383/388 Chevy stroker
(→Crankshaft and rod to block) |
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Same thing here as was said above, regarding stroker rods. They will have a much better chance of having enough clearance without any modifications to them '''or''' the block. The place where the rod hits is the nut (if a nut and bolt rod big end) or the capscrew. Grinding on either can be an iffy proposition, so only remove what's absolutely necessary and not a bit more. If using the stock SBC 400 rod (5.565"), it will not need any clearancing. But 383 stroker cranks that use the 400 rod are not that readily available and the rod length-to-stroke ratio is not favorable. | Same thing here as was said above, regarding stroker rods. They will have a much better chance of having enough clearance without any modifications to them '''or''' the block. The place where the rod hits is the nut (if a nut and bolt rod big end) or the capscrew. Grinding on either can be an iffy proposition, so only remove what's absolutely necessary and not a bit more. If using the stock SBC 400 rod (5.565"), it will not need any clearancing. But 383 stroker cranks that use the 400 rod are not that readily available and the rod length-to-stroke ratio is not favorable. | ||
<br style="clear:both"/> | <br style="clear:both"/> | ||
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| + | We have found the thickness of the wire of a paper clip for clearances of the rods on the pan rail is just about right. | ||
==A word on rod/stroke ratios== | ==A word on rod/stroke ratios== | ||
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