Rust
From Crankshaft Coalition Wiki
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| − | + | [[Image:Rust at battery tray old versus new.JPG|thumb|300px|A rusted battery tray alongside a new one.]] | |
| + | ==What is rust and its causes?== | ||
| + | Rust is a kind of corrosion/burning -- a decay or breakdown of a material in reaction to its environment. Specifically, rust is an electrochemical corrosion that occurs in the presence of iron, oxygen, and water. Oxygen and water are available in the open air, and iron is the principal ingredient in steel. | ||
| − | + | For rust to occur it needs an anode (a piece of metal that gives up electrons), an electrolyte (a liquid that helps transport electrons), and a cathode (a piece of metal that accepts electrons). The more conductive the electrolyte, the quicker rust will occur. For this reason, humid air, salty air, or salty water will accelerate the formation of rust. | |
| − | + | Iron, with the chemical symbol of Fe, combines with oxygen, O, to form Fe<sub>2</sub>O<sub>3</sub>, the chemical formula for common reddish-brown rust. In its mineral form, Fe<sub>2</sub>O<sub>3</sub> is known as hematite. | |
| − | + | Rust is commonly referred to as ''iron oxide''. An oxide is a type of chemical compound that contains oxygen and other elements (like nitrous oxide, N<sub>2</sub>O). Oxides are typically formed when elements come into contact with air, through a process known as oxidation. Oxides are common, comprising most of the earth's crust. Elements can have multiple oxides. For example, there are sixteen known iron oxides. Thus, it's more accurate to say that rust is '''an''' iron oxide, rather than saying that rust '''is''' iron oxide. | |
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| + | Other metals besides iron oxidize, but their oxidation is not referred to as rust. For example, when aluminum oxidizes, it forms a protective, corrosion-resistant coating that is similar in appearance to un-oxidized aluminum. Zinc oxidizes similarly, which is why it is used for galvanizing. Only the oxidation of iron and steel is known as "rust". Why? Because iron oxide takes up more physical space than iron. It's bigger. So, when iron and air combine to make Fe<sub>2</sub>O<sub>3</sub>, it "puffs out", exposing even more of the original steel to the elements. | ||
| + | There is another iron oxide also referred to as "rust". It's Fe<sub>3</sub>O<sub>4</sub>, commonly called "black oxide", or, in mineral form, magnetite. This is the stuff that's left over after using certain products to "convert" rust. Black oxide takes up the same amount of space as iron, so it doesn't bulge it out, like reddish-brown rust, Fe<sub>2</sub>O<sub>3</sub>. Since black oxide itself doesn't offer much protection against corrosion, it's typically covered up (often with [[epoxy primer]]). Black oxide is an example of a conversion coating, a metal coating where part of the surface is converted into the coating itself, by a chemical or electrochemical process. | ||
| − | = | + | ===Why do older cars rust more than newer cars?=== |
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*Cars are more aggressively coated these days. Galvanizing (explain). | *Cars are more aggressively coated these days. Galvanizing (explain). | ||
*Steel used in cars is of a higher quality these days. | *Steel used in cars is of a higher quality these days. | ||
*More salt is used on roads these days. | *More salt is used on roads these days. | ||
| − | + | *Progressive evolution of engineered 'self rinsing' technology, such as strategically designed/placed drain holes to allow rain or wash water to purge body cavities of moisture absorbing rust producing sediments, moreover, robotic assembly methods to lessen the possibility of human error which may compromise the operation of such a design by 'less than precise' assembly. eg; the human worker adds an over-sized glob of body filler next to a fender well drain hole which inadvertently clogs it, causing the fender well to hold moisture laden debris instead. | |
| − | + | *Electrolysis due to some older cars (British) having 'positive ground' electrical systems -where the car's electrical system is basically all 'ground wires' instead. (eg: AMC Metropolitan assembled by Austin Motor Company in Longbridge, England -neither were they dipped in a rust preventing primer bath, then they were shipped in ocean salt air to be sold in USA) | |
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=Rust assessment= | =Rust assessment= | ||
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The "best" way to handle surface rust on an entire body is to have it professionally dipped, often at a cost of over $1000. This amount of money may not be available for a specific project, or it may be impractical to invest it. | The "best" way to handle surface rust on an entire body is to have it professionally dipped, often at a cost of over $1000. This amount of money may not be available for a specific project, or it may be impractical to invest it. | ||
| − | If you take time to properly | + | If you take time to properly assess your own rust situation, you can choose a well thought-out solution that's "best" for you. |
| − | ==The rusted part== | + | ==Areas to assess== |
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| + | ===The rusted part or piece=== | ||
*Can the part be removed? How large is it? Is it small enough to be soaked? | *Can the part be removed? How large is it? Is it small enough to be soaked? | ||
*What part is it? Is it a body panel? | *What part is it? Is it a body panel? | ||
| − | ==The rust itself== | + | ===The rust itself=== |
How bad is it? Exactly how to assess: | How bad is it? Exactly how to assess: | ||
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*Rust coming through seams? (research this) | *Rust coming through seams? (research this) | ||
| − | ==Climate and operating environment== | + | ===Climate and operating environment=== |
Do you live in a climate where water or salt will be present in the air? Is it a wintery climate where snow and/or salt will be present on the roads? Near the ocean? | Do you live in a climate where water or salt will be present in the air? Is it a wintery climate where snow and/or salt will be present on the roads? Near the ocean? | ||
What environment will the part be operating in? Interior of car? Undercarriage? Submerged in oil? | What environment will the part be operating in? Interior of car? Undercarriage? Submerged in oil? | ||
| − | ==Skills== | + | ===Skills=== |
Most of the skills required for removing rust are commonplace. However, certain jobs may require welding, or metal shaping. | Most of the skills required for removing rust are commonplace. However, certain jobs may require welding, or metal shaping. | ||
| − | ==Tools== | + | ===Tools=== |
| − | Besides basic hand tools, do you have | + | Besides basic hand tools, do you have an air compressor? Access to a DA sander? Angle grinder with wire wheel? Media blaster? Spot blaster? Blast cabinet? Spray gun? In some cases electric powered tools can be used instead of pneumatic tools. |
| − | ==Cost== | + | ===Cost=== |
| − | How much money do you have to put into the rust removal? What's the value of the project? | + | How much money do you have to put into the rust removal? What's the value of the project? Are you doing it "for money or for love"? If you plan on selling the project, can you expect a reasonable return on your investment? |
| − | ==Time== | + | ===Time=== |
How much time can you put into the project? Both work time, and wait time. Do you have the time necessary to eliminate surface rust from a body by hand? Do you have time to drop a part into a bucket, and wait a few weeks while it soaks? | How much time can you put into the project? Both work time, and wait time. Do you have the time necessary to eliminate surface rust from a body by hand? Do you have time to drop a part into a bucket, and wait a few weeks while it soaks? | ||
| − | ==Overall vehicle | + | ===Overall vehicle plan=== |
| − | What's your plan for the vehicle? What kind of abuse is it going to take, and how important are looks? Will it be a daily driver? Are you going to show it? | + | What's your overall plan for the vehicle with the rusted part or piece? What kind of abuse is it going to take, and how important are looks? Will it be a daily driver? Are you going to show it? |
=Rust removal, treatment, and prevention= | =Rust removal, treatment, and prevention= | ||
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Realistically, it's not very difficult for one company to chemically analyze another company's "secret formula", and produce an identical (or extremely similar) product. Many of the various rust removal and encapsulation products are, more or less, the same. A lot of it boils down to marketing, and the situation is only exacerbated by the fact that it's difficult to make a thorough assessment of a rust treatment product. Properly assessing a rust treatment solution would likely involve waiting several years, and then removing any outer layers of finish so that any existing underlying rust could be examined. | Realistically, it's not very difficult for one company to chemically analyze another company's "secret formula", and produce an identical (or extremely similar) product. Many of the various rust removal and encapsulation products are, more or less, the same. A lot of it boils down to marketing, and the situation is only exacerbated by the fact that it's difficult to make a thorough assessment of a rust treatment product. Properly assessing a rust treatment solution would likely involve waiting several years, and then removing any outer layers of finish so that any existing underlying rust could be examined. | ||
| − | The uneducated consumer will likely recoil at the abundance of "magic" formulas for treating rust, and revert to selecting | + | The uneducated consumer will likely recoil at the abundance of "magic" formulas for treating rust, and revert to selecting a safe, well-known, name-brand product line. This is a reasonable solution for many, but the name-brand rust treatment products tend to be rather expensive, especially in consideration of the fact that they are often comprised of inexpensive, common chemicals. |
Someone who has achieved good results with a certain combination of rust treatment products will often stay loyal to their method, without exploring other potential options that may indeed provide better results at a lower cost. | Someone who has achieved good results with a certain combination of rust treatment products will often stay loyal to their method, without exploring other potential options that may indeed provide better results at a lower cost. | ||
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===Miscellaneous (need to be sorted)=== | ===Miscellaneous (need to be sorted)=== | ||
*[http://www.tat-co.com/product.asp?ID=154 Body-Tec amber rustproofing]. 24 oz spray can. manufac: " Light viscosity allows material to flow into hard to reach areas easily. Ideal for core supports, sheet metal, frames etc" | *[http://www.tat-co.com/product.asp?ID=154 Body-Tec amber rustproofing]. 24 oz spray can. manufac: " Light viscosity allows material to flow into hard to reach areas easily. Ideal for core supports, sheet metal, frames etc" | ||
| + | *[http://www.d-rust-it.com D-Rust-It] -- available in concentrate. | ||
*Amsoil HD | *Amsoil HD | ||
*Slicksand | *Slicksand | ||
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*Duro Extend | *Duro Extend | ||
*Devoe Bar-Rust | *Devoe Bar-Rust | ||
| + | *[http://www.noxudolusa.com/rust_protection/Rust_Protection.html Noxudol] | ||
*Loctite Extend Rust Treatment | *Loctite Extend Rust Treatment | ||
| − | *Rustoleum (generally considered a poor choice for automotive applications. Good for cheap shop shelving, etc. | + | *Rustoleum (generally considered a poor choice for automotive applications. Good for cheap shop shelving, etc.) |
*[http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/specialized_maintenance_repair/body_interior_trim/auto_Permatex_Rust_Treatment.htm Permatex Rust Treatment] | *[http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/specialized_maintenance_repair/body_interior_trim/auto_Permatex_Rust_Treatment.htm Permatex Rust Treatment] | ||
*[http://ridrust.com/ RidRust] | *[http://ridrust.com/ RidRust] | ||
*[http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_0_53BC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_53BC_output=html&PC_7_0_53BC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_53BC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_53BC_node=GSQJ0YVJLSbe&PC_7_0_53BC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_53BC_command=CustomizePageHandler Rust Fighter] | *[http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_0_53BC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_53BC_output=html&PC_7_0_53BC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_53BC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_53BC_node=GSQJ0YVJLSbe&PC_7_0_53BC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_53BC_command=CustomizePageHandler Rust Fighter] | ||
*DuPont 5717S Metal Conditioner | *DuPont 5717S Metal Conditioner | ||
| + | *[http://www.rustx.com/ Rust-X] | ||
*[http://www.jasco-help.com/products/prod_mg.htm Jasco] | *[http://www.jasco-help.com/products/prod_mg.htm Jasco] | ||
*Prep-sol | *Prep-sol | ||
*[http://www.napasco.com/enrustreat.htm Mar-Hyde Rust Converter] | *[http://www.napasco.com/enrustreat.htm Mar-Hyde Rust Converter] | ||
*Rust N-M-E | *Rust N-M-E | ||
| + | *[http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products/products.cfm?categoryID=2182 Knorrostol] | ||
*[http://www.hammerite-automotive.com/ Hammerite] | *[http://www.hammerite-automotive.com/ Hammerite] | ||
*[http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/ Fluid Film] | *[http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/ Fluid Film] | ||
| − | *Waxoyl | + | *[http://www.waxoyl.com/en/produkte/120-4.htm Waxoyl] |
*[http://rustonic.com Rustonic] | *[http://rustonic.com Rustonic] | ||
*[http://duplicolor.com/products/rustfix.html Duplicolor Rust Fix] | *[http://duplicolor.com/products/rustfix.html Duplicolor Rust Fix] | ||
*[http://www.therustdoctor.com/ Rust Doctor] | *[http://www.therustdoctor.com/ Rust Doctor] | ||
*[http://bluelightning.zoovy.com/product/RR32 Blue Lightning] | *[http://bluelightning.zoovy.com/product/RR32 Blue Lightning] | ||
| − | *Picklex-20 | + | *[http://www.picklex20.com Picklex-20] |
*[http://rust007.com/knockout.htm Rust Knockout] | *[http://rust007.com/knockout.htm Rust Knockout] | ||
*[http://www.napasco.com/enrustreat.htm Enrust] | *[http://www.napasco.com/enrustreat.htm Enrust] | ||
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*Rust-Check | *Rust-Check | ||
*[http://www.evaporust.com/ Evapo-Rust Rust Remover] | *[http://www.evaporust.com/ Evapo-Rust Rust Remover] | ||
| + | *[http://www.safestrustremover.com/ Safest Rust Remover] | ||
*[http://www.corroless.com/ Corroless] | *[http://www.corroless.com/ Corroless] | ||
*[http://www.kleanstrip.com/special.htm Klean Strip Rust Converter] | *[http://www.kleanstrip.com/special.htm Klean Strip Rust Converter] | ||
| − | *[http://www.zerorust.com/ Zero Rust] -- [http://www.zerorust.com/tech.htm tech page], [http://www.zerorust.com/faq.htm faq]. Rust cleaning product is "prep-step", and clearcoat is called "crystal coat" | + | *[http://www.zerorust.com/ Zero Rust] -- [http://www.zerorust.com/tech.htm tech page], [http://www.zerorust.com/faq.htm faq]. Rust cleaning product is "prep-step", and clearcoat is called "crystal coat". |
*Rust Reformer | *Rust Reformer | ||
*[http://www.rustbullet.com Rust Bullet] | *[http://www.rustbullet.com Rust Bullet] | ||
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*DuPont Vari-Prime | *DuPont Vari-Prime | ||
*All-Metal | *All-Metal | ||
| + | *[http://tntrustremover.com/ TNT Rust Remover] | ||
===Rust removers and "converters"=== | ===Rust removers and "converters"=== | ||
| − | After using an acid to remove rust, flush the surface with water and baking soda (confirm or expand on this). | + | After using an acid to remove rust, flush the surface with water and baking soda '''(confirm or expand on this)'''. |
When converting/neutralizing rust: | When converting/neutralizing rust: | ||
| − | # Get everything off first that you can by sanding and wire brushing (wire brushing will get into the pits better) | + | # Get everything off first that you can by sanding and wire brushing (wire brushing will get into the pits better). |
| − | # A rust converter/neutralizer containing | + | # A rust converter/neutralizer containing tannic acid, phosphoric acid or another type of acid should be used |
| − | # Be careful of getting this stuff on your concrete floor as it will bubble and decompose it | + | # Be careful of getting this stuff on your concrete floor as it will bubble and decompose it. |
| − | # Follow the instructions on the bottle when you are done there should be a fine coating on the metal which will help prevent further rust from developing | + | # Follow the instructions on the bottle when you are done there should be a fine coating on the metal which will help prevent further rust from developing. |
| − | # This stuff is hard on paintbrushes (eats away the | + | # This stuff is hard on paintbrushes (eats away the bristles) and you must be very careful of your eyes. Also it will ruin paint, so, again, use caution. |
Lots of "rust neutralizers/metal etchers/floor etchers/metal conditioners" contain primarily phosphoric acid, which reacts with rust (iron oxide) to create iron phosphate, a hard black substance over which primer can be applied. | Lots of "rust neutralizers/metal etchers/floor etchers/metal conditioners" contain primarily phosphoric acid, which reacts with rust (iron oxide) to create iron phosphate, a hard black substance over which primer can be applied. | ||
| − | Don't use battery acid (sulfuric acid) for rust removal. | + | Don't use battery acid (sulfuric acid) or muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) for rust removal. Strong acids are dangerous, and there are many more effective chemicals. |
| − | + | *[http://www.ospho.com/ Ospho] Manufacturer description: When applied to rusted surfaces, it resists/retards rust in chemical change on drying to a tough, hard surface ready for priming. | |
| − | *[http://rustbeeter.com/ Rustbeeter] Merchant description: A byproduct of the sugar refining process. Probably similar to molasses. Parts must be submerged. Parts soak in a bucket for usually under a week, but as long as several weeks. Food product. Dry powder that gets mixed with water. Non-acidic or caustic. After use, parts are cleaned with | + | *[http://rustbeeter.com/ Rustbeeter] Merchant description: A byproduct of the sugar refining process. Probably similar to molasses. Parts must be submerged. Parts soak in a bucket for usually under a week, but as long as several weeks. Food product. Dry powder that gets mixed with water. Non-acidic or caustic. After use, parts are cleaned with dish soap and water, dried, and coated. |
*[http://www.tinmantech.com/html/must_for_rust_remover_inhibi.php Must for Rust] Merchant description: removes rust and corrosion, non-caustic to skin, needs no neutralizing, primer goes right over it. $28/gallon. | *[http://www.tinmantech.com/html/must_for_rust_remover_inhibi.php Must for Rust] Merchant description: removes rust and corrosion, non-caustic to skin, needs no neutralizing, primer goes right over it. $28/gallon. | ||
| − | *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=15974&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=374&iProductID=15974 Eastwood Rust Converter] Merchant description: 2-part mix, adheres to bare or rusty steel, and can be | + | *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=15974&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=374&iProductID=15974 Eastwood Rust Converter] Merchant description: 2-part mix, adheres to bare or rusty steel, and can be top coated with most coatings. 1 gallon each of the 2-part mix is $125. |
*[http://www.rust-cure.com/ Rust Cure] Merchant description: phosphoric acid-based. leaves a thin film that bonds well with most primers and paints. for pricing, need to see this page: http://rustcure.bizland.com/xwheretobuy.html . | *[http://www.rust-cure.com/ Rust Cure] Merchant description: phosphoric acid-based. leaves a thin film that bonds well with most primers and paints. for pricing, need to see this page: http://rustcure.bizland.com/xwheretobuy.html . | ||
*[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1124&itemType=PRODUCT Oxisolv Rust Remover] Merchant description: dissolves rust and leaves behind a zinc phosphate coating. Spray/brush/dip. Non-toxic, non-flammable, and re-usable. Must be cleaned off before priming. | *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1124&itemType=PRODUCT Oxisolv Rust Remover] Merchant description: dissolves rust and leaves behind a zinc phosphate coating. Spray/brush/dip. Non-toxic, non-flammable, and re-usable. Must be cleaned off before priming. | ||
*[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=11122&itemType=PRODUCT Eastwood Rust Dissolver] Merchant description: acid free rust remover, leaves surface ready to paint, plate, or powder coat. Suitable for engine parts, and harmless to copper, brass, aluminum, solder, lead, plastic, rubber, seals, wood or vinyl. Surface must remain wet for product to work. $40/gallon. | *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=11122&itemType=PRODUCT Eastwood Rust Dissolver] Merchant description: acid free rust remover, leaves surface ready to paint, plate, or powder coat. Suitable for engine parts, and harmless to copper, brass, aluminum, solder, lead, plastic, rubber, seals, wood or vinyl. Surface must remain wet for product to work. $40/gallon. | ||
*[http://sem.ws/product.php?product_id=164 Rust-Mort] Merchant's description: "Converts rust to a black or grayish, hard, insoluble, protective coating". | *[http://sem.ws/product.php?product_id=164 Rust-Mort] Merchant's description: "Converts rust to a black or grayish, hard, insoluble, protective coating". | ||
| − | *[http://sem.ws/product.php?product_id=206 SEM Rust-Seal] | + | *[http://sem.ws/product.php?product_id=206 SEM Rust-Seal] Manufacturer description: "Transforms rust leaving a tough, permanent, black protective coating. RUST-SEAL can be left exposed or may be top coated with enamels, lacquers or urethanes." |
| − | (Make sure that none of the above count as "encapsulators". Also, what about the converters that leave a "protective film" on the metal. They say that they don't need neutralization, and they don't need to be washed off. Is this as good as cleaning to bare metal, and then hitting with epoxy primer?) | + | ''(Make sure that none of the above count as "encapsulators". Also, what about the converters that leave a "protective film" on the metal. They say that they don't need neutralization, and they don't need to be washed off. Is this as good as cleaning to bare metal, and then hitting with epoxy primer?)'' |
*Vinegar | *Vinegar | ||
*Muriatic acid (not for use on body panels, as it causes [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_embrittlement hydrogen embrittlement]) | *Muriatic acid (not for use on body panels, as it causes [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_embrittlement hydrogen embrittlement]) | ||
*Toilet cleaner (?) | *Toilet cleaner (?) | ||
| − | *Cola ( | + | *Cola (yes, contains phosphoric acid) |
| − | *Phosphoric acid | + | *Phosphoric acid: leaves behind a coating of iron phosphate |
*Naval jelly (gelled phosphoric acid) | *Naval jelly (gelled phosphoric acid) | ||
*Mag wheel cleaner (?) | *Mag wheel cleaner (?) | ||
| − | *Molasses (a 1:10 solution of molasses to water can be used for soaking rusty parts) | + | *Molasses (a 1:10 solution of molasses to water can be used for soaking rusty parts, although it loses its strength after several months) |
*Powdered household cleaning products such as Comet or Ajax | *Powdered household cleaning products such as Comet or Ajax | ||
===Rust encapsulators=== | ===Rust encapsulators=== | ||
| + | ''Main article: [[Rust encapsulators]]'' | ||
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Rust encapsulators work by sealing off existing rust, denying it the oxygen it needs to grow. | Rust encapsulators work by sealing off existing rust, denying it the oxygen it needs to grow. | ||
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#Will use rust encapsulation products, but not on body panels. | #Will use rust encapsulation products, but not on body panels. | ||
#Will use rust encapsulation products on a variety of parts, including body panels. | #Will use rust encapsulation products on a variety of parts, including body panels. | ||
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===Rust preventive oils and waxes=== | ===Rust preventive oils and waxes=== | ||
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*[http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_0_53BC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_53BC_output=html&PC_7_0_53BC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_53BC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_53BC_node=GS3H3CPLMLbe&PC_7_0_53BC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_53BC_command=CustomizePageHandler 3M Rust Fighter application wand] | *[http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_0_53BC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_53BC_output=html&PC_7_0_53BC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_53BC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_53BC_node=GS3H3CPLMLbe&PC_7_0_53BC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_53BC_command=CustomizePageHandler 3M Rust Fighter application wand] | ||
*[http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_0_53BC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_53BC_output=html&PC_7_0_53BC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_53BC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_53BC_node=GSQJ0YVJLSbe&PC_7_0_53BC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_53BC_command=CustomizePageHandler 3M Rust Fighter] | *[http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_0_53BC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_53BC_output=html&PC_7_0_53BC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_53BC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_53BC_node=GSQJ0YVJLSbe&PC_7_0_53BC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_53BC_command=CustomizePageHandler 3M Rust Fighter] | ||
| + | *[http://enjenjoesproducts.com/cg020001.html Brownpolymer rust inhibitor long term] -- Merchant description: displaces water on metal parts to prevent rust. environmentally Safe,It's a Cleaner,It's a Polish,It's a Lube, It's a Grease,It's a Protective Coating,Multi Use Polymer Substance | ||
| + | *You can make your own basic rust protection coating from 1 part anhydrous lanolin (available from a pharmacy), and 5 parts paint thinner. | ||
| + | *For machine tools, this is recommended: http://www.clclubricants.com/waylubes.htm . | ||
| + | *Use something that releases rust-inhibiting vapor. Rust-blox vapor tabs, vpi paper, permatex in-charge corrosion inhibitor. | ||
===Epoxy primer=== | ===Epoxy primer=== | ||
| − | Epoxy primer | + | ''Main article: [[Epoxy primer]].'' |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| + | Epoxy primer/sealer is a non-porous finish that is typically recommended as the first basecoat over bare steel. Various epoxy primers can also be applied over [[Fiberglassing|fiberglass]], plastic, or the black iron phosphate coating that remains after "converting" rust. | ||
| + | Epoxy primer is a two-part mix, with a hardener that has to be added before spraying. Body fillers and high-build primers can be used on top of epoxy primer. | ||
===Seam sealers=== | ===Seam sealers=== | ||
Seam sealers are used to seal roof channels, drip rails, trunk seams, door seams, and other body seams. They can be either one or two-part, and are typically applied over primer, sometimes with the use of a specially-designed caulking gun or spray gun. | Seam sealers are used to seal roof channels, drip rails, trunk seams, door seams, and other body seams. They can be either one or two-part, and are typically applied over primer, sometimes with the use of a specially-designed caulking gun or spray gun. | ||
| − | Lord Corporation makes several seam sealers: [http://www.lord.com/Home/ProductsServices/Adhesives/FusorAutomotiveAftermarketProducts/Products/SealersFoams/tabid/3402/Default.aspx Lord Corporation sealers and foams]. | + | *Lord Corporation makes several seam sealers: [http://www.lord.com/Home/ProductsServices/Adhesives/FusorAutomotiveAftermarketProducts/Products/SealersFoams/tabid/3402/Default.aspx Lord Corporation sealers and foams]. |
| − | + | *3M manufactures several different types of seam sealers: [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/New-Products/?PC_7_0_5FJC_command=CustomizePageHandler&PC_7_0_5FJC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_5FJC_output=html&PC_7_0_5FJC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_5FJC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_5FJC_node=GSWMS8NB1Nbe&PC_7_0_5FJC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv 3M seam sealers]. | |
| − | 3M manufactures several different types of seam sealers: [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/New-Products/?PC_7_0_5FJC_command=CustomizePageHandler&PC_7_0_5FJC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_5FJC_output=html&PC_7_0_5FJC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_5FJC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_5FJC_node=GSWMS8NB1Nbe&PC_7_0_5FJC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv 3M seam sealers]. | + | *SEM Products makes a [http://sem.ws/Catalog.asp?prod=96 seam sealer], a [http://sem.ws/Catalog.asp?prod=271 beige seam sealer], a [http://sem.ws/Catalog.asp?prod=269 high build self-leveling seam sealer], and a [http://sem.ws/Catalog.asp?prod=98 self-leveling seam sealer]. |
| − | + | *Transtar Autobody Technologies makes a variety of seam sealers: [http://www.tat-co.com/productCategory.asp?ID=6#sub9 Transtar seam sealers]. | |
| − | SEM Products makes a [http://sem.ws/ | + | *International Epoxies and Sealers: [http://www.internationalepoxies.com/sealers.htm International Epoxies and Sealers body sealers]. |
| − | + | *Valvoline makes their [http://www.pliogripbyvalvoline.com/sealers_foam.html Pliogrip line of seam sealers]. | |
| − | Transtar Autobody Technologies makes a variety of seam sealers: [http://www.tat-co.com/productCategory.asp?ID=6#sub9 Transtar seam sealers]. | + | *Evercoat has the [http://www.evercoat.com/productCategory.aspx?cat=41 Maxim line of seam sealers]. |
| − | + | *McKanica makes a seam sealer in an aerosol can: [http://www.google.com/search?rls=en&q=mckanica+seam+sealer&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8 McKanica seam sealer]. | |
| − | International Epoxies and Sealers: [http://www.internationalepoxies.com/ | + | |
| − | + | ||
| − | Valvoline makes their [http://www.pliogripbyvalvoline.com/sealers_foam.html Pliogrip line of seam sealers]. | + | |
| − | + | ====See also==== | |
| + | [http://autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7467 "Basics of Basics": Seam Sealers (by Brian Martin)] | ||
===Metal washes, wax and grease removers=== | ===Metal washes, wax and grease removers=== | ||
*[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=258&itemType=PRODUCT&path=1%2C2%2C458%2C467%2C473&KickerID=39&KICKER Eastwood Metal Wash]. Merchant's description: dry compound that is mixed with water. removes grease and oils from bare metal, and leaves behind corrosion inhibitors that prevent flash rusting and promote paint adhesion. $11 for enough dry mix to make 7 quarts. | *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=258&itemType=PRODUCT&path=1%2C2%2C458%2C467%2C473&KickerID=39&KICKER Eastwood Metal Wash]. Merchant's description: dry compound that is mixed with water. removes grease and oils from bare metal, and leaves behind corrosion inhibitors that prevent flash rusting and promote paint adhesion. $11 for enough dry mix to make 7 quarts. | ||
| − | *[http://www.aerospace.henkel.com/index.cfm?ID=178 Metalprep 79] | + | *[http://www.aerospace.henkel.com/index.cfm?ID=178 Metalprep 79] Manufacturer's description: phosphoric acid-based cleaner. leaves surface chemically clean and corrosion free. thoroughly rinse with water when done. brush/spray/dip |
| + | *Is DuPont's "Quick-Prep" equivalent to Metalprep? | ||
| − | Read this thread thoroughly: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/what-else-wax-grease-remover-besides-mineral-spirits-51150.html | + | Read this thread thoroughly: [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/what-else-wax-grease-remover-besides-mineral-spirits-51150.html What to use to remove wax, etc.] |
The following are not to be used as metal cleaners: lacquer thinner, acetone, reducers. Use the product within the recommendations of your product system. Cleaners typically vary as to strength, and time they take to evaporate. | The following are not to be used as metal cleaners: lacquer thinner, acetone, reducers. Use the product within the recommendations of your product system. Cleaners typically vary as to strength, and time they take to evaporate. | ||
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*Sand paper. 36 grit to 220 grit. | *Sand paper. 36 grit to 220 grit. | ||
*Wire wheel on drill. When the wire bristles start to bend one way, reverse the drill and work in the other direction for a while. | *Wire wheel on drill. When the wire bristles start to bend one way, reverse the drill and work in the other direction for a while. | ||
| − | *Wire wheel on grinder, or, these discs are considered to be superior to wire wheels: [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_0_4UVL_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_4UVL_output=html&PC_7_0_4UVL_gvel=H55CPWS904gl&PC_7_0_4UVL_vroot=81LC4NNTD4ge&PC_7_0_4UVL_node=RCM96XTX07be&PC_7_0_4UVL_theme=en_us_manufacturingindustry_portal&PC_7_0_4UVL_command=CustomizePageHandler 3M clean & strip disc], or [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_0_4S4T_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_4S4T_output=html&PC_7_0_4S4T_gvel=RJ5GMFSMV0gl&PC_7_0_4S4T_vroot=GS4JK4Y166ge&PC_7_0_4S4T_node=GSGKXWRKYVbe&PC_7_0_4S4T_theme=en_US_marineproducts_portal&PC_7_0_4S4T_command=AbcPageHandler 3M bristle disc], or [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_0_4S4T_command=AbcPageHandler&PC_7_0_4S4T_theme=en_US_marineproducts_portal&PC_7_0_4S4T_output=html&PC_7_0_4S4T_vroot=GS4JK4Y166ge&PC_7_0_4S4T_gvel=RJ5GMFSMV0gl&PC_7_0_4S4T_node=GSVDY2CZYDbe&PC_7_0_4S4T_root=GST1T4S9TCgv Surface Conditioning Disc] | + | *Wire wheel on grinder, or, these discs are considered to be superior to wire wheels: [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_0_4UVL_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_4UVL_output=html&PC_7_0_4UVL_gvel=H55CPWS904gl&PC_7_0_4UVL_vroot=81LC4NNTD4ge&PC_7_0_4UVL_node=RCM96XTX07be&PC_7_0_4UVL_theme=en_us_manufacturingindustry_portal&PC_7_0_4UVL_command=CustomizePageHandler 3M clean & strip disc], or [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_0_4S4T_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_4S4T_output=html&PC_7_0_4S4T_gvel=RJ5GMFSMV0gl&PC_7_0_4S4T_vroot=GS4JK4Y166ge&PC_7_0_4S4T_node=GSGKXWRKYVbe&PC_7_0_4S4T_theme=en_US_marineproducts_portal&PC_7_0_4S4T_command=AbcPageHandler 3M bristle disc], or [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_0_4S4T_command=AbcPageHandler&PC_7_0_4S4T_theme=en_US_marineproducts_portal&PC_7_0_4S4T_output=html&PC_7_0_4S4T_vroot=GS4JK4Y166ge&PC_7_0_4S4T_gvel=RJ5GMFSMV0gl&PC_7_0_4S4T_node=GSVDY2CZYDbe&PC_7_0_4S4T_root=GST1T4S9TCgv Surface Conditioning Disc]. |
*Scotch-brite pads | *Scotch-brite pads | ||
*Steel toothbrush | *Steel toothbrush | ||
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*Steel wool | *Steel wool | ||
| − | Tips | + | ===Tips=== |
| − | *When using a wire wheel, don't sit in one spot for too long -- | + | *When using a wire wheel, don't sit in one spot for too long -- the localized heat from friction can warp sheet metal. |
==Methods== | ==Methods== | ||
| Line 296: | Line 262: | ||
#Sand with 180 grit. | #Sand with 180 grit. | ||
#Use wax and grease remover, and then spray with epoxy primer. | #Use wax and grease remover, and then spray with epoxy primer. | ||
| − | #From there, you can apply body filler (the epoxy may need to be scuffed, read instructions) | + | #From there, you can apply body filler (the epoxy may need to be scuffed, read instructions). |
#When the filler work is done, scuff with a red scotch-brite pad. | #When the filler work is done, scuff with a red scotch-brite pad. | ||
#Then, apply two more coats of epoxy, followed by high-build primer. | #Then, apply two more coats of epoxy, followed by high-build primer. | ||
| Line 311: | Line 277: | ||
====Getting the entire vehicle body dipped==== | ====Getting the entire vehicle body dipped==== | ||
| − | Need more info on Redi-Strip. What chemical do they use? What's the cost? Can a hobbyist acquire and use the same chemical that Redi-Strip uses? When the body is returned to you, is it truly completely clean, or does it have to be cleaned to get all of the chemical removed from nooks and crannies, etc.? | + | ''(Need more info on Redi-Strip. What chemical do they use? What's the cost? Can a hobbyist acquire and use the same chemical that Redi-Strip uses? When the body is returned to you, is it truly completely clean, or does it have to be cleaned to get all of the chemical removed from nooks and crannies, etc.?)'' |
====Quick fix for exposed areas (dents, etc.)==== | ====Quick fix for exposed areas (dents, etc.)==== | ||
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====Removing pitted rust in body panels==== | ====Removing pitted rust in body panels==== | ||
| − | + | See: [[pitted rust]]. | |
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| − | + | ||
====Fixing rust holes in body panels==== | ====Fixing rust holes in body panels==== | ||
| − | + | See: [[pitted rust]]. | |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
====Storing body panels==== | ====Storing body panels==== | ||
| − | Use epoxy primer ( | + | Use epoxy primer (aka "epoxy primer/sealer"), it won't allow rust. Not the same as regular primer. |
Wet-sand down to 400 grit, wash/dry, grind down rust to bare metal, apply body filler where needed, blow off, clean with prep-sol or similar cleaner, tape it up, and prime with epoxy primer. | Wet-sand down to 400 grit, wash/dry, grind down rust to bare metal, apply body filler where needed, blow off, clean with prep-sol or similar cleaner, tape it up, and prime with epoxy primer. | ||
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====Rusted window channels==== | ====Rusted window channels==== | ||
| − | Difficult to fabricate, need more info on this. | + | ''(Difficult to fabricate, need more info on this.)'' |
===Vinyl tops=== | ===Vinyl tops=== | ||
Rust is common in vinyl tops. The vinyl gets porous after a few years, and lets in moisture. | Rust is common in vinyl tops. The vinyl gets porous after a few years, and lets in moisture. | ||
| − | How to prevent? | + | ''(How to prevent?)'' |
| + | |||
| + | Vaseline ,push it in between the moldings around the top and wipe off excess.Spray a heavy oil around Landau /opera windows let sit and wipe off excess any little tears should also have a drop of silicone pushed in them to avoid moisture. | ||
===Leaf spring rust=== | ===Leaf spring rust=== | ||
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===Cleaning light surface rust off crankshaft=== | ===Cleaning light surface rust off crankshaft=== | ||
| − | |||
| − | + | Have a machine shop polish the journals. | |
| − | + | May require a regrind to the next correct bearing size prior to polishing depending on tolerances. | |
| − | + | Using a decent regular flow of CRC 5.56 or a PTFE type spray and an M3 grey scotchy (then try green scotchbrite if need) rubbed in direction of crank travel, localised to effected area. Mask off area with masking tape to prevent scratching unaffected areas if necessary. | |
| − | LP3 as rust inhibitor on crankshafts? | + | Rust is tough, and large areas vigourously rubbed (mechanically or otherwise) may cause damage to the finish of the journal. Initial contact needs to be with clean CRC rinsed rag, keep the journal area clean and use a light touch, buffing in one direction until the initial rust colour no longer shows. |
| + | |||
| + | If sand paper is to be employed, try starting with 2000 grit (no less than 1200 grit), change paper regularly, and keep the strokes light. You are only removing the outer scale, you are not resurfacing the journal just rubbing out rust. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Phosphoric acid localised can help in any pits. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Acids on hardened steels can cause embrittlement so dont leave it on long, only enough to blacken the rust. Afterwards switching to a microfibre rag with a product like Autosol, Blue Magic or even Brasso, you can polish out any minor scratches on the journal. Steel wool usually isn't recommended as it can scratch the journal finish, and it creates fine particles that must be throuoghly cleaned from the crank. If rust is more than 0.005" deep get it resurfaced. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Also- | ||
| + | |||
| + | * Very fine steel wool or scotchbrite pad, and light oil. Rub around the journals in the direction of rotation, not across. | ||
| + | * Cut 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper into strips the width of the crank journals. Wrap it around the journal, and secure it with tape. Then, make a strap from leather, about one-half the width of the sandpaper strips. Use the strap on the paper in a shoeshine motion. Finish off with some light oil on the sandpaper. Do a few strokes first, then clean the paper, because the rust will clog the sandpaper. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ''(LP3 as rust inhibitor on crankshafts?)'' | ||
===Electrolysis=== | ===Electrolysis=== | ||
| − | + | Advantages: self-limiting (can't remove too much), safe (low electrical current), won't harm good metal, not an acid (less dangerous, and no risk of hydrogen embrittlement) | |
| + | |||
| + | Need: a plastic tub, iron electrode, water and washing soda (sodium carbonate), and a batter charger. About 1 tablespoon of soda per gallon of water. Can't find washing soda, then lye will work. Wear eye protection and protect skin too. Connect the electrode to the positive battery terminal. Connect the rusted object to the negative terminal. Submerge the object. Make sure the contact is good (may need to clean off some of the rust from the rusty part). Typically takes a few hours, but can take up to overnight. Rinse or scrub with brush to remove final rust debris. May need to re-treat. Oil, wax, or prime soon after. Surface of rusted metals is black after treatment. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Be creative to clean oddly-shaped objects: | ||
| + | |||
| + | *plastic PVC pipes | ||
| + | *large 2x4 wood boxes lined with plastic sheeting | ||
| + | *suspend an electrode in a cavity | ||
| + | *use a sponge soaked in the electrolyte solution, with a backing electrode, for objects that can't be submerged. | ||
| + | |||
| + | The powder used is a mild alkali. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ====Resources==== | ||
| + | *[[Electrolytic rust removal]] Crankshaft Coalition wiki article | ||
| + | *http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm | ||
| + | *http://hotrodders.com/forum/rust-removal-lower-arms-other-suspension-parts-108384.html | ||
| + | *http://www.davidbradley.net/ERR.html | ||
| + | *http://antique-engines.com/trailer-electrolysis.htm | ||
| + | *http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/electrolyticrust.html | ||
| + | *http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/other-articles/467718-rust-removal-electrolysis.html | ||
| + | *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/electrolytic-rust-removal-revisited-163423.html | ||
===How to remove rust from chrome=== | ===How to remove rust from chrome=== | ||
| − | + | *Mag wheel polish, or [http://www.turtlewax.com/main.taf?p=2,1,4,12 Turtle Wax Chrome Polish]. | |
| + | *Fine steel wool, scotch-brite pads, crumpled-up pieces of aluminum foil. | ||
===Preventing engine rust=== | ===Preventing engine rust=== | ||
Engine storage spray, or wipe down with [http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/ Marvel Mystery Oil]. | Engine storage spray, or wipe down with [http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/ Marvel Mystery Oil]. | ||
| − | Cylinder walls with flash rust: | + | Cylinder walls with flash rust: Marvel Mystery Oil, steel wool, etc. Pitted rusting will necessitate a rebuild. |
===How to de-rust gas tanks=== | ===How to de-rust gas tanks=== | ||
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Flush with CLR, Kool Klean (can't find). Manufacturers of CLR say that it shouldn't be used in a radiator: http://www.jelmar.com/CLRbasic.asp . | Flush with CLR, Kool Klean (can't find). Manufacturers of CLR say that it shouldn't be used in a radiator: http://www.jelmar.com/CLRbasic.asp . | ||
| − | When building an engine, to prevent rust: when done washing it and blowing it dry, oil it down, and store it in a plastic bag -- sealed (confirm this). | + | When building an engine, to prevent rust: when done washing it and blowing it dry, oil it down, and store it in a plastic bag -- sealed ''(confirm this)''. |
==="Oiling" your car=== | ==="Oiling" your car=== | ||
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===Cleaning hand tools=== | ===Cleaning hand tools=== | ||
Tumble in a cement mixer with oil and sand. Or, soak in a bucket with parts cleaner or paint thinner. | Tumble in a cement mixer with oil and sand. Or, soak in a bucket with parts cleaner or paint thinner. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===Rust prevention on tools=== | ||
| + | Keep tools in a wooden toolbox. Also, use a shop dehumidifier. Avoid dust on your tools, as it can attract moisture, and thus, rust. | ||
===Electronic rust inhibition=== | ===Electronic rust inhibition=== | ||
| Line 448: | Line 433: | ||
*[http://www.ruststopnorthamerica.com/electronic-rustproofing-rust-proofing.htm Rust Stop North America] | *[http://www.ruststopnorthamerica.com/electronic-rustproofing-rust-proofing.htm Rust Stop North America] | ||
| − | This is known as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection cathodic protection] | + | ''(This is known as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection cathodic protection]. Research this. And: [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sacrificial_anode sacrificial anode] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_anode galvanic anode].)'' |
===Frame rust=== | ===Frame rust=== | ||
| Line 471: | Line 456: | ||
===Media blasting rust=== | ===Media blasting rust=== | ||
| − | *Sand is not recommended for media blasting panels. It acts like little hammers, warping panels with compressive forces (analagous to hail). | + | See: [[Media blasting]]. |
| + | |||
| + | *Sand is not recommended for media blasting panels. It acts like little hammers, warping panels with compressive forces (analagous to hail). It can be done, but extreme caution must be used. Sand also dulls as it is used, which reduces its cutting efficiency with each reuse. | ||
*Use softer media (list examples): | *Use softer media (list examples): | ||
**55 grit silica-based media | **55 grit silica-based media | ||
| Line 482: | Line 469: | ||
*One option is to use chemical paint stripper, then use a sandblaster to lightly "dust" the remaining rust. | *One option is to use chemical paint stripper, then use a sandblaster to lightly "dust" the remaining rust. | ||
*Media blasting can remove good metal from body panels too. Also, used media can have metal particles left in the media. | *Media blasting can remove good metal from body panels too. Also, used media can have metal particles left in the media. | ||
| − | *Soda blasting can remove light rust, and won't warp panels. However, when soda blasting body panels, the resultant film can negatively affect finish adhesion. | + | *Soda blasting can remove light rust, and won't warp panels. However, when soda blasting body panels, the resultant film can negatively affect finish adhesion. For more details, see: [[Soda blasting]]. |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
=Miscellaneous= | =Miscellaneous= | ||
| Line 490: | Line 475: | ||
==Flooded vehicles== | ==Flooded vehicles== | ||
Flooded vehicles can be very difficult to handle, as there can be rust in any and all places. They are best avoided, unless it's the car that you really want. | Flooded vehicles can be very difficult to handle, as there can be rust in any and all places. They are best avoided, unless it's the car that you really want. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ==What's galvanization?== | ||
| + | ''(needs confirmation)'' | ||
| + | |||
| + | "Galvanizing" typically refers to hot-dip galvanizing, a process by which iron or steel is coated with a thin layer of zinc, by dipping it in a molten bath of zinc. Galvanized steel can be welded. It's been used for more than 150 years. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Zinc oxidizes when exposed to air, forming zinc oxide, which then reacts with water molecules in the air to form zinc hydroxide, which then reacts with carbon dioxide in the air to form zinc carbonate. Zinc carbonate (the final "galvanizing" layer), is a thin but very tough protective layer. It also acts as a "sacrificial anode". It will corrode before the steel it is protecting. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Many modern automotive body panels are galvanized. | ||
| + | |||
| + | You can buy cold galvanizing spray. ''(list examples here)'' | ||
| + | |||
| + | ==Hydrogen embrittlement== | ||
| + | All acids contribute hydrogen to metal. This causes hydrogen embrittlement, which weakens the metal. Untrue: you can "bake" the hydrogen out at 400 degrees F, after exposing a metal to acid. | ||
==Fiberglass resin patches== | ==Fiberglass resin patches== | ||
| − | One technique that has been recommended is to grind/clean the rust, tape the underside of the panel to be patched, and then fill the holes with fiberglass resin, then paint and undercoat. This trick is not really a good idea -- when the body flexes, there will be cracks in the fiberglass pieces. Metal also expands at different rates than fiberglass, causing cracks to form, allowing more rust to form in these cracks. | + | One technique that has been recommended is to grind/clean the rust, tape the underside of the panel to be patched, and then fill the holes with fiberglass resin, then paint and undercoat. This trick is not really a good idea -- when the body flexes, there will be cracks in the fiberglass pieces. Metal also expands at different rates than [[Fiberglassing|fiberglass]], causing cracks to form, allowing more rust to form in these cracks. |
| + | |||
| + | Using POR-15 (a moisture-cured urethane) and fiberglass cloth will produce a low-cost repair that will bond and flex with the metal. In fact, POR-15 sells a $20 kit to do this very thing. While this method does fill the holes and provides a rust-resistant repair, it does not restore any mechanical strength to the metal like an actual metal patch panel would. | ||
==Do metal etches leave coating?== | ==Do metal etches leave coating?== | ||
| Line 510: | Line 511: | ||
==What about riveting in patch panels?== | ==What about riveting in patch panels?== | ||
| − | Very low-end solution, like fiberglass patching metal. Panel adhesives are a better choice when you can't weld. | + | Very low-end solution, like [[fiberglass]] patching metal. Panel adhesives are a better choice when you can't weld. |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
=Resource dump= | =Resource dump= | ||
'''Drop links in here if they're relevant to this article. They'll be reviewed, incorporated, and referenced.''' | '''Drop links in here if they're relevant to this article. They'll be reviewed, incorporated, and referenced.''' | ||
| − | + | *[http://www.carcraft.com/howto/24544/ CarCraft article on using POR-15 and fiberglass mat for hole repair] | |
| − | + | *[http://lasertronics.com/ Lasertronics.com] | |
| − | + | *[http://www.theruststore.com/rust_info.aspx articles at theruststore.com] | |
| − | *[http://www. | + | |
*http://www.corrosionsource.com/index.htm | *http://www.corrosionsource.com/index.htm | ||
*[http://www.fertanamerica.com/ Fertan rust remover] | *[http://www.fertanamerica.com/ Fertan rust remover] | ||
| Line 540: | Line 538: | ||
*http://www.jasco-help.com/products/prod_mg.htm | *http://www.jasco-help.com/products/prod_mg.htm | ||
*[http://www.restorick.com/tech/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=37 zero rust application tips] | *[http://www.restorick.com/tech/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=37 zero rust application tips] | ||
| + | *[http://www.clausenautobody.com/proddetail.php?prod=rust-defender Rust defender product] | ||
| + | *[http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/master-chemical-nomorerust-pitted-surfaces-154053.html Hotrodders Bulletin Board rust discussion] | ||
=Related resources= | =Related resources= | ||
| Line 549: | Line 549: | ||
=References= | =References= | ||
| + | *[http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/rust/rust.html MetalWeb Rust Primer] | ||
| + | *[http://www.bhi.co.uk/hints/rust.htm Electrolytic Rust removal FAQ] | ||
| + | *http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanization | ||
| + | *http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hematite | ||
| + | *http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetite | ||
| + | *http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conversion_coating | ||
| + | *http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_oxide | ||
*[http://science.howstuffworks.com/question445.htm How does rust work?] HowStuffWorks.com | *[http://science.howstuffworks.com/question445.htm How does rust work?] HowStuffWorks.com | ||
*[http://www.a2zautoforums.com/showthread.php?t=700 Quarter panel rust fix], ''A2Z Automotive Forums'', March 26, 2002. | *[http://www.a2zautoforums.com/showthread.php?t=700 Quarter panel rust fix], ''A2Z Automotive Forums'', March 26, 2002. | ||
| Line 642: | Line 649: | ||
*[http://hotrodders.com/forum/stopping-rust-inside-103320.html Stopping rust from the inside], ''Hotrodders Bulletin Board'', November 26, 2006. | *[http://hotrodders.com/forum/stopping-rust-inside-103320.html Stopping rust from the inside], ''Hotrodders Bulletin Board'', November 26, 2006. | ||
*[http://hotrodders.com/forum/rust-treatment-repair-109939.html Rust treatment and repair], ''Hotrodders Bulletin Board'', February 25, 2007. | *[http://hotrodders.com/forum/rust-treatment-repair-109939.html Rust treatment and repair], ''Hotrodders Bulletin Board'', February 25, 2007. | ||
| + | |||
| + | [[Category:Body and exterior]] | ||
| + | [[Category:Good articles]] | ||
| + | [[Category:Garage and shop]] | ||
| + | [[Category:General hotrodding]] | ||
| + | {{youcanedit}} | ||
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