVLP (Low Volume, Low Pressure) can work acceptably with the right paint. The prices have come down to reasonable levels, and the wasted paint by overspray (not to mention the mess) makes a siphon-feed unit a poor choice for the home hobby sprayer. | ||
| − | Remember that high-solid primers like high-build type | + | Remember that high-solid primers like high-build type 2K urethanes require a larger (1.7mm) tip and setup internally than a regular paint gun. Three gun sets are available for as little as $100 that include a primer gun with the larger tip, a paint/clear gun, and a 1.0mm tipped touch-up gun. Cutting (wet sanding) and buffing make up for a lot of shortcomings in inexpensive HVLP guns. So determining which is more valuable, your money or your time, is a determining factor in choosing a paint gun. A cheaper gun will require more time spent cutting and buffing than a top-of-the-line gun that lays paint out more evenly, but at an added price of several hundred dollars. A budget gun can be had for under $30, whereas a SATA 3000 digital runs around $650. You decide which is more important. |
==Choosing the right type of paint== | ==Choosing the right type of paint== | ||
| − | + | If unsure, you can ask other car builders that have done their own paint work, or if you know a painter, ask them. Best of all is to consult with the paint salesperson when you go to buy paint. They are a wealth of information. Utilize them. That's what they are there for. | |
| − | + | ===Single stage:=== | |
| + | One stage, no clear coat. For people looking for a budget paint job. Not as glossy or durable as a 2 stage, although it easily oxidize or fade, it can easily be buffed out. | ||
| − | + | *Synthetic enamel: dries naturally and leaves a glossy finish. Two parts- paint and reducer. | |
| − | + | *Acrylic enamel: just like synthetic, but with a hardener or catalyst. Cures within hours and a little more durable than synthetic enamel. | |
| − | + | *Acrylic urethane: the most durable single stage paint. It has more UV and chip resistant over the enamel paint. | |
| − | + | ===Two stage:=== | |
| + | *Base coat/clear coat :modern paint,the most durable of all. Gives the best gloss and longevity. But once the clear coat is gone you will need new paint job. | ||
| − | + | ===Three stage:=== | |
| − | + | Base coat, then pearl or metallic, then a clear coat. | |
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==Two main types of all automotive paint colors== | ==Two main types of all automotive paint colors== | ||
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===Metallic paint=== | ===Metallic paint=== | ||
| − | Spraying metallic is a little different then spraying a solid color; they | + | Spraying metallic is a little different then spraying a solid color; they can easily mottle (have blotches of dark and light areas) and/or "tiger stripe" if sprayed incorrectly. The key to spraying metallic paint is to [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-30-a-74674.html move the "dry spot" around]. For example, spray one coat one direction, then the next coat in the direction 90 degrees to the first coat. Overlapping the coats up to 75% is another key to good metallic finishes. |
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| + | Remember, anytime that the paint moves the metallic does as well, so if they run you will get the metallic all in one spot. With metallic, always use the suggested reducers and mix the entire batch to be sprayed at the same time. DO NOT play mad scientist/chemist. ''Follow the instructions to the letter''. The engineers at the paint companies spend millions on R&D, so they are already sure of the results you will get by mixing the product any given way. Do not re-invent the wheel. | ||
[[Category:Body and exterior]] | [[Category:Body and exterior]] | ||
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