First paint job
From Crankshaft Coalition Wiki
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HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) is the way to go when buying a spray gun although LVLP (Low Volume Low Pressure) can work acceptably with the right paint. The prices have come down to reasonable levels, and the wasted paint by overspray (not to mention the mess) makes a siphon-feed unit a poor choice for the home hobby sprayer. | HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) is the way to go when buying a spray gun although LVLP (Low Volume Low Pressure) can work acceptably with the right paint. The prices have come down to reasonable levels, and the wasted paint by overspray (not to mention the mess) makes a siphon-feed unit a poor choice for the home hobby sprayer. | ||
| − | Remember that high-solid primers like high-build type 2K urethanes require a larger (1.7mm) tip and setup internally than a regular paint gun. Three gun sets are available for as little as $100 that include a primer gun with the larger tip, a paint/clear gun, and a 1.0mm tipped touch-up gun. Cutting (wet sanding) and buffing make up for a lot of shortcomings in inexpensive HVLP guns. So determining which is more valuable, your money or your time, is a determining factor in choosing a paint gun. A cheaper gun will require more time spent cutting and buffing than a top-of-the-line gun that lays paint out more evenly, but at an added price of several hundred dollars. A budget gun can be had for under $30, whereas a SATA 3000 digital runs around $650. You decide which is more important. | + | Remember that high-solid primers like high-build type 2K urethanes require a larger (1.7mm) tip and setup internally than a regular paint gun. Three gun sets are available for as little as $100 that include a primer gun with the larger tip, a paint/clear gun, and a 1.0mm tipped touch-up gun. Cutting (wet sanding) and buffing make up for a lot of shortcomings in inexpensive HVLP guns. So determining which is more valuable, your money or your time, is a determining factor in choosing a paint gun. A cheaper gun will require more time spent cutting and buffing than a top-of-the-line gun that lays paint out more evenly, but at an added price of several hundred dollars. A budget gun can be had for under $30, whereas a SATA 3000 digital runs around $650. You decide which is more important. A decent middle of the road option is a Finex 1000, 2000, 3000 series by Sharpe. The 1000 model is a small touch up gun, the 2000 a panel sized gun and the 3000 big enough for a complete vehicle. As of the year 2020, they run between $150-250 depending on size and where you buy. They have a pretty wide selection of tips/cones for spraying various viscosity coatings. Of course there are other brand name of spray guns and most have an economy line. One important tip! Any activated primer or paint WILL solidify in your gun if you don't clean it out within a certain amount of time. |
==Choosing the right type of paint== | ==Choosing the right type of paint== | ||
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===Three stage:=== | ===Three stage:=== | ||
| − | Base coat, then pearl or metallic, then a clear coat. | + | Base coat, then pearl, candy or metallic, then a clear coat. (A candy coat has quite a bit of clear mixed in so that when you spray it, you don't completely cover the base color but instead, tint it) |
==Two main types of all automotive paint colors== | ==Two main types of all automotive paint colors== | ||
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===Metallic paint=== | ===Metallic paint=== | ||
| − | Spraying metallic is a little different then spraying a solid color; they can easily mottle (have blotches of dark and light areas) and/or "tiger stripe" if sprayed incorrectly. The key to spraying metallic paint is to [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-30-a-74674.html move the "dry spot" around]. For example, spray one coat one direction, then the next coat in the direction 90 degrees to the first coat. Overlapping the coats up to 75% is another key to good metallic finishes. | + | Spraying metallic is a little different then spraying a solid color; they can easily mottle (have blotches of dark and light areas) and/or "tiger stripe" if sprayed incorrectly. The key to spraying metallic paint is to [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-30-a-74674.html move the "dry spot" around]. For example, spray one coat one direction, then the next coat in the direction 90 degrees to the first coat. Overlapping the coats up to 75% is another key to good metallic finishes. Yet another way is to do two wet coats, followed by a mist coat at just the right time. The mist coat will melt slowly into the wet coats yet leave an even metallic pattern. Most of this applies to a single stage metallic paint job. The base coat/clear coat systems are much more forgiving with metallics. |
Remember, anytime that the paint moves the metallic does as well, so if they run you will get the metallic all in one spot. With metallic, always use the suggested reducers and mix the entire batch to be sprayed at the same time. DO NOT play mad scientist/chemist. ''Follow the instructions to the letter''. The engineers at the paint companies spend millions on R&D, so they are already sure of the results you will get by mixing the product any given way. Do not re-invent the wheel. | Remember, anytime that the paint moves the metallic does as well, so if they run you will get the metallic all in one spot. With metallic, always use the suggested reducers and mix the entire batch to be sprayed at the same time. DO NOT play mad scientist/chemist. ''Follow the instructions to the letter''. The engineers at the paint companies spend millions on R&D, so they are already sure of the results you will get by mixing the product any given way. Do not re-invent the wheel. | ||
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| + | ==Tips== | ||
| + | *Always follow the manufacturers' recommendations for every product that you use. This usually means thoroughly reading the associated tech sheets, which are typically available for download from the manufacturer's website. For further detail, see [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/rules-rules-rules-editorial-165210.html ''Rules, Rules, Rules'', an editorial post by MARTINSR on the Hotrodders Bulletin Board]. | ||
| + | *Never soda blast unless you know how to completely remove the residue, and fully understand the complexities associated with soda blasting. See: [[Soda blasting]]. | ||
| + | *A common problem with a first time painter is Orange Peel. To remove orange peel or minor cosmetic blemishes it is first recommended that you have your paint covered with a clear coat not only to protect it, but to enable you to have a mirror like finish. Wet-Sanding with 1500, and then 2000 grit to keep a very smooth finish. With a buffer and compound you can go as high as 4000 grit because of the way the liquid compound and buffer work. | ||
| + | *After you Buff, you have the option of getting a swirl remover (liquid) and waffle foam pad. These 2 items together will help you get rid of the buff swirls, and leave your paint in brand new condition as if it just came off of the showroom floor. | ||
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| + | ===Forums=== | ||
| + | *[http://autobody101.com/forums/ Autobody101.com forums] | ||
| + | *[http://www.autobodyonline.com/discussion/ Autobodyonline.com forums] | ||
| + | *[http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php Autobodystore forums] | ||
| + | *[http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/body-exterior Hotrodders.com body and exterior forum] | ||
| + | *[http://spi.forumup.org SPI Users forum] | ||
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| + | ===Videos=== | ||
| + | *[http://commerce03.i2net.com/able55new/stores/10/Huntington-Beach-Bodyworks-56-Metal-to-Paint-P14876C596.aspx Huntington Beach Bodyworks 56' Metal to Paint] | ||
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| + | ==References== | ||
| + | *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/metal-prep-epoxy-primer-no-so-fast-164937.html | ||
| + | *http://spi.forumup.org/about2379-0-asc-0-spi.html (lots of tips here, needs to be incorporated into article) | ||
==Resources== | ==Resources== | ||
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