How do turn signals work?
(→Front signals work, but rear signals are dead (or vice-versa)) |
(→Dead system) |
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#If it reads infinite, it is open. Replace the fuse and test the signal system again. If it reads 000, it is good, put it back in the buss box. | #If it reads infinite, it is open. Replace the fuse and test the signal system again. If it reads 000, it is good, put it back in the buss box. | ||
#Next, set your meter to DCV, V X 50 or auto range, turn the key on, and remove the flasher. Place the black probe on ground, the the other into either of the two flasher terminals. One will read infinite, the other should read 12 volts. If you have that, power is good to the flash unit. | #Next, set your meter to DCV, V X 50 or auto range, turn the key on, and remove the flasher. Place the black probe on ground, the the other into either of the two flasher terminals. One will read infinite, the other should read 12 volts. If you have that, power is good to the flash unit. | ||
| − | #Next, set your meter to ohms, RX1 scale and measure | + | #Next, set your meter to ohms, RX1 scale and measure across the pins or wires. Repair or replace as required. |
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#If you don't have either a cut condition, or a burned socket, and still dead, check any lead front, or rear of the selected side. It should have 12 volts, either steady or intermittent on it. If not, your trouble is in the column harness between the plug and the switch. Or, the switch itself is bad. Repair or replace as required. | #If you don't have either a cut condition, or a burned socket, and still dead, check any lead front, or rear of the selected side. It should have 12 volts, either steady or intermittent on it. If not, your trouble is in the column harness between the plug and the switch. Or, the switch itself is bad. Repair or replace as required. | ||
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