First paint job
From Crankshaft Coalition Wiki
(→Building a temporary paint booth) |
(→Metallic paint: adding my single stage metallic technique) |
||
| Line 15: | Line 15: | ||
==General tips, tricks, and techniques== | ==General tips, tricks, and techniques== | ||
| − | See [[Body and exterior tips]] | + | *See [[Body and exterior tips]] |
| + | *See [[Health and safety in the shop or garage]] | ||
| − | *A 12" aluminum ruler works great for ratios example: 4:1:1 = 4" :1" :1". Stir your paint with it and wipe it off so you can reuse it later, you can find them everywhere for $1 | + | *A 12" aluminum ruler works great for ratios example: 4:1:1 = 4" :1" :1". Stir your paint with it and wipe it off so you can reuse it later, you can find them everywhere for $1. |
| − | *Save your old reducer gallon cans and quart size | + | *Save your old reducer gallon cans and quart size hardener cans. With a pair of tin snips, cut the tops off (at the bead), and use them for mixing paint with a ruler -- but run some tape around the edge so you don't cut yourself. |
*When opening a can of paint, punch a few holes in the trough where the lid sits with a hammer and nail. That way, excess paint will drain out of the trough and into the can, rather than splattering when placing the lid back on the can. | *When opening a can of paint, punch a few holes in the trough where the lid sits with a hammer and nail. That way, excess paint will drain out of the trough and into the can, rather than splattering when placing the lid back on the can. | ||
| Line 25: | Line 26: | ||
*Buy a set of inexpensive spatulas to use as scrapers for paint cans. | *Buy a set of inexpensive spatulas to use as scrapers for paint cans. | ||
| − | *To preserve hardener, displace the air in the can with inert gas, such as the shield gas (CO2/argon, etc.) from a MIG welder | + | *To preserve hardener, displace the air in the can with inert gas, such as the shield gas (CO2/argon, etc.) from a MIG welder. Or, use a commercial inert gas finish preservative such as [http://www.bloxygen.com/ Bloxygen]. |
| − | + | {{Warning}}DO NOT use oxygen or acetylene from a torch! | |
| + | |||
*For easier pouring, affix a 2-inch piece of masking tape to the edge of a large gallon of paint. Pour the paint over the piece of tape. | *For easier pouring, affix a 2-inch piece of masking tape to the edge of a large gallon of paint. Pour the paint over the piece of tape. | ||
| Line 40: | Line 42: | ||
*Leftover paint with hardener can be placed in the refrigerator. The cold temperature will slow down the hardener. You can even throw you spray gun in there if you find you need some supplies, and you are in the middle of painting. | *Leftover paint with hardener can be placed in the refrigerator. The cold temperature will slow down the hardener. You can even throw you spray gun in there if you find you need some supplies, and you are in the middle of painting. | ||
| + | |||
| + | *It pays to completely blow off the whole car inside and out with compressed air before you begin painting. Wear eye protection and a respirator. | ||
==Temperature== | ==Temperature== | ||
| Line 48: | Line 52: | ||
==Building a temporary paint booth== | ==Building a temporary paint booth== | ||
See: [[Building a paint booth]]. | See: [[Building a paint booth]]. | ||
| − | |||
| − | |||
| − | |||
| − | |||
| − | Something that will help keep dust and bugs from coming into your garage is to buy a furnace filter the same size as the window (or build a frame for the filters to go over your door) that you have open. This will collect the dirt and bugs before they become part of your paint job. | + | {{Warning}}Before painting, remove all sources of ignition, including turning off gas water heaters and any pilot lights. |
| − | If there are strict rules in your area, something that will help is to place a filter before your fan so that it filters the air as it is leaving your shop. | + | |
| + | Painting in a garage lessens the chance of bugs or dust ending up lodged in your paint while it is still in its curing stage. One way to turn your garage into a temporary paint booth is to buy large plastic drop cloths from you local hardware or home improvement store. They are a cheap and effective way to protect your tool boxes and "toys" from overspray. | ||
| + | |||
| + | A good rule of thumb for blower sizing is to try to change the air TWICE every minute. Hence, if you have a 10'x10'x10' paint booth (1000 cubic feet) you want a 2000 cfm blower (2000 cubic feet per minute). Open up your garage door about 1/8 to 1/4 up. This will help with ventilation, since solvents sink to the floor. Place a fan near the opening, facing outside, to help even more with airflow. Opening any side doors and roof vents and placing additional fans will help ventilation. Box fans may work, but at a minimum you should ensure that these fans are the brushless type to reduce the amount of sparking the exhaust stream will be exposed to to lessen the chance of an ignition. Remember, the fewer sparks the paint vapor "sees" the less likely you are to cause an explosion. | ||
| + | |||
| + | An even better solution to box fans would be to use squirrel cage blowers, commonly found in HVAC and exhaust vent systems. Try to get the type where the motor is outside of the squirrel cage to reduce heating the exhaust stream. Place the squirrel cage blower motor outside of your "paint booth" and run ducting into (or out of) your paint booth. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Something that will help keep dust and bugs from coming into your garage is to buy a furnace filter the same size as the window (or build a frame for the filters to go over your door) that you have open. This will collect the dirt and bugs before they become part of your paint job. If there are strict rules in your area, something that will help is to place a filter before your fan so that it filters the air as it is leaving your shop. | ||
==Basic mixing techniques== | ==Basic mixing techniques== | ||
| Line 84: | Line 91: | ||
A respirator or fresh air system should be worn at all times when you are working with paints. Even when mixing your paint and getting ready. | A respirator or fresh air system should be worn at all times when you are working with paints. Even when mixing your paint and getting ready. | ||
| + | |||
| + | More at [[Health and safety in the shop or garage]]. | ||
==Spray gun tech== | ==Spray gun tech== | ||
| − | With | + | With a spray gun, you get what you pay for! |
| − | HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) is the way to go when buying a spray gun although LVLP (Low Volume | + | HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) is the way to go when buying a spray gun although LVLP (Low Volume Low Pressure) can work acceptably with the right paint. The prices have come down to reasonable levels, and the wasted paint by overspray (not to mention the mess) makes a siphon-feed unit a poor choice for the home hobby sprayer. |
| − | Remember that high-solid primers like high-build type | + | Remember that high-solid primers like high-build type 2K urethanes require a larger (1.7mm) tip and setup internally than a regular paint gun. Three gun sets are available for as little as $100 that include a primer gun with the larger tip, a paint/clear gun, and a 1.0mm tipped touch-up gun. Cutting (wet sanding) and buffing make up for a lot of shortcomings in inexpensive HVLP guns. So determining which is more valuable, your money or your time, is a determining factor in choosing a paint gun. A cheaper gun will require more time spent cutting and buffing than a top-of-the-line gun that lays paint out more evenly, but at an added price of several hundred dollars. A budget gun can be had for under $30, whereas a SATA 3000 digital runs around $650. You decide which is more important. A decent middle of the road option is a Finex 1000, 2000, 3000 series by Sharpe. The 1000 model is a small touch up gun, the 2000 a panel sized gun and the 3000 big enough for a complete vehicle. As of the year 2020, they run between $150-250 depending on size and where you buy. They have a pretty wide selection of tips/cones for spraying various viscosity coatings. Of course there are other brand name of spray guns and most have an economy line. One important tip! Any activated primer or paint WILL solidify in your gun if you don't clean it out within a certain amount of time. |
==Choosing the right type of paint== | ==Choosing the right type of paint== | ||
| − | + | If unsure, you can ask other car builders that have done their own paint work, or if you know a painter, ask them. Best of all is to consult with the paint salesperson when you go to buy paint. They are a wealth of information. Utilize them. That's what they are there for. | |
| − | + | ===Single stage:=== | |
| + | One stage, no clear coat. For people looking for a budget paint job. Not as glossy or durable as a 2 stage, although it easily oxidize or fade, it can easily be buffed out. | ||
| − | + | *Synthetic enamel: dries naturally and leaves a glossy finish. Two parts- paint and reducer. | |
| − | + | *Acrylic enamel: just like synthetic, but with a hardener or catalyst. Cures within hours and a little more durable than synthetic enamel. | |
| − | + | *Acrylic urethane: the most durable single stage paint. It has more UV and chip resistant over the enamel paint. | |
| − | + | ===Two stage:=== | |
| + | *Base coat/clear coat :modern paint,the most durable of all. Gives the best gloss and longevity. But once the clear coat is gone you will need new paint job. | ||
| − | + | ===Three stage:=== | |
| − | + | Base coat, then pearl, candy or metallic, then a clear coat. (A candy coat has quite a bit of clear mixed in so that when you spray it, you don't completely cover the base color but instead, tint it) | |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
==Two main types of all automotive paint colors== | ==Two main types of all automotive paint colors== | ||
| Line 116: | Line 125: | ||
===Metallic paint=== | ===Metallic paint=== | ||
| − | Spraying metallic is a little different then spraying a solid color; they | + | Spraying metallic is a little different then spraying a solid color; they can easily mottle (have blotches of dark and light areas) and/or "tiger stripe" if sprayed incorrectly. The key to spraying metallic paint is to [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-30-a-74674.html move the "dry spot" around]. For example, spray one coat one direction, then the next coat in the direction 90 degrees to the first coat. Overlapping the coats up to 75% is another key to good metallic finishes. Yet another way is to do two wet coats, followed by a mist coat at just the right time. The mist coat will melt slowly into the wet coats yet leave an even metallic pattern. Most of this applies to a single stage metallic paint job. The base coat/clear coat systems are much more forgiving with metallics. |
| + | |||
| + | Remember, anytime that the paint moves the metallic does as well, so if they run you will get the metallic all in one spot. With metallic, always use the suggested reducers and mix the entire batch to be sprayed at the same time. DO NOT play mad scientist/chemist. ''Follow the instructions to the letter''. The engineers at the paint companies spend millions on R&D, so they are already sure of the results you will get by mixing the product any given way. Do not re-invent the wheel. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ==Tips== | ||
| + | *Always follow the manufacturers' recommendations for every product that you use. This usually means thoroughly reading the associated tech sheets, which are typically available for download from the manufacturer's website. For further detail, see [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/rules-rules-rules-editorial-165210.html ''Rules, Rules, Rules'', an editorial post by MARTINSR on the Hotrodders Bulletin Board]. | ||
| + | *Never soda blast unless you know how to completely remove the residue, and fully understand the complexities associated with soda blasting. See: [[Soda blasting]]. | ||
| + | *A common problem with a first time painter is Orange Peel. To remove orange peel or minor cosmetic blemishes it is first recommended that you have your paint covered with a clear coat not only to protect it, but to enable you to have a mirror like finish. Wet-Sanding with 1500, and then 2000 grit to keep a very smooth finish. With a buffer and compound you can go as high as 4000 grit because of the way the liquid compound and buffer work. | ||
| + | *After you Buff, you have the option of getting a swirl remover (liquid) and waffle foam pad. These 2 items together will help you get rid of the buff swirls, and leave your paint in brand new condition as if it just came off of the showroom floor. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===Forums=== | ||
| + | *[http://autobody101.com/forums/ Autobody101.com forums] | ||
| + | *[http://www.autobodyonline.com/discussion/ Autobodyonline.com forums] | ||
| + | *[http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php Autobodystore forums] | ||
| + | *[http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/body-exterior Hotrodders.com body and exterior forum] | ||
| + | *[http://spi.forumup.org SPI Users forum] | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===Videos=== | ||
| + | *[http://commerce03.i2net.com/able55new/stores/10/Huntington-Beach-Bodyworks-56-Metal-to-Paint-P14876C596.aspx Huntington Beach Bodyworks 56' Metal to Paint] | ||
| + | |||
| + | ==References== | ||
| + | *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/metal-prep-epoxy-primer-no-so-fast-164937.html | ||
| + | *http://spi.forumup.org/about2379-0-asc-0-spi.html (lots of tips here, needs to be incorporated into article) | ||
| + | |||
| + | ==Resources== | ||
| + | *[[Building a paint booth]] | ||
| + | *[[Cheapo paint job]] | ||
| + | *[[Body and exterior tips]] | ||
| + | *[[Health and safety in the shop or garage]] | ||
| + | |||
[[Category:Body and exterior]] | [[Category:Body and exterior]] | ||
Your Privacy Choices