How to remove an ignition key lock
From Crankshaft Coalition Wiki
(→Chrysler) |
|||
| Line 1: | Line 1: | ||
| − | + | ||
| + | ==Overview== | ||
If you lose your keys or buy a car with no keys you can hire a locksmith or change the lock yourself. | If you lose your keys or buy a car with no keys you can hire a locksmith or change the lock yourself. | ||
==General Motors== | ==General Motors== | ||
| − | GM started keeping records of key codes back in 1935. GM dealers have access to GM codes on file for the LAST SEVEN YEARS only! Some key codes can be found on the broadcast sheets | + | GM started keeping records of key codes back in 1935. GM dealers have access to GM codes on file for the LAST SEVEN YEARS only! Some key codes can be found on the broadcast sheets delivered with the car or found inside the car's rear seat area or over the fuel tank. You can just go to your dealer with your proof of ownership of that particular vehicle' and they can make you a key or go to your friendly neighborhood locksmith to have him cut a key to code or make a key if none is available. |
===Remove center=== | ===Remove center=== | ||
| − | [[Image:Steeringwheelcenter.jpg]] | + | [[Image:Steeringwheelcenter.jpg|border|300px]] |
===Remove nut=== | ===Remove nut=== | ||
| − | [[Image:Steeringsocket.jpg]] | + | [[Image:Steeringsocket.jpg|border|300px]] |
===Pull wheel=== | ===Pull wheel=== | ||
| − | [[Image:Pullwheel.jpg]] | + | [[Image:Pullwheel.jpg|border|300px]] |
Remove the horn cap, attached to the cap will be a wire that goes to a plastic fitting that is removed by depressing it and giving it a quarter turn CCW to remove it. Remove the 7/8" nut from the steering shaft. Use a puller to remove the steering wheel. They usually come right off but occasionally you run into a stubborn one. A light tap with a hammer on the end of the puller will jar those loose. | Remove the horn cap, attached to the cap will be a wire that goes to a plastic fitting that is removed by depressing it and giving it a quarter turn CCW to remove it. Remove the 7/8" nut from the steering shaft. Use a puller to remove the steering wheel. They usually come right off but occasionally you run into a stubborn one. A light tap with a hammer on the end of the puller will jar those loose. | ||
| − | [[Image:Wheelpulled.jpg]] | + | [[Image:Wheelpulled.jpg|border|300px]] |
===Remove column lock=== | ===Remove column lock=== | ||
| − | [[Image:Removecolumnlock.jpg]] | + | [[Image:Removecolumnlock.jpg|border|300px]] |
This part requires using a special tool that pushes in on the column lock plate so you can remove the wire clip. Although this can be done without the tool, the tool makes it considerably easier. | This part requires using a special tool that pushes in on the column lock plate so you can remove the wire clip. Although this can be done without the tool, the tool makes it considerably easier. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Some of the shafts had a metric thread on the shaft so remember to use the proper attachment screw in piece when installing the lock plate clip remover. | ||
Removing the little spring wire clip is always the most aggravating part of changing the lock. | Removing the little spring wire clip is always the most aggravating part of changing the lock. | ||
| − | [[Image:Columnlockoff.jpg]] | + | [[Image:Columnlockoff.jpg|border|300px]] |
===Remove emergency flasher switch=== | ===Remove emergency flasher switch=== | ||
| − | [[Image:Emergflash.jpg]] | + | [[Image:Emergflash.jpg|border|300px]] |
| Line 36: | Line 39: | ||
===Loosen turn signal=== | ===Loosen turn signal=== | ||
| − | [[Image:turnsignal.jpg]] | + | [[Image:turnsignal.jpg|border|300px]] |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
Remove the three Phillips screws that hold the switch. You may have to turn the switch to get at the bottom one. | Remove the three Phillips screws that hold the switch. You may have to turn the switch to get at the bottom one. | ||
| Line 46: | Line 47: | ||
===Pull lockset=== | ===Pull lockset=== | ||
| − | [[Image:Buzzswitch.jpg]] | + | [[Image:Buzzswitch.jpg|border|300px]] |
Remove the buzzer switch and spring holder. | Remove the buzzer switch and spring holder. | ||
| − | + | [[Image:Removesetscrew.jpg|border|300px]] | |
| − | [[Image:Removesetscrew.jpg]] | + | |
Remove the torx or Phillips set screw. (Older GM columns have a push clip that must be depressed to remove the ignition.) | Remove the torx or Phillips set screw. (Older GM columns have a push clip that must be depressed to remove the ignition.) | ||
| − | [[Image:Removelock.jpg]] | + | [[Image:Removelock.jpg|border|300px]] |
| − | [[Image:Removelock2.jpg]] | + | [[Image:Removelock2.jpg|border|300px]] |
Remove the lock. The ignition switch is located at the base of the column and connects to the lock mechanism by way of a rod. | Remove the lock. The ignition switch is located at the base of the column and connects to the lock mechanism by way of a rod. | ||
| Line 71: | Line 71: | ||
==Ford== | ==Ford== | ||
| − | Ford | + | Most older Ford ignition locking systems require you to have a working key in order for you to remove the ignition lock. If a working key is available, turn the ignition lock into the 'ON' position and look for a poke hole in the lock housing to push in a pin retainer, then pull out the cylinder to remove the ignition. |
| − | + | Newer systems require the use of professional services from a locksmith. Ten cut locks only contain 6 cuts of a total of ten cuts, whereas the door cylinder will contain the other four cuts to get a fully working key. | |
==Others== | ==Others== | ||
| Line 79: | Line 79: | ||
[[Category:Electrical]] | [[Category:Electrical]] | ||
[[Category:Interior]] | [[Category:Interior]] | ||
| + | [[Category:Ignition]] | ||
[[Category:Good articles]] | [[Category:Good articles]] | ||
Your Privacy Choices