Lifters
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===Roller lifter=== | ===Roller lifter=== | ||
| − | Shown below is a GM hydraulic roller lifter. The arrow shows the location of the cup, spring and check ball assembly mentioned [[Lifters# | + | Shown below is a GM hydraulic roller lifter. The arrow shows the location of the cup, spring and check ball assembly mentioned [[Lifters#Disassembling a hydraulic lifter|'''below''']]. |
[[File:Oem hyd roller lifter expolded view.jpg|left|frame|OEM GM hydraulic roller lifter]] | [[File:Oem hyd roller lifter expolded view.jpg|left|frame|OEM GM hydraulic roller lifter]] | ||
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;See [[Adjusting solid lifters]]. | ;See [[Adjusting solid lifters]]. | ||
| − | == | + | ==Flat tappet cam and lifter break in== |
The motor oil formulation has been changed due to concerns for the environment. These changes involve a reduction of the wear additive essential for a flat tappet cam to survive the harsh conditions they operate under. Because of this, special steps must be taken at break in and at oil changes to prevent premature wear or failure of the flat tappet cam and lifters. | The motor oil formulation has been changed due to concerns for the environment. These changes involve a reduction of the wear additive essential for a flat tappet cam to survive the harsh conditions they operate under. Because of this, special steps must be taken at break in and at oil changes to prevent premature wear or failure of the flat tappet cam and lifters. | ||
For more on the steps that need to be taken to avoid a cam and lifter failure, see [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Camshaft_install_tips_and_tricks '''Camshaft install tips and tricks''']. | For more on the steps that need to be taken to avoid a cam and lifter failure, see [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Camshaft_install_tips_and_tricks '''Camshaft install tips and tricks''']. | ||
| − | == | + | ==Repairing or replacing lifters== |
[[File:Lifter clips 002.jpg|thumb|350px|Three styles of lifter retainers. The [http://www.truarc.com/pdfs/Truarc%20Catalog.pdf internal C-clip type] is stronger and should be used especially with solid lifters or when "zero lashing" lifters.]] | [[File:Lifter clips 002.jpg|thumb|350px|Three styles of lifter retainers. The [http://www.truarc.com/pdfs/Truarc%20Catalog.pdf internal C-clip type] is stronger and should be used especially with solid lifters or when "zero lashing" lifters.]] | ||
| − | + | {{Caution}}Lifters and cam lobes become wedded as soon as the engine fires up and the cam is broken in. From that point forward, the same lifter '''has''' to be kept on the same lobe, preferably in the same engine. To replace a faulty lifter with a new lifter (or to replace a used cam with a new cam, reusing the same lifters) is to risk cam and lifter failure requiring the engine to be torn down to remove the shrapnel left from the destruction of the cam lobe(s) and lifter(s). This will certainly cost more than what a new set of lifters and a cam would have cost from the beginning, considering that a new cam and lifters will be needed, along with gaskets, fluids and filters, down time, aggravation, etc. | |
| − | {{Caution}}Lifters and cam lobes become wedded as soon as the engine fires up and the cam is broken in. From that point forward, the same lifter '''has''' to be kept on the same lobe, preferably in the same engine. To replace a faulty lifter with a new lifter (or to replace a used cam with a new cam, reusing the same lifters) is to | + | |
| − | + | If the cam lobes and lifter bottoms are not excessively worn, before replacing a stuck or noisy lifter with a new lifter (which should be considered only in an emergency situation), or replacing the cam and lifters with new parts, disassemble, clean and inspect the lifter that is in question- there might be hope for it after all. | |
===Disassembling a hydraulic lifter=== | ===Disassembling a hydraulic lifter=== | ||
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To disassemble a lifter, depress the lifter cup using a wooden dowel or a pushrod. This allows the retainer clip to be easily removed from the groove in the lifter body. Use a pick and lift one side out of the groove and the clip will come out.<br> | To disassemble a lifter, depress the lifter cup using a wooden dowel or a pushrod. This allows the retainer clip to be easily removed from the groove in the lifter body. Use a pick and lift one side out of the groove and the clip will come out.<br> | ||
| − | {{ | + | {{!}}Be careful to not accidentally shoot the clip across the shop. |
Once the clip is out, the pushrod cup and metering disc can be removed, followed by the inner plunger assembly. The plunger can be stubborn, tapping the open end against a cloth-covered wood block will usually bring the plunger to the top of the body allowing it to be coaxed out the rest of the way. | Once the clip is out, the pushrod cup and metering disc can be removed, followed by the inner plunger assembly. The plunger can be stubborn, tapping the open end against a cloth-covered wood block will usually bring the plunger to the top of the body allowing it to be coaxed out the rest of the way. | ||
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Remove the cup using a pick and see that the tiny spring isn't bent, kinked or missing, and that the check ball is there and is smooth and shiny, and that the seat on the plunger that the ball seals doesn't have any ridges, burrs, or imperfections that would prevent the ball from seating properly. <br style="clear:both"/> | Remove the cup using a pick and see that the tiny spring isn't bent, kinked or missing, and that the check ball is there and is smooth and shiny, and that the seat on the plunger that the ball seals doesn't have any ridges, burrs, or imperfections that would prevent the ball from seating properly. <br style="clear:both"/> | ||
| + | ;Return to [[Lifters#Roller lifter|Roller lifter]]. | ||
===Lifter reassembly=== | ===Lifter reassembly=== | ||
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The lifter is the most precisely machined part in the engine. The plunger OD is matched to the lifter body ID, the close tolerances are required to give the correct amount of bleed down. For that reason, swapping out the plunger from one lifter to another will not always work, so plan on having to go through more than one lifter to find a good match to the old plunger OD. The MAIN thing is that the plunger not be too tight. Slightly loose will still perform OK, although there's a chance there could be some slight tapping at idle. But if the lifter and cam cannot for whatever reason be replaced as a set, this is STILL preferable to putting a new lifter on a used cam. | The lifter is the most precisely machined part in the engine. The plunger OD is matched to the lifter body ID, the close tolerances are required to give the correct amount of bleed down. For that reason, swapping out the plunger from one lifter to another will not always work, so plan on having to go through more than one lifter to find a good match to the old plunger OD. The MAIN thing is that the plunger not be too tight. Slightly loose will still perform OK, although there's a chance there could be some slight tapping at idle. But if the lifter and cam cannot for whatever reason be replaced as a set, this is STILL preferable to putting a new lifter on a used cam. | ||
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