Determining top dead center

From Crankshaft Coalition Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search
(Undo revision 1052457 by Cobalt327 (talk))
(Rebuilt dampers)
 
Line 1: Line 1:
 
{{youcanedit}}
 
{{youcanedit}}
 
==Before you begin==
 
==Before you begin==
One of the first things that you will need is a kl wheel, this will tell you EXACTLY where you are at when you turn the engine over. You can take this picture of the degree wheel and have it blown up to a reasonable working size by your local photo copy center. A couple of ways to use it is to have it laminated or glue it to a piece of sheet metal or aluminum.  
+
One of the first things that you will need is a degree wheel, this will tell you EXACTLY where you are at when you turn the engine over. You can take this picture of the degree wheel and have it blown up to a reasonable working size by your local photo copy center. A couple of ways to use it is to have it laminated or glue it to a piece of sheet metal or aluminum.  
  
 
[[File:Degreewheel1.jpg]]
 
[[File:Degreewheel1.jpg]]
Line 29: Line 29:
  
 
==Rebuilt dampers==
 
==Rebuilt dampers==
One noted place to buy a rebuilt damper/balancer is [http://www.damperdoctor.com/ Damper Doctor]. They disassemble stock, OEM production dampers, clock the hub to the inertia ring and reassemble the unit with new elastomeric material pressed together under tremendous hydraulic pressure. An 8" damper for a 350 Chevy can be had for a mere $32.95 (ca. 2012), deal of the century!!!!
+
One noted place to buy a rebuilt damper/balancer is [http://www.damperdoctor.com/ Damper Doctor]. They disassemble stock, OEM production dampers, clock the hub to the inertia ring and reassemble the unit with new elastomeric material pressed together under tremendous hydraulic pressure. An 8" damper for a 350 Chevy can be had for a mere $32.95 (ca. 2012).
  
 
The option is a used damper/balancer that may be clocked worse than the one you have or an aftermarket damper/balancer that will cost more money and may not have been correctly machined on the inner hub diameter. Some of these offshore (Chinese) dampers being sold are bored either oversize or undersize for the production crank snout diameter. The damper/balancer hub MUST BE A SNUG PRESS-FIT on the crank in order to properly transfer harmonics from the crankshaft to the damper/balancer hub and on to the inertia ring, where harmonics are dissipated.  
 
The option is a used damper/balancer that may be clocked worse than the one you have or an aftermarket damper/balancer that will cost more money and may not have been correctly machined on the inner hub diameter. Some of these offshore (Chinese) dampers being sold are bored either oversize or undersize for the production crank snout diameter. The damper/balancer hub MUST BE A SNUG PRESS-FIT on the crank in order to properly transfer harmonics from the crankshaft to the damper/balancer hub and on to the inertia ring, where harmonics are dissipated.  

Latest revision as of 23:31, 23 May 2022

Personal tools
Namespaces
Variants
Actions
Navigation
Categories
Toolbox