How to solder electrical connections
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| − | + | ==Overview== | |
| + | Learning to solder is a skill well worth the effort to master. It doesn't require a lot of equipment, supplies or technique, but there are a few things to be aware of. The following text will give some tips and info on soldering electrical wire and components. | ||
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| − | + | ===Soldering guns, irons, and torches=== | |
| − | + | [[File:Weller butane soldering iron.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Butane soldering iron]]A temperature controlled soldering station is good to have for bench work, but they can be bulky for use under a dashboard, for example. A simple, high output soldering iron can be used, or a good quality soldering gun is also a good choice for working in cramped quarters. The soldering gun is designed to rapidly heat up when activated, then to cool off so it won't be a hazard to the used while in a cramped area. Many good guns have a light that's activated w/the trigger that also heats the tip. These guns have a variety of tips shapes and sizes available, as do most good soldering irons. Irons having a 1/4" tip diameter is a good choice. A chisel-shaped tip is a good choice for most electrical work, about 1/8" to 3/16" wide. Weller is a well-known brand for soldering appliances. Hexacon is another quality tool line for soldering equipment. | |
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| − | + | For work where there is no electricity to use an electric soldering gun or iron, you can use a butane torch. There are models available that heat ta tip with the flame rather than applying an open flame to the solder joint. | |
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| + | ===Solder=== | ||
| + | A supply of 63/37 (tin/lead) or 60/40 solder. 63/37 is a eutectic mixture having a low melting point (183° C or 361.4° F). Solder diameter varies, 24 gauge (0.0201") is sometimes used for harness making, and it works well for circuit board assembly also, a good mid-sized gauge. Generally staying at or below about 1/16" diameter is fine for automotive electrical work. Rosin core solder is OK but doesn't mean added flux won't be needed. | ||
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| + | In recent years, lead solder has been replaced by "lead free" solder. This is made from a combination of different elements such as Sn, Ag, and Cu (tin, silver, and copper). Generally the lead free solders have a higher melting point than tin/lead solder. Lead free solder uses a flux made for it, as well. | ||
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| + | ===Flux=== | ||
| + | Rosin flux is used exclusively for electrical work when using tin/lead soft solder. Rosin flux isn't water soluble, so it has to be removed w/hydrocarbons like acetone, lacquer thinner, xylol, etc. Avoid breathing or contacting these compounds. With the advent of lead free solders, water soluble fluxes have been introduced. | ||
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| + | Acid core solder or flux should never be used when doing any type of electrical soldering, the acid will cause corrosion and failure of the connection over time. | ||
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| + | ===Other tools and supplies=== | ||
| + | *Hemostats | ||
| + | *Small brass flux brush (about the size of a toothbrush) | ||
| + | *Dental pick | ||
| + | *a small flashlight or drop cord for working under a dashboard for instance | ||
| + | *De-soldering tools (some are spring loaded syringe-like devices, some are a simple suction bulb) that will suck the solder from a joint when the joint is sufficiently heated. Desoldering braid is another way to remove solder. It works by wicking the solder into the braid, sometimes made from tinned copper. | ||
| + | * A quality set of automatic strippers with a depth gauge. | ||
| + | * A quality tie wrap gun, various tie wraps. | ||
| + | * A selection of various terminals and connectors in the 3 popular sizes. | ||
| + | <br><br> | ||
| + | <gallery perrow=3 widths=200px caption="Tools/Supplies"> | ||
| + | File:SOLDERING EQUIPMENT 001.jpg|Selection of soldering equipment | ||
| + | File:Rosin flux 002.jpg|Rosin flux suitable for electrical work | ||
| + | File:TERMINAL AND WIRE STRIPPER TOOLS 002.jpg|Wire cutters, crimpers, strippers | ||
| + | File:Desoldering pump.jpg|Desoldering pump | ||
| + | File:Butane soldering torch.jpg|Butane soldering torch | ||
| + | File:Velleman solder tip cleaner.jpg| Soldering tip cleaner | ||
| + | </gallery> | ||
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| + | ==Some helpful tips== | ||
| + | Typically you want to use as little solder as possible, because with large quantities of solder | ||
| + | it ends up being a heat sink. | ||
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| + | For automotive electrical work, you want a HOT iron. A good iron will have a capacity of at least 35 watts. If you can afford a temperature controlled iron buy it, you will be glad you did and you will never regret it. | ||
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| + | It's always good practice to tin the wire or connector before soldering. This is nothing more than applying a small amount of flux to the wire to be soldered, then heating it and applying a small amount of solder. This will make the joint stronger and easier to make. Be aware that solder will wick up a wire and make it stiff. Avoid this, the tip of the wire is all that needs to be tinned. | ||
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| + | Keep the soldering iron tip clean and tinned. Put it away tinned so it's ready for use the next time it's needed. A damp sponge can be used to occasionally wipe the tip during work, this removes any build up of solder or burned on flux. Another tip is to use a sal ammoniac block if the tip is especially bad. Rub each face of the well heated soldering iron(not red hot) on the sal ammoniac tinning block along with a little solder applied to the tip of the iron. | ||
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